NARRATIVE OF AiN EXPEDITION 



TO EXPLORE 



THE RIVER ZAIRE, 



f! 



NARRATIVE 

OF AN EXPEDITION 



TO EXPLORE 

THE RIVER ZAIRE, 

USUALLY CALLED THE CONGO, 

IN SOUTH AFRICA, 

IN 1816, 

UNDER THE DIRECTION OF 

CAPTAIN J. K. TUCKEY, R. N. 

TO WHICH IS ADDED, 

c 

THE JOURNAL OF PROFESSOR SMITH; 

AND 

J^OME GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTRY AND IT«5 
LNHABITANTS. 

PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF 

THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY 



J^EJr-YORK: 

PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM B. GILLFY, 
NO. 92 BROADWAY. 
Priiiled by William A. Mei coin, 



WAP,. 



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:2T645" 



T ^* 



.^^-f 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Introduction , 1 

CHAPTER I. 

Passage to, and Notices on, the Island of St Jago 85 

CHAPTER II. 

Passage from Porto Praya to the Mouth of the Zaire 109 

CHAPTER III. 

Passage up the River to the Place where the Ship was leifl, and 
from whence the Party proceeded in the Double-boats 131 

CHAPTER IV. 

Profe.ess up the River as far as Yellala, or the Cataract.... 176 

CHAPTER V. 

Progress from the Cataract, or Cooloo, by Land chiefly, to 

Inga 206 

CHAPTER VI. 

Excursion from Tnga. and from thence to the Termination 

of the Journey 221 

PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

SECTION I. 

Notices from England to our departure from St. Jago 249 



CONTENTS. 

SECTION II. 

Page 

From St. Jago to the Mouth of the River Zaire 271 

SECTION III. 

Progress up the River as far as Cooloo. opposite the Ca- 
taract 289 

SECTION VI. 

From Cooloo to the Extremity of the Journey 333 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ; containing A CONCISE 
VIEW of the Country along the Line of the Zaire, — 
Its Natural History and Inhabitants, — collected from 
the preceding Narratives, and from the Observations 
of the Naturalists and Officers employed on the Expe- 
dition 347 

APPENDIX. 

A Vocabulary of the Malemba and Embomma Languages.. 395 



NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION 

TO EXPLORE 

THE RIVER ZAIRE, 

USUALLY CALLED THE CONGO, 
IN SOUTH AFRICA. 



INTRODUCTION. 



X HE reig-a of George III. will be referred to by 
future historians as a period not less distinguished 
by the brilliant exploits of our countrymen in arms, 
than by the steady and progressive march of the 
sciences and the arts. Occupied, as a very con- 
siderable portion of that period has been, by a 
war, longer in its duration, more ferocious in its 
character, and more extensive in its ravages, than 
had ever before afflicted Europe, at least in mo- 
dern times, the advancement of physical and geo- 
graphical knowledge, though necessarily retarded 
in its progress, suffered but little interruption, if 
we except one memorable instance where a French 
General brutally seized the person and papers of 
a British naval officer, on his return from a voyage 
of discovery, and with unparalleled meanness, in- 
justice, and inhumanity, detained the former nearly 
seven years in- captivity, and purloined a part of 
the latter. With this exception, no war was waged 
against science ; the impulse which had been given 
to geographical discovery still maintained its di- 
rection, and was never lost sight of, even by hos- 
tile fleets ; witness, among other instances, the in- 
teresting and admirable survey of the coast of 
Asia Minor by Captain Beaufort, while command- 
ing a frigate attached to the Mediterranean squa- 
dron, the account of which has recently been laid 
before the public. "Indeed," as Dr. Douglas has 
justly observed, " it would argue a most culpable 

B 



y INTRODUCTION. 

want of rational curiosity, if we did not use our 
l^est endeavours to arrive at a full acquaintance 
with the contents of our own planet." And if those 
endeavours, which, during war, were so success- 
fully pursued, should be relaxed on the return of 
peace, we might then indeed have cause to think 
meanly of the times in which we live, or, to us^ thf 
Words of this eminent writer, " if we could suj^ 
pose it possible that full justice Will not be done t| 
the noble plan of discovery, so steadily and soj 
successfully carried on since the accession of His 
Majesty, which cannot fail to be considered, in 
every succeeding age, as a splendid period in the 
history of our country, and to add to our national 
glory, by distinguishing Great Britain as taking the 
lead in the most arduous undertakings for the 
<^ommon benefits of the human race." — Introd. to 
Cook's Third Voyage. 

By following up, therefore, the same system, and 
being actuated by the same motives, of promoting 
the extension of human knowledge, the Prince Re- 
gent's government has evinced a correspondent 
feeling ; it has moreover proved, by appropriating 
to the purposes of discovery and maritime geo- 
graphy as great a share as possible of that part of 
the British navy which constitutes the peace estab- 
lishment, its laudable inchnation to cultivate the 
useful arts of peace, not from any selfish views, but 
for the general benefit of mankind. To what pur- 
pose indeed could a portion of our naval force be, 
at any time, but more especially in a time of pro- 
found peace, more honourably or more usefully 
employed, than in completing those mmuticB and 
details of geographical and hydrographical sci- 
ence, of which the grand outlines have been boldly 



INTRODUCTION'. m 

and broadly sketched by Cook, Vancouver, Flin- 
ders, and others of our own countrymen ; by La 
Pe rouse, Dentrecasteaux, Baudin, and other fo- 
reign navigators, French, Spanish, and Russian: 
in ascertaining with greater precision the position 
•f particular points in various parts of the globe — 
on the shores of Asia Minor — of northern Africa, 
and of the numerous islands in th^ Mediterranean 
— the coasts, harbours, and rivers of Newfound- 
land, Labradore, Hudson's bay, and that reproach 
to the present state of European navigation, tlie 
existence or non-existence of Bailin's bay, and the 
northwest passage from the Atlantic to the Eastern 
ocean — in exploring those parts of the northwest 
coast of New Holland, which have not hitherto 
been visited since the time of Dampier — and in 
obtaining more distinct and accurate information 
of those great Archipelagos of islands, and those 
innumerable reefs and islets, which are scattered 
over the northern and southern Pacific oceans, 
and the Indian and Chinese seas, many hundreds 
of which were but the other day discovered, in 
one spot, by the Alceste, on her late voyage up 
the Yellow Sea, where not a single island had 
been even suspected to exist — and, to come nearer 
home, in filling up and correcting those imperfect 
and erroneous surveys of our own coasts, and of 
the seas that surround them — and lastly, in ascer- 
taining with more precision, the exteat, direc- 
tion, and velocity, in different parts and at differ- 
ent seasons of the year^ of that extraordinary 
current known by the name of the Gulf Stream, 
by which all the currents of the northern Atlantic 
are more or le^s influenced. These are objects 
of general concern in which all Europe and Ame- 
rica are equally interested. 



iv INTRODUCTION 

By the present improved state of nautical sci- 
ence, by means of His Majesty's ships of war em- 
ployed on surveys, of the surveying marine of the 
East India Company, and of the accidental dis- 
coveries of commercial vessels, the hydrographi- 
cal knowledge of every part of the globe is daily 
extending itself The line of the coasts which 
form the boundaries of the continents and larger 
islands, are traced with more or less accuracy; 
the positions of most of the islands or groupes of 
islands are generally ascertained; and the pre- 
vailing winds and currents of the ocean are so 
much better understood than formerly, that the 
usual time of an eight or nine months passage to 
or from China, is now reduced to four months, and 
rarely exceeds five. It may be said indeed, ge- 
nerally speaking, that, as far as regards maritime 
discovery, the edge of curiosity has been taken off 
Enough however still remains to be done. The 
deficiency in the detail, and the want of that ac- 
curacy so essentially necessary for the advantage 
and security of navigation, still furnish ample scope 
for further investigation and research. 

But the object of the voyage, of which the nar- 
rative is contained in the present volume, though 
fitted out in the naval department, is nearly, if not 
altogether, unconnected either with maritime dis- 
covery or nautical surveying. It was planned and 
undertaken with the view and in the hope of solv- 
ing, or of being instrumental in solving, a great 
geographical problem, in which all Europe had, 
for some time past, manifested no common degree 
of interest ; and, at any rate, in the almost certain 
means it would afford of adding something to our 
present very confined knowledge of the great 



INTRODUCTION. V 

continent of Africa — that ill-fated country, whose 
unhappy natives, without laws to restrain or go- 
vernments to protect them, have too long been 
the prey of a senseless domestic superstition* and 
the victims of a foreign infamous and rapacious 
commerce. That great division of the globe of 
which, while we know that one part of it aifords 
the most ancient and more stupendous monuments 
of civilized society that exist on the face of the 
earth, another, and by far the greater portion, ex- 
hibits at this day, to the reproach of the state of 
geographical science in the nineteenth century, 
almost a blank on our charts; or what is still 
worse, large spaces filled up with random sketches 
of rivers, lakes, and mountains, which have no 
other existence than that which the fancy of the 
map-maker has given to them on his paper. So 
little indeed has our knowledge of this great cor.- 
tinent kept pace with the increased knowledge of 
other parts of the world, that it may rather be 
said to have retrograded. If we have acquired a 
more detailed and precise acquaintance with the 
outline of its coast, (and in this we arc very defi- 
cient, as the present expedition has proved.) and 
with the position of its headlands and harbours, 
than the Egyptians, the Greeks, or the Romans in 
their time possessed, it may be doubted whether 
the extent and accuracy of their information re- 
specting the interior did not surpass ours; for 
it cannot be denied that, amidst the fabulous 
accounts, which fear or fancy is supposed to 
have created, of regions within and beyond the 
boundaries of the great desert, many impor- 
tant facts are enveloped, which modern disco- 
veries have brought to lis^ht and proved to be 
correct. 



Vi INTRODUCTION. 

For the greater part of what is still known of the 
interior regions of northern Africa, we are in- 
debted to the Arabian writers of the middle ages, 
and to the information of Arabian travellers of our 
own times. After them the Portuguese were the 
first Europeans to penetrate beyond the coast into 
the interior, where they no doubt collected much 
information ; but, unfortunately for the world, it 
was their plan to conceal what they discovered, till 
it has been lost even to themselves. That this na- 
tion sent frequent embassies to Tombuctoo, we 
have the authority of De Barros, which can seldom 
be called in question, and never, we believe, when 
he states mere matters of fact, which is the case 
in the present instance ; but though he mentions 
the names of the persons sent on these missions, 
he omits all the circumstances and occurrences of 
the journey, and fails even to describe this re- 
nowned city. There are however some circum- 
stances which make it possible that the Tombuctoo 
De Barros was no other than the Tambacunda of 
Park and others, as in ail the maps of the sixteenth 
century, taken from Portuguese authority, Tom- 
buctoo is placed not more than from three to four 
hundred miles from the coast, which is about one- 
third part only of its real distance. The Portu- 
guese, however, followed the Arabian geographers 
in describing the stream of the Niger to flow from 
east to west, which Herodotus had learned, nearly 
tw^enty centuries before, to flow in a contrary di- 
rection ; an opinion which Ptolemy afterwards 
seems to have adopted, perhaps on information 
gained from the same source ; though it must be 
confessed, that Ptolemy is unusually obscure in 
his geographical delineation of the rise, direction, 
and termination of this celebrated river. 



INTRODUCTION. VJi 

In the midst of these conflicting opinions respect- 
ing the course of a great river, which was still left 
undecided in our times, the authority of an Eng- 
lish traveller, from personal inspection, set this 
question for ever at rest, by determining the di- 
rection of the stream to be from west to east. 
That part, therefore, of the problem which relates 
to the origin and the direction of the early course 
of this celebrated river, has been completely 
solved ; but another and no less interesting part 
still continues to be wrapt up in mystery — where 
is its termination ? As ancient authorities had 
pointed out the true direction of the stream, it was 
but fair to allow them credit for a knowledge of its 
termination. In the examination of this part of the 
question, by the first geographer of the age, either 
in this or any other country, the authorities of the 
Arabian writers are weighed and compared with 
the geography of Ptolemy ; and after a close and 
accurate investigation of the various statements of 
ancient and modern authorities, and a train of 
reasoning clear and argumentative, the result of 
the inquiry appears to be, that the Niger loses it- 
self in the extensive lakes or swamps of Wan- 
gara ; an hypothesis which was supposed to have 
the merit of falling in pretty nearly with the termi- 
nation of that river, as assigned to it by Ptolemy in 
what he called the Libya palus, which lake, howe- 
ver, Ptolemy only says, is formed hy the Niger. In 
addition to this coincidence, there were also nega- 
tive proofs of the disappearance of the Niger in the 
interior regions of Africa. It could not, for instance, 
be a branch of the Egyptian Nile, as the Arabs 
generally contend, for the two reasons adduced by 
Major Rennell : first, because of the difference of 
level ; the Nile, according to Bruce's measure- 
ment by the barometer, passing over a country 



viii INTRODUCTION. 

whose surface is very considerably higher than the 
smk of North Africa, through which the Niger is 
stated to flow. Secondly, because the Nile of 
Egypt, in this case, must necessarily be kept up 
at the highest pitch of its inundation for a long time 
after that of the Niger, which is well known to be 
contrary to the fact. Neither was it probable, that 
its waters were discharged into the sea on any part 
of the eastern coast, there being no river of mag- 
nitude on the whole extent of that coast from Cape 
Guadafui to Cape Corientes. The hypothesis, 
therefore, of the dispersion and evaporation of the 
waters of the Niger, in lakes of an extended sur- 
face, was the most plausible, and perhaps the 
more readily adopted, as it fell in with ancient 
opinion. 

The stream of this mysterious river being now 
traced with certainty from west to east as far as 
Tombuctoo, so little suspicion seems to have been 
entertained of the probability of its making a cir- 
cuitous course to the sea on the western coast, near 
to which it has its source, that the examination of 
this side of Africa seems entirely to have been left 
out of the question. But when Park was prepar- 
ing for his second expedition to explore the further 
course of this river, it was suggested, that the 
Congo or the Zaire, which flows into the southern 
Atlantic about the sixth degree of south latitude, 
might be the outlet of the Niger ; and as this sug- 
gestion came from a person who, in the capacity of 
an African trader, had not only become well ac- 
quainted with the lower part of this river, but had 
actually made a survey of it, the idea was warmly 
espoused by Park, who, in a memoir addressed to 
Lord Camden, previous to his departure from Eng- 
land, assigns his reasons for becoming a convert to 



IJ^TRODUCTIDN. iX 

this hypothesis ; and he adds, that if this should 
turn out to be the fact, " considered in a commer- 
cial point of view, it is second only to the disco- 
very of the Cape of Good Hope ; and in a geo- 
o^raphical point of view, it is certainly the greatest 
discovery that remains to be made in this world." 

Park's opinion, it may be said, is entitled to no 
greater weight, on this point, than that of any 
other person who had given his attention to the 
subject; and so, it appears. Major Rennell thought, 
who gave him no encouragement to hope for the 
confirmition of this new hypothesis. But the im- 
pression which the facts stated by Mr. Maxwell, and 
his reasoning on those facts, had made on Park's 
mind previous to his leaving England, so far from 
being weakened, appear to have gathered strength 
on his second progress down the river ; and it can 
hardly be doubted, that the unknown termination 
of the stream, and of his own journey, was the 
unceasing object of his anxious inquiries; the re- 
sult of which was, as we are told by his able and 
accurate biographer, that '^he adopted Mr. Max- 
well's sentiments relative to the termination of the 
Niger in their utmost extent, and persevered in that 
opinion to the end of his life;" — perhaps he ought 
rather to have said, "- to the day of his departure 
from Sansanding." That no alteration of opinion 
in this respect had taken place, is quite clear from 
several expressions in his letters from the Niger, 
addressed to Lord Camden, to Sir Joseph Banks, 
and to his wife, in all of which he talks confidently 
of his reaching England by the way of the West 
Indies ; not by a painful journey back by land to 
the Senegal or the Gambia, but by arriving at some 
other and more distant part of the wefttern coa^t. 



X INTRODUCTION. 

This is rendered still more evident tfom the infor- 
mation he collected at Sansanding, which con- 
firmed the hypothesis of the southern direction of 
the Niger. " I have hired a guide (he says) to go 
with me to Kashna ; he is one of the greatest tra- 
vellers in this part of Africa : he says that 
the Niger, after it passes Kashna, runs direct- 
ly to the right hand, or to the south ,• he had 
never heard of any person who had seen its termi- 
nation ; he was sure it did not end near Kashna or 
Bornou, having resided for some time in both these 
kingdoms ;" and to Lord Camden he says, " he was^ 
more and more inclined to think that it can end no 
where but in the sea. 

No wonder then that Park, having thus ascer- 
tained from " one of the greatest travellers in that 
part of Africa," the southerly course of the Niger, 
should be sanguine of proving the validity of Mr. 
Maxwell's hypothesis, and of reaching the West 
Ifidies from the mouth of the Congo. It was not, 
however, his fate to establish the truth or falsity of 
this proposition ; the problem still remains unde- 
termined ; and the termination of the Niger and 
the source of the Congo, are alike unknown. The 
probability of their identity, however, appeared 
to gain ground, not merely because one great river 
took a southerly direction, and had no known ter- 
mination, and another came from the northward, 
nobody knew from whence ; but the more the mag- 
nitude and character of the latter river was inves- 
tigated, and its circumstances weighed and com- 
pared with those effects which might be expected 
to happen from natural causes, the greater colour 
was given to the supposition of their identity. 
It is only surprising that a river of that magnitude 



INTRODUCTIOIS. xi 

and description which belong to the Congo, siiould 
not, long before now, have claimed a more parti- 
cular attention. It is true, the first notice of this 
river is but vaguely given. Diego Cam, in pro- 
ceeding down the coast, observed a strong current 
setting from the land, the waters of which were 
discoloured, and when tasted, found to be fresh. 
These circumstances led him to conclude, that he 
was not far from the mouth of some mighty river, 
which conclusion was soon confirmed by a nearer 
approach. He named it the Congo, as that was 
the name of the country through which it flowed, 
but he afterwards found that the natives called it 
the Zaire ; two names which, since that time, have 
been used indiscriminately by Europeans. It now 
appears that Zaire is the general appellative for any 
great river, like the Nile in North Africa, and the 
Ganges in Hindostan, and that the native name of 
the individual river in question is Moienzi enzaddt, 
or the river which absorbs all other rivers. 

All subsequent accounts agree in the magnitude 
and velocity of this river. In the "Chronica da 
Companhia de Jezus em Portugal," after noticing 
the Egyptian Nile, and the common but erroneous 
notion of its proceeding from the same lake with 
the Zaire, (namely Zembre, " the mother of wa- 
ters,") the latter is described as " so violent and so 
powerful from the quantity of its water, and the ra- 
pidity of its current, that it enters the sea on the 
western side of Africa, forcing a broad and free 
passage (in spite of the ocean) with so much vio- 
lence, that for the space of twenty leagues it pre- 
serves its fresh water unbroken by the briny bil- 
lows which encompass it on every side ; as if this 
noble river had determined to try its strength in 
pitched battle with the ocean itself; and alone deny 



Xii INTRODUCTION. 

it the tribute which all the other tivers in the" 
world pay without resistance." From the follow- 
ing description it is pretty evident that Purchas 
must have been in possession of this rare book 
from which the above account is taken ; though he 
lias not profited by the information it contains re- 
specting the different sources of the Nile and the 
Zaire, "for the Portuguese," says this chronicle, 
" and the fathers of our society who traversed the 
whole empire of Upper Ethiopia, (which we call 
Preste Joao) have clearly proved that the Nile 
does not take its rise iri this lake Zembre, and that 
those authors are mistaken who give it that source." 
Purchas, however, seems to have no scruples about 
the truth of what amounts nearly to a physical im^ 
possibility, — the flowing of two rivers in opposite 
directions out of the same lake. " The Zaire," 
says this quaint writer, " is of such force that no 
ship can get in against the current but neer to the 
shore ; yea, it prevails against the ocean's saltnesse 
threescore, and as some say, fourscore miles within 
tlie sea before his proud waves yeeld their full ho- 
mage, and receive that salt temper in token of sub- 
jection. Such is the haughty spirit of that stream, 
overrunning the low countries as it passeth, and 
swollen with conceit of daily conquests and daily 
supplies, which, in armies of showers are, by the 
clouds, sent to his succour, runnes now in a furious 
rage, thinking even to swallow the ocean, which 
before he n^ver saw, with his mouth wide gaping 
eight and twentee miles, as Lopez affirmeth, in the 
openings but meeting with a more giant-like ene- 
mie which lies lurking under the clifFes to receive 
his assault, is presently swallowed in that wider 
wombe, yet so, as always being conqueiied, he 
never gives over, but in an eternall quarrel, with 
deepe and indebted frownes in his angry face, 
foaming with disdaine, and filling the aire with 



INTRODUCTION. xiii 

noise, (with fresh hclpe) suppHos those forces 
which the salt-s^a hath consumed." 

The strong current at the mouth of the river, 
and as far up as ships have been able to proceed 
— the floating islands carried down by the stream 
into the ocean — the perceptible effects of the cur- 
rent to a very considerable distance from the 
shore — have been corroborated by so many con- 
curring testimonies as not to admit of the smallest 
doubt. Two English frigates, but two years pre- 
vious to the present expedition, fully experienced 
these effects. The Honourable Captain Irby, who 
commanded the Amelia, with difficulty succeeded 
in getting his ship 48 or 50 miles up the river, the 
current running down in the middle of the stream 
at the rate of six and seven knots an hour ; before 
entering the river the ship was anchored at twelve 
miles from the southern point of its mouth in 15 
fathoms, where the current was running at the rate 
of four miles an hour, the water being much agi- 
tated, of the colour of rain-water, and perfectly 
fresh. In this situation they observed in the ocean 
large floating islands, covered with trees and 
bushes, which had been torn from the banks by the 
violence of the current. In the journal of the 
Thais, commanded by Captain Scobell, it is ob- 
served, "In crossing this stream I met several 
floating islands, or broken masses from the banks 
of that noble river, which, with the trees still erect 
and the whole w^afting to the motion of the sea, 
rushed far into the ocean, and formed a novel pros- 
pect even to persons accustomed to the phenome- 
na of the waters." In Maxwell's chart the current 
is laid down near the mouth as running at the rate 
of six miles and seven miles an hour, and the mid- 
channel 100 fathoms deep ; at twenty-four or twen- 



iiv INTRODUCTION. 

ty-five miles up the river, where the funnel or 
estuary is contracted to the natural bed of the 
river, which is about two and a half to three miles 
in width, the depth is still 100 fathoms. At fifty 
miles, the stream is broken into a number of 
branches, by islands and sand banks. Beyond 
ninety miles they are again united into one chan- 
nel, about a mile and a half in width, and the 
depth, in some places fifty, in others thirty, fathoms, 
continuing about the same width and depth to the 
end of the survey, or about 130 miles from the 
mouth of the river ; and it is stated, from informa- 
tion of the native slave dealers at Embomma, that 
it is navigable beyond the termination of this sur- 
vey from Miy to sixty miles, where the navigation 
is interrupted by a great cataract, which they call 
Gamba Enzaddi. He says, however, in his letter 
to Mr. Keir, which was communicated to Park, 
that, according to the accounts he had received 
from traveUing slave merchants, the river is as 
large at 600 miles up the country as at Embomma, 
and that it is there called Enzaddi. 

All these accounts prove the Zaire to be a river 
of very considerable magnitude ; and though not 
to be compared with the Amazons, the Oronooko, 
the Mississippi, St. Laurence, and other magnificent 
waters of the New World, it was unquestionably 
the largest river on the continent of Africa. If the 
calculation be true, that the Zaire at its lowest 
state discharges into the sea two million cubic feet 
of water in a second of time, the Nile, the Indus, 
and Ganges, are but rivulets compared with it, as 
the Ganges, which is the largest of the three, dis- 
charges only about one-fifth of that quantity at its 
highest flood. In point of magnitude, therefore, 
no objection could be urged to its identity with the 
Niger. 



INTRODUCTION. XV 

iMany other objections, however, were started 
against this hypothesis, and in particular the three 
following, namely, 

1. The obstruction of the Kong mountains, 
which, uniting with the Gibbel Komri, are sup- 
posed to extend in one unbroken chain across 
the continent. 2. The great length of its course, 
which would exceed 4000 miles; whereas the 
course of the Amazons, the greatest river in the 
world, is only about 3500 mileS. 3. The absence 
of all traces of the Mahommedan doctrines or 
institutions, and of the Arabic language, on the 
coast where the Zaire empties itself into the sea. 

The first objection is wholly gratuitous, as the 
existence of this chain of mountains has not been 
ascertained, nor is it easy to conjecture on what 
grounds it has been imagined. Park saw to the 
southward of his route, at no great distance from 
the sea-coast, the peak of the cluster of mountains 
called the Kong, out of which the Niger, the Sene- 
gal, and the Gambia, take their rise. The Moun- 
tains of the Moon have been placed towards the 
central parts of Africa; but if Bruce visited that 
branch of the Nile, which is said to rise out of 
these mountains, (which is more than doubtful,) 
they are actually not further removed from the 
eastern, than those of the Kong are from the west- 
ern coast. But by what authority they are united, 
and stretched completely across the continent, 
like a string of beads, it would be difficult we be- 
lieve for our modern geographers to point out. 
There is evidence however to the contrary. All 
the Haoussa traders who have been questioned 
on the subject, and who come frequently to Lagos, 
and other places on the coast of Guinea, with 
slaves, deny that ihey meet on their journey with 



xvi INTROpUCTION. 

any mountains, and that the only difficulties and 
obstructions arise from the frequent rivers, lakes, 
and swamps which they have to cross. But ad- 
mitting that such a chain did exist, and that it was 
one solid, unbroken range of primitive granite, it 
would be, even in that singular case, the only in- 
stance, perhaps, of such an extended barrier re- 
sisting the passage of an accumulated mass of 
water. Even the Himmalaya, the largest and pro- 
l^ably the loftiest range in either the New or Old 
World, has not been able to oppose an effectual 
barrier to the southern streams or Tartary. The 
main branch of the Ganges, it is true, does not, as 
was once supposed, pervade it, but the Burampu- 
tra, the Sutlej and the Indus, have forced their 
way through this immense granite chain. The 
rocky mountains of America have opened a gate for 
the passage of the Missouri ; and the Delaware, the 
Susquehanna and the Potomac have forced their 
way through the Alleghany range. This objection* 
then,may fairly be said to fall to the ground. 

The objection to the length of its course is 
somewhat more serious, but not so formidable as 
at first it may appear. The great difficulty, per- 
haps the only one that suggests itself, arises from 
the vast height which the source of a river must 
necessarily be above the level of the sea, in order 
to admit of its waters being carried over a space 
of 4000 miles ; and from the certainty that Park, 
(who, it must be observed, however, measured 
nothing) passed no mountains of extraordinary 
height to get at the Niger. A critic, in a popular 
journal, whose arguments in favour of the identity 
of the Niger and Zaire were probably in3trumental 
in bringing about the present expedition, in an- 
swer to this objection, has assumed the moderate 



I 



INTRODUCTION. Xvii 

height of 3000 feet for the source of the Niger 
above the surface of the ocean. This height, he 
observes, would give to the decHvity or slope of 
the bed of the river, an average descent of nine 
inches in each mile throughout the course of 4000 
miles. Condamine," he adds, " has calculated the 
descent of the Amazons at six inches and three 
quarters per mile, in a straight line, which, allow- 
ing for its windings, would be reduced, according 
to Major RennePs estimate, to about four inches a 
mile for the slope of its bed." And this descent 
is not very different from that of the bed of the 
Ganges; it having been ascertained from a sec- 
tion, taken by order of Mr. Hastings, of sixty 
miles in length, parallel to a branch of the Gan- 
ges, to have nine inches of descent in each mile in 
a straight line, which, by the windings of the river 
was reduced to four inches a mile, the same as the 
bed of the Amazons : and this small descent gave 
a rate of motion to that stream somewhat less than 
three miles an hour in the dry, and from five to six 
an hour in the wet season, but seven or eight 
under particular situations and under certain cir- 
cumstances. If, then, the Ganges and the Ama- 
zons flow at the rate of three miles in their lowest, 
and six miles in their highest state, with an ave- 
rage descent of no more than four inches a mile, 
while the Niger, according to the hypothesis, 
would have an average descent of nine inches a 
mile, the objection to the great length of its course 
in supposing its identity with the Zaire, would 
seem to vanish. It has been sufliciently proved, 
however, that the velocity of rivers depends not 
on the declivity of their beds alone, but chiefly on 
the mass and velocity of the water thrown into 
their channels at the spring head, and the supplies 

r> 



xviii INTRODUCTION. 

they receive from tributary branches as they pro- 
ceed in their course. In the Amazons, the Gan- 
ges, the Senegal, the Gambia, and in every river 
whose course, in its approach to the ocean, lies 
through a low country, it will be found, that the 
rise of a few feet in the tide is sufficient to force 
back, up an inclined plane, by its mass and 
velocity, the whole current of the river to the dis- 
tance of several hundred miles, and the farther in 
proportion to the narrowness and depth of the 
channel beyond its funnel-shaped mouth. In esti- 
mating the probability, therefore, of the identity of 
the Zaire and the Niger, as far as th« length of 
their course may be supposed to offer an objec- 
tion, we should inquire rather into the supply of 
water than the declivity of the country through 
which it would have to pass. In this respect, the 
Niger would be placed under very peculiar cir- 
cumstances; its course, lying on both sides of the 
Equator, and through a considerable portion of 
both tropical regions, would necessarily be placed, 
in one part or other, under the parallels of per- 
petual rains, and consequently receive a perpetual 
supply of water. Now all the representations that 
have been given of the lower part of the Zaire, 
describe it as being nearly in a perpetual state of 
flood, the height in the dry season being within 
nine feet of the height in the season of heavy rains ; 
whilst the difference in the height of the Nile and 
the Ganges, at the two periods, exceeds thirty feet. 
The flooding of the Zaire is therefore periodical, 
its highest state being in March, and lowest about 
the end of August; a proof that it is influenced by 
the tropical rains, and that one branch of it, at 
least, must pass through some portion of the north- 
ern hemisphere. 



INTRODUCTION. xix 

Another objection has been made to the iden- 
tity of the Niger and the Zaire, grounded on the 
circumstance of no traces being discovered of the 
Mahomedan doctrines or institutions on the coast 
where the latter terminates. It would be a suffi- 
cient answer to observe, that as far as our present 
knowledge extends, the Niger, in Northern Africa, 
formed the boundary of Mahomedan invasion. 
What the difficulties may have been, whether 
moral or physical, or both, " to impede the spirit 
of enterprise and proselytism which belongs to 
the Mahomedan character," it would be idle to 
conjecture ; but that they have been impeded, and 
in a great measure limited to the parallel of the 
Niger while on its eastern course, is pretty cer- 
tain; yet there appears to be neither difficulty 
nor want of means in crossing this river, though 
there may be both in descending it. Independent- 
ly of the lakes and swamps, the sand-banks and 
rapids, that may occur, the Africans have not at 
any time, or in any part of the country, been fa- 
mous for river navigation. But it is far from im- 
probable, that Arab priests or traders may have 
penetrated into southern Africa; on the eastern 
coasts they held, at one time, powerful settlements, 
and Arabic words occur in all the languages of 
the negroes even on the western coast. 

Some vague objections have been stated to the 
identity of the Niger and Zaire, from their differ- 
ence of temperature, the precise meaning of which 
it is not easy to comprehend. In what way, it 
may be asked, can the temperature of a stream 
in IG'' N. lat. affect the temperature of the same 
stream in 6° S. lat. ? There is no assignable ratio 
in which it ought to increase or decrease in its 



XX INTRODUCTION. 

long course ; it may change daily, and many times 
in the course of the day according to the tempera- 
ture of the surrounding atmosphere. Of the tem- 
perature of the Niger nothing is known, for Park 
does not appear to have noticed it ; but that of 
the Zaire was repeatedly ascertained, in the pre- 
sent expedition, in different parts of its course, 
and was seldom found to differ more than 2° of 
Fahrenheit either way, from the temperature of 
the atmosphere ; remaining most commonly about 
76, and 77% which was pretty nearly the mean day 
temperature of the atmosphere. 

The hypothesis of Mr. Reichard, a German 
geographer of some eminence, which makes the 
Niger to pour its waters into the gulf of Benin, is 
entitled to very little attention. The data on 
which it is grounded are all of them wholly gra- 
tuitous. He proceeds on a calculation of the quan- 
tity of water, evaporated from the surface of the 
lakes of VVangara, and the quantity thrown into 
them by the Niger, without knowing whether the 
Niger flows into them or not, or even where Wan- 
gara is situated, much less the extent and magni- 
tude of those lakes. The Rio del Rey, the For- 
mosa, and the numerous intermediate branches 
that open into the gulf of Benin, are supposed to 
join in one great stream beyond the flat alluvial 
land which they seem to have formed ; the suppo- 
sition, however, has never been verified by obser- 
vation; but as far as it is known, the Rio del 
Rey proceeds from the northward, and the other 
branches have a tendency to the northwest. Whe- 
ther, therefore, they unite, or not, the probability 
certainly is in favour of all the str^^'ams, from Guinea 
to Biafra, having their sources in the southern face 



INTRODUCTION. XX i 

oi the Kong mountains. It can scarcely be sup- 
posed that the same mountains, whose northern 
sides give rise to the three large rivers, the Niger, 
the Senegal, and the Gambia, should have their 
southern faces destitute of streams. If, however, 
we refer these numerous branches to some great 
stream crossing the continent, from the northeast, 
the Houssa merchants, in their journey to Lagos, 
must necessarily pass it ; but by their own account, 
though numerous streams, and lakes, and marshes 
occur, they neither cross any high mountain, or 
very large river. 

In this unsatisfactory state of doubt and conjec- 
ture, in which a most important geographical pro- 
blem was involved, two expeditions were set on 
foot under the auspices of Government ; the one 
to follow up the discovery of Park by descending 
the stream of the Niger, the other to explore the 
Zaire upwards towards its source. Independently 
of any relation which the latter might be supposed 
to have to the former, the river itself, from all the 
descriptions which had been given of it, from its 
first discovery by Diego Cam down to the present 
time, was of sufficient magnitude to entitle it to 
be better known. To accomplish this object more 
of difficulty was apprehended in the navigation, 
than of danger from the hostility of the natives, 
or the unhealthiness of the climate, neither of 
which had opposed any obstacle to the progress 
of the Portuguese. It was well known both to 
them and the slave-dealers of Liverpool, who 
used to frequent this river, that its navigation was 
impeded by a cataract at no great distance from 
its mouth ; but that was not considered as a rea- 
son why it should not again become navigable be- 



Xxii INTRODUCTION. 

yond it. Maxwell's information from the slave- 
dealers stated it to be so for six hundred miles 
above this cataract. 

In exploring the course of an unknown river 
upwards, there would obviously be less risk to 
the parties employed than in following the stream 
downwards. In the first case a retreat could al- 
ways be secured when the navigation became no 
longer practicable, or the state of the country 
rendered it unsafe to proceed ; in the second, 
every moment might be pregnant with unforeseen 
dangers from which there could be no retreat. 
The river might, for instance, suddenly and im- 
perceptibly become bristled with rocks, and its 
rapid stream roll with such velocity as to sweep 
the unfortunate navigator to certain destruction 
down a cataract ; or it might spread out its waters 
into a wide lake without an outlet, which, be- 
coming in the dry season a boundless swamp, 
would equally doom him to inevitable destruction. 
No one can tell what the fate of Park may have 
been, but no one wilj believe that this enterprising 
traveller finished his career in the manner related 
by Isaaco, on the pretended authority of Amadou 
Fatima. Some persons indeed are still sanguine 
enough to suppose he may be living. It is just 
possible, and barely so, after such a lapse of time, 
that this unfortunate traveller may have been hur- 
ried down the stream of the Niger into the heart 
of Africa, and placed in a situation from whence 
he had neither the means of returning or of pro- 
ceeding ; but what these obstacles may have been, 
whether moral or physical, or both, in the total 
absence of all information it would be idle to con- 
jecture; it may reasonably be concluded, how- 



I NTRODUCTION. Xxiii 

ever, that if this intelligent traveller had still been 
living, he would long ere now have hit upon some 
expedient to make his situation known. 

It was hoped, then, even should the immediate 
object of the expedition up the Zaire not prove 
successful, that some more correct as well as more 
extensive information, respecting the regions 
through which it flows, would be the result of it. 
Some doubt was entertained, in making prepara- 
tions for exploring the river, as to the kind of ves- 
sel which might be found most suitable and conve- 
nient in all respects to be employed on the occa- 
sion. Among other qualifications, two were indis- 
pensably necessary ; first, that she should draw but 
little water; and secondly, that she should afford 
sufficient accommodations for the officers and crew, 
for the Naturalists and their collections, besides an 
ample supply of provisions and presents, without 
which there is no getting on among the Africans. 
It was suggested by Sir Joseph Banks, who, from 
ihe lively interest he invariably takes, and the 
willing assistance he is ever ready to afford, where 
the advancement of human knowledge is concern- 
ed, was the first to be consulted on the present oc- 
casion, that a steam engine might be found useful 
to impel the vessel against the rapid current of the 
river. Many reasons were urged for and against 
the employment of a steam vessel. If individuals 
both in Europe and America find it of advantage to 
avail themselves of the aid of this powerful agent, 
it could not be less advantageous when employed 
on the public service ; it would spare the men the 
labour of rowing when the wind should be foul, or 
failed. Some difficulties were started with regard 
to fuel, but these were overruled by the well 



XXI V INTRODUCTION. 

known fact, that on the banks of the lower parts 
of the river are whole forests of the mangrove, the 
wood of which possesses the peculiar quality of 
burning in its green state better than when dry ; 
but it was not known to what extent these forests 
might reach, though it was fair to presume, that, in 
an equinoctial climate, where water was to be 
found, wood would not be wanting. At the same 
time it could not escape notice that the labour of 
felling and preparing fuel for the boiler of a steam 
engine to the amount of about three tons a day, 
in such a climate, might be fully as fatiguing, and in 
all probability more fatal to the crew, than the oc- 
casional operation of rowing. If, however, it 
could have been certain that this vast and rapid 
river was navigable beyond the cataracts, and its 
banks well wooded, a steam engine might prove a 
good auxiliary ; and accordingly it Was determined 
that a vessel, capable of being navigated by steam 
should forthwith be constructed. 

But another difficulty presented itself The 
vessel was not only to be constructed so as to be 
adapted to the flats and shallows that might 
occur in the river, but so as to ensure her a safe 
passage across the Atlantic ; this was thought 
by many persons to be no easy task. The bur- 
den of the vessel was not to exceed one hun- 
dred tons, her draft of water four feet : of this 
tonnage it was calculated that the engine of 24 
horses' power would alone occupy one-third part, 
and, of her measurement, the whole breadth of 
the vessel, and twenty feet in length. Such a ves- 
sel, however, with so lieavy a burden and so small 
a displacement of water, Mr. Seppings, the sur- 
veyor of the navy, undertook to construct, and at 



INTRODUCTION. XXV 

the same time to give her such strength and sta- 
bility under sail as would enable her to be navi- 
gated in safety to the southern Atlantic. It had 
been proposed to send her out in frame, and to 
set her up in the river, but against this plan there 
were insuperable objections. 

Messrs. Watt and Bolton were put in communi- 
cation with Mr. Seppings, in order that a proper 
steam engine might be fitted for the vessel. Un- 
fortunately, however, by some misconception, the 
engine with its boiler was heavier, or the vessel 
drew more water, than had been anticipated ; the 
consequence of which was, that at the highest 
pitch of the engine it would not propel her through 
the water at a greater speed than that of four 
k'lots an hour; and when lightened to the draught 
of four feet three inches, her rate of going never^ 
exceeded five knots and a half an hour, ft was 
therefore so obvious that this rate of going never 
could compensate for the very great incumbrance 
of a machine that occupied one-third part of the 
vessel, that it was at once determined to get rid of 
it altogether; a measure which was earnestly urged 
by Captain Tuckey, as he thereby would procure a 
most important addition for the stowage of pro\i- 
sions, and the accomnodation of his crew. As 
the trial of this steam vessel, which had been con- 
structed with the view of combining the opposite 
qualities of navigating the ocean by the power of 
the wind, and stemming the current of a river by 
that of steam, had attracted a very considerable 
degree of curiosity, the failure brought forward a 
shoal of projectors, every one ready with his in- 
fallible remedy ; and Messrs. Bolton and Watt were 
no less anxious to try the result of another engine 



xxvi INTRODUCTION. 

with some difference in the application of its 
power; but the season for the departure of the 
expedition had arrived, the month of January had 
ah'eady expired, the officers and men of science 
were all engaged, the articles for presents pur- 
chased, the instruments prepared, and it was most 
desirable that the expedition should reach the 
coast of Southern Africa not later than May, or 
June at farthest, in order that the voyage up the 
river might commence with the early part of the 
dry season. 

Mr. Seppings and Captain Tuckey were both of 
opinion that, with a trifling alteration, the Congo 
(for so she had been nam^d,) might be converted 
ii to an excellent sea vessel, and equally proper for 
ascending the river by the ordinary means of navi- 
^gation, namely, by sail and oav; and as far as the ri- 
ver navigation was concerned, they were confirmed 
in this opinion by information collected from the 
master of a merchant vessel, who had been several 
voyages up the Zaire to the distance of 140 
miles from its mouth, and who stated that he 
had never found the least difficulty in ascending 
with a schooner to that distance by the assistance 
of the sea-breeze, which sets in regularly every 
day ; the current cf the river seldom, by his ac- 
count, exceeding five miles an hour in the dry sea- 
son, and in many parts not running more than three. 

The engine was accordingly removed without 
delay from the Congo, and sent, where it was much 
wanted, to the new works at Chatham dock-yard ; 
the proposed alteration was immediately made, 
and on trial of her qualities. Captain Tuckey re- 
ported, that, " he had no hesitation in saying, that 
she was, in every respect, fit for the business." 



INTRODUCTION. xxvii 

The contrary opinion had been licld by many sea 
officers, who still persisted, that she would never 
cross the Atlantic ; but her first essay from the 
Nore to the Downs fully justified Captain Tuckey's 
expectations. "I am much gratified," he says, 
*Mn being able to inform you, that the Congo justi- 
fies, as far as she has been tried, my obstinacy^ in 
wishing to keep her in preference to any other. 
In running, yesterday, from the Nore to the North 
Foreland, with a fair wind, she kept way with the 
transport (Dorothy) ; and what is more extraordi- 
nary, in working from the Foreland into the 
Downs, the wind at west, blov« ing so fresh that the 
transport could scarcely carry double-reefed top- 
sails, the Congo heat her completely, and indeed 
every other vessel working down at the same time ; 
in short, she has completely falsified the sinister 
predictions of her numerous traducers, as far as 
sailing is concerned ; moreover, she scarcely feels 
her sails, and is as dry as possible." It may here 
be added, that during the voyage, she answered 
every good purpose, was a dry commodious vessel, 
perfectly safe at sea, and is now employed on the 
surveying service in the German Ocean, or North 
Sea, for which she is admirably adapted It is the 
more necessary that this should be stated, as her 
form, which pretty nearly resembles that of a horse 
trough, militates strongly against the generally re- 
ceived opinions of naval men, as to the most eligi- 
ble forms of bodies calculated for moving best 
through fluids by meeting with the least resistance. 
It is also worthy of notice, that the principle on 
which the Congo was built is very similar to that 
for which the late Lord Stanhope so strongly con- 
tended, as being the most proper for ships of war, 
by uniting in one body, strength, stability, stowage, 



XXviii INTRaDUCTIO?^, 

accommodations for the people, and alight draught 
of water; but Lord Stanhope's ideas were re- 
jected bj a committee of naval officers as crude 
and visionary, with the exception, we believe, of 
one individual. The Congo was schooner-rigged, 
and three parallel keels assisted in enabling her to 
hold a good wind. 

In the event of meeting with shallows, rapids, 
or cataracts, of the existence of which no doubt 
could be entertained, though the accounts given of 
them were vague and uncertain, it was necessary 
that some lighter kind of vessel should be provided 
capable of being transported by land ; Captain 
Tuckey proposed a double-boat built of light ma- 
terials, drav/iog very little water, and which, when 
screwed together by means of a kind of connecting 
platform, should be able to carrj from twenty to 
thirty men, with three months provisions; each 
boat was 35 feet long, and six feet broad, and when 
put together a canopy was fitted to keep off the 
sun and rain. A second double-boat was after- 
wards provided, and several smaller ones; and as 
the size of the Congo was wholly inadequate to the 
stowage of these boats, with the provisions, water, 
presents, &;c. the Dorothy transport, of about 350 
tons, was appointed to accompany the expedition 
into the river Zaire, when, after transhipping into 
the Congo all that could be deemed necessary for 
the prosecution of the great object of exploring 
the river, she was to return to England. 

The armament of the Congo, the quantities and 
the different kinds of provisions and refreshments, 
were left to the discretion of Captain Tuckey. — 
Presents of the usual kind, such as iron tools, 



INTRODUCTION. xxix 

knives, glassware, beads, bafts, umbrellas, &;c. 
were put on board in such quantities of each as the 
Congo could conveniently stow; mathematical and 
philosophical instruments for surveying the river, 
for astronomical, meteorological, and other scien- 
tific purposes were also provided, in order that 
every kind of information might be brought back, 
in as complete a manner as the present state of the 
sciences and other circumstances would allow. 

The officers and men composing the crew of the 
Congo consisted of the following persons, the great- 
er part of whom were left to the choice of the 
commander, and were all of them volunteers : 

Captain J. K. Tuckey, Commander. 

Lieutenant John Hawkey. 

Mr. Lewis Fitzmaurice, Master and Surveyor, 

Mr. Robert Hodder, Master's Mate. 

Mr. Robert Beecraft, Master's Mate, 

Mr. John Eyre, Purser, 

Mr. James M^Kerrow, Assistant Surgeon, 

8 I'etty officers. 

4 Carpenters. 

2 Blacksmiths. 

14 Able Seamen. 

1 Sergeant, ) r ik/i - 

1 Corporal, \ "^ '^^"»^^- 

12 Private Marines, 
making in the whole 49 persons. To whom were 
added on a supernumerary list, 

Mr. Professor Smith, Botanist, 

Mr. Cranch, Collector of Objects of JVaturcd 
History. 

Mr. Tudor, Comparative Anatomist, 

Mr. Galwey, a Volunteer. 



XXX INTRODUCTION. 

Mr. Lockhart, from His Majesty's Garden at 

Kew. 
Benjamm Benjamin, ) ^^^.^^^ ^^ ^ 
bomme feimmons, ) ° 

of these 35 took their passage out on board the 
transport, and 21 were on board the Congo to na- 
vigate her to the Zaire. 

As so very httle was known of the course of the 
Zaire, and nothing at all beyond the first cataracts, 
it was at first intended to leave Captain Tuckey 
entirely to his own discretion, to act as circum- 
stances might appear to require, and to furnish him 
only wdth general directions to use his best endea- 
vours for the prosecution of the principal object, 
and the promotion of general science ; but Captain 
Tuckey pressed with such urfi^ency for specific in- 
structions, that, as he observ ed, he might be satis- 
fied in his own mind when he had done all that was 
expected from him, that his wishes in this respect 
were complied with; and the instructions, of which 
the following are copies, were given for his guid- 
ance, a draft of them having first been sent for his 
perusal, w hich met with his entire approbation. 

By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Ad- 
miral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland^ 



HERE AS, we have thought fit to appoint you to the com- 
mand of his Majesty's ship Congo, destined for an expedition of 
discovery up the River Zaire, into the interior of Africa, by 
command of His Royal Highness the Prince Regent, signified 
to us by Earl Bathurst : you are hereby required and directed 
to receive on board the said ship, the persons named on the 
other side hereof,* with their baggage, instruments, &c. (which 

'^•' Mr. Professor Smith, Botanist. 
J\j[r. Tudor, Comparative Anatomist. 
Mr. Cranch, Collector of Objects of Xaiural History. 

LocKAKT, a Gardener. 



FNTRODUCTION. xxxi 

persons you are to bear on a supernumerary list for victuals on- 
ly) ; and having taken under your orders tlie transport Dorothy, 
laden with certain stores and provisions, for the use of the ex- 
pedition, you are to put to sea without delay, and make the best 
of your way into the river Zaire, commonly called the Congo, 
in southern Africa, and having proceeded up that river to some 
convenient place for transhipping the stores, and provisions 
abovementioned, you are to direct the master of the transport 
to return to Spitliead. sending by him an account of your pro- 
ceedings, for our information. 

On the departure of the transport, you will proceed up the 
Zaire, and use your utmost endeavours to carry into execution 
the instructions contained in the memorandum, which accompa- 
nies this order ; and on your return to the mouth of the river, 
you are either to proceed to England, to the Isle of St. Thomas, 
or to St. Helena, as you may judge most expedient for the 
safety of yourself, and people intrusted to your charge, after a 
due consideration of the state of the vessel and of your provi- 
sions ; reporting to our Secretary, for our information, your 
arrival, and transmitting an account of your proceedings. 

Given under our hands, the 7th of February, 1816. 

(Sig7ied) MELVILLE. 

GEO. I. HOPE. 
H. PAULET. 
To James K. Tuckey, Esq. Commander of 

his Majestifs Sloop Congo, at Deptford, 

By Command of their Lordships, 

(^Signed) John Barrow. 

Memorandum of an Instruction to Captain Tuckey. 
Although the expedition, about to be undertaken for explor- 
ing the course of the river Zaire, which flows through the 
kingdom of Congo, in southern Africa, was originally grounded 
on a suggestion of its being identical with the Niger, it is not to 
be understood, that the attempt to ascertain this point is by 
any means the exclusive object of the expedition. That a 
river of such magnitude as the Zaire, and offering so many pe- 
culiarities, should not be known with any degree of certainty, 
beyond, if so far as, 200 miles from its mouth, is incompatible 
with the present advanced state of geographical science, and 
little creditable to those Europeans, who, for three centuries 
nearly, have occupied various parts of the coast, near to which 
it empties itself into the sea, and have held communication 
with the interior of the country through which it descends, 
bv means of missionaries, and slave asfents : so contined indeed 



xxxii INTRODUCTION. 

is our knowledge of the course of this remarkable river, that 
the only chart of it, which can have any pretension to accuracy, 
does not extend above 130 miles, and the correctness of this 
survey, as it is called, is more than questionable. 

There can be little doubt, however, that a river, which runs 
more rapidly, and discharges more water, than either the 
Ganges or the Nile, and which has this peculiar quality of be- 
ing, almost at all seasons of the year, in a flooded state, must 
not only traverse a vast extent of country, but must also be 
supplied by large branches flowing from different, and proba- 
bly opposite directions ; so that some one or more of them 
must, at all times of the year, pass through a tract of country 
where the rains prevail. To ascertain the sources of these 
great branches, then, 'will be one of the principal objects of the 
present expedition : but in the absence of more correct infor- 
mation, the instructions regarding the conduct to be observed, 
can be grounded only on probable conjecture. 

The unusual phenomenon of the constant flooded state of the 
Zaire, as mentioned by the old writers, and in part confirmed 
by more recent observations, would seem to warrant the sup- 
position, that one great branch, perhaps the main trunk, de- 
scends from the tropical region to the northward of the Line ; 
and if in your progress it should be found, that the general 
trending of its course is from the north-east, it will strengthen 
the conjecture of that branch and the Niger being one and the 
same river. 

It will be adviseable, therefore, as long as the mainstream of 
the Zaire shall be found to flow from the northeast, or between 
that point and the north, to give the preference to that stream ; 
and, to endeavour to follow it to its source : at the same time, 
not to be drawn off by every large branch of the river, that may 
fall into the main stream from the northward, but to adhere to 
the main trunk, as long as it shall continue to flow from any 
point of the compass, between the north and east. 

It is also probable that a very considerable br nch of the. 
Zaire will be found to proceed from the east, or southeast ; as 
it has been ascertained, that all the rivers of southern Africa, 
as far as this division of the continent has been traversed from 
the Cape of Good Hope, northwards, flow from the elevated 
lands on the eastern coast, across the continent, in a direction 
from the west to northwest : and it may perhaps be considered 
as a corroboration of the existence of some easy water convey- 
ance between the eastern and western coasts of south Africa, 
that the language of Mosambique very nearly resembles the 
language spoken on the banks of the Zaire. 



INTRODUCTION. XXXiii 

If this conjecture should turn out to be well founded, such 
an eastern stream, being next in point of interest, will claim the 
second place in point of attention ; and if it should appear to be 
navigable through the heart of southern Atrica, to the high 
lands on the eastern coast, it may probably hereafter be consi- 
dered as the first in point of importance ; by opening a conve- 
nient communication through a line country, from the southern 
Atlantic to the proximity of the Indian or eastern ocean ; and 
with the once opulent kingdoms of Melinda, Zanzibar^ Quiloa, 
&c. 

With regard to a large branch proceeding from the south- 
ward, out of a lake called Aquelunda, so many details, though 
loose and vague, have been given by the early Spanish and 
Italian missionaries, that one can scarcely be permitted to doubt 
of its existence. As this branch is likely to be, from the bar- 
ren nature of the country to the southward, and along the 
western coast, the least important and least interesting, it will be 
adviseable to leave it unexplored until the return of the expedi- 
tion from examining the others ; unless indeed, what would be 
contr.iry to all expectation, and irreconcilable with the peculiar 
phenomena of the river, this southern branch should turn out 
to be the mam trunk. But though less interesting than the 
others, this branch will require a more accurate examination 
than has hitherto been given to it, which however may be left, 
until the more important branches, whose existence we haye 
supposed, may have been explored. 

If, after all, it should be found that unforeseen and invinci- 
ble obstacles oppose themselves to your penetrating, by any of 
the branches of the Zaire, to a considerable distance into the 
interior (obstacles which it is hoped may not occur,) you are, 
in that case, after collecting all the information in your power, 
during your descent of the river, to proceed without loss of 
time to the Bight of Benin, where you will endeavour to ascer^- 
tain whether the great Delta, supposed to be formed by a 
river, one branch of wliich, usually known by the name of Rio 
del Key, flows into the Atlantic on the eastern, and the other, 
the Rio Formosa, on the western side of the said Delta, be actu- 
ally so formed : or whether these branches be two separate and 
distinct rivers. The determining this question is the more 
interesting, as, on the supposition of the union of these two 
great streams, the continental geographers have raised an 
hypothesis that the Niger, after reaching Wangara, takes, first, 
a direction towards the south, and then bending to the south- 
west, discharges itself into the Gulf of Guinea. In the even- 
tual prosecution of this discovery, the same instructions will 
;ipply as those for your guidance up the Zaire. 

F 



xxxiv INTRODUCTION. 

Keeping therefore the general principles" abovementioned 
in view, the mode of carrying the examination of either of the 
rivers into effect must be left, in a great degree, to your judg- 
ment and discretion, after a due consideration of all the local 
circumstances that may present themselves, and the informa- 
tion you may be able to collect on the spot. 

It may be observed, however, that the occurrence of rapids 
or of a cataract, impeding the navigation of the river, is not to 
be considered as a sufficient obstacle to the further prosecu- 
tion of the attempt to discover its source. In the event of 
meeting with an obstacle of this kind, it will be necessary, in 
the first place, to look out for a safe and proper situation for 
mooring the Congo, and then to use all possible means, by 
trucks and other apparatus with which you will be furnished, 
to get the double boats, with one or both of the small ones, if 
necessary, to the upper part of the rapids : and having accom 
plished this, to divide the officers and crew between the Congo 
and the double boats, in such manner and in such proportion* 
as you shall deem to be most expedient for the protection of 
the former, and the management of the latter in their further 
progress up the river ; taking care tliat, whenever it may be 
necessary to detach the boats, the gentlemen to whom the sci- 
entific departments of the expedition have been assigned, shall 
always accompany them ; in order that no opportunity may be 
omitted of examining and collecting specimens of the natural 
products of the country, through which the Zaire, or any of 
its larger branches, may fiow. 

On your arrival in the river, you will endeavour to find out 
a suitable spot for transhipping such stores and provisions from 
the transport to the Congo as the latter may be able to take on 
board. The anchorage opposite the Tall Trees is understood 
to be a safe and healthy spot ; but there are many reasons that 
would make it adviseable not to stop at a place so near the 
slave-trade stations of the Portuguese ; and you cannot be too 
much on your guard against the agents of this nation, concern- 
ed in carrying on that trade, whether they are white men or 
blacks ; and as it is understood, that many vessels have been 
as high up as Embomma, a place of considerable trade, you 
may, should you find it practicable, carry up the transport to 
that place, or even to Benda, which is still higher, before you 
dismiss her down the river; in doing which, you will take care 
to provide her with such arms and ammunition as may be ne- 
cessary, for her defence against any attack that may be made 
upon her by the canoes of the natives ; cautioning the master 
to have no communication w ith them, but to make the best of 
bis way down the river, and from thence to Spithead ; and you 



INTRODUCTION. XXXV 

will take this opportunity of sending home an account of your 
proceedings to the date of her departure. 

It is understood that, at Embonima, you nill be likely to meet 
ivith natives who speak the English and Portuguese languages : 
and it is probable, that you may lind it useful to employ one or 
more of the respectable inhabitants to proceed with you as in- 
terpreters, and to explain to their countrymen the real mo- 
lives and views of the expedition. You will, of course, avail 
yourself of the assistance of such persons, and collect from 
them every information they may be a1)le to give of those parts 
of the continent tiirough which the river descends; and on 
your entering the country of any new tribe of people, your tirst 
rare should be to obtain interpreters, and to make it clearly 
understood to the chiefs of every tribe, that you mean to make 
them suitable presents, or pay them such transit duty as may 
he customary ; and you are to take especial care that no cause 
of jealousy or quarrels with the natives be occasioned by any of 
the officers or men under your orders. 

It wotild be unnecessary to go into a minute detail of the va- 
rious duties you will have to perform on this voyage of disco- 
very, the conduct of which has been intrusted to your charge ; 
or of the probable objects that will present themselves for your 
research ; but the mention of some of the more prominent 
points that should cl-Aim your attention, may enable you to pre- 
pare 3'ourself on your passage thither, by making arrangements 
for your future proceedings after the departure of the transport 
for England. 

Among the more important points, then, for observation, may 
be mentioned, the depth of the river ; the strength of the cur- 
rent in general, and its velocity in particular places ; the quan- 
tity of its rise and fall, from land tioods and droughts ; the 
quality of the water as to clearness or muddiness ; the direction 
of the several reaches ; and the latitude and longitude of every 
spot remarkable for any particular produce, towns, hamlets, 
neighbouring mountains, &,c. and of the points of junction of 
branches falling into the main stream ; all of which should be 
particularly attended to. The variation of the compass should 
be taken and stated down, as frequently as opportunities may 
offer tor ascertaining it; and a set of observations of the dip of 
the magnetic needle is very desirable, to obtain which, their 
Lordshi[)s have directed a very excellent dipping needle, by 
iJlunt, to be supplied lor your use. 

You will also, with the assistance of the vSurveyor, be care- 
ful to keep an account of each day's run, to enable you to lay 
down with tolerable correctness a chart of the river and the 
adjacent banki^. and on surh a scale, as will admit of the main 



xxxvi INTRODUCTION. 

features of the country, and all remarkable objects, being- 
marked down upon it: among other things, the ranges of wood 
along the banks ; the places where those ranges are interrupted, 
and to what extent ; the nature of the prevailing trees, and 
their quality as fuel in a green state, in order that a competent 
judgment may be formed of the supply of fuel, should it, at any 
time hereafter, be thought expedient to navigate the Zaire by 
steam boats. 

It is almost unnecessary to observe to you, how important it 
will be to keep a journal of your proceedings. In this journal 
all your observations and occurrences of every kind, with all 
their circumstances, however minute, and however familiar 
they may have been rendered by custom, should be carefully 
noted down } and although the gentlemen employed in the seve- 
ral departments of science, will each be instructed to keep their 
respecti\'e journals, it will not, on that account, be the less 
desirable that you should be as circun>stantial as possible in 
describing, in your own, the general appearance of the coun- 
try, its surface, soil, animals, vegetables, and minerals ; eve- 
ry thing that relates to the population ; the peculiar manners, 
customs, language, government, and domestic economy of the 
various tribes of people through which you will probably have 
to pass. 

The following, however, will be among the most important 
subjects on which it will be more immediately your province, 
assisted by your officers, to endeavour to obtain information. 

The general nature of the climate as to heat, cold, moisture, 
winds, rains, and periodical seasons. The temperature regu- 
larly registered from Fahrenheit's thermometer, as observed at 
two or three periods of the day. 

The direction of the mountains, their names, general ap- 
pearance as to shape, whether detached or continuous in ranges. 

The main branches of rivers, their names, direction, velo- 
city, breadth, and depth. 

The animals, whether birds, beasts, or fishes, insects, rep- 
tiles, &c. distinguishing those animals that are wild, from those 
that are domesticated. 

The vegetables, and particularly those that are applicable to 
any useful purposes, whether in medicine, dying, carpentry, 
&c. scented or ornamented woods adapted for cabinet work, 
and household furniture ; and more particularly such woods as 
may appear to be useful in ship building ; hard woods fit for 
treenails, block sheaves, &c. of all which it would be desirable 
to procure small specimens labelled and numbered, so that an 
easy reference may be made to their mention in the journal ; 
to ascertain the quantities in which they are found, the facility. 



INTRODUCTION. XXXvii 

or otherwise, of floating them down to a convenient place for 
shipment, &lc. 

Minerals, any of the precious metals or stones ; how used, 
and how valued, by the natives. 

The description and characteristic difference of the several 
tribes of people. 

The occupations and means of subsistence, whether chiefly, 
or to what extent, by tishinaj, hunting, feeding sheep or other 
animals ; by agriculture or by commerce. 

The principal objects of their several pursuits as mentioned 
in the preceding paragraph. 

A circumstantial account of such articles, if any, as might 
be advantageously imported into Great Britain, or her colonies, 
and those which would be required by the natives in exchange 
for them. 

The state of the arts or manufactures, and their comparative 
perfection in difl"erent tribes. 

A vocabulary of the language spoken by every tribe, through 
which you may pass, using in the compilation of each, the 
same English words ; for tliis purpose you will receive herewitli 
some copies of printed vocabularies, to fill up, accompanied 
with the copy of a letter on this subject from Mr. Marsden, 
which is well deserving your attention. 

The condition of the people, as far as can be ascertained : 
what protection the chief, or the laws afl'ord them ; what is the 
state of slavery among them : whether wars are carried on for 
the purpose of making slaves : how their prisoners are treated : 
how disposed of; and every possible information that can be 
collected, as to the manner and extent to which the slave-trade 
is conducted with Europeans : who those Europeans are ; where 
residing : how their agents are employed ; what the articles of 
barter are ; in what manner the slaves are brought down to the 
coast, Lc. The detailed questions furnished by the African 
Institution, and which accompany this memorandum, will mate- 
rially assist your inquiries into this interesting subject, and other 
matters connected with the state of society and the condition of 
the people. 

The genius and disposition of the people, as to talent, mental 
and bodily energy, habits of industry or idleness, love, hatred, 
hospitality, kc. The nature of their amusements, their dis- 
eases, and remedies, &:c. 

Their religion, and objects of worship, their religious cere- 
monies ; and the influence of religion on their moral character 
and conduct. 

A description of the manners, appearance, and condition of 
any Mahomedans, that may be found in any of the tribes in 
southern Africa. 



XXXviii INTRODUCTION- 

What written or traditionary records may exist among the 
latter ; any fac-similes of their written character, or copies of 
any drawings or paintings, they may have attempted, would be 
desirable. 

The several objects hitherto mentioned, which it would be 
desirable to accomplish are such as relate more immediately to 
your province as commander of the expedition, and to the offi- 
cers under your orders, in obtaining which, however, their 
Lordships cannot doubt you will meet Avith the wiUing assistance 
and co-operation of those gentlemen who have been engaged 
to accompany you, for the purpose of scientific research* 
These are, 

Mr. Professor Smith, Botanist and Geologist; 
Mr. Tudor, Comparative Anatomist ; 
Mr. Cranch, Collector of Objects of JVatural History ; 
each of whom has specific instructions for his guidance, of 
which it may be necessary to furnish you with a general out- 
line, in order that you may the better be able to afford such 
opportunities^ and such facilities to all and each of them, as 
may tend to promote the several objects, which their Lordships 
have in view. 

Professor Smith, Botanist and Geologist, is directed by his 
instructions to collect tpgether as many specimens of plants, 
growing on the banks of the river, as time and opportunities 
will enable him to do ; and these specimens, it can hardly be 
doubted, will be very numerous, as the country has never yet 
been explored by botanists, nor have the parallels of latitude, 
through which the river passes, been yet investigated in any 
part of the world, with the exception of South America, and 
these only partially explored. And in order to enable him to 
execute his laborious duties, a Gardener, from His Majesty's 
Botanical Garden at Kew, has been assigned to assist the Pro- 
fessor in drying and preserving, as well as in collecting speci- 
mens, to afford him more time to note down the prominent 
characters of the most remarkable plants, which may fall within 
his reach. 

He is also directed to collect the seeds of all new plants, which 
may offer themselves for the use of the Royal Gardens at Kew ; 
and the supply of these has been limited to two packages of 
each kind, sewed up, with a view to keep the stock entire, 
without breaking into it on any consideration ; so that the whole 
Gollection may be deUvered, so sewed up, to the Director of 
the Royal Botanical Gardens, as soon as possible after the re- 
turn of the expedition to England. 

The Professor is further directed to preserve the fructifica- 
tions of the more delicate plants in spirits, sewed up in small 



INTRODUCTION. xxxix 

bags of muslin. It has been thought right to apprize you ol 
the nature of these collections, in order that, in the arrange- 
ment and distribution of the stores, provisions, &c., on board 
the Congo, a sufficient space may be allotted for their stowage. 

He will also have occasion to examine into the geology and 
geognosy of the country, through which the river shall be 
found to pass, and to collect specimens of such stones and 
minerals as may occur ; and as he is directed to keep a journal, 
in which will be recorded such remarks as he may think worthy, 
on the localities, the particularities, and the distinguishing 
characters and uses to which plants or minerals are applied, you 
will afford him such assistance with regard to the latitude and 
longitude of particular places, as he may require, in order that 
no information may be wanting, on points generally interesting 
to science. 

And as the parts of fructification of trees, in warm climates, 
are seldom accessible to botanists, on account of the labour of 
felling them, and consequently the aborescent plants of these 
climates are least of all known, you will allow one or two of 
the carpenters to accompany the Professor and Gardener, to 
enable them, by felling trees of a moderate size, to get at the 
flowers and fruits of those species of which it may be deemed 
adviseable to collect and preserve specimens. 

Though Mr. Smith modestly declines to take upon himself the 
office of Professional Geologist, yet, having examined the Ca-^ 
nary Islands, in company with his friend the Baron Von Buch, 
who eminently excels in that interesting science, there can be 
no doubt of his sufficient proficiency in that branch of physical 
knowledge, to enable him to collect such specimens as may be 
useful to elucidate the geology of those parts of southern 
Africa, through which you may have to pass. 

To enable you, however, and any of the gentlemen who ac^ 
company you, to form a competent knowledge of what may bo 
desirable to bring home from the mineral kingdom, a few gene- 
ral directions may be of use. 

The objects of the most value, are the metallic ores, fossil 
bones, teeth, shells, impressions of plants and fishes ; those of 
least esteem, spar, crystal, pyrites, pieces of loose stone or 
£:ravel, unless where the last is supposed to contain metallic 
matter. 

The most common substances, (such as flint, chalk, sandstone, 
coal, clay, limestone, basalt, slate, granite) will be interesting, 
if labelled on the spot, and kept clean, in separate papers, and 
not sufl'ered to rub against each other ; the label to express the 
name and situation of the rock or mountain, from which the 
specimen was detached. The size of a common watch is suffi- 



xl INTRODUCTI ON. 

ciently large lor each specimen ; shape is of irttle consequence : 
that of a cube spHt in two is perhaps the most convenient. 

Specimens of rock are always desirable, with the native 
names for each, where they can be obtained ; and the uses to 
which they are applied. 

Fossil bones and shells, of whatever size, should be brought 
away entire ; if an entire skeleton be found it should be 
brought away ; and it is essential to note down whether such 
bones were found in loose soil, in solid rock, or in caverns. 

It will be interesting to ascertain what mines, quarries, or 
caverns exist, where the different metals, coal, salt, slate, 
limestone, &c. are found, and if worked, in what manner. 

It will be desirable to note down the distance of the moun- 
tains or hills on both sides of the Congo, their height, from 
conjecture, when no means offer for their measurement, their 
form, which of the sides are steepest, how their strata are dis- 
posed, how much they dip, and in what direction ; whether 
they disappear by dipping under the soil, or by the intersection 
of valleys. 

It will also be desirable to note down all the places where two 
rocks of a different nature may be seen in contact, and to what 
extent each may be traced. 

And for your further assistance in this interesting subject, a 
printed copy of geological inquiries, published by the Geologi- 
cal Society, accompanies these instructions. 

Mr. Tudor, the Comparative Anatomist, is directed by his 
instructions, to examine the structure and habits of all new and 
uncommon animals, and it will therefore be desirable that he 
should always accompany the collector of objects of natural 
history, when detached, either on the river or on shore. 

One portion of his collection, consisting of the internal parts 
of animals, and of the smaller animals in an entire state, will 
be required to be preserved in spirits, but of these he is not to 
preserve more than triplicates of each specimen. 

The external parts of animals, as their skulls, skins, feet, &c. 
he is directed to preserve in a dry state, and the specimens of 
each, as before, not to exceed three in number. 

Any preparations he may have made at the time of the de- 
parture of the transport from the Zaire, you are to send home, 
along with a copy of his journal, in that transport. 

Mr. Cranch, Collector of objects of natural history, by his 
instructions, is directed to commence his operations on the 
voyage outwards ; to fish up out of the sea, by a dipping net 
from the chains, and by such other means as may be most likely 
to succeed, whatever sea-weeds or animals may float alongside, 
particularly of the class of mollusca, which he is directed t© 



INTRODUCTION. ^Ji 

preserve in spirit, and to send home by the transport on her re- 
turn from the Zaire. 

On the pro2;res3 of the expedition up the Zaire, he is in- 
structed to collect all unknown fisiies, shells, and Crustacea, 
insets and reptiles, birds, beasts, amphibia, and in short, 
whatever may occur in the animal kingdom, which he is to pre- 
serve with all possible care, by puttins; the tender animals into 
spirit, and preservinc; the larsjer ones dry, such as the siftns of 
animals, insects, shells, fishes, and other bulky articles, which, 
when Avell dried, he is to pack in casks or boxes, so as to se- 
cure them agjiinst the attack of ants or other insects, with the 
greatest care. In framing such chests or boxes, as well for his 
collection, as for those of the comparative anatomist, the car- 
penters of the Con^o will be required to give all possible as- 
sistance. 

Of the number of specimens of each kind to be preserved, 
it has been thounht necessary to limit him generally to three, 
lest the stock should occupy more room than could with pro- 
priety be allowed in the vessel. If, however, it should be found, 
on approaching the utmost limit of the voyage, or on the return, 
that sufficient room still remains, he, as well as the others, may 
all be permitted to extend the number of their specimens beyond 
that prescribed by their instructions. 

The proper times of Tlis going on shore for the purpose of 
collecting, will of course be regulated by your orders, and be 
such as not to interfere with the general convenience of the 
expedition 

But whenever you shall have occasion to stop for the purpose 
of cutting fuel, purchasing provisions, or holding commimica- 
tions with the natives, or from any other cause, you will afford 
the several gentlemen in the scientific department the means 
of going on shore, where it can be done with safety, to give 
them the opportunity of enriching their collections ; and in 
gencnd, whenever any thing occurs to make a landing on any 
particular spot very desirable, you will, of course, pay atten- 
tion to my representation that may be made to you for that pur- 
pose, by any of the abovementioned gentlemen. 

And as they are required by their instructions to keep, each 
of them, a regular journal, in which every thing remarkable 
relating to the natural history of the objects on which they are 
respectively engaged is to be entered, it is particularly desira- 
ble that they should be able to mark down with precision that 
spot on which any thing remarkable may be found ; you will 
therefore supply them, on their application to you, with the 
latitude and longitude of the place where any such rare object 
may have been rliscovered. 



xlii INTRODUCTION. 

And as all of them have been given to understand that their 
journals are, in the first place, to be transmitted to the Admi- 
ralty, you are to call upon them, whenever an opportunity 
may occur, to send, along with your own, a copy or an abstract 
of these journals, according as you may deem the occasion that 
offers for a conveyance to be safe or a doubtful one : and to pre- 
vent, as far as possible, your and their labours from being lost to 
the woild, it is strongly recommended, that triplicates at least 
be kept of all the journals, and that each person carry about 
with him a brief abstract of his observations, in order that, in 
the event of any accident befalling his journals, he may still 
preserve the abstract to refresh his memory. 

Finally, in all your proceedings, you are to be particularly 
mindful of the health of the oflB-cers and men placed under your 
orders ; to this end it will be adviseable to avoid, as much as 
possible, passing the night in the neighbourhood of the man- 
grove swamps, which are said to abound on the banks of the 
lower part of the river ; j^ou will prevent, as far as may be 
practicable, their exposure to the sun in the middle part of the 
day, as well as to heavy rains, and never permit them to sleep 
at night in the open air, but under an awning to protect them 
from the dews, which are always destructive of health in a tro- 
pical climate. 

You are to spare the people as mucfi as possible, from long 
and severe exertion, and make use of the sails instead of sweeps 
or oars, whenever it can be done ; considering a moderate rate 
of progress up the river with the former, as preferable to a 
rapid one, at the expense of the health of the men by the latter ; 
bearing in mind, that a moderate progress will afford better op- 
portunities of acquiring knowledge in all departments of physi- 
cal science, than a rapid one. But in the proper execution of 
all these matters, and the other important duties committed to 
your superintendence, my Lords Commissioners of the Admi- 
ralty rely on your judgment, discretion, and zeal; not doubt- 
ing that you will use your best endeavours to execute all and 
every part of this interesting and important mission, in such a 
manner as will afford full satisfaction to the public, as well as to 
their Lordships. 

By cow.mand of their Lordships , 

{Signed) John Barrow. 

It may not, perhaps, be too much to say, that 
there never was in this or any other country, an 
expedition of discovery sent out with better pros- 



. INTRODUCTION. xliii 

pects or more flattering hopes of success, than the 
one in question ; whether it be considered as to 
the talents and zeal of the persons selected to car- 
ry the objects of the voyage into execution, or the 
preparations that were made for rendering the 
means of executing it efficient, and for the health 
and comfort of those who had embarked in it. 
Yet, by a fatality that is almost inexplicable, never 
were the results of an expedition more melancholy 
and disastrous. Captain Tuckey, Lieutenant Haw- 
key, Mr. Eyro, and ten of the Congo's crew. Pro- 
fessor Smith, Mr. Cranch, Mr. Tudor, and Mr. 
Galwey, in all eighteen persons, died in the short 
space of less than three months which they re- 
mained in the river, or Avithin a few days after 
leaving the river. Fourteen of the abovemention- 
ed were of the party of thirty who set out on the 
land journey beyond the cataracts: the other four 
were attacked on board the Congo; two died ia 
the passage out, and the sergeant of marines at 
the hospital at Bahia, making the total number of 
deaths amount to twenty-one. . 

This great mortality is the more extraordinary, 
as it appears from Captain Tuckey's journal that 
nothing could be finer than the climate, the ther- 
mometer never descending lower than 60° of Fah- 
renheit during the night, and seldom exceeding 
76° in the day-time ; the atmosphere remarkably 
dry; scarcely a shower falling during the whole of 
the journey; and the sun sometimes for three or 
four days not showing himself sufficiently clear to 
enable them to get an observation. 

It appears indeed from the report of Mr. M'Ker- 
row, the assistant surgeon of tlie Congo, that though 
the greater number were carried ofT by a most 



xliv INTRODUCTION. • 

violent fever of the remittant type, some of them 
appeared to have no other ailment than that which 
had been caused bj extreme fatigue, and actually 
to have died from exhaustion. The greater num- 
ber howevfer of the whole crew caught the fever, 
and some of them died of it who had been left on 
board the Congo below the cataracts ; " but these," 
as he observes, " were permitted to* go on shore 
on liberty, where the day was passed in running 
about the country from one village to another, and 
during the night lying in huts or the.open air; and 
though the dews were scarcely sensible at this sea- 
son, the fall of the thermometer was very conside- 
rable, say 1 5° or 20^ below that of the day. Spi- 
rituous liquors were not to be obtained, but ex- 
cesses of another kind were freely indulged in, to 
which they were at all times prompted by the na- 
tive blacks, who were always ready to give up 
their sisters, daughters, or even their wives, for the 
hope only of getting in return a small quantity of 
spirits." Perhaps too, the river water may have 
had its baneful effects, mixed as it is with foreign 
matter arising from the perpetual decomposition 
of animal and vegetable substances, by the dead 
carcasses of alligators, hippopotami, lizards, &c. 
and by the decayed mangroves which for fifty 
miles occupj the alluvial banks of the river, and 
which, after their disappearance, are covered with 
the Cyperus papyrus of the height of twelve feet. 
Beyond these the Congo was moored, where the 
river was closed in by lofty hills, and over these 
woody shores the sea-breezes had to pass. Mr. 
M'Kei:row seems to think, however, that fatigue 
and exposure to the sun, together with considera- 
ble atmospherical vicissitudes, were the principal 
exciting causes of the disease which attacked the 
marching party, and pro^i^ably those also left in the 



INTRODUCTION. xlv 

lower part of the river. Yet Captain Tuckey. so 
far from complaining of the heat of the sun- ob- 
serves, as beforementioned, that they scarcely 
ever got a sight of it; and in a private letter dated 
from Yellala, the 20th August, after an excursion 
of several days, he writes, '•'• the climate is so good 
and the nights so pleasant, that we feel no incon- 
venience'from our bivouac in the open air." The 
fever appeared moreover in some degree contagi- 
ous, as all the attendants on the sick were attack- 
ed, so that before they got out of the river it had 
pervaded nearly the whole crew, and extended to 
that of the transport ; Mr. M^Kerrow was himself 
last of all attacked after leaving the coast, but he 
considered mental anxiety and disturbed rest as 
the sole causes. From the general symptoms that 
showed themselves in most of the cases, the fiever 
would seem to be closely allied to the yellow fever 
of the West Indies, as indicated by " the violent 
affection of the head, the suffused eye, oppression 
at the prrecordia, great prostration and anxious 
timidity at the commencement, the yellow sulllision 
and grumous vomiting, with the indifference and 
apparent resignation, at the latter stage of the 
disease." The most prominent features of the 
disease are thus described by Mr. M^Kerrow. 

" The fever, as I observed it in those who were 
attacked on board, was generally ushered in by 
cold rigours, succeeded by severe headach, chiefly 
confined to the temples and across the forehead, in 
some cases, pain of the back and lower extremi- 
ties, great oppression at the praecordia, and bilious 
vomiting, which in many cases proved extremely 
distressing; but in general, where the headach 
was very severe, the gastric symptoms were milder, 
and vice vcrsa^ though in some, both existed in a 
violent degree. Great anxiety and prostration of 



Xlvi INTRODUCTION. 

strength, the eyes in general watery, though in 
some the tunica conjunctiva was of a pearly lustre : 
the tongue at first white and smooth, having a tre- 
mulous motion when put out, and shortly becoming 
yellowish or brown, and in the last stage covered 
with a black crust ; in some cases the face was flush* 
ed, though frequently pale, and the features rather 
shrunk. The skin in some cases dry and* pungent, 
with a hard and frequent pulse ; in others the pulse 
below the natural standard, with a clammy perspi- 
ration on the surface. In several a yellow suffu- 
sion took place from the third to the sixth or se- 
venth day, in one case livid blotches appear- 
ed on the wrists and ankles. The delirium 
was most commonly of the low kind, with great 
aversion from medicine. Singultus, a common and 
distressing symptom. The fatal termination in 
some, happened as early as the third or fourth, but 
in others, was protracted even to the twentieth 
day. With regard to the treatment, I shall here 
only observe, that bleeding was particularly unsuc- 
cessful. Cathartics were of the greatest utility ; 
and calomei, so administered as speedily to induce 
copious salivation, generally procured a remission 
of all the violent symptoms ; when I found it imme- 
diately necessary to give bark and wine." 

From the accounts of the missions to Congo by 
Carli, Merolla, and others, it would appear, that 
bleeding copiously is the common remedy practis- 
ed by the negroes, in the fevers of the cofintry 
which are brought on by fatigue, and exposure to 
the weather. Carli mentions his having been bled 
no less than ninety-seven times, besides frequent 
and copious discharges of blood from the nose ; 
and from the loss of such enormous quantities, he 
suffers himself to be persuaded, that all the water 



INTRODUCTION. xlvii 

lie drank was turned into blood. Of the fourteen 
missionaries, who proceeded to the court of Zing- 
ha, Queen of Matamba, every one was seized with 
the fever, in consequence of the fatigue of travel- 
ling, and the toil of baptizing the people, and the 
whole were recovered in the course of four months, 
by having almost all their blood drawn out of their 
bodies, and frequent purgatives administered to 
them, similar, in their violent effects, to those which 
in Europe are given to horses ; however it is pos- 
sible that the fever contracted by these pious men 
may have been of a very different type from that 
which attacked the expedition up the Zaire. 

As a close to this melancholy recital, the editor 
hopes he may stand excused in putting on record 
a few brief sketches, which he has been able to 
collect, of the professional and literary history of 
those valuable men, who may be said to have 
fallen the victim^ of a too ardent zeal in the pur- 
suit of science, which, how much soever we may 
lament, leaves nothing for us to censure. 

James Kingston Tuckey was the youngest son of 
Thomas Tuckey, Esq. of Greenhill, near Mallow, 
in the county of Cork, by Elizabeth, daughter of 
the Rev. James Kingston, rector of Donoughmore, 
and sister of the present vicar-general of the dio- 
cess of Cloyne. He was born in August, 1776; 
and his parents dying during his infancy, he was 
left under the care of his maternal grandmother, 
who placed him in the first grammar school in 
Cork; here he soon distinguished himself by an 
ardent and inquisitive mind, and was making con- 
siderable progress in his studies, when his incli- 
nation took a turn for the sea service, from which 
it could not be diverted. His thirst aftt^r know- 



Xlvlii INTRODUCTION. 

ledge was ardent, but his mind was romantic in 
the extreme. With an eagerness natural to youth, 
he panted after a Hfe of adventure : and the course 
of his voluntary reading being directed to the pe- 
rusal of voyages of discovery, and nautical re- 
search, he quickly imbibed a predilection for the 
naval profession ; a predilection whose growth, 
fortunately for the British navy, when once it has 
taken root, is not easily checked. The period 
when Mr. Tuckey fixed his choice of a profession 
being that of profound peace, and no opportunity 
being afforded for entering the navy, he was allow- 
ed by his friends to undertake a voyage, on trial, 
to the West Indies in 1791 ; after which he ven- 
tured upon a second to the bay of Honduras, in 
which he caught a fever, that had nearly deprived 
him of life. 

On the breaking out of the revolutionary war, 
soon after his return, he was received on board 
the Suffolk, commanded by Captain Rainier, at 
the recommendation of Captain, afterwards Sir 
Francis Hartwell, a relation by the father's side. 
In that ship he proceeded to India, and was soon 
rated master's mate ; he was present at the cap- 
ture of Trincomallee from the Dutch, and re- 
ceived a slight wound in his left arm, from the 
splinter of a shell, while serving in the batteries ; 
he assisted at the surrender of Amboyna, " fa- 
mous," as he observes in a letter to his friends, 
^' for Dutch cruelty, and English forbearance." 
On this occasion, a fate more general, though less 
horrible in ils complexion, was about to be in- 
flicted on the Dutch, by the native chiefs, had not 
the English undertaken their defence and protec- 
tion. To assist in this humane purpose, Mr. 
Tuckey was stationed in a brig to cruise off the 



INTRODUCTION. xlix 

island ; and on firing a gun at a party in arms 
assembled on the beach, it burst, and a piece 
striking him on the wrist, broke his right arm. 
Having no surgeon on board, (he writes) " I Avas 
obliged to officiate for myself, and set it in a truly 
sailor-like fashion, so that in a week after it was 
again obliged to be broken, by the advice of the 
surgeon." Mr. Tuckey never completely recover- 
ed the use of this arm. 

From the intense heat and the suffocating smell 
of an active volcano, to which they were exposed 
in Amboyna Roads for ten months, where they 
experienced the evils of famine and sickness in 
addition to that of rebellion, they were glad to 
escape to Macao, where, in the month of January, 
they found the weather so intolerably cold as se- 
veral times to have snow. From hence they pro- 
ceeded to Ceylon ; and when at Colombo, on the 
I5th January, 1798, a serious mutiny broke out on 
board the Suffolk, then bearing the flag of Rear 
Admiral Rainier, in the quelling of which Mr. 
Tuckey exerted himself with so much success, 
that though wanting eighteen months for the com- 
pletion of his servitude to qualify him for a lieute- 
nant's commission, the Rear Admiral appointed 
him, the following day, acting lieutenant of that 
ship : from her he was removed to the Fox frigate ; 
and when belonging to that frigate, but being at 
Madras in a prize, intelligence was there received 
that La Forte, a French frigate, was cruising in 
the bay of Bengal. His Majesty's ship La Sybille 
immediately prepared for sea, and Mr. Tuckey, 
with a small party of seamen belonging to the 
Fox, volunteered their services in her. In the 
night of the 28th February they fell in with their 
opponent, and after a most brilliant action of tvvo 



1 INTRODUCTION. 

hours, frequently within pistol shot of each other. 
La Forte having lost all her masts and howsprit, 
struck to the Sybille. In this action Lieutenant 
Tuckej commanded on the forecastle. Captain 
Cooke was mortally wounded, and Lieutenant 
Hardyman, who succeeded to the command, ob- 
serves, " the scene which presented itself on La 
Forte's deck was shocking ; the number she had 
killed cannot be accurately ascertained, as many 
had been thrown overboard during the action, but 
from every calculation I have been able to make, 
the number killed must be from 150 to 160 men. 
and 70 wounded ; the first and second captain, the 
first lieutenant, with several other officers, are in- 
cluded among the number killed. The Sybille 
had only 3 men killed and 19 wounded, two of 
whom afterwards died.'' 

La Forte was the largest frigate in the French 
navy; she mounted 52 guns, 24 and 12 pounders, 
and had 420 men. The Sybille mounted 44 guns. 
18 and 12 pounders, and had 370 men. In an ac- 
tion with a ship of such superior force, in which 
so dreadful a slaughter was sustained on the part 
of the enemy, the vast disparity in the number of 
killed and wounded affords a striking instance of 
the great advantage which English coolness pos- 
sesses over the momentary ardour of French im- 
petuosity, and, at the same time, shows what may 
be effected by good seamanship and good gunnery. 
After this action Mr. Tuckey returned to the Suf- 
folk, and received from the Admiral a new acting 
commission for his meritorious conduct. 

In August, 1799, he was sent by the Admiral, in 
the Braave, with despatches for Admiral Blankett, 
then commanding a squadron in the Red Sea. At 



INTRODUCTION. 1, 

the Seychelles islands they captured a ship pro- 
ceeding to Europe with an embassy from Tippoo 
Sultaun to Ihe French Directory. The ambassa- 
dors concealed themselves several days in the 
woods, w here they were discovered by Mr. Tuckey, 
for which he received a French general's sword as 
the only share for this capture, he being only a 
passenger in the Braave. On his arrival in the 
Red Sea, Admiral Blankett had quitted it for In- 
dia; and he rejoined his old ship, the Fox, which 
was left to guard the straits of Babelmandeb. On 
the return of the Admiral in 1800, he intended to 
visit Sir Sidney Smith at Cairo, on the supposition 
of the French having evacuated Egypt, under 
sanction of a convention* with that officer; and in 
that idea, sent Mr. Tuckey in the Fox to Suez, to 
proceed over-land from thence with letters for Sir 
Sidney ; but on his arrival at Suez, he found it in 
possession of the French, in consequence of Lord 
Keith's refusal to permit their embarkation. He 
therefore returned to Bombay. The excessive 
heat of the Red Sea seems to have laid the foun- 
dation of a complaint w hich never left him. He 
writes from Bombay, " it may surprise you to hear 
me complain of heat, after six years broiling be- 
tween the tropics ; but the hottest day I ever felt, 
either in the East or the West Indies, w^as winter 
to the coolest one we had in the Red Sea. The 
whole coast of ' Araby the Blest,' from Babelman- 
deb to Suez, for forty miles inland, is an arid sand, 
producing not a single blade of grass, nor aflbrd- 
ing one drop of fresh water; that which we drank 
for nine months, on being analyzed, was found to 
contain a very considerable portion of sea salt. 
In the Red Sea the thermometer at midnight was 
never lower than 94°, at sunrise 101°, and at noon 
1 1 2°. In India the medium is 82°, the highest 94°." 



lii INTRODUCTION. 

Towards the latter end of the same year he 
again proceeded with the expedition to the Red 
Sea, contrary to the advice of the faculty, and ar- 
rived at Juddah in Januar}^, 1801 ; but in the 
course of a month his complaint of the liver re- 
turned, and his health suffered so many severe 
shocks that he was reduced to a skeleton, and 
obliged to make his way back to India, where the 
physician of the fleet advised him to return home, 
as the only means of his accomplishing his recove- 
ry; and the Admiral intrusted him with his de~ 
spatches. 

His native climate had the desired effect ; and 
immediately on the re-establishment of his health 
he applied to the Admiralty for active employment ; 
accordingly in 1802 he was appointed First Lieu- 
tenant of His Majesty's ship Calcutta, in which 
situation he served during the whole of her long 
and arduous voyage, the object of which was to 
form a new establishment in New South Wales. 
Here Lieut. Tuckey had an opportunity of render- 
ing very essential service, which was strongly ac- 
knowledged by the Lieutenant-Governor, Colonel 
Collins, who transmitted to the First Lord of the 
Admiralty a most flattering testimony of his merits; 
and in particular for a complete survey he had 
made of the harbour of Port Philip, and for his ex- 
amination of the adjacent coast and surrounding 
country. He was also furnished by the Lieutenant 
Governor with letters of recommendation to Sir 
Joseph Banks. He reached England in 1804, and 
published an account of the voyage. 

But the favourable testimonies he had received 
were rendered abortive by the capture of the Cal- 
cutta in 1805, on her homeward voyage from St. 



INTRODUCTION. liil 

Helena (whither she had been sent to bring home 
some ships under her convoy) and by an imprison- 
ment of nearly nine years in France. For the 
preservation of a valuable convoy intrusted to his 
charge, Captain Wood riff, with a conduct which, 
as truly stated by the Members of" the Court-mar- 
tial, was, " that of an experienced, brave and me- 
ritorious officer," determined to sacrifice the Cal- 
cutta to the safety of his convoy, by. first ma- 
noeuvring so as to draw the attention of the enemy 
to one point; and, with this view, he offered en- 
gagement to the whole squadron of the enemy 
from Rochefort, one of which was a three-decker, 
and four others of the line. After a sort of run- 
ning fight with TArmide, the JVIagnanime came up, 
and this ship of the line he engaged for fifty mi- 
nutes, frequently within pistol-shot. By this time 
the Calcutta was unrigged and unmanageable, and 
had six of her crew killed and six wounded ; and 
the frigate Thetis coming up close under her stern, 
Captain Woodriff was under the painful necessity of 
striking his colours ; but the whole of his valuable 
convoy effected their escape. Captain Woodriff, 
after an imprisonment of eighteen months, was ex- 
changed for a French officer of equal rank, but 
Lieutenant Tuckey was kept till the termination 
of the war. The Court-martial held for the loss of 
the ship "most honourably acquitted Captain 
Woodriff, his officers and ship's company ;" and on 
this occasion the Captain delivered a paper to the 
court, which was as follows : " I cannot, Mr. Presi- 
dent and Members of this Honourable Court, omit 
to express to you, how much I regret that the cap- 
tivity of Lieutenant Tuckey, late first of His Majes- 
ty's ship Calcutta, should be a bar to the promo- 
tion he so highly merits ; his courage, cool intre- 
pidity, and superior abilities as a seaman and an 



liv INTRODUCTION. 

officer, entitle him to my warmest gratitude, and 
render him most worthy of the attention of the 
Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the 
Admiralty." 

Lieutenant Tuckey was one of about forty lieu- 
tenants of the navy, who had cause to execrate the 
brutal inhumanity of the man, who for so many 
years tyrannized over France, and the greater 
part of the continent of Europe ; those who had 
the misfortune of falling into his clutches, felt 
themselves at once cut off from every hope of ad- 
vancement in their profession, and many fell the 
victims of despair. Not so. however, with Lieu- 
tenant Tuckey. He still kept up his spirits, and 
encouraged hope, being, as he expressed himself^ 
on another occasion, '' by no means addicted to 
contemplate the dark side of events ; but as cheer- 
ful and happy as the possession of health, ease, 
and a satisfied disposition can make me." He 
married in 1806, a fellow prisoner, Miss Margaret 
Stuart, daughter of the commander of a ship in 
the East India Company's service, at Bengal. She 
also had been taken by the Rochefort squadron, 
on her passage in a packet to join her father in 
India. 

Various applications were made at different 
times, for the exchange of Mr. Tuckey ; but they 
proved fruitless, and he was doomed to remain a 
prisoner during the war : sad consequence of that 
implacable spirit of hatred which actuated the 
ruler of France, and made him careless alike of 
the lives of his own, and of his enemy's prisoners ! 
How many fair prospects were blighted and de- 
stroyed by the unfeeling obstinacy of this disturber 
of Europe ! 



iiXTRODUCTrON. Iv 

In 1810, after considerable difficulties, and re- 
peated refusals, Mr. Tuckey obtained permission 
tor his wife to visit England, for the purpose of 
looking after his private affiiirs. Her object being- 
accomplished, she obtained passports from the 
French government to return to her husband, and 
was landed at Morlaix ; but counter-orders had 
been received at this port, and she wns detained; 
and after many unsuccessful memorials, praying to 
be allowed to rejoin Mr. Tuckey at Verdun, and 
after a detention of six weeks, she was sent back 
to England. We have here another instance, in 
addition to the many on record, of the capricious 
cruelty of Buonaparte, wliich was equally exercis- 
ed on either sex : and let it not be said hy his advo- 
cates — strange, that such a man should find advo- 
cates, especially among Englishmen — tliathe knew 
nothing of such counter-orders. So it was said, 
with equal truth, in regard to the detention of 
Captain Flinders ; for it is well known that, in all 
matters relating to the British prisoners, his mini- 
sters stirred not a step without his special direc- 
tions. 

On the advance of the allied armies into France, 
in 1814, the British prisoners were ordered at a 
moment's warning into the interior ; and Mr. Tuc- 
key, with his two little boys, was obliged to travel, 
in the most inclement weather he ever experi- 
enced, to Blois. His youngest son was taken ill 
on the . journey and fell a victim to fatigue and 
sickness. "I had, indeed," says the father, "a 
hard trial with my little boy, for after attending 
him day and night for three weeks, (he had no" 
mother, no servant, no friend, but me to watch 
over him,) I received his last breath, and then had 
not only to direct his interment, but also to follow 



Ivi INTRODUCTION. 

him to the gr'ave, and recommend his innocent 
soul to his God ; this was indeed a severe trial, 
but it was a duty, and I did not shrink from it." 
Another severe trial was reserved for him, on his 
return to his family in England, on the final dis- 
comfiture of Buonaparte ; he had the misfortune 
to lose a fine child, a girl, of seven years of age, 
in consequence of her clothes taking fire, after 
lingering several days in excruciating agony. 

During his long imprisonment in France, Mr, 
Tuckey suffered considerably from tedious and 
harassing illness, aggravated by the cruel reflec- 
tion, that the prime of his life was rapidly passing 
away, without the possibility of any exertion of his 
talents being employed for the benefit of himself, 
or his growing family. In the intervals of sick- 
ness, besides the education of his children, which 
was to him a source of pleasure and constant em- 
ployment, his chief amusements were reading and 
composition. Severe as his fate was, he possessed 
a mind of too vigorous and active a turn to allow 
his spirits to sink under his unmerited misfortunes ; 
the painful moments of his long imprisonment 
found some relief, in the laborious compilation and 
composition of a professional work, " undertaken 
to pass away the tedious hours of a hopeless cap- 
tivity, alike destructive of present happiness, and 
future prospects." This work was published in 
England, shortly after his return, in four octavo 
volumes, under the title of " Maritime Geography, 
and Statistics." It takes a comprehensive view 
of the various phenomena of the ocean, the de* 
scription of coasts and islands, and of the seas 
that wash them ; the remarkable headlands, har- 
bours, and port towns ; the several rivers that 
reach the sea. and the nature and extent of their 



INTRODUCTION. Ivii 

inland navigations that communicate with tlie 
coasts. The information thus collected is drawn 
from the latest and best authorities: to w^liich is 
added his own '• local and professional knowledge ; 
acquired in the navigntion of the seas that wash 
the four quarters of the globe." A brief view is 
also taken of the history and state of the foreign 
and coasting trade of the colonies; the state of 
the home and foreign fisheries ; of the national 
and mercantile marine; and generally of all ma- 
ritime establishments and regulations. It is a 
work of useful reference, and one that may safely 
be recommended for general information. 

In August, 1814, Mr. Tuckey was promoted by 
Lord Melville to the rank of commander; and in 
the following year, on hearing of the intention of 
Government to send an expedition to explore the 
river Zaire, he made an application, with several 
other officers, to be appointed to that service; his 
claims and his abilities were unquestionable ; he 
had stored his mind with so much various know- 
ledge, and, for the Inst nine years, had given so 
much attention to the subject of nautical discovery 
and river navigation, that he was considered as 
most eligible for the undertaking; but his health 
appeared delicate : he was, however, so confident 
that his constitution would improve by the voyage, 
and in a w^arm climate, and urged his wishes so 
strongly, that the Lords of the Admiralty confer- 
red on him the appointment. How far his ze. 1 
and qualifications were suited to the undertaking, 
his Journal will furnish the best proof. That do- 
cument is now given to the public, just as it came 
from the hands of its author. Not a sentence has 
been added or suppressed, nor has the least altera- 
tion been made therein, beyond the correction 



Iviii INTRODUCTION. 

perhaps of some trifling error in grammar or or- 
thography. The information it contains must have 
been procured under very unfavourable circum- 
stances. Had he been permitted to penetrate 
further into the interior, or to return at leisure, and 
in health, from the farthest point even to which he 
ascended, his account of the country would have 
been so much the more complete ; but his zeal to 
accomplish the object of the expedition had com- 
pletely exhausted him, and brought on the return 
of a disorder to which he had long been subject ; 
still he held out to the last; and there is very little 
doubt, that if the accident which happened to his 
baggage canoe had not put an end to every possi- 
bility of his proceeding much farther up the river, 
that he would have gone on till he had sunk under 
sickness and fatigue, and left his remains in the in- 
terior of the country. 

On the 17th September he reached the Congo 
sloop, and the following day, for the sake of bet- 
ter accommodation, was sent down to the Dorothy 
transport, at the Tall Trees. He arrived in a state 
of extreme exhaustion, brought on by fatigue, ex- 
posure to the w eather, and privations. He had no 
fever nor pain in any part of the body; the pulse 
was small and irritable ; the skin at times dry, at 
others clammy, but never exceeding the tempera- 
ture of health. On the 28th he thought himself 
better, and wholly free from pain, but showed 
great irritability, w hich was kept up by his anxiety 
concerning the allairs of the expedition. On the 
30th the debility, irritability, and depression of 
spirits became extreme, and he now^ expressed his 
conviction, that all attempts to restore the energy 
of his system would prove ineffectual. From this 
time to the 4th, when he expired, his strength gra- 



INTRODUCTION. Hx 

dually failed him, but during the whole of his ill- 
ness, he had neither pain nor fever ; and he may 
be said to have died of complete exhaustion, rather 
than of disease. He had deceived himself, it 
seems, by the confidence which he felt in the 
strength of his constitution. The surgeon states 
that, since leaving England, he never enjoyed 
good health, the hepatic functions being generally 
in a deranged state ; yet he was always unwilling 
to acknowledge himself an invalid, and refused to 
take such medicines as were deemed at the lime to 
be essentially necessary. On his march into the 
interior, the symptoms became much aggravated, 
and he was prevailed on by Dr. Smith to take some 
calomel ; afterwards opium was found necessary, 
and lastly, the bark. 

The few survivors of this ill-fated expedition will 
long cherish the memory of Captain Tuckey, of 
whom Mr. Fitzmaurice, the master, who succeeded 
to the command, observes, in reporting his deatli, 
— " in him the navy has lost an ornament, and its 
seamen a father." But his benevolence was not 
confined to tlie profession of which he was so dis- 
tinguished a member. A poor black of South Af- 
rica, who, in his youth, had been kidnapped by a 
slave-dealer, was put on board the Congo, while 
in the Thames, with the view of restoring him to 
his friends and country, neither of which turned 
out to be in the neighbourhood of the Zaire, and 
he was brought back to England. This black was 
publicly baptized at Deptford church, by the name 
of Benjamin Peters ; having learned to read on the 
passage out by Captain Tuckey 's instructions, of 
whom he speaks in the strongest terms of gratitude 
and aflection. He was generous to a fanh. A rear 
relation has observed, "that a want of sufFicieiit 



Ix INTRODUCTION. 

economy, and an incapability of refusal to open 
his purse to the necessities of others, have been 
tlie cause of many of the difficulties which clouded 
the prospects of his after life ;" — that " he knew 
nothing of the value of money, except as it enabled 
him to gratify the feelings of a benevolent heart." 

In his person Captain Tuckey was tall, and must 
once have been handsome ; but his long residence 
in India had broken down his constitution, and, at 
the age of thirty, his hair was gray, and his head 
nearly bald ; his countenance was pleasing, but 
wore rather a pensive cast; but he was at all 
times gentle and kind in his manners, cheerful in 
conver&''ation, and indulgent to every one placed 
under his command. In him it may fairly be said, 
the profession has lost an ornament, his country 
has been deprived of an able, enterprising, and 
experienced oiiicer, and his widow and children 
have sustained an irreparable loss. 

Lieutenant Hawkey was another of these offi- 
cers, whose prospect of rising in his profession was 
blasted by the system of refusal to exchange pri- 
soners of war ; a most inhuman system, which 
doomed young officers to a hopeless captivity, 
limited only by the duration of the war, or rather, 
viewing the character of that war, limited by no 
visible bounds; with the additional cruelty of an 
indefinite separation from their country and their 
friends. They had, moreover, in this hopeless si- 
tuation constantly before them the melancholy re- 
ilection, that, after having spent the first and best 
years of their lives in the active service of their 
country, and the middle part of them in a horrid 
captivity, even when the time of their liberation 
should arrive, they would have to begin the world 



INTRODUCTION. Ixi 

again : and, without a chance of employment in 
their own profession, as tlie war would then have 
ceased, painfully to seek out new means for the 
support of themselves and their families. Under 
this unfeeling system, Lieutenant Hawkey suffered 
an imprisonment of eleven years. A few months 
after the renewal of the war, in 1803, when serv- 
ing as a midshipman in La Minerve, under the 
command of Captain (now Sir Jaheel) Brenton, he 
was taken prisoner in the gallant defence of that 
ship, when she was, unfortunately, in a fog, run by 
the pilot on the western point of the stone dike 
of Cherbourg. A commission however of Lieu- 
tenant had been sent out for him, by mistake, to 
the West-Indies; which being dated previous to 
his capture was not cancelled, but forwarded to 
him in France ; and was thus the means in some 
degree of alleviating the evils of captivity. It was 
in France he became acquainted with his fellow 
prisoner Captain Tuckey, who, on his appoint- 
ment to the command of the Congo, requested to 
have his companion in misfortune to accompany 
him on a voyage, which held out a fair prospect of 
gratifying and rewarding their mutual talents. 

Lieutenant Hawkey was an excellent draughts- 
man : he sketched in a bold and artist-like man- 
ner; and to a general knowledge of natural histo- 
ry, he united the talent of painting the minuter sea 
and land animals, with great spirit and accuracy, 
and in an exquisite style of colouring. A number 
of specimens of this kind were found in a small 
pocket book, accompanied with some slight memo- 
randa ; but his papers, containing descriptions of 
those sketches and drawings, and other remarks, 
in the progress up the river, have unfortunately 
been lost. He proceeded with the captain to the 



Ixii INTRODUCTION. 

farthest point of the journey, and though employ- 
ed in the most active manner, and exposed to the 
same weather, and the same hardships, as the rest 
of the party, he had no complaint whatever when 
he returned to the vessel, on the 17th September; 
his case was therefore somewhat singular. He con- 
tinued in good health, and without any complamt 
till the 3d October, when the ship was at sea; he 
then expressed a sense of lassitude about his loins, 
and irritability of stomach; but there was no ap- 
parent febrile action ; the pulse being about the 
natural standard, which with him was only 65% 
wdthout the body undergoing any increase of tem- 
perature. The only symptoms were irritability of 
stomach, with extreme languor and debility ; the 
next day, however, he was seized with vomiting; 
on the 6th, became insensible, the pulse scarcely 
perceptible at the wrist, and the extremities cold; 
and he continued thus till 11 o'clock in the even- 
ing, when he expired without a struggle. 

Mr. Eyre, the Purser, was a young man of a cor- 
pulent and bloated habit. He had no illness, 
w hile in the river ; had not been on shore for three 
weeks, and had taken very little exercise during 
the voyage. In the night of the 27th September, 
when on the passage to Cabenda, he was attacked 
with febrile rigours, severe pain in the head, back 
and extremities, with general lassitude, prostration 
and depression of spirits, and on the third day he 
breathed his last. Before death a yellow suffusion 
had taken place, with vomiting of matter, resem- 
bling coffee grounds ; this symptom of extravasa- 
led blood into the stomach, which occurred in many 
of the cases, would seem to confirm the idea of 
the disease being the same as that of the Bulam 
fever. 



INTRODUCTION. Ixiii 

Mr. Fitzmaurice, the Master and Surveyor, and 
Mr. Hodder, Master's Mate and Midshipman, en- 
tirely escaped the fever, excepting a sliglit attack, 
experienced by the former, in consequence of a 
fatiguing march across the mountains, on a hot sul- 
try day, to view the cataract of Yellala, v.hich 
after a good night's rest, was entirely removed. 
Lockhart the gardener was on his legs every day, 
from morning till the evening, sometimes heavily 
loaded with the plants he had collected; yet he 
proceeded to the farthest point, and returned to the 
ships, without experiencing an hours illness, and 
found the climate the whole way remarkably plea- 
sant. Being drenched however with rain in the 
lower part of the river, he took the fever, and was 
left in the hospital at Bahia, with the sergeant of 
marines, both of whom were so much reduced, as 
to leave little hope of the recovery of either. 
Lockhart however survived, and is now perfectly 
well in England ; but the sergeant died almost im- 
mediately after the sailing of the Congo. 

Mr. Chetien Smith, the son of a respectable 
landholder, near the town of Drammen in Norway, 
was born in October, 1785. He was educated at 
the school of Kongsberg, and finished his studies 
at the university of Copenhagen ; where, under 
Professor Hornemann, he acquired a taste for bo- 
tany, and particularly for that branch of the 
science, of which his native mountains afforded 
such ample resources, — the mosses and lichens. 
Though at an early period of life, he had distin- 
guished himself in the study of medicine, and had 
the care of the sick in the great hospital at Copen- 
hagen, he could not resist the temptation of ac- 
companying his friends, Hornemann and Worms- 
kiold on a botanical tour iiito ihr monntains of 



Ixiv INTRODUCTION. 

Norway. In the early part of this tour, the war, 
which broke out in 1807 between Sweden and 
Denmark, recalled his companions, and left Mr. 
Smith to pursue alone his researches, in the moun- 
tains of Tellemarck, where he discovered a great 
number of mosses, and other new plants, which 
gained him celebrity among all the botanists of the 
North. In 1812 he made a second excursion across 
the mountains of Tellemarck and Hallingdal, which 
w^ere but little known, even to the natives of Nor- 
way ; he ascertained their heights, examined their 
productions, made a number of curious meteorolo- 
gical observations, and, in short, traversed those 
solitary regions not only as a botanist, but as a 
natural philosopher ; and the narrative which he 
has given of his proceedings, to use the words of 
his friend Von Buch, '• will always be considered 
as one of the most curious and instructive docu- 
ments of physical geography." He has therein 
exemplified and explained the immense influence 
of the proximity of the sea, and the surprising 
difference, resulting from it, between the tempera- 
ture of the interior of the continent, and of the 
coast, and its effects on the different products of 
the vegetable world ; the limits of perpetual snow 
on the sides of different mountains, and a great 
variety of interesting facts, connected with the 
geography and physiology of plants. 

The Patriotic Society of Norway, struck with 
the zeal and indefatigable industry of Mr. Smith, 
engaged him at its own expense to undertake an- 
other scientific expedition into the clusters of 
mountains, which, about the 62d parallel of lati- 
tude, separate the valleys of Walders, of Guld- 
transdal, and of Romsdal, whose height and ex- 
tent were unknown, and many parts of them untrod 



INTRODUCTION. Ixv 

even by the hunters of the rein deer. By this ex- 
cursion the Norwegian Flora was greatly extended, 
and from it the geography of plants acquired fresh 
facts at once exceedingly curious and interesting. 
Nor was this all; with a true spirit of philanthropy 
Mr. Smith assembled the scattered peasantry of 
these high and secluded valleys, explained to them 
the characters and the valuable properties of the 
lichens which covered their mountains, instructed 
them how to convert these mosses into bread that 
was pleasant to the taste, nourishing, and whole* 
some, and prevailed on them to adopt this bread 
instead of that miserable resource of bark bread, 
which affords but little or no nourishment, and timt 
little at the expense of health. 

The death of his father about this time put him 
in possession of a little fortune, which he at once 
resolved to employ in studying nature in foreign 
countries. His nomination to the professorship of 
botany at the university of Christiania did not 
divert him from his plan ; on the contrary, he 
thought he could not do a greater service to the 
cause of science than to consecrate the fruits of 
his travels to the new botanical garden of that 
place. He came to London, met Avith a country- 
man who had been instructed in the King's Gar- 
dens at Kew, and sent him to superintend his fa- 
vourite garden at Christiania, with abundance of 
plants and seeds which he purchased at his own 
expense. He next proceeded to Edinburgh, from 
whence he set out on a tour across the highest 
mountains of Scotland to examine their produc- 
tions. The mountains of the northern counties of 
England and of Wales did not escape his active 
researches. From Wales he crossed over to Dub- 
lin, scoured all the mountains of Ireland, and re- 



Ixvi INTRODUCTION. 

turned to London towards the end of the year 
1814. It is needless to add, that so zealous an 
advocate for the extension of human knowledge 
engaged at once the friendship and protection of 
Sir Joseph Banks. At the house of this patron 
of science he met with the first naturalists of the 
age, and among others with that distinguished 
geologist, the Baron Von Buch, whose habits and 
feelings being congenial with his own, they soon 
projected a voyage of scientific inquiry to the 
island of Madeira, and to those of the Canaries. 

On the 21st April, 181f?, they landed atFunchal, 
the capital of Madeira. " From that moment," 
says M. Von Buch, '•'' transported with the sight of 
so many new objects, Smith knew no repose ; he 
laid hold of the several species of Cactus w hich in 
the most whimsical forms cover the rocks, to con- 
Tince himself that they were real ; he leaped over 
the walls to examine those forests of Donax which 
the wind agitates above the vines to which they 
give support ; he ran from flower to flower, as if in 
ecstasy, and it was with great difficulty he could 
be prevailed on to enter the town. Here again 
his eye was delighted in traversing the great square, 
and observing the avenue of large trees of Justicia, 
of the Melia Azedarach, and of the gigantic Da- 
tura, covered with their large and brilliant blos- 
soms, which fill the air with their perfumes ; the 
immense leaves of the Banana trees waving above 
the walls, and the superb palm lifting its lofty head 
high above the houses ; the singular form of the 
Dragon tree ; the fragrance of the flowers, and 
the tufted foliage of the orange trees threw him 
into raptures. The elegant coflTee-shrub is found 
only in the gardens; but the pine-apple flourishes 
in the open fields ; and the Mimosa, the Eucalyp- 



fNTRODUCTION. Ixvii 

tus, the Melaleuca, the Mammea, Clitorea, Ery- 
thrina, Eugenia, ol* which the dwarfisli fragmeijts 
on]y are seen in the conservatories of Europe, 
here mount up to large and beautiful trees, uwd 
fheir tlowers, glowing with the most vivid colours, 
are viewed against the most brilliant skj in the 
world. 

His own feelings, on being tlius suddenly trans- 
ported from the moss grown mountains of his na- 
tive country to a more genial climate, are thus ex- 
pressed in a letter to his friend ; " how shall I be 
able to describe to you, how declare to you whnt I 
have here felt, what I have here seen ! How shall 
I be able to give you an idea of the variety, of the 
siiigularity of those forms, of that beauty and that 
brilliancy of the colours, of all that magnificence 
of nature which surrounds me ! We ascend the 
eloping ridges of the mountains which embrace the 
splendid city of Funchal; we rest ourselves on 
the margin of a brook, which falls in numberless 
cascades across thickets of rosemary, of laurels, 
and of myrtles; — the city at our feet, with its forts, 
its churches, its gardens, and its roadstead ; above 
us, forests of the stone pine and of chestnuts, inter- 
spersed with the (lowers of the spartium and la- 
vender. A whole legion of Canary birds makes 
the air resound with their sweet sonof; and nothinsr 
here, but the snow on the mountain tops, whicli 
now and then pierce through the clouds, would 
recall to my recollection my native country." 

M. Von Buch observes, that neither the torrents 
of rain which fell almost daily, nor the dense clouds 
which constantly covered the mountains for more 
than half of their height, nor tlie snow which en- 
veloped their summits, could restrain them from 



ixviti INTRODUCTION. 

attempting to ascertain the distribution of vegeta- 
tion on this island, and the height of its mountains. 
They found by the barometer, the altitude of Nostra 
Senhora da Monte to be 1778 English feet above 
the level of the sea. At the height of 3200 feet 
they encountered a wood composed of the beau- 
tiful Laurus indica, the Laurus nobilis, the Erica 
arborea or mediterranea, and the Erica scoparia. 
Through thick fog, and continual rain, they perse- 
vered in the ascent; and at the height of 4340 feet, 
they traversed the valley of Ganada, where Smith 
viewed with astonishment and delight, a whole 
forest of myrtles (Vaccinium arctostaphyllos) of 
trees from 16 to 20 feet high and more. At 5390 
feet they fell in with the snow. The summit of 
Torringas was found to be 5857 feet. 

The two naturalists left Madeira on the 2d May. 
and landed on the 5th at Oratava, in Teneriffe, 
where they were kindly and hospitably received 
by one of the most amiable and respectable fami- 
hes in the island, to whom Mr. Smith, by his na- 
tural gayety and the suavity of his manners, made 
himself particularly acceptable : but the charms of 
agreeable society did not make him forget the ob- 
ject of his visit to the Canaries. He was always 
on his feet, and incessantly in pursuit ; he never 
returned from his excursions till late in the even- 
ing, and always laden with a rich harvest of plants, 
the examination and arrangement of which, left 
him but little time for sleep. Sometimes, in his 
rambles, overtaken by night, he passed it in ca- 
verns, without food, and harassed by fatigue ; but 
happy in the discoveries he had made, he neither 
felt nor thought of either. The melting of the 
snow, on the 19th May, allowed him to ascend the 
summit of the Peak of TenerifFe, from whence he 



INTRODUCTION. Ixix 

made a tour round the southern part of the island, 
in which he examined, and determined for the first 
time, the pine of the Canary islands to be an un- 
described species, to which he gave the name of 
Pinus canariensis ; discovered a new species of 
Ardisia, and collected many other new and inter- 
esting plants. Several botanical travellers have 
noticed the singular appearance of the roofs of the 
houses of Laguna, from their being covered with 
a sort of house-leek, but none had described it. — 
Mr. Smith, on examination, found it to be a new 
species, and named it, from its situation, Semper- 
vivum urbium. 

From Santa Cruz the travellers passed near to 
Palmas, the capital of Grand Canaria. It was now 
the month of August, and the summer heat had 
parched the earth and dried up the plants, except- 
ing some Euphorbias and others of the succulent 
tribe. They, however, determined by the baro- 
meter, for the first time, the height of Pico del 
Pozo de los Nieves, the most elevated on the 
island, to be 6224 English feet above the level of 
the sea. 

On returning to Santa Cruz, Smith and his friend 
set out on a journey to the Peak of TenerifJe, 
along the crest of the mountain which crosses the 
island in its greatest length. Near the summit of 
the peak the two naturalists passed several days, 
traversing the immense stream of Obsidian, which 
encircles its western side, examined the volcano of 
Chahorra, remaining in the mountains till forced 
down from want of food, water, and shoes, the 
latter of which were fairly cut in pieces by the 
glassy lava. Embarking at Orata^a, they pro- 
ceeded to the Isle of Palmas : examined the im- 



Jxx INTRODUCTION'. 

mense and almost inaccessible crater, which oc- 
cupies the centre of the island ; ascended the Pico 
de los Muchachos, whose height was found to be 
7707 English feet, and which commands a view of 
the whole island. They next visited the port of 
Naos, on the isle of Lancerota, where the vessel 
was to complete her cargo with barilla, made from 
the Mesembryanthemum crystallinum. In the mean 
time, the two naturalists paid a visit to the volcano, 
which, in 1750, almost entirely destroyed twelve 
villages, and covered nearly the third part of the 
island. Instead of one mouth they observed fif- 
teen or sixteen, extending in the same line about 
six English miles, each having formed a cone from 
three to four hundred feet high. Across the mid- 
dle of these mouths were large fissures, exhaling 
aqueous vapours, which raised the thermometer in 
a few moments to J 80°. On the 27th October, they 
re-embarked, and arrived at Portsmouth on the 8th 
December. 

It was the intention of Dr. Smith to arrange his 
Flora for publication, in London, and then return 
to his native country; but on Sir Joseph Banks 
proposing the appointment of botanist, to an ex- 
pedition then preparing to explore the Zaire, he 
most readily and unconditionally accepted the 
same, from a pure love of science, and in the hope 
of being useful to the world. His Journal, which 
is now published precisely in the state it was found, 
is sufficient to evince his great zeal, and qualifica- 
tions as a botanist. It is but just however to the 
memory of (he deceased to state, that this Journal 
h\d evidently undergone no revision, but is a trans- 
cript or rather a translation of his original minutes 
and observations, as they appear to have been en- 
tered, from day to day, in a small pocket memo- 



INTRODUCTION. Ixxi 

randum book ; written in the Danish language, and 
in so small and ill-formed a character as in some 
places to be perfectly illegible. Ky the close at- 
tention, however, of Doctor Rydherg, to whom 
the editor is indebted for the translation, the great- 
er part has been pretty well made out. His notes 
are carried on to the end of his journey upwards, 
but are not continued on his return down the river. 
He was taken ill, before they reached the vessels, 
and came down witli the Captain in the last canoe : 
and was sent with him to the Transport, for the 
sake of greater convenience : by this lime, howe- 
ver, he was dangerously ill. and refused to take 
any thing, either in the shnpe of medicine, or nu- 
triment. He had tried bark, but his stomach con- 
stantly rejected it : and under an idea that his ill- 
ness proceeded only from debility, he persisted in 
taking only cold water. On the 21st September he 
became delirious, and died on the following day. 

Mr. Cranch was one of those extraordinary self- 
taught characters, to whom particular branches of 
science are sonietimes more indei)ted, than to the 
labours of those wlio ha\ e had the advantage of a 
regular education. He was born at Exeter in the 
year 1785, of humble, but respectable parents; at 
eight years of age he had the misfortune to lose his 
father; and as the circumstances in which his mo- 
ther was left, did not enable her to provide for all 
her children, John, the subject of the present me- 
moir, was taken charge of by an uncle living at 
Kingsbridge. The main object in life, and wliich 
was nearest to the heart of this relation, was the 
accumulation of wealth ; and his extreme penury 
denied to his nephew almost the benefit of a com- 
mon education. The miserable guinea which 
procured for him a year's instruction in reading, 



Ixxii INTRODUCTION. 

writing, and arithmetic, was wrenched from him 
with so much grudging, and in a manner so unkind^ 
as to be then severely felt, and never afterwards 
forgotten. 

At the age of fourteen, this provident relation 
first put him out as an apprentice, to learn " the 
art and mystery of shoemaking;" a line of life 
which, from its peculiar monotony of stillness, or 
in spite of it, seems by no means unfriendly, as ex- 
perience has shown, to the progress of intellectual 
acquirement. , The strength of mind for which 
young Cranch had been distinguished from his 
childhood was now constantly and obviously strug- 
gling with the adverse circumstances of his situa- 
tion; but every moment, which could be stolen 
from his daily labour, was devoted to the few books 
which he had found means to collect. The study 
of natural history was that in which he mostly de* 
lighted ; and, even at this early period of his life, 
he was able to draw up correct and classical de- 
Bcriptions of all the insects he could procure in the 
neighbourhood of Kingsbridge. Without other 
assistance than books, he had acquired a sufficient 
knowledge of Latin and French, to enable him to 
understand thoroughly those languages, when made 
use of by zoological writers, and to employ them 
himself, in describing objects of natural history. 
He had acquired also a general knowledge of as- 
tronomy. But, while thus eagerly endeavouring to 
grasp at science, every thing tended to depress, 
and nothing to encourage him. However, he had 
the fortitude to persevere ; and continued, in spite 
of every obstacle, silently and sedulously, unno- 
ticed and unknown, to nourish his ruling passion> 
the love of knowled2:e. 



INTRODUCTION. IxiLni 

At the expiration of his apprenticeship, he went 
up to London with the professed view of improve- 
ment in the art of shoemaking; but in reahty wif h 
higher objects and better hopes ; though he hard- 
ly ventured to own them to himself The man- 
ners and morals of his fellow workmen were ill 
suited to his feelings and pursuits; and served 
only to increase his dislike for the profession to 
which he had been doomed. But it was some con- 
solation to reflect that he was in the great mart of 
human knowledge ; and though unfriended, and a 
stranger, he found that information flowed in upon 
him on every side. His mind was filled, but not 
satisfied. Every museum, auction room, and book 
stall, every object to which his attention was call- 
ed, he visited with a rapid and unsatiable curi- 
osity ; gleaning information wherever it was to be 
had, and treasuring it up with systematic care. 
His account of what he observed in the capital is 
said to exhibit an obvious and striking proof of an 
inquisitive, diligent, and discerning mind. A per- 
son of this stamp could not long remain in London 
without meeting with kindred spirits. One of 
these associates, speaking of Cranch, observes, 
"our conversations and philosophical rambles 
near London, have often called forth such obser- 
vations and disquisitions from him on the various 
qualities, attributes, combinations, provisions and 
arrangements of nature, as marked vast compre- 
hension, as well as the most delicate subtilties of 
discrimination in an intellect, which seemed indeed 
to be calculated to grasp magnitude and minutiae 
with equal address, and which could at once sur- 
prise, delight, and instruct." 

After a residence of some time in London, he 
returned to the haunts of his childhood ; but it was 

L 



]^xiv INTRODUCTION. 

soon discovered how little chance the '* bootma- 
ker from London" had of eclipsing his humble 
rivals, who had never lost sight of the smoke of 
their native hamlet. But he had no alternative ; 
he must eat to live ; and work at his trade to be 
able to eat. His labour however produced him 
little more than a bare subsistence; and every 
moment that he could venture to take from it, was 
dedicated to his favourite pursuit. 

Shortly, however, his domestic circumstances 
were favourably improved by marriage. His 
workshop was now consigned wholly to his jour- 
neymen, while he was sedulously and successfully 
collecting objects of natural history. No difficul- 
ties nor dangers impeded his researches. He 
climbed the most rugged precipices ; he was fre- 
quently lowered down by the peasants from the 
summits of the tallest cliffs; he waded through 
rapid streams ; he explored the beds of the mud- 
diest rivers : he sought the deepest recesses. He 
frequently wandered for whole weeks from home, 
and often ventured out to sea for several days to- 
gether, entirely alone, in the smallest skiffs of the 
fishermen. No inclemency of weather ; no vicis- 
situdes of "storms and sunshine," ever prevented 
his fatiguing pursuits ; the discovery of a new in- 
sect amply repaid the most painful exertions. Se- 
veral papers in the " Weekly Entertainer," a little 
work which accompanies one of the most popular 
of the western newspapers, were written by him ; 
and by these, and his collection of subjects in natu- 
ral history, he gradually became better known, 
and his talents duly appreciated by the most able 
naturalists. Of this the following extract of a let- 
ter to the editor,* from Dr. Leach, of the British 
Museum, bears ample and honourable testimony. 



INTRODUCTION. IxxV 

•*ln 1814, Mr. Montagu and myself, together 
with Mr. C. Prideaux, visited Mr. Cranch, for the 
purpose of seeing his museum. We were all aston- 
ished at the magnitude of his collection of shells, 
Crustacea, insects, birds, &c. collected entirely by» 
himself, and still more so with the accuracy of 
their classification, and with the remarks made by 
this self-educated and zealous individual. He 
conversed on all subjects connected with natural 
history, with modesty, but, at the same time, with 
that confidence which is the result of knowledge. 
Quite delighted with having made his acquaint- 
ance, I left him Mith a resolution to cultivate a 
correspondence with him on the subject of our fa- 
vourite pursuits. On the following morning, I re- 
ceived a note from him, offering me any specimens 
that might be wanting, and that he could supply, 
to my collection. 

" Soon after this meeting, I was appointed to the 
British Museum, when Mr. Cranch applied to me 
to endeavour to obtain for him some situation in 
that institution, which would enable him to culti- 
vate the study of natural history on a more ex- 
tended scale; but as no vacancy existed, and as I 
found his demands for employment come within 
the limits of my pocket, I proposed that he should 
undertake to investigate the coasts of Devon and 
Cornwall, for marine productions; and eventually 
to make a tour of Great Britain, with the same 
view; at the same time I promised to recommend 
him to the first situation that might occur, to ena- 
ble him to attain the object of his ambition. 

"On receiving my letter he immediately dis- 
charged his journeymen, and converted his manu- 
ftictory of boots and shoes into apartments for the 



Ixxvi INTRQDUCTION. 

reception and preservation of such objects of na- 
tural history as his daily excursions might procure. 
He kept up a continual communication with the 
fishermen of Plymouth, and constantly received 
from them baskets filled with the rubbish they 
dredged from the bottom of the sea ; and this he 
examined with diligence and attention, preserving 
all the new objects that he discovered, and making 
descriptions of them. He visited, occasionally, 
the Brixham, Plymouth, and Falmouth fishermen, 
and made excursions with them. He very often 
left Kingsbridge in an open boat, and remained 
absent for a long time together, during which, he 
dredged when the tide was full, and examined the 
shores when it was out. At night he slept in hi& 
boat, which he drew on shore; and when the 
weather was too stormy for marine excursions, he 
would leave his boat and proceed to examine the 
country and woods for insects, birds, &c. The 
remarks with which he accompanied the infinity 
of new objects which he discovered, are invalu- 
able; many of them have been, and the rest shall 
be hereafter, made public." 

In this way was Mr. Cranch employed for the 
collection of natural history in the British Museum, 
at the time when the expedition to the Congo was 
planned : for such an expedition a person of this 
description >vas invaluable, and Dr. Leach recom- 
mended him to Sir Joseph Banks, as one in every 
way fitted for the undertaking. On his part, an 
appointment so suited to his pursuits, and so flat- 
tering to his hopes, was the height of his ambition, 
and he at once accepted it, though not without 
some painful struggles to his feelings. It seems he 
had a sort of presentiment that he should never 
return, and that the expectation of such an event 



IIVTROPUCTION. ixxvit 

l>€caaie weaker and weaker, as his country faded 
from his view. His conduct, however, during the 
voyage out, does not appear to have been influ- 
enced by tliis feehng; nor was his exertions at all 
relaxed by an occasional lowness of spirits, which 
was, perhaps, partly constitutional, and owing 
partly to the gloomy view taken of Christianity by 
that sect denominated Methodists, of which, it 
seems, he was a member. He is represented, 
however, by his friends, as a sincere Christian, an 
affectionate parent, and a kind friend. 

Mr. Crancli was taken ill on the 23d August, on 
the march between the banza or town of Cooloo, 
and the banza Inga, and was carried back on the 
shoulders of the natives to Cooloo, and from thence 
in a hammock to the place of embarkation below 
the rapids ; but it was the tenth day before he 
reached the ship in a canoe. The symptoms, by 
the surgeon's report, were an extreme languor and 
general exhaustion ; a restlessness and anxiety, 
approaching at times to delirium, but he had no 
pain, except an uneasy sensation throughilut the 
abdomen; the countenance became of a dirty 
yellow colour, the pulse was at 108°, and very small* 
The next day he was much worse, and on the third 
day the whole body became yellow ; the counte- 
nance assumed a deadly aspect, the pulse at the 
wrist imperceptible, and in the evening he expired, 
^' after uttering,*' says Mr. Fitzmaurice, " a de- 
vout prayer for the welfare of his family, and with 
the name of his wife quivering on his lips. He 
was of that order of dissenters," he adds, '• who 
are called Methodists, and if I may judge from ex- 
ternal appearances, he was an affectionate husband 
and father, a sincere friend, a pious, honest, and 
goad man." He died in the 31st year of his age. 



Ixxviii kVTRODUCTION. 

and was buried at Embomma by permissioH of the 
king, in his own burial ground, where he was laid 
with military honours by the side of his fellow- 
traveller Mr. Tudor, who had been interred with 
the like ceremony, a few days before. 

Mr. Tudor was a young surgeon recommended 
hj Mr. Brookes the anatomist, and examined and 
approved by Sir Everard Home, as a person well 
qualified to act in the capacity of comparative 
anatomist. The unfortunate circumstances of the 
expedition afforded him but few materials to work 
upon, and but little opportunity to exercise his 
talent on those few. He was the youngest of the 
party, and the first who was attacked with fever on 
shore, being seized on the 15th August, after a 
march of three days. He was immediately sent 
back to the vessels, and on the 22d he reached the 
Congo in one of the double-boats. On his arrival 
he showed great debility, anxiety, and impatience. 
His case was very similar to that of Mr. Cranch, 
and on J;he evening of the 29th he died without 
pain. 

Mr. Edward Galwey was second son to the 
banker of that name in Mallow. He was educated 
for the university, with a view to qualify for one of 
the learned professions ; but an eligible appoint- 
ment offering, in the mean time, to a situation in 
the East Indies, he was about to proceed thither, 
when, by the advice of his friends, and a necessity 
occurring for his assistance in his father's office, 
he was prevailed on to take his seat at the desk. 
It was soon however discovered, that the dull 
routine of such employment was but little congenial 
with his inclinations, and he escaped from it 
whenever he could with propriety do so, to indulge 



INTRODUCTION. Ixxit 

his zeal ibr scientific research, and to cultivate his 
taste for music, of which he was passionately fond, 
and in which he excelled. He availed himself of 
all opportunities to acquire a practical knowledge 
of botany, and was particularly conversant in all 
the new discoveries in chemistry, which, with 
geology, were his favourite studies. He was soon 
however drawn from his retired and studious haijits^ 
to seek for health in the south of Europe, having 
suffered for several months by an oppression and 
pain in the chest, accompanied with a constant 
short, dry cough, quick pulse, and all the symptoms 
of a confirmed consumption ; from all which how- 
ever he was completely cured before he landed in 
Lisbon, after a tempestuous and protracted passage 
in the winter of 1813. Finding himself so well, and 
conceiving that his uniform of a yeomanry officer 
would afford him much facility in travelling in the 
peninsula, he was induced to go into Spain ; and 
the few nK)nths he spent in visiting various parts of 
this country, and the delight experienced by a 
mind finely stored like his with diversified know- 
ledge, inspired him with so enthusiastic a zeal for 
foreign travel, that although on his return to Ire- 
land, he re-assumed his station in the bank, it was 
evident that an opportunity only was wanting to set 
him out again on his travels. That opportunity 
soon occurred by the ill-fated expedition to explore 
the Zaire. On hearing that Captain Tuckey, who 
was one of his early friends, had got the appoint- 
ment, he immediately wrote to entreat he might be 
allowed to accompany him as a volunteer. It was 
in vain to represent how inconveniently he must be 
accommodated ; and that he could not be allowed 
even to take a servant ; but he pleaded the example 
of Sir Joseph Banks, as entirely obviating, in his 
own case, so trifling an objection ; his family re- 



IxXX INTRODUCTION. 

monstrated with him on the score of his health 
being injured from the hardships he would neces- 
sarily have to undergo, and from the effects of 
climate; his argument was, that he had already 
tried both, and his health had improved by the 
experiment. In short, remonstrance and persua- 
sion were resorted to in vain : he persisted in his 
entreaties with the Admiralty and Captain Tuckey ; 
and on the latter expressing a wish to take him, as 
one likely to be useful, in promoting the objects of 
the expedition, he wa& permitted to join the Congo 
as a volunteer. 

Mr. Galwey proceeded with the Captain's party 
as far up the river as the banza Inga, where he 
was taken ilf, about the 24th August, and sent off 
from thence to the vessels : but he did not reach 
Congo, in his canoe, till the 7th September, being 
then in a state of great exhaustion ; his counte- 
nance, by the surgeon's account, ghastly, with ex- 
treme debility, and great anxiety ; a short cough, 
with hurried respiration and heaving of the chest, 
the pulse 108, and very small, the body of a dirty 
yellow colour. On the following day, all the bad 
symptoms were increased, but he was free from 
pain. On the 9th he became insensible, and ex- 
pired about the middle of the day. His body was 
taken to the burial ground of the King of Embom- 
ma,and interred with such honours as the dispirited 
and much reduced party could bestow, by the side 
of his unfortunate companions Cranch and Tudor. 

Mt. Galwey had taken a very active part in col- 
lecting specimens, and making remarks on the na- 
tural products of the country, and more particu- 
larly on its geology ; but both his journal and his 
collections have been lost. They had met in their 



INTRODUCTION. Ixxxi 

progress with a party of slave-dealers, having in 
their possession a negro in fetters, from the Man- 
dingo country. From motives of humanity, and 
with the view of returning this man to his friends 
and country, as well as under the hope that he 
might become useful as they proceeded, and give 
some account of the regions through which he 
must have passed, as soon as he should be able to 
speak a little English, Captain Tuckey purchased 
this slave, and appointed him to attend Mr. Gal- 
wey ; but he was utterly incapable, it seems, of 
feeling either pleasure or gratitude at his release 
from captivity ; and when Mr. Gal wey was taken 
ill, he not only abandoned him, but carried off the 
little property he had with him, no part of which 
was ever recovered. 

After this gloomy recital of the mortality which 
befell the officers and naturalists of the expedition, 
it will be the less necessary to bespeak the in- 
dulgence of the public in passing judgment on the 
present volume. The Journals of Captain Tuckey 
and Professor Smith, with the collections which 
have reached England, afford ample testimony how 
much more might have been expected in less un- 
fortunate circumstances. These Journals will not 
be deemed the less valuable for being the mere 
records of facts and impressions, written down 
without regard to arrangement, the moment they 
occurred' and were made. The few General Ob- 
servations collected from these Journals, and from 
detached notes of Lieutenant Hawkey, Mr. Fitz- 
maurice and Mr. M'Kerrow, have been thrown 
together in order to give a connected, though im- 
perfect, view of that particular part of the coun- 
try, and people visited by the expedition. 



CHAPTER L 



Passage to, and Notices on, the Island of Saint Jago. 



i 

9 



NARRATIVE, ^^ 



CHAPTER I. 



The provisions and stores for the expedition hav- 
ing been all shipped on board the Congo, and the 
Dorothy transport, and the river being free from the 
ice, which had blocked it up for many days, the 
two vessels quitted Deptford on the 16th of Fe- 
bruary, and proceeded to the Nore, where the 
Congo's crew received six months wages in ad- 
vance ; and on the following morning (25th) we 
weighed and anchored the same evening in the 
Downs, where we w ere detained until the 28th by 
strong westerly winds. On that day, the wind be- 
ing at N. N. W., we put to sea, but returning to S. 
W. when abreast of Plymouth, we were obliged to 
run into the Sound, where we lay for three days, 
perfectly sheltered by the Breakwater from the 
violence of a S. W. gale. Here we completed the 
Congo's complement, by receiving two marines, 
and entering two seamen, in lieu of as many who 
had deserted at Sheerness the same evening on 
which they received their advance. 

On the 5th of March, the wind moderating, 
though still at S. W., we put to sea in the hope of 
being able to beat down the Channel ; but the re- 
turn of strong gales forced us into Falmouth on the 
6th, from whence we again sailed on the 9th, with 

1 



B6 "• CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

a fine breeze at N. N. E.; this, however, failed us 
on reaching the length of Scilly, and was succeed- 
ed by a heavy gale from S. W., with extremely 
thick and dirty weather, such as, at this season, 
renders the navigation of the English channel 
equally disagreeable and dangerous, and which 
now, by preventing our getting a pilot for Scilly, 
obliged us to run back to Falmouth. In standing in 
for Scilly, we passed the Bishop and Clerk's rocks at 
the distance of a mile, the sea breaking on them in a 
frightful manner ; we also passed close to the Wolf 
rock, on which the sea also broke furiously, but 
without that roaring noise which gave it its name, 
and which formerly warned seamen of their dan- 
ger. On inquiring at Falmouth, I was assured 
that, some years since, the fishermen of Cornwall 
employed all their boats a whole summer in con- 
veying stones to fill up the chasm or hole that caus- 
ed this roaring, which, they alleged, frightened the 
fish to a great distance. 

During a tedious detention of eight days at 
Falmouth, the winds fluctuated every moment in 
hard squalls, from W. S. W. to N. W., with hieavy 
showers of rain, snow, and hail ; effects ascribable 
probably to the local situation of this harbour, 
which, being placed nearly at the narrowest part 
of the peninsula of Cornwall, and surrounded by 
high lands, is exposed to the vapours from the At- 
lantic, and from the English and Irish channels ; 
and these being intercepted and condensed by the 
hills, produce those frequent squalls and quick 
succeeding showers. 

Falmouth is a neat, clean town, built entirely of 
stone found on the spot; its market, which is a 
commodious building of Cornish granite, is ex- 
ceedingly well supplied with meat, poultry, butter. 
eggs, and vegetables. The number of meeting- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE, 37 

houses indicate the great majority of the inhabi- 
tants to be dissenters. The stranger however is 
most forcibly struck by the strong similarity of 
features in the Falmouth females, which consists 
in plump rounded faces, without much expression, 
but denoting cheerfulness and placidity of dispo- 
sition, while the bloom of their cheeks sufficiently 
prove that the humidity of the climate is not un- 
healthy. 

The wind at length coming to the north, we 
weighed once more, (^I9th) and at last cleared the 
Channel, passing Scilly at the distance of 15 
leagues. On opening the Lizard, we suddenly, 
from a very smooth water, got into a heavy swell 
from N. W., with a cross sea ; the swell doubtless 
proceeding from the late westerly gales, and the 
cross sea from the meeting of the tides of the two' 
channels at the Land's-end, for as we increased 
our distance from the land, the waves subsided,, 
and the sea became more regular. 

When abreast of Scilly the wind came to the 
east, and we now found that the transport rolled 
so heavily going before it, as to be most uncom- 
fortable even to seamen, while the Naturalists be- 
came most grievously sea-sick ; in order to reme- 
dy this rolling, as far as was now possible, all the 
lumber stowed in the boats on deck was got out of 
them; but this had little effect, the cause being 
either in the ship herself, or in some vice in the 
stowage of the hold, we were therefore obliged to 
submit to this discomfort, by which we could nei- 
ther take our meals, sleep, walk the deck, or even 
sit down to write with any satisfaction. 

The common gull {Larus canus) was the only 
bird that accompanied us from the Channel, and 
it did not disappear finally until the 23d, when 
Cape Finisterre. the nearest land, was 200 miles 



^ CAPTAIN TUCKET'S NARRATIVIi. 

distant. On the 25th we passed the Jiarallel of 
this cape, nearly at the same distance. 

We now shaped a course for the west end of 
Madeira, and a pleasant breeze from the N. E. 
impelling us forward 50 to 60 leagues a day, we 
made that island at day -light on the 31st, our ap- 
proach to it on the preceding days being denoted 
by the wind veering to the west, with frequent 
squalls and showers of rain, and by the numbers of 
loggerhead turtles {Testudo carettd) seen asleep on 
the surface of the sea. One of these animals was 
taken up by the Congo with many clusters of bar- 
nacles adhering to the shell ; they consisted of two 
species, the Lepas anatifera^ and Lepas membranacea. 
The first floating mollusca were also seen on ap- 
proaching Madeira, and as the scientific gentle- 
men were now pretty well recovered from their sea 
sickness, and the weather was warm and fair, 
Fahrenheit's thermometer at noon being 63°, the 
tow-net was put overboard, and collected some of 
these animals, all of the Vellela genus. 

Passing Madeira to the west at ten leagues dis- 
tance, we steered for Palma, which, at day-light 
on the 2d of April, was in sight ; running along its 
west side at the distance of six leagues, we ob- 
served the summit of the Caldera mountain patched 
with snow. In the afternoon we passed along the 
west side of Ferro, also at the distance of six 
leagues. 

As far as the Canaries our route had been very 
barren of any event of interest ; we saw several 
vessels, but spoke none. After losing our English 
gulls, two birds only were seen on the day before 
making Madeira, the one a large bird resembling a 
raven, the other an ash coloured gull. This al- 
most total absence of sea birds in the vicinity of 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 89 

Madeirac and the Canaries seems the more extraor- 
dinary, as it may be supposed that the Dezertas, 
Salvages, and other rocks would afford them un- 
disturbed breeding places. 

After passing Madeira the winds were generally 
from N. N. E. and N. E., blowing moderately with 
fair weather ; the days rather hazy, but the nights 
so bright that not a star was hid in the heavens. 
Our route laying to the eastward of the islands of 
Cape Verde, the trade wind, as we approached 
the coast of Africa, lost its steadiness, veering 
from N. N. E. to N. W. 

On the 5th, in latitude 22°, longitude 19° 9', the 
sea being much discoloured, we tried for sound- 
ings, but did not get bottom with 120 fathoms of 
line. Cape Cowoeira, the nearest point of Africa, 
was at this time 32 leagues distant. The atmos- 
phere extremely hazy, and a large flight of fishing- 
birds was seen ; both being indications of the vici- 
nity of soundings. Here I may observe, that should 
this discoloration of the sea at such a distance 
from the land be a constant circumstance, it may 
serve to guide ships which have no means of cor- 
recting their reckonings, and thereby prevent the 
shipwrecks that so often happen on the coast of the 
Desert in the vicinity of cape Blanco, by their not 
allowing for the easterly current that seems inva- 
riably to set quite from the English Channel to the 
Canaries, and the effect of which we found to be, 
in that distance, equal to one degree and a half of 
longitude. 

The towing-net was now become tolerably suc- 
cessful, taking up from time to time various species 
of moUusca, such as Portuguese men of war, 
(Hohthuria physalis^) Vellela mutica^ (La Marc) 
Thalis trilineata, (ib.) besides some testacea, viz. 
the Helix ianthina^ with the living animal ; man\ 



90 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

dead shells of the JVautilus spiralis^ <&;c. specimens 
of all v/hich were preserved by Mr. Cranch. 

The holothuria made its first appearance on the 
4th instant in latitude 24° 13', longitude 18° 31', 
temperature of the atmosphere at noon being 68°, 
of the surface of the sea 65°. These animals con- 
tinued more or less abundant until past the Cape 
Verde islands, when they entirely disappeared. 
The greatest abundance of them was however on 
the 5th and 6th, when nearest to the coast of 
Africa, where the sea was perfectly covered with 
them. 

The Congo's decks and sides having become ex- 
tremely leaky, both from the shrinking of the 
planks with the heat of the weather, and also ap- 
parently from imperfect caulking in the severe 
weather while she was building, 1 determined to 
anchor 24 hours in Porto Praya, to caulk her 
sides, which could not be done at sea ; and ac- 
cordingly steered for Bonavista, with a fresh trade 
at N. E., and the atmosphere very hazy during the 
day, as it usually is near the Cape Verde islands. 
On the 8th we passed along the east side of Bona- 
vista, at the distance of four leagues, and at day- 
light on the 9th were at the same distance from the 
west side of Mayo, when we steered for Porto 
Praya, and anchored in the road in the forenoon. 

With the exception of the moUusca, &c. taken 
up by the towing net, our Naturalists had no sub- 
jects to employ themselves on since entering the 
tropic ; a single flying fish, {Exocoetus volitans)^ the 
first seen, was found dead on the deck the morn- 
ing of making Bonavista, but neither dolphin, 
bonito, albicore, shark, or tropic bird was yet 
seen. 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY»S NARRATIVE. 91 



PORTO PRAY A. 

In the afternoon I went on shore, accompanied by 
several of the gentlemen, to wait on the Captain- 
general of the islands, who now resided at Porto 
Fray a. On entering the gateway of the town, for 
gate there was none, we were conducted by a ne- 
gro, to a white-washed house, of tolerably decent 
external appearance, when contrasted with the 
miserable hovels that surround it, and on being an- 
nounced by a ragged sentinel, were ushered up a 
ladder into a large apartment, the rafters, floor, and 
wainscot of which were as rough as they came 
from the sawpit ; without paint, or other decoration, 
save some daubed prints of the Virgin and Saints. 
Here we found the General at dinner with a large 
company, among whom were half a dozen greasy 
monks, wrapped in frieze (the thermometer at 84^), 
whose jolly figures and cheerful countenances de- 
noted any thing but abstinence and penance. The 
GeneraPs lady, a comely European Portuguese, 
drest a TAnglaise, was the only female at table, and 
sat on the right hand of her husband. Not having 
had any arrivals from Portugal for four months, the 
General was very inquisitive as to the political ap- 
pearances in Europe, and as he spoke tolerable 
French, I was able to satisfy him. 

From hence we were conducted to the house of 
the Governor of the island, who we also found at 
dinner with his wife, several monks, and officers. 
The lady was a half-cast^ and habited a la negresse^ 
that is, with nothing but a shift and a petticoat, be- 
ing the only female. The Governor, who can make 
himself very well understood in English, immedi- 
ately requested to be employed in procuring the 
refreshments we required ; at the same time taking 



92 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

great pains to convince us, that he had no interest- 
ed motives in offering his services ; to which, of 
course, we gave all due credit. Nevertheless, in 
order to avoid the delay I knew he might cause, 
and besides the trifling supplies we required being 
of little moment, I gave him an order for four bul- 
locks, and some pumpions and oranges. This very 
disinterested officer, who wears the uniform and has 
the rank of colonel, is however one of the most 
sturdy beggars I ever met with, and commenced his 
attack on our liberality, by telling the purser, that 
his wife desired him to ask if he could sell her 
some butter; but adding, that he knew English 
officers never soM^ but only made compliment This 
broad hint was followed up by wishes for porter, 
cheese, and potatoes; and the example of the Go- 
vernor was followed by his guests ; one of the offi- 
cers modestly asking me to sell him a pair of old 
epaulets ; another wished he could get a cocked 
hat ; a third, a pair of English shoes ; a fourth, a 
pair of gloves ; at the same time pulling a pair out 
of his pocket, which he assured us were English; 
but added, with a sigh, that they were not his own, 
having borrowed them from a brother officer for the 
day. All these gentlemen expressed themselves in 
very broken English, and indeed there is scarcely 
a person in the town who does not speak enough of 
this language for the purpose of bartering or beg- 
ging. 

Having taken leave of the Governor, we walked 
over the town, which is situated on a kind of plat- 
form or table land, nearly perpendicular on all 
sides, and quite so towards the bay. With the ex- 
ception of half a dozen houses of the chief officers, 
Avhich are plastered and white-washed, and of the 
church, which is without a spire, and externally re- 
iSembles ^ barn, this capital of the Cape Verde 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 93 

Inlands consists of three rows of hovels, constructed 
of stones and mud, and thatched with branches of 
the date tree, and chiefly inhabited by negroes. 

The fortifications consist of what is here called a 
fort, but which an engineer would be puzzled to 
describe ; and a line, facing the bay, of sixteen old 
iron giuis, within a half demolished parapet wall. 
In a sort of bastion of the fort, the grave of Captain 
Eveleigh is distinguished by a patch of pavement 
of round pebbles. This officer, commanding His 
Majesty's ship Actcon, was mortally wounded in a 
drawn action with a French frigate. On the seve- 
ral high platform points that surround the bay, are 
also mounted some guns, each of these posts being 
guarded by a single negro family. From the im- 
posing appearance of these batteries^ it is, doubtless, 
that the Governor-general expects that all vessels 
will notify their intention of sailing ; nor could I 
refrain from a smile, when, after informing me that 
this was a necessary ceremony, even for ships of 
war, he assured me that on hoisting a flag, lie would 
immediately make a signal to the batteries to let us 
pass ! perfectly satisfied as I was, that the vessels 
might be almost out of sight of the island before a 
iiun could be fired. 

The bay of Porto Praya, however, possesses the 
greatest capability of being strongly fortified against 
5^hipping, and the town might, by a simple wall in 
those places where the sides of the platform are 
not perpendicular, be secured from a cot/p de main. 
The town must however in this case be supplied 
with water from the rain collected in cisterns. 
There are here no regular European troops, a few 
officers excepted, and the militia ; one of whom may 
be seen standing sentinel every ten yards in the 
town, perfectly in character with the fortifications, 
this corps being composed of the most ragged, bare- 

2 '^ • 



94 CAPTAIN TUCKETS NARRATIVE. 

legged, sans-culotte vagabond-looking wretches 
of all shades of colour, from the swarthy Eu- 
ropean Portuguese to the Negro of Guinea; and, 
as if it was determined that there should be no in- 
congruity in any part of the military department, 
not one of their muskets* in ten has a lock, and 
many of the barrels are lashed to the stocks with 
rope yarns. 

From the town we descended by a zig-zag path 
to the valley on the left, named " Val de Trini- 
dad," over which are scattered some clusters of 
date trees (^Phcenix dactylifera)^ some mimosas, and 
other spontaneous vegetation ; but the only attempt 
at cultivation is near the two wells, which supply 
the town and shipping, where a negro hut is sur- 
rounded by a miserable plantation of the cotton 
shrub (Gossipium herbaceum). There can, however, 
be no doubt but that the soil of this valley wants 
only water to render it fruitful; and it seems equally 
certain, that water might be had in sufficient quan- 
tity by digging wells. The present possessors of 
the island must however change their natures, be- 
fore this or any other improvement is effected. 
Though a species of mimosa grows to a large size 
in the most burnt-up spots, and affords a good 
shade, they seem never to have thought of planting 
it in the town, where it would be not only orna- 
mental, but highly useful in moderating the exces- 
sive heat, caused by the action of the sun on the 
ferruginous sand. 

The wells we now found surrounded by negro 
washerwomen, whose state of all but nudity, and 
pendant flaccidity of bosom, seemed to wake our 
un travelled companions from the dreams they had 
indulged in of the sable Venules which they were 
to find on the banks of the Congo. 

In the afternoon of the 10th we made a more 
extended excursion ; quitting the town, we follow- 



CAPTAIN TUGKEY'S NARRATIVE. 95 

ed the sides and summits of the hills that bound 
the valley of Trinidad, for about three miles, when 
we came to a mean delapidated house, hanging- 
over the precipitous brow of a platform, which we 
learnt was one of the Governor General's country 
residences. At the foot of the precipice is what 
here may be called a garden, containing half a 
dozen cocoa-nut trees, some manioc, sweet pota- 
toes, cotton shrubs, &;c. Near this we measured a 
Boabab, {Adansonia digitata)^ whose trunk, five feet 
from the ground, was 21 feet in circumference; it 
was now without leaves, the branches much re- 
sembling those of the chestnut tree. 

A mile farther, at the head of a narrow glen, we 
found the negro hamlet of San Felippe, composed 
of a dozen huts. The bottom of the glen is co- 
vered with huge stones, evidently tumbled from 
the hills that enclose it ; and from the foot of a 
vast mass of rock issues a fine spring, which serves 
to nourish a little plantation of fruits and vegeta- 
bles. A very large tamarind tree, growing out of 
the crevice of a naked rock, and the profusion of 
fruit on the cocoa-nut, banana, and papau trees, 
wliere there is not a foot of soil, prove that, in this 
climate, water is the grand principle of vegetation. 

The negroes who watched the plantation, and 
tended a few cows and sheep, received us with 
much civility, and in return we purchased from 
them a fine milch goat with her kid, and all the 
eggs they had to dispose of. The hut of a poor 
negro slave is not luxuriously furnished; where 
there are females, a partition of the branches of the 
date tree encloses a recess for their use ; the bed- 
steads are four upright sticks stuck in the clay 
floor, with transverse sticks for the bottom, over 
which is spread a mat or blanket ; a solid wooden 
chest, serving also for table and couch, a wooden 



^^ CAFTAJN TUCKEl'S NARRATIVE. 

mortar to pound their Indian corn, a pot to boil it 
some gourds for holding milk and water, and some 
wooden spoons, form the sum total of furniture and 
domestic uten«?ils ; the drum made out of a log of 
wood hollo ived, and the rude guitar of three strings, 
which are seen in every hut, prove however that 
providence every where " tempers the wind to the 
shorn lamb," and that if it permits human slavery, 
it also blunts the feelings of the slave, not only to 
the degree of endurance, but even to that of en- 
joying life under its most forbidding form- In wit- 
nessing the joyous songs and dances of the negroes, 
we could scarcely believe that they are subject to 
be momentarily dragged away to receive the lashe.s 
commanded by a brutal owner, were we not pain- 
fully convinced by the indelible marks of the whip 
on their naked bodies. 

The strictest precautions are taken against the 
evasion of slaves on board foreign vessels that 
touch here, and particularly by not allowing boats 
of any kind to the inhabitants, the want of which 
gives to the port the appearance of a deserted set- 
tlement. 

The industrious pursuits of the islanders appear 
to be limited by their absolute wants, being con- 
fined to producing the stock and vegetables for 
their consumption, manufacturing a little sugar 
also for their own use, and weaving the cotton of 
the island chiefly into shawls for the women. 

As there is scarcely any thing e^^ported from the 
island, there is no other ingress of money, than 
what is paid by ships for refreshments, or that 
which is sent from Portugal to pay the expenses of 
the establishment; and this cannot be much if all 
are paid in the same proportion as the Governor, 
who told us that his salary was but four dollars a 
day. Possessed by a more industrious people^ and 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 97 

better governed, this island might however be made 
highly productive of colonial objects; the sugar 
cane is equal to that of the West Indies, the indigo 
plant succeeds perfectly, and the dye it affords for 
their cottons is excellent ; coffee is also produced 
ibr consumption, and with common industry the 
now burnt-up valleys might be covered with the 
cotton-shrub. Two or three pitiful shops, contain- 
ing the most heterogenous assortment of goods, 
convey the only appearance of domestic commerce; 
in them we observed various kinds of English cot- 
ton goods and earthen ware ; the other objects, as 
hats, shoes, Szc. being of Portuguese fabric. 

Towards the sea shore, where my own obser- 
vations were confined, St. Jago presents the most 
forbidding appearance of sterility, the whole sur- 
face denoting the effect of some mighty convul- 
sion, which piled matter upon matter in what ma^ 
be termed a regular confusion. The two promi- 
nent forms are those of platforms or table lands 
generally cut perpendicular as a wall on one side, 
and level with the neighbouring land on the other; 
and series of perfectly conical hillocks diminishing 
in size by regular gradation. Besides these, vast 
irregular masses are scattered over the interior of 
the island, forming shapeless mountains, and long 
serrated outlines. The whole of the elevated 
grounds, which I passed over, are covered with 
loose blocks of stone, basalt, lava, and other vol- 
canic products, and the beds of the numerous tor- 
rents, which were now quite dry, showed a cover- 
ing of black basaltic sand. With the exception of 
the spring at San Felippe, I did not meet a drop of 
running water, and all the annual plants were so 
burnt up as to be reducible to powder between the 
fingers. The only trees seen here are a few me- 
lancholy dates, ui^eful only by their branches, as 



98 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

their fruit does not come to perfection ; and some 
thinly scattered mimosas, serving only to render 
the general nakedness more apparent. The lesser 
vegetation consists of about a dozen shrubs, on 
which, as vt^ell as the mimosa, the goats brow^se, 
and some herbaceous plants, particularly a con- 
volvolus, which covers the most sandy spots, a so- 
lanum, a lotus, an aloe, &c. 

Professor Smith and Mr. Tudor, who employed 
the whole of our short stay here in a botanizing 
excursion to the mountains, describe the interior 
of the island as more pleasing than the sea shores. 
The valleys, as they ascended from the inferior 
region, being well watered by springs forming 
little brooks, and covered with plantations of fruits 
and vegetables ; the hills well clothed with grass, 
affording pasture to numerous herds of cattle and 
flocks of sheep. The result of Dr. Smith's botani- 
cal researches is thus stated by him.* " The Cape 
de Verde islands, though situated nearly in the 
middle of the northern equinoctial zone, and se- 
parated only by a distance of 120 leagues from the 
broadest part of Africa, in their climate and ve- 
getation approach nearer to the temperate regions 
than to the tropical. In the opposite countries of 
Senegambia, the rains and the hottest season ar- 
rive together, and continue during the months of 
May, June, and July. In the Cape Verde islands, 
on the contrary, the rains do not set in until the 
middle of August, (when they are about to cease 
in Senegambia,) and continue with intermissions 

* It may be necessary to observe, that though Dr. Smith un-. 
derstands and speaks the language with great correctness, he, 
as may be expected in a foreigner, does not write it with equal 
facility; hence I have been obliged to put the written observa- 
tions he has furnished me with into a more correct form as to 
manner, the matter being entirely his own. 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 99 

until January or February. On our arrival at Porto 
Praya, the dry season had therefore commenced 
two months; some of the indigenous trees and 
shrubs had just lost their leaves, and a few had 
put forth new ones ; all the perennial plants were 
m seed, and all the annual nearly dried up, the 
vegetation being in the same state as in June and 
July in the Canary islands. 

" Even in the dry season the atmosphere of the 
Cape Verdes is extremely humid, for the air being 
heated over tlie broadest part of Africa, a great 
capacity for imbibing moisture is thereby acquired, 
and in passing over the sea it is saturated to the 
highest point, so that the least diminution of tem- 
perature causes it to deposite abundant vapour. 
Not only the highest point of St. J ago, (Pico de 
San Antonio,) which has about 4500 feet of eleva- 
tion, but also the whole central ridge of hills, 
down to 1400 feet, are usually enveloped in clouds 
from 10 o'clock in the morning. This humidity 
clothes the hills with thick pasture grass, giving to 
the country a feature entirely unlooked for in so 
low a latitude and of so small an elevation above 
the sea. 

" It is also this moist atmosphere that causes the 
mean temperature of the island to be so much less 
than that of Senegambia. According to Humboldt's 
new scale of mean temperature^, the curve will in- 
tersect the latitude of St. Jago at 27° of the centi- 
grade thermometer, (80° 7' of Farenheit,) which 
is probably the middle between the iso-thermome- 
ter of the island and of Senegambia, the latter 
being probably not less than 30° centig. (86^^ of 
Fahrenheit.) On the 10th of April the tempera- 
ture of the well in the valley of Trinidad was 2.5° 
centig. (73" Fahrenheit,) the well being two or 
4hree fathoms deep, and the afflux of water con- 



100 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

siderable, as it supplies the whole town. It is pro- 
bable that this is about the mean temperature of 
the well throughout the year, and that we shall 
not be far wrong in considering it also as the iso- 
therm, of the lower parts of the island.* 

" The nature of the vegetation is here, as well 
as every where else, the truest criterion of the cli- 
mate. Few of the undoubtedly indigenous plants 
can be called tropical ; on the contrary, the flora of 
the island is poor in some families which occupy a 
large portion of tropical vegetation in general; such, 
for instance, as the Composita, while it is much richer 
in others chiefly found in temperate climates, as 
the LabiatcB. Few of the plants of the hotter re- 
gions of Africa are found here ; but a much greater 
number of species similar, or allied to, those of the 
temperate extremities of this continent, and of the 
Canary islands in particular. The number of these 
increase in ascending from the low grounds, to the 
hills of second magnitude, where they are succeed- 
ed partly by European and partly by other Cana- 
rian plants to the height of 3000 feet, which was 
the greatest elevation I reached. 

" St. J ago, though enjoying the genial influence 
of a tropical sun, seems to be poor in indigenous 
plants, as is indeed usually the case with islands at 
any considerable distance from a continent. But 
though nature is not here spontane(5)usly produc- 
tive, she has adopted every plant, w hich has been 
brought to the island either by accident or design. 
Thus the most prevalent species are exotic, and 
chiefly introduced from the other Portuguese colo- 
nies, particularly from the Brazils and the Malabar 

* On board the ship in the bay at 2 o'clock in the afternoon, 
the thermometer was 70°, while in the town of Porto Praya it 
\^as at the same time 84°. 



CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. IQl 

coast. The Jatropha curcas. probably first brought 
here for its seeds, which afford a good oil, forms 
thickets in the valleys and on the sides of the hills ; 
the Anona tripetala is also common in the same wild 
state, and in similar situations. The Justicin mala" 
barica covers all the fields and bottoms of the val- 
leys. The Argemone mexicana is dispersed in every 
direction ; and the Cassia occidentalis is scattered 
amongst the rocks round Porto Praya. Three spe- 
cies oi' Sida^ the canariensis being most abundant 
(and even more so than in the Canaries) and one 
species of Malva^ also very prevalent, are probably 
from America. 

" The principal indigenous plants in the lower 
region, are a species of Mimosa^ which I have 
named glandidosa ; a Convolvolus^ which is doubtful, 
and may also be American ; a Zizyphus resembling 
the vulgaris. Spermacoce verticilata, said to be com- 
mon in the West Indies and Africa : Momordica se- 
negalensis, and Cardiospermum hirsutum^ both of Se- 
negal, and Lotus jacoboiiis. In the hilly region some 
indigenous plants cover large tracts, resembling, by 
this character of aggregation in one place, the 
vegetation of temperate climates. A new species 
of Pennisetum covers all the hills, having no other 
resemblance to tropical grasses, than its height and 
ramified stems. Among the many Canarian plants, 
I looked long for the family of Euphorbia^ so preva- 
lent in the Canaries ; but at the height of about 
1600 feet I at length found the sides of the hills and 
small valleys covered with large bushes of a Thyma- 
lea^ resembling the piscatoria^ but the identity diffi- 
cult to be established. A Sideroxylon^ I was told, 
formed thickets on the highest mountains, but I saw 
only one sterile plant resembling the Marmulana 
of Madeira. 



102 CAPTAIN TUCKEY^S NARRATIVE. 

" I have, in the following table,* divided the ve-- 
getation of St. Jago into two regions only, and doubt 
if the plants of the Pico de San Antonio differ suffi- 
ciently to form a third. 1 must however observe, 
that a two days excursion, in the dry season, and in 
one of the least fertile parts of one island only, is by 
no means sufficient to establish a physical arrange- 
ment of the flora of the islands in general, where 
such diflference of localities exist as in the burning 
peak of Fogo, and the wooded mountains of the 
island of San Antonio. Indeed, from the little I had 
time to observe, I am convinced that a. botanist 
would have his labour well repaid should he give 
a sufficient time to the examination of the vegeta- 
ble reign of these islands ; nor can I help being 
surprised that no one has yet turned his attention 
towards them." 

With respect to the cultivated vegetables, Dr. 
Smith observes, "Cultivation is only seen in the 
glens or ravines, which are watered by rills from 
the mountains. In the upper and wider part of the 
valley of Trinidad, we first met with plantations of 
Indian corn, cassava, sugar cane. Arum esculentum^ 
and pine apples. Cotton and indigo had also been 
formerly planted in some spots of the valley, but 
being neglected, a few plants run wild are now only 
to be seen. On the sides of the brooks grow luxu- 
riantly the fig, lemon, orange, papaw, (An&na triloba^ 
custard apple, (e/^nona africana^ the tamarind, guava, 
plantain, and banana, {Cassia fistula,) and prickly 
pear (^Cactus opunila). Near one of the country 
houses we saw some Ailajitlms glandtilosa Ximenia 
amertcana, and a few grape vines. Besides the date 
palm, which grows in abundance in the sands near 
Porto Praya, some tall cocoa palms are scattered 

^ Inserted in Professor Smith's Journal.. 



CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. 103 

here and there, and bear ripe fruit at the elevation 
of 800 feet above the sea. A single palmyra (i?o- 
rassus flabcUiformis) was seen. 

'* On some spots of the elevated grassy hills, roots 
and vegetables are cultivated with great success ; 
we saw^ no traces of other Ccrealia than Indian corn, 
but were told that wheat succeeds perfectly when 
sown in the dry plains in the rainy season, as does 
rice in the lowest and wettest grounds ; but the 
islands being suppUed with corn irom America, in 
return for their salt and mules,, the indolent inhabi- 
tants do not think of cultivating either. The in- 
habitants we conversed with were entirely ignorant 
of any tree affording dragon's blood, though the 
Draccvna draco is said to be found in these islands, 
as well as Madeira and the Canaries. 

" The deep valley of St. Domingo, on the east side 
of the island, which we saw beneath us from the 
mountains, and that of Ribeira on the south-west 
side, w^e w ere assured are better watered, more fer- 
tile, and more extensively cultivated than that of 
Trinidad." 

Dr. Smith remarks of the geological features of 
the island, that " the Cape Verdes, like all the 
African Atlantic islands, are of a sub-marine vol- 
canic origin, and mostly of the basaltic formation. 
Few of them seem to have had super-marine erup- 
tions, and perhaps the cone of Fogo, which rises 
above 7000 feet, and still smokes, is the only one. 
The forms of the four high north-western islands, 
and of Brava, as represented in the charts, lead to 
the belief that they do not differ essentially in struc- 
ture li'om the basaltic mountains of St. Jago, and it 
is probable that Mayo is similar to the inferior re- 
gion of the latter island. 

" The south-east and south coasts of St. Jago are 
surrounded by steep and often perpendicular rocky 



104 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE, 

cliffs of a few fathoms in height, from which the 
land rises towards the mountains, in a generally 
flat surface, with a few hills covered bj loose frag- 
ments and furrowed with ravines. 

" The valley of Trinidad, the largest and deepest 
ravine in the south side of the island, commences 
at the sandy beach of Porto Praya, and runs S.S. W. 
and N.N. E., with its upper extremity bent to the 
E. N. E. until it is lost in sloping hills. It is gene- 
rally covered with volcanic fragments. 

" The central ridge of hills follows nearly the 
largest diameter of the island from S. E. to N. W., 
but nearest to the eastern coast, with sloping sides 
to the west, and having many steep basaltic rocks, 
and well watered valleys or ravines to the east. 
The peak of St. Antonio rises above the other 
mountains in an oblique, conical, sharp-pointed 
form, to the height of about 4500 feet. 

'^ The sea rocks round Porto Praya expose five 
strata to view ; 1st, or lowest, a conglomerate passing 
into pumice tufa; 2d, pumice ; 3d, a thin layer of 
porous basalt ; 4th, columnar basalt; and 5th, or up- 
permost, a basalt-like substance^ which from its con- 
centrical and globular forms, seems to have been 
in a semifluid state. Farther inland, the basaltic 
strata sometimes contain olivin and augite^ and more 
rarely amphibole. About a league up the valley, on 
its western border, are huge rocks, which cause a 
bending in its direction, and which are composed 
of a deep red quartz^ with crystals oifeltspar ; about 
two leagues up are found loose masses of lava, the 
cells sometimes empty, sometimes filled with crys- 
tals of mesotype. To the west, I observed at some 
distance a discoloured appearance, not unlike a 
lava stream, and not far distant from some conical 
hills, in the direction of the Peak of Fogo; but the 
Stinted time did not admit of examining if these 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 105 

were the vestiges of an eruption. In two or three 
places I met beds of a compact feltspar^ mostly de- 
composed into a white earth. 1 was also told of a 
bed of shells among some hills, not far distant from 
the pl^ce named Toara^ but which the same reason 
prevented me from verifying." 

The island appears to be scantily supplied with 
birds, either as to species or numbers ; those seen 
were three species of falco ; the first a fishing eagle, 
common at Porto Praya ; the second ash-coloured, 
of a large size, seen only on shore ; and the third, 
which was shot on shore, nearly resembled the 
sparrow-hawk. The small birds, of which speci- 
mens were shot, were a fine king fisher {Alcedo)^ 
very common ; the common swift {Hirundo apis f) 
a sparrow differing little from the European house 
sparrow ; a bird resembling the lark ; and a very 
small warbler, the only one that appeared to have 
any song. Some covies of Guinea fowl were seen, 
but too shy to be shot at; and the common quail 
was also seen. The greater tropic bird, {Phaeton 
ethcms) breeds in the crevices of the elevated 
rocks near the shores, but was not at this time 
numerous. 

Fish are tolerably abundant in the bay, and the 
seine may be hauled with good success, either in a 
sandy cove on the west side of the east point of 
the bay, or on the beach west of the town ; the 
latter appearing preferable, the former being sub- 
ject to a sudden rise of surf, when the sea breeze 
blows fresh. Of nine species of fish which we 
took, three only were familiar to us, viz. a young 
white shark, (Squalus carcharias) barracoota, or 
barracuda and gray mullet. The others we 
were prevented from examining by a mistake of 
the cabin steward, who (supposing they were 
selected and put by for the purpose) caused these 



106 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

specimens to be drest for dinner. Although th'e 
most rigid catholics, the inhabitants seem to make 
fish a very small portion of their general food, a 
single boat alone going out to fish in deep water ; 
and the few fish we observed on shore were taken 
as we understood by hook and line from the rocks. 
The Governor, however, on learning that we had 
hauled the seine with success, let us know that it 
was customary to pay him the compliment of a 
dish of fish, which through ignorance we had omit- 
ted. Of crustaceous fish, we only took a prawn 
four inches long, a few small crabs among the 
rocks, and a species of land crab. The testaceous 
mollusca collected among the rocks were not 
numerous, consisting oi patella^ buccina^ turbo^ trochii^ 
and dead shells of cones. Two species of sea e^g 
(echinus) were also found on the rocks. 

The insects seen (besides the common fly of a 
small size, and neither numerous nor troublesome,) 
%vere several kinds of grasshoppers {grylli)^ three 
or four species of coleopterous insects, among which 
was a small beetle (Scarabceus)^ and some moths 
and butterflies. The only reptile seen was the 
common stone lizard. 

Porto Praya has been so often visited by our na- 
vigators, that it may be supposed they have left 
litlle room for new nautical observations ; the di- 
rections for knowing the bay are indeed so minute 
and various, as to confuse rather than assist a 
stranger; it seems however to have been forgotten, 
that one marked and prominent feature is a better 
guide than a number of trivial appearances, which 
may change with the position of the observer. 

It seems to be quite sufficient to inform the navi- 
gator, that the S.E. point of the island is seen as a 
very long and very low point in coming from the 
north or south -, that to the west of this point, three 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 107 

or four miles, is a bay with a broAvn sandy beach, 
a building, and a grove of date (not cocoa-nut)* 
trees; that this first bay must not be mistaken for 
thatof Porto Praya, as its east point is surrounded by 
rocks that do not always break ; that after passing 
this bay you may keep along shore towards Porto 
Praya within li mile, or in 10 fathoms. This last 
bay is first distinguished by a battery of earth or 
brown stones on its west point, off which the sea 
always breaks to some distance. In standing on, 
round the east point of the bay, (which is safe, and 
should be rounded in seven or eight fathoms, or 
within a cable's length,) the brown sandy beach 
opens, on which is first seen a house or shed, then 
a grove of date (not cocoa-nut) trees, and shortly 
after the fort itself. 

With respect to anchorage, it may be proper to 
observe, that a large ship should lay well out, and 
near the east shore, in order to ensure her weather- 
ing the w^est point of the bay, should the wind be 
light, or far to the east, as is often the case. The 
best birth I conceive to be with the flag-staff of the 
fort N.W. by W., the east point of the bay E.S.E. and 
the S.W. point W.S.W. in seven or eight fathoms. 
The ground is coarse sand and gravel, that does 
not hold well ; consequently it requires a good 
scope of cable to bring the snip up in a fresh sea 
breeze. It is also adviseable to drop a kedge an- 
chor to the west to steady the ship, and keep the 
bower anchor clear, when at times in the forenoon 
the wind is light from the west. 

There is always some surf on the beach, so that 
it is proper to have grapnels in the boats going on 
ghore. When the surf is high, there is a good land- 

* This mistake is made in all the directions for Porto Prayu 
that I have seen ; the trees are however sufficiently differetitt- 
in appearance^ to render the correction proper. 



108 CAPTAIN TUGKEV'S NARRATIVE. 

ing place at a rock east of the town, where a path- 
way is seen. It is also very necessary to be cautious 
in carrying sail in boats, the puffs of wind from the 
high lands being very dangerous, as we experi- 
enced by the oversetting of the gig, by which Lieu- 
tenant Hawkey was nearly drowned. Two other 
boats were also nearly lost in the surf, by which 
unlucky accidents my own watch and four others 
were totally spoiled, causing, in our situation, a 
very serious and irremediable evil. 

Refreshments for a ship's crew are by no means 
to be procured at Porto Praya on reasonable terms; 
for lean bullocks of 2501b. weight they at this time 
expected 40 dollars ; for long-haired African sheep, 

4 dollars each ; milch goats, 2 to 3 dollars ; pigs 
of 50lb. (a long-legged and long-sided breed), 

5 dollars; large turkeys, Ij dollar each; small 
long-legged fowls, 6 for a dollar. A few Muscovy 
ducks were seen in the country, but no geese. For 
bullocks or sheep, bills or cash are alone taken; 
but all other stock, as well as fruit and vegetables, 
which usually belong to negroes, may be most ad- 
vantageously procured in exchange for any articles 
of wearing apparel, or for blankets. Monkeys are 
offered for sale by every negro, and unless a prohi- 
bition is issued, the seamen will always fill a ship 
with these mischievous animals. The only species 
here is the green monkey {Cercoptihems sabceus). 



[ 109 ] 
CHAPTER II. 

Passage from Porto Praya to the Mouth of the Zaire. 

Having completed the Congo's caulking in the 
evening of the 10th, I should have quitted Porto 
Praya the following morning, but it being Holy 
Thursday, consequently a great festival with Ca- 
tholics, all the free inhabitants, drest in their best 
attire, were occupied the whole day in church ce- 
remonies, which not permitting them to attend to 
worldly concerns, we could not get oue business 
settled on shore, and were therefore obliged to de- 
fer sailing until the next day, in the afternoon of 
which we again got to sea. 

In compliment to the religion of the place, we 
this morning, it being Good Friday, hoisted the 
colours half-mast, the fort having done so, and the 
Portuguese vessels putting themselves in mourning 
by topping their yards up and down. 

At sunset the Peak of Fogo was seen nineteen 
leagues distant. 

A moderate trade-wind between N. E. and E. N. 
E. continued until the 18th, when in latitude 7t°, 
longitude 18° W., we lost it, and got into the region 
of light variable breezes and very sultry weather, 
the thermometer rising in the afternoon to 82° and 
84° ; the temperature of the sea being 80° and 81°; 
during the nights constant faint lightning witliout 
thpnder. Many porpoises {Delpldnus phocena)^ fly- 
ing fish, and tropic birds were now seen, and a 
swallow rested on the yards when 250 miles dis- 
tant from the land. From the 1 5th to the 1 9th the 
'^ea represented a continual succession or riplings, 

4 



110 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

and on trying the current with a boat, it was found 
to set to the S. E., at the rate of three quarters of 
a mile an hour, nearly agreeing with our chrono- 
meters. 

The towing net, which was kept constantly 
overboard, gave us for the first time on the 18th, 
great numbers of perfectly diaphanous Crustacea, 
resembling insects of glass ; they were of four dif- 
ferent species, and considered by Dr. Smith, as 
belonging to the genus Scyllarus. (La Marck,* p. 
156.) We also took a small squalus, of a species 
new to us, and which from the form of its teeth 
may be named Squalus serratus. 

On the 19th the first deluge of rain was expe- 
rienced in a heavy squall from N. E', and was the 
commencement of that succession of squalls, calms, 
and rains, which would seem to be entailed as an 
everlasting curse on this region of the Atlantic ; in 
consequence of which, from this time till we pass- 
ed the meridian of Cape Palmas, our progress was 
exceedingly slow, never exceeding 40 miles a day, 
and sometimes making no progress at all. The 
winds, when there were any, were between E. N. 
E. and S. W., but mostly southerly. Our only amuse- 
ment now was the taking of sharks, all of the white 
species (carcharius)^ except one of the blue (^glau- 
cus)^ and the only one seen during the passage; 
the largest of the former was a male, ten feet long, 
the latter a female impregnated, seven feet long ; 
she was unattended either by pilot-fish or sucking- 
fish, while the white sharks had many of both ac- 
companying or attached to them. It w as observed 
of the pilot-fish (Gastorosteus ductor)^ that they took 
especial care to keep out of the way of the shark's 

* Similar Crustacea were taken during the rest,of the passage 
in greater or less numbers until we made the continent of Africa. 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. H] 

mouth, generally playing over the hinder part of 
his head. The shark was also observed to lift the 
head above water and seize objects floating, with- 
out any change of position. One shark was seen to 
leap out of the water and seize a small albicore 
while it was itself in pursuit of a flying-fish. 

The first bonitos {Scomber pelamis) were seen on 
the 25th, in latitude 5° 53., and many cavally or 
shipjack sported after show^ers of rain, while flocks 
of tropic and other oceanic birds hovered over the 
riplings they caused, in order to seize the flying 
fish frightened from their element. 

On the 26th, in latitude 6° 16', longitude 13° 45', 
the temperature of the sea at the depth of 220 
feet was 64°, that of the surface being 80°, and of 
the air 81°. 

Since the commencement of the rains every ad- 
ditional precaution was taken to guard against the 
eflfects of the damp sultry weather on the people; 
they were never exposed to the rain when it could 
be avoided, and when unavoidably whetted, they 
were obliged to put on dry clothes as soon as pos- 
sible, occasionally receiving a small glass of spirits 
when shifl;ed. The humidity of the air between 
decks was dried up between frequent fires, and the 
bedding often aired. The large quantity of water 
I had shipped in the river enabled me to afford a 
proportion for washing the people's clothes twice 
a week, until now, when the rain w ater saved by 
awnings was put by for the purpose. 

From the very commencement of the voyage, I 
had much difficulty in forcing the observance of 
general regulations for cleanliness, and the conse- 
quent preservation of health on the transport's 
crew ; for the master and mates, like the generali- 
ty of merchant seamen, considering all such regu- 
lations as useless, took no steps to enforce them. 



112 CAPTMN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

nor could I even get the hammocks brought on 
deck after our arrival in the warm latitudes, until 

1 had recourse to coercion, and the punishment at 
the gangway of one of the most refractory of the 
crew, which effectually broke up the confederacy 
that seemed to have been formed to resist all my 
orders on this subject. 

The currents, from leaving Porto Praya until in 
latitude 6°, longitude 15°, set to the south and S. 
E. ; they then changed to the N. E. and E. N. E., 
with various degrees of velocity, from 8 to 40 miles 
a day, and retained this direction until we made 
Prince's Island. 

The winds until the 5th of May, when we cross- 
ed the meridian of Cape Palmas, at the distance 
of 15 leagues from that Cape, were very light and 
variable, between south and S. W. The greatest 
heat of the atmosphere was 85° in a clear calm at 

2 p. M., and the least 74° after heavy rain ; the rain 
water as it fell being at 75°. The various trials of 
the temperature of the sea gave between 81° and 
82° at the surface, and 63° to 64° at the depth of 
200 fathoms. A large shoal of the bottle-nose por- 
poise or dolphin of naturalists, {Delphinus delphis) 
was seen ; flocks of tropic birds, and a few men- 
of-war birds {Pelicanus aqmla)now also accompanied 
our course. It was observed that the former bird 
fishes in the manner of the gull, flying low, and 
seizing its prey only at the surface, and often sitting 
on the water ; while the man-of-war bird soars very 
high, hovers on the wing like the kite, and darts 
perpendicularly on its prey, diving after, and car- 
rying away, the largest flying-fish into the air. 

After passing Cape Palmas, the light southerly 
air was succeeded by moderate breezes from S. S. 
W. and S. W. with which we stood close hauled 
across the Gulf of Guinea ; but the strong N. E, 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 113 

currents prevented our making any southing. The 
weather, in crossing the Gulf, was always extreme- 
ly cloudy, with frequent drops of rain, and much 
less sultry, the thermometer varying between 
80° and 78°. 

May 6th. Until this time the Naturalists were 
obliged to content themselves with the small ani- 
mals the towing net afforded them, but they were 
now gratified by the capture of albicore and 
bonito, many of both being taken by the grains 
and hook. The most apparent distinctive charac- 
ters of these two species of the Scomber s.re the fol- 
lowing. The albicore {Scomber thynnus) hdiS 14 rays 
in the first dorsal fin, 8 small false fins on the back, 
and the same number on the under side ; the dor- 
sal, anal, and false fins are strongly tinged with 
orange, the under part of the sides of the fish 
marked with transverse whitish stripes, the palate 
studded with bony points. The foremost dorsal 
fin of the bonito (Sc, pelamis) has 1 6 rays, the false 
fins are eight on the back, and only seven beneatli. 
These fins have no orange tinge ; the under sides 
are marked longitudinally with four black stripes, 
and the palate is quite smooth. 

If the esteemed tunny-fish of the Mediterranean 
and the albicore of the Atlantic be the same spe- 
cies, there seems to be an enormous difference in 
their sizes. The tunny-fish arriving at the weight 
of 8 to 12 cwt. while the largest albicore I have 
ever seen taken it\ the Atlantic weighed but IGOlbs. 
and the most common weight was between 30 and 
40lbs. and these latter were evidently full grown 
fish. 

On the 1 1 th we had full moon, and the same 
day and the next, such heavy rains fell, tliat I fear- 
ed the wet season had already set in to the north 
of the line, we being on this day in 2f N. and \\° 



114 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

E. By a rain gauge made on board, we found that, 
on the morning of the 12th, between one and four 
o'clock, the water that fell from the heavens was 
equal to 3^ inches. On this day died Joseph Bur- 
gess, seaman, of the Congo ; on opening him, his 
death was found to have been occasioned by a 
disease of the heart caused by the ancient rup- 
ture of a blood vessel. 

Though the rains lasted but two days, seven of 
the transport's crew were already attacked by 
fevers, more or less serious, all of which were to 
be traced to their sleeping on the wet decks, and 
to the neglect of changing themselves after being 
exposed to the rain during the day. The almost 
inevitable bad consequences of carelessness in 
these respects, may be estimated by the state 
of the thermometer at night in various parts of the 
ship. In the space called between decks, where 
the people slept, it was 88*^, in my cabin 79*" or 80°. 
On deck 73° to 77°. The great evaporation from 
the decks, &c. after rain, being found to lower the 
thermometer a degree or more below the tempe- 
rature of the rain in falling. With respect to my 
own people, I obliged them to wear flannel next 
their skin, in addition to the other precautionary 
regulations ; and the good effect of these precau- 
tions was fully evinced in the continued good 
health of the crew, one or two only (and these 
were proved to have neglected them) being slightly 
attacked with symptoms of fever, which gave way 
by immediate bleeding, and gentle cathartics. 

May 14. The bird named booby {Pekcanus sula) 
now frequently settled on the yards in the dusk of 
the evening, and two of them were taken ; the ex- 
ternal characters of these birds seem by no means 
to authorize their being placed in the genus of Pe- 
lican. Of the two individuals now taken, the largest 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATDTE. 115 

measured 18 inches from the point of the bill to 
the extremity of the tail, and weighed 7 ounces ; 
the plumage a rusty brown, deepest and rather 
glossy on the upper side of the wing quill fea- 
thers, the crown of the head only being of a dove 
colour, lightest towards the forehead. The upper 
sides of the wing quill feathers black, the under side 
a dirty white; the bill conical, slightly curved; 
the nostrils very open, being two wide longitudinal 
shts on the sides of, and about the middle of the 
upper mandible; the eye a dark brown approach- 
ing to black, surrounded by a circle of minute 
white feathers ; three toes full webbed, the fourth 
toe behind very small, and quite free ; bill and 
legs black. This specimen on examination proved 
to be a full grown male. 

The second specimen, which was found to be a 
young female, was somewhat less than the first; the 
dove colour on the crown of the head was deeper, 
nearly mixing with the general brown ; and the cir- 
cle of minute feathers round the eye was black ; it 
differed in no other respects from the male. These 
birds were observed generally in pairs; they fly 
close to the water, with the neck stretched out 
and the tail spread. 

On the 16th, at day-light, Prince's island was in 
sight, bearing S. E. 12 or 14 leagues ; our approach 
to it the preceding day having been denoted by 
great numbers of fishing birds, apparently different 
species of gulls. 

The swarms of albicore round the ship were now 
such as almost to justify the hyperbole of the ir ob- 
structing the ship's way ; and twenty a day .\ as the 
usual success of our fishery with hook and line, the 
flying-fish found within them serving as bait. The 
^proportion of bonito appeared to be small, not one 
being taken to 10 albicores. The tlying-fish, in en- 



116 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

deavouring to escape from their cruel enemies^ 
skimmed the surface like flights of birds, and it was 
observed, that when they rose in the direction of 
the wind, they could reach a considerable distance, 
but when against the wind, they dropped again al- 
most immediately ; when the rise was in an oblique 
direction to the wind, they sometimes described a 
considerable curve, until they got before the wind, 
and this without any assistance from the wings, the 
only movement of these members being at the mo- 
ment of their quitting the water, when they had for 
a few instants a quick fluttering motion. Four dif- 
ferent species of these fish were taken. 

After passing Cape Palmas and entering the 
Gulf of Guinea, the sea appeared of a whitish co- 
lour, growing more so until making Prince's island, 
and its luminosity also increasing, so that at night 
the ship seemed to be sailing in a sea of milk. In 
order to discover the cause of these appearances, 
a bag of bunting, the mouth extended by a hoop, 
was kept overboard, and in it were collected vast 
numbers of animals of various kinds, particularly 
pellucid Salpce, with innumerable little crustaceous 
animals of the Scyllarus genus attached to them, to 
which I think the whitish colour of the water may 
be principally ascribed. Of Cancers^ we reckoned 
thirteen different species, eight having the shape 
of crabs, and five that of shrimps, and none more 
than a quarter of an inch in length ; among them 
the Cancer fulgens was conspicuous. In another 
species (when put into the microscope by candle 
light), the luminous property was observed to be 
in the brain, which, when the animal was at rest, 
resembled a most brilliant amethyst about the size 
of a large pin's head, and from which, when it 
moved, darted flashes of a brilliant silvery light. 
Beroes, beautiful holothurias, and various gelati- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 117 

nous animals were also taken up in great numbers. 
Indeed the Gulf of Guinea appears to be a most 
prolific region in these sort of animals ; and I have 
no doubt but the marine entomologist would here 
be able to add immensely to this branch of natural 
history. As it was found impossible to preserve the 
far greater number of these animals, by reason of 
their delicate organization, the spirit of wine dis- 
solving some, and extracting the colours of others, 
and as most of them require the aid of a microscope 
to describe them, a great portion of them were lost 
on us, from the want of a person either to describe 
or draw tliem from that instrument. 

Light baffling winds from south to S. W. kept us 
insight of Prince's island until the 18th, when a 
hard squall from the S. E. brought to our view that 
of St. Thomas, which at day-light on the 19th bore 
S. by W., distant 19 leagues. We were again 
plagued with light winds for two days off this island, 
when another squall from the S. E. ran us clear of 
it to the west ; but the wind soon returning to south, 
and blowing fresh, we were unable to weather it, 
and I thought itadviseable to stand off to the W.vS.W. 
in the hope of making southing; accordingly we 
crossed the line in this course on the 23d, and in 
the meridian of 4J^ E. 

From the time of our making St. Thomas, we ex- 
perienced a current setting to the W. N. W., 
increasing in velocity as we went to the westward, 
until on the line it set 33 miles in 24 hours. Find- 
ing we made little southing, the wind still hanging 
obstinately at south, we tacked on the 24th to the 
eastward, and on the 27th passed to the south of St. 
Thomas, within 5 leagues, our latitude being 0° 17' 
S., so that we had gained but 45 miles southing in 
six days, o^\ing to the strong northerly currents, 



118 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

although in this track the latest chart of the Atlan- 
tic marks a strong southerly current. 

While in sight of the tv\ o islands above-mention- 
ed, the weather was so very cloudy that we could 
see little more than their outlines. Towards the 
south end of Prince's island are two whitish ra- 
vines ; but whether this colour is from the nature 
of the ground, or from the excrement of birds (of 
which there are immense numbers round the 
island) we could not ascertain. St. Thomas, 
which we approached within 7 or 8 miles, appears 
to be wooded up to the summit of what is rather 
improperly called the Peak of St. Anna, being lit- 
tle conical, but rather a round topped mountain, of 
the probable elevation of 7 or 8000 feet, with a 
gap in the summit. Off the north end, the rock or 
islet named Mono Cacada (significant I suppose of 
its being covered with the dung of birds), leaves a 
considerable open space between it and the main 
island. 

Our chronometers gave the longitude of the north 
end of Prince's island 7° ; the variation, by the 
mean of many observations, 21° 22' W. The same 
watch makes the N. W. point of St. Thomas in 
6° 31', and RoUe's island, at the south end, in 6°44'; 
the variation at this end of the island 22" 7'. 

The winds now came on more westerly, but 
were at the same time so light, that our progress 
was most tiresomely slow ; I therefore determined 
to make the continent, in the hope of finding land 
and sea breezes in shore ; and accordingly we first 
saw it on the morning of 3d of June, and at noon 
w^ere three leagues off shore in 16 fathoms, lati- 
tude observed 2° 10* S. ; the land very low and en- 
tirely covered with wood. 

The atmosphere for the two days before making 
the land, had become so saturated with moisture* 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 119 

that the hygrometer at noon marked 5°, and the 
thermometer stood at 71°. At 7 o'clock in the 
evening a dew, little less penetrating than rain, 
began to fall, and continued the whole night, w ith 
so sensible a degree of cold, that instead of melt- 
ing under an equinoctial sun in the lightest cloth- 
ing, as our gentlemen expected, they were glad to 
resume their woollens. 

The albicores w hich had accompanied us in vast 
shoals to the edge of soundings, and were taken in 
such numbers, that besides being consumed fresh 
to satiety, the crews of both vessels pickled and 
salted several barrels, now entirely disappeared, 
and with them the sea birds; tlie white colour of 
the water changed to the oceanic blue before we 
struck soundings, the marine animals much de- 
creased, and the sea lost a great portion of its lu- 
minosity. 

From the 3d to the 8th we were plagued with 
light airs, veering towards midnight to the west as 
far as S.W., and having for an hour or two suffi- 
cient strength to send the ship two or three miles 
an hour, then again dying away to light airs, which 
in the morning veered to south and S.S.E. ; these 
variations being the only signs of the mutual re- 
action of the land and sea on the atmosphere ; and 
indeed we experienced similar variations morning 
and evening since making Prince's island. 

The nature of this part of the coast is doubtless 
the cause of the want of more marked alternate 
breezes from the land and sea: here the land is 
very low, and entirely overgrow^n with w ood, w hich 
causes the atmosphere over it to preserve nearly 
an equal temperature day and night; this tempe- 
rature by reason of the great evaporation from 
the wood (which, as I before observed, saturates 
the atmosphere with moisture), seems even for the 



120 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. ^ ^ , 

greater part of 24 hours somewhat less than that 
of the sea ; and hence the light breezes that blow 
from the land, or between south and S.E. for 18 
hours of the 24, or from six o'clock in the morning 
until midnight, when the evaporation having ceased 
for some hours over the land, the temperature be- 
comes a little higher than that of the sea, and pro- 
duces a short and weak breeze from the latter. 

The general range of the thermometer while in 
with the land was at 6 A. M. 7P; at 2 P. M. 13^; 
at 9 P. M. 70°; the temperature of the sea at 2 
P. M. 72°. The hygrometer varied during the day 
from 5° to 15°. 

The dredge was put overboard, and brought up 
two or three species of echini^ some small cancri^ 
bits of coral, &:c. While in soundings no fish were 
seen, nor any birds except an occasional solitary 
tropic bird or pair of boobies. 

The longitude of the coast in the latitude of 2° 10' 
S. our chronometers make 9° 40', and by and D 
9° 51'. The bank of soundings stretches off about 
10 leagues from the land, deepening regularly as 
follows. 

Fathoms. 

About 9 miles offshore, 16, oozy sand. 

18 do. 30, brown sand. 

24 do. 47, do. and broken shells. 

28 do. 67, do. 

30 do. no bottom at 120. 

Although we took every advantage of the varia- 
tions of the wind, to stand off and in shore, the 
lightness of the breezes, and the daily current of 
fifteen miles to the north and N. N. E. permitting us 
barely to hold our ground, I determined again to 
stand off out of soundings, in the hope of losing the 
current and getting fresher breezes. In both res- 
pects I was, however, disappointed ; for though 
the current became more westerly as we went off 



f. 9- CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 121 

shore, its velocity increased at the same time to 30 
and 40 miles a day. The winds still remaining 
very light in the morning from S. S. E., and from 
S. S. W. in the evening, while the transport being 
extremely leewardly, and both she and the Congo 
sailing very badly in light winds, our progress was 
slower than ever. In this choice of difiicnlties I 
again stood in for tl^ land, hoping, that as we were 
now past the low land to the north of Loango, we 
should meet more regular land and sea breezes. 
We in consequence made the land on the 18th in 
3° 21'; thus having gained but 75 miles southing in 
15 days, by working out of soundings. 

In this most tedious fortnight we found little to 
amuse us ; birds and fishes seemed to have for- 
saken this region ; a single swallow or martin be- 
ing the only one of the former seen ; the towing 
net, however, again afforded us abundance of ma- 
rine animals, amongst which were many of the pa- 
per nautilus {Argonauta sulcata)^ with the living 
animals, which, in contradiction to the opinion of 
the French naturalists, proved to be perfect Octo- 
pi* When Ibrty leagues from the land, several 
lloatiitg patches of reeds and trees passed us, 
proving, if our chronometers had not shown it, the 
existence of a strong western current. The day 
we made the la«id a dead albatross (^Diomedea 
exulans)^ was picked up floating in a putrid state; 
which seems to show that these birds wander 
farther towards the equator than is generally sup- 
posed. The same day a whale (apparently a spe- 
cies of the Physeter^ having large hinnps behind the 
back fin), struck our rudder with his tail in rising, 
and one of these fish rose directly under the Con- 
go ; and, according to the expression of those on 

* L'animal qui forme cette coqnille ne peut etre un poulpe 
La Marck, Animaux sans Verttbres, p. 99. 



122 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

board her, lifted her almost out of the water. 
These animals indeed were now extremely nume- 
rous. 

This day a vessel was seen for the first time 
since leaving Porto Praya; from her warlike ap- 
pearance and superior sailing, she was at first sup- 
posed to be a ship of war ; but on approaching us 
she hoistqd English merchant (flours, and keeping 
half gun-shot to windward, we were unable to 
speak her ; nor did she seem to have any desire to 
communicate with us. This circumstance, toge- 
ther with her apparent force and preparation for 
defence, having 18 guns run out of her between- 
deck ports, with the tompions out, left little doubt 
of her being employed in a forced and illicit slave 
trade. Her anchor a-cock-bill, and her tacking 
with the variations of the wind, proved her to be 
working along shore to the south. 

The land and sea breezes, though now more 
regular as to time, (the former setting in about four 
in the morning from N. E. to S. E., and the latter 
from two to four in the evening from S. W.) were so 
faint and of so short duration, that neither afforded 
us a run of more than ten miles, while the current 
setting one mile an hour to the north, we remained 
in sight of Mayumba bay until the 24th, anchoring 
whenever we found we lost ground. 

The land to the north of this bay presents an 
undulating line. Cape Mayumba being the highest 
point, and forming a little hummock. Point Ma- 
tooly, the south point of the bay, also forming a 
hummock, descending gradually to the south into 
a line of low even land. The bight of the bay 
is also low land, with a saddle hillock in the cen- 
tre of the back ground. The whole of this land 
is covered with wood, but is proved to be inhabit- 
ed by the numerous fires seen on the shore, and 



CAPTAIN TtrCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 123 

which were probably intended as signals for us to 
land. 

We now, while at anchor on a sandy bottom, 
took a good number of fish of the Spams genus, 
named by the seamen sea-bream, and light-horse- 
men, the latter, from a reddish protuberance on 
the back of the head (fancifully thought to resem- 
ble a helmet) ; they were taken with the hook close 
to the ground, and baited with fresh pork or their 
own livers; the largest weighed 181bs., and though 
rather dry and insipid, were infinitely preferable 
to the albicore and bonito with which we had been 
surfeited in the gulf of Guinea. Sea birds had al- 
so entirely disappeared, with the exception of an 
occasional tropic bird, and a few o^ Mother Carey'^s 
chickens (storm petterel.) Numbers of insects of 
the genus Tipula were taken from the surface of 
the sea. 

The weather, though now much less damp than 
when we made the land to the north, was still very 
hazy, and the cold even increased, the thermome- 
ter in the day never rising above 73°, and falling 
in the night to 67°. As the moon approached the 
full, the current diminished, and on the 24th a 
more favourable sea breeze than we had hitherto 
experienced, carried us along shore until the 
evening, when we anchored in ten fathoms. The 
land south of Mayumba to 3° 50', has an agreea- 
ble appearance, rising in a series of three or four 
gentle elevations from the sea inland, the farthest 
and highest not deserving the name of hill ; the 
whole covered with wood, except in some spots 
which were bare of wood, and resembled spots of 
burnt-up grass. A sandy beach margins the sea, 
which breaks in a surf that must prevent the ac- 
cess of an European boat, unless some of the 
many projecting points give shelter to coves where 



121 CAPTAIN TUCKErs NARRATIVE. 

a landing may be effected. The soundings are 
here very regular, altering about a fathom in a 
mile, and the depth at six miles off shore ten 
fathoms* The bottom is extremely various, but 
>sand predominates, brown, black, white, with 
sometimes quartz pebbles, small lumps of yellow 
ochre, bits of corals, and fragments of shells of 
the cockle and venus genera. 

Never did lover wait more anxiously for the hour 
of assignation with his mistress, than we now did 
for that of the usual setting in of the sea breeze, 
on which alone we found we must depend to finish 
this eternal passage, for the land winds were so 
faint as not to render us the smallest service, and 
the currents the day after new moon returned with 
increased velocity. 

On the 28th we had reached the latitude of 4° 30', 
and found the land we passed from 3° 50', more 
picturesque than to the north ; the variety of ele- 
vations being here greater, and the clear spaces 
more numerous ; these we were however now led 
to think the signs of barrenness rather than of fer- 
tility, having, when viewed near, the appearance of 
tracts of naked reddish clay. 

We were now opposite to Loango bay, the red 
hills on the north side of which (formed by clay of 
the appearance above mentioned) we anchored 
off, in 16 fathoms mud, at about 8 miles distance. 
The next afternoon, when the sea breeze set in, 
we weighed ; but it again dying away, we found 
ourselves carried towards the land by the current, 
and again let go the anchor in 12 fathoms ; but be- 
fore the ship brought up we were in 8 f xthoms on a 
reef of rocks, over which the current ran to the 
N. N. E. two miles an hour. The south point of the 
bay (Indian Point) bearing S. E. The sea breeze 
freshening, we cut our cable, and leaving the 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 125 

stream anchor behind us, made sail and deepened 
gradually over the rocky bottom until in 12 
^thorns, when it again became soft and mud. 

This reef is in about latitude 4° 30' (an observa- 
tion at noon possibly erring 2 or 3 miles, the hori- 
zon being bad), and it lays seven miles offshore ; 
towards which latter we sounded for three cables 
lengths, and found 7J fathoms ; nor is it probable 
that there is much less until near the shore, be- 
tween which and the ship many whales w ere seen 
sporting, and they doubtless would not go into very 
shoal water. 

The position of Loango bay is most erroneously 
laid down in the latest charts, the latitude of In- 
dian Point being 4° 37' (we were in 4° 39' at noon 
of the 29th, by good observation, when the pitch of 
the point bore E. | S. true bearing). The descrip- 
tion of the land however in Laurie and Whittle's 
chart is sufficiently exact, and particularly so with 
respect to Indian Point, which strongly resembles 
the Bill of Portland, but of a greater length. The 
north side of the bay is formed by reddish land of 
moderate elevation, with ravines or fissures resem- 
bling chalky cliffs discoloured by the weather. 
These high lands descend gradually to the low 
land at the bottom of the bay ; Indian Point also 
falls gradually towards the south into low land en- 
tirely covered with wood. Here the water was 
first observed to have a deep red tinge as if mixed 
w ith blood, but on being examined in a glass was 
found perfectly colourless ; the bottom however 
seems to account for this appearance, being a soft 
mud composed of a reddish clay without the small- 
est mixture of sand, and so smooth that it might be 
laid on as paint. The only fish taken since we have 
been in muddy ground were two toad fish (Diodon) 

6 



126 CAPTAIN TUCKEY^S NARRATIVE, 

and several eels, one of which measured in length 
4 feet 10 inches, and in circumference 7 inches. 

On the 30th June we anchored in the evening 
off Malemha point, in 15 fathoms, and on the morn- 
ing of the 1st, were surprised by a visit from the 
Mafook or king's merchant of Malemha, accompa- 
nied by several other negro gentlemen, and a large 
cortege of attendants in an European built four-oar- 
ed boat and two canoes, one of which latter pre- 
ceded the boat to announce the great man, and the 
officer in her introduced himself by letting us know, 
that " he was a gentleman, and his name was Tom 
Liverpool." The first question put by the Mafook 
on his coming on board was " if we wanted slaves^'' 
nor could w^e for a long time convince him in the 
negative, observing that we were only merchant 
ships, and particularly from our numerous boats. 
Having at last made him understand the motives 
of the expedition, and informed him that no nation 
but the Portuguese were now permitted to trade in 
slaves ; he very liberally began to abuse the sove- 
reigns of Europe, telling us that he was over-run 
with captives, whom he would sell at half their 
value, adding, that the only vessel that had visited 
Malemha for five years was a French ship about a 
year before this time ; and according to him, the 
Portuguese government had prohibited their sub- 
jects from trafficking in slaves to the north of Ca- 
benda, where there were now nine vessels bearing 
their colours, and one Spaniard. The Mafook 
however acknowledged that they sometimes seni 
their boats from Cabenda to Malemha to procure 
slaves, and indeed we saw an European boat sail- 
ing between the two ports. From the description of 
the vessel hoisting Spanish colours at Cabenda* 
there could be no doubt of her being the ship we 
passed on the 18tL 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 127 

The Mafook finding we did not want slaves, of- 
fered to supply us with fresh provisions ; and as I 
knew we sliould, as usual, be obliged to anchor in 
the evening not far from our present station, I ac- 
cepted his offer of sending his boats on shore for 
that purpose, he himself desiring to remain on board 
for the night with eight of his officers, doubtless in 
the expectation of having a glorious dose of brandy, 
which in fact they swilled until they could no long- 
er stand. 

The dresses of these gentry were a singular 
medley of European and native costume ; the Ma- 
fook had on a red superfine cloth waistcoat ; his se- 
cretary, an English general's uniform coat on his 
otherwise naked body; a third a red cloak edged 
with gold lace like a parish beadle's, &;c. &c. The 
native portion of the dress consisted of a piece of 
checlied or other cotton cloth folded round the 
waist, and a little apron of the skin of some animal, 
which is a mark of gentility, and as such is not per- 
mitted to be worn by menial attendants. A striped 
worsted cap, or else one of their own manufacture 
and of very curious workmanship, on the head, 
completed the useful part of their dress. Their 
ornaments consisted of rings of iron and copper 
on the ankles and wrists, welded on so as not to 
be taken off; and many of the copper ones having 
raised figures tolerably executed. This metal we 
understood was abundant in their country. Be- 
sides necklaces of beads, the general neck orna- 
ment was circles or rings of the bristles of the ele- 
phant's tail, called by them morfil, and which seem- 
ed to be multiplied in proportion to the puppyism 
of the wearer, the graver or middle aged men hav- 
ing but one or two, while some of the young ones 
had so many, that they could with difficulty move 



128 CAPTAIN TUCKET'S NARRATIVE. 

the head, and reminded us of our Bond-street 
bloods with their chins hid in an enormous cravat. 

All were loaded with fetiches of the most hete- 
rogeneous kinds ; bits of shells, horns, stones, 
wood, rags, &c. &c. ; but the most prized seemed 
to be a monkey's bone, to which they paid the 
same worship that a good catholic would do to the 
OS sacrum of his patron saint. The master fetiche of 
the Mafook was a piece of most indecent sculpture 
representing two men, surrounded by the tips of 
goat's horns, shells, and other rubbish, and slung 
over the shoulder with a belt of the skin of a snake. 

The features of these sculptured figures, instead 
of being Negro, as might be expected, were en- 
tirely Egyptian ; the nose aquiline and the forehead 
high. The canoes are of a single tree ; each had 
five men, who worked them with long paddles 
s Landing up. At night our visiters were satisfied 
with a sail in the 'tween-decks, where they all 
huddled together, and from which they started at 
daylight to light their pipes and resume their de- 
%^otions to the brandy bottle. 

As I had expected, we were obliged to anchor, 
by the failure of the sea breeze, opposite to Ca- 
benda, from whence, in the forenoon, a boat came 
ofF with another cargo of gentlemen ; but, as I had 
been quite sufficiently plagued by my Malemba 
guests, I excused myself from not being able to 
receive them on board ; the sea breeze being about 
to set in, and as there was no appearance of the 
Malemba boat bringing off the stock, I, much 
against their inclination, sent off my visiters in this 
boat. 

The information we picked up respecting the 
coast from Loango Bay to the mouth of the Zaire, 
proved, as we expected, that it is very erroneous- 
ly laid down in the most recent charts. The only 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 129 

river between Indian Point and Cabenda is the 
LoangO' Louise^ and is that marked in the charts 
by the name of Kacongo^ being, by our observa- 
tions when at anchor nearly opposite to it, 5° 17'. 
Its opening is between two high lands, and appears 
to be wide and clear. The country is divided into 
petty sovereignties, tributary to the king of Loan- 
go ; the northernmost of these states, after passing 
Laongo bay, is named Boal, to which succeeds 
Makongo, of which Malemba is the port; then that 
of N'Goy, wliose port is Cabenda, and which ex- 
tends along the north side of the entrance of the 
river Congo. The king of Makongo, or Malemba, 
resides inland at a town named Chingele (evidently 
the Kinhele of the charts,) but Avhich is not situated 
on a river. From our visiters I procured a voca- 
bulary of their language; they all speaking Eng- 
lish to be perfectly understood, and several of them 
French still more correctly. 

While at anchor this day, I sent two boats in 
shore to look for the bank of Bele, said by Grand 
Pre to be situated southwest of Malemba, and 
which, according to him. shoals suddenly from seven 
fathoms. The boats, however, could not find any 
bank, but. on the contrary, the w ater shoaled \eTy 
regularly from where the ship was anchored in 15 
fathoms to 5 fathoms within about three miles of 
the shore, all soft muddy bottom. One of the na- 
tives on board assured us that he had been on the 
bank in question, with Mr. Maxwell, and that it 
lies within a short distance of the shore, and nearer 
to Malemba than Cabenda. 

Having weighed with a tolerable sea breeze, we 
were enabled to stand along shore until eight in the 
evening, when being in 8 fathoms, the anchor was 
let go, and the current was found running N. N. W. 
l-j mile an hour; an officer being sent in shore to 



330 CAPTAIN TUCKEYS NARRATIVE. 

sound, reported that the water shoaled very gra.- 
dually to three fathoms within half a mile of the 
shore, near to which is a lengthened reef, with the 
sea breaking violently, but which seems to shelter 
the beach within it, and thereby affords landing to 
boats. 

The coast from 4° 50' is moderately elevated, 
forming reddish gray cliffs, similar to those near 
Loango bay ; until past Cabenda, when the coast 
descends to low land covered with wood, (appa- 
rently the mangrove) and our view this day termi- 
nated on the Red Point of the charts, (Chabaroca 
point of the natives) which they informed us was 
the entrance of a little river. 



[ 131 ] 



CHAPTER III. 



e tip the River to the place where the Congo was left, and 
from whence they proceeded in the double-boats. 



As we were now approaching the scene of action, 
I thought it right to issue to the Officers and Natu- 
rahsts the following memorandum of regulations 
for our conduct while in the country. 

" Although it is impossible to foresee all the cir- 
cumstances which, in the progress of the expedi- 
tion, may call for the exertion of the utmost pru- 
dence and presence of mind in those who may 
have intercourse with the natives ; nevertheless 
the following observations are offered, with the cer- 
tainty that an attention to them will be the means 
of avoiding the ill effects, which may as certainly 
be expected from a different line of conduct to that 
which they recommend. 

" Though we are not to expect to find in the na- 
tives of Africa, even in the most remote region, 
that state of savage nature which marks the peo- 
ple of other newly discovered countries, with 
whom the impulse of the moment is the only prin- 
ciple of action, it is nevertheless highly necessa- 
ry to be guarded in our intercourse with them ; 
that, by showing we are prepared to resist aggres- 
sion, we may leave no hope of success, or no in- 
ducement to commit it. 

" In doing this, it is, however, by no means ne- 
cessiary to exhibit marked appearance of suspi- 
cion, which would probably only serve to induce 
the hostihty it seemed to fear ; it is, on the cgn- 



132 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

trary, easy to combine the show of being guarded, 
with marks of the greatest confidence. 

" In the event of the absolute necessity of re- 
pelling hostility for self-preservation, it will cer- 
tainly be more consonant to humanity, and perhaps 
more effectual in striking terror, that the first guns 
fired be only loaded with small shot. 

" Although we may expect to find the idea of 
property fully known to all the people we shall 
have intercourse w ith, it is not to be the less ex- 
pected that they will be addicted to theft, the pu- 
nishment of which in savages has been one of the 
most frequent causes of the unhappy catastrophes 
that have befallen navigators ; it is therefore ur- 
gently advised, not to expose any thing unneces- 
sarily to the view of the natives, or to leave any 
object in their way that may tempt their avidity. 

" In the distribution of such presents as may be 
intrusted to those going on shore, great caution is 
requisite to ascertain the rank of the persons, to 
whom they are given, and to proportion the value 
accordingly, in order, as much as possible, to 
prevent jealousies. 

"A great cause of the disputes of navigators 
with uncivilized people is in unauthorized freedoms 
with their females ; and hence every species of 
curiosity or familiarity with them, which may 
create jealousy in the men, is to be strictly avoid- 
ed ; taking it for granted, that, in a state of socie- 
ty where the favours of the women are considered 
as a saleable or transferable commodity by the 
men, the latter will be the first to offer them. 

'' As one of the objects of the expedition is to 
view, and describe manners, it will be highly im- 
proper to interrupt, in any manner, the ceremonies 
of the natives, however they may shock humanity 
or create disgust ; and it is equally necessary, in 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 133 

the pursuits of the different Naturalists, to avoid 
offending the superstitions of the natives in any of 
their venerated objects. Hence, in inhabited or 
enclosed places appearing to be property, per- 
mission should be first sought to cut down trees 
(particularly fruit-bearing ones,) which, as well as 
animals, are often held sacred. When no super- 
stitious motive interferes, a few beads will, proba- 
bly, always purchase the required permission. 

" As it is probable that the different pursuits of 
the scientific gentlemen may be as well carried on 
in company as if separated, it is therefore strongly 
recommended to them to keep together as much as 
possible for their mutual support and safety. 
Should they however think proper to separate in 
their excursions, it is to be understood that the 
two or three marines, who will always be appointed 
to accompany them, are to remain with the gentle- 
man having the direction on leaving the vessel ; 
and, in order to avoid the possibility of any dispute 
for precedence in this last respect, the succession 
in which the Lords of the Admiralty have given 
me the names of the scientific gentlemen, is to be 
considered as the established rule, viz. Mr. Profes- 
sor Smith, Mr. Tudor, Mr. Cranch ; and when it 
be thought necessary to send a midshipman or other 
petty officer to command the escort which may ac- 
company the naturalists, he is strictly directed to 
comply with the wishes of the gentleman having 
the direction of the excursion, as far as his ideas of 
safety will authorize. 

^' The health of the persons accompanying tlie 
naturalists in their excursions will of course be a 
particular object with those gentlemen, by taking 
care not to expose them unnecessarily to the sun 
in the Imttr^t hnursi of the dav, or to the rain, if 



134 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

shelter can be had, and by carrying them as Httle 
as possible into swampy tracts. 

" It is most particularly enjoined to every person 
who inay be on shore to return on board, as soon 
as possible, on seeing the signal for the purpose." 

The scantiness and short duration of the sea 
breezes and the current kept us nearly stationary, 
until the 5th, when in the afternoon a fresh Seabreeze 
sprung up at W.S.W. with which we stood to the 
south, and soon shoaled our water from 22 to 13 
fathoms, which depth we carried without altera- 
tion until 8 o'clock, when we deepened to 18 fa- 
thoms, and the next cast had no ground with 150 
fathoms of line ; whence it was evident we were 
in the deep channel of the river Congo or Zaire, 
and thus had overshot my intention, which was, in 
consequence of the expected velocity of the stream, 
to anchor on the edge of the bank, and take the 
next sea breeze to cross it. We had now however 
no alternative but to stand on, and the breeze last- 
ing for near an hour, carried us across the fathom- 
less channel, and we struck soundings in 23 fathoms 
on this side, as suddenly as we had lost them on 
the other; the wind at the same time failing, we 
anchored in that depth, and found no current 
whatever; indeed in the deep channel of the river 
it must have been insignificant, in comparison with 
what we had been led to expect, certainly not 
above two miles an hour. 

At daylight of the 6th we found Cape Padron 
bearing S. b. E. i E., and Shark Point S. E. ^ S. ; the 
latitude at noon in the same situation being 6° 5'. 
At noon weighed with a pretty fresh sea breeze, 
and ran in for the land between the above points, 
until within half a mile of the shore, when we had 
20 fathoms waten We then bore up towards 
Shark Point, and immediately lost soundings, nor 



CAPTAIN TL^CKEY'S NARRATIVE. 135 

<elid we again get bottom with the hand lead until 
it suddenly struck the ground in 5 fathoms; the 
anchor with the chain cable was immediately let 
go, but finding the ship did not bring up, and was 
drifting from the buoy, I concluded the chain had 
snapped, and directed another anchor to be let go ; 
but before this was done the ship was in 36 fa- 
thoms and still drifting; both the chain and cable 
were now veered away, and she at last brought 
up; but fearing she would again go adrift, the kedge 
anchor, backed by a smaller one, was run out. The 
Congo sloop, which had let go her anchor in 4 
fathoms, also drove, and fell alongside of us, but 
without any other ill consequence than the loss of 
her anchor and cable, m hich, by some mismanage- 
ment, was suffered to run out end for end. When 
the ship had brought up we found that she tailed 
on a mud bank with but 7 fathoms, while under 
the chains was 14, and under the bows 36. Where 
we first let go the anchor in 4i fathoms, there was 
no current whatever, but at the place to which we 
had drifted it ran 2^ miles an hour to the N.N.W. ; 
but it was here also considerably affected by a 
twelve hours tide, being almost still water at ry 
o'clock in the evening and 6 the next morning. 

On heaving up the chain we found that the an- 
chor had broken at the crown. In the forenoon, 
while waiting for the sea breeze, the Mafook ol 
Shark Point came on board with half a dozen ol 
Jiis myrmidons, and though the most ragged, dirty 
looking wretch that can be well conceived, he ex- 
pected as much respect as a prince ; first complain- 
ing that the side ropes were not proper for a per- 
son of his quality (they were only covered with 
canvass) ; then insisting on a chair and cushion on 
the quarter deck ; with the latter of which being 
unable to comply, he was satisfied with spreading 



j36 CAPTAIN TUCKEyS NARRATIVE. ' 

an ensign over the former. Seating himself at the 
tafFerel, he certainly made a very grotesque ap- 
pearance, having a most tattered pelisse of red 
velvet, edged with gold lace, on his naked car- 
cass, a green silk umbrella spread over his head, 
though the sun vras completely obscured, and his 
stick of offide headed v^ith silver in the other hand. 
It being our breakfast hour, he notified his desire 
to be asked into the cabin, to partake of our meal ; 
but he smelt so offensively, and w^as moreover so 
covered vv^ith a cutaneous disorder, that my polite- 
ness gave way to my stomach, and he was obliged, 
though with great sulkiness, to content himself on, 
deck. To bring him into good humour, I however 
saluted him with one swivel, and gave him a plen- 
tiful allowance of brandy. He seemed indeed to 
have no other object in coming on board than to 
get a few glasses of this liquor, which he relished 
so well that he staid on board all night and the five 
following days. From him we learnt that there 
were three schooners and four pinnaces (all Por- 
tuguese) at Embomma, procuring slaves. He al- 
so affirmed that the transport could ndt, at this 
season, ascend higher tlian the tall trees, on ac- 
count of the little water in the channel. 

At 2 P. M. of the 8th, a fresh sea breeze coming 
in, we weighed, but the moment the ship came 
abreast of Shark Point, she was taken by the 
current and swept right round ; with difficulty her 
head was again got the right way, and she rounded 
the point in 4~ fathoms. We then stood on S. S. E. 
by compass, carrying a regular depth of 7 and 8 
fathoms for about 2 miles, when finding her go 
astern, blowing a fresh breeze with all the studding 
sails set, let go the anchor in 8 fathoms, and veered 
30 fathoms of chain. Shark Point bearing W. b. 
S, about 2 miles. At 8 o'clock, found the ship 



eAPTAIN TUCKERS NARRATIVE. 137 

ilriving, and that through the neglect of the men 
attending the lead ; she was ah'eady in 16 fathoms, 
end the sea breeze being still fresh, we loosed and 
set all the sails, and let go another anchor, which 
brought her up. During the night the wind re- 
mained light at S. W., and the ship w as steered as 
if under way, though riding taught with all sail set. 
The Congo, w ithout difficulty, went over the cur- 
rent, and might have run up to the Tali trees, had 
her signal not been made to come to, and she ac- 
cordingly anchored opposite Sherwood's Creek. 

At four o'clock this afternoon, a schooner ap- 
peared off the point, hoisted Spanish colours, and 
fired a gun ; after laying to for some time, she hoist- 
ed the royal colours of Spain, fired a shot, which 
fell near the transport, and ran in and anchored. 
A boat was immediately sent from her to ask what 
we were, and on being informed, they made some 
excuse for firing the shot, intended, as they said, 
to assure the colours; their vessel, by their ac- 
count, was from the Havana lor slaves ; but it 
Was perfectly evident, from their answers to my 
questions, that she was illicitly employed in this 
trade, and prepared to carry it on by force, being 
armed with 12 guns, and full of men: this was 
indeed put out of doubt on the return of her boat, 
on board, by her getting under way and again 
running out of the river; doubtless from apprehen- 
sion of the sloop of war, which they were told was 
gone up the river. This vessel was destined to 
take off 320 slaves; her burden being 180 Spanish 
tons. 

The sea breeze setting in fresh at 2 P. M. on the 
9th, and finding the ship under all sail go ahead 
of her anchor, we weighed, but, though the cur- 
rent was running scarcely three miles an hour, 
•^he at first barely stemmed it, and soon went 



I 



138 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

astern; deepening the water so rapidly, that find- 
ing we should be out of soundings before we could 
bring up, I had no alternative but to run out again 
and try to anchor under Shark Point ; but so little 
effect had the sails, even when going with the cur- 
rent, that she drifted bodily on the Moena Moesa 
bank, on which I was just about to let go the an- 
chor in 7 fathoms, when the sea breeze becoming 
suddenly and providentially very strong, we got her 
to stay, and again just fetched Shark Point, where 
the wind again failed, and we were driven round 
by the current, and again obliged to stand out. 
The wind however once more freshening at sun- 
set, after making a short tack offj we stretched in, 
and were fortunate enough at 7 o'clock to get to an 
anchor under Shark Point in 4J fathoms ; an at- 
tempt, which I should have considered highly im- 
prudent had I not examined the bank, and taken 
accurate remarks; nor indeed had I any other 
alternative but that of finding myself off^Cabenda 
in the morning had I kept to sea. 

The three succeeding days, there being either 
no sea breeze, or only such as was too weak to at- 
tempt any thing with our brute of a transport, we 
were obliged to remain at anchor, rolling gunnel 
in, from the ground swell on the bank ; consoling 
ourselves however that, of the three evils which 
threatened us, we had escaped the two worst, 
either being obliged to anchor on the Mazea bank^ 
or being driven by the current to the northward, 
God knows where. 

Our Shark Point visiters were now succeeded by 
the Mafook of Market Point and a gentleman from 
Embomma, who told us he was sent by the Great 
Mafook of that place to accompany us up the river, 
in order that no accident should happen to us ; and 
though I would very gladly have foregone the 



• CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 139 

pleasure of their company, I could not refuse re- 
ceiving them on board. I however endeavoured to 
make them clearly understand that they were not 
to expect the same attentions on board a King's ship 
(I was sorry to be obliged to disgrace the name bj 
applying it to the detestable transport), which they 
had been used to receive from slave traders ; and 
the uniforms of the otBcers, and the marines, 
seemed to give them the proper feeling of our con- 
sequence. 

Several of the Sonio men who came on board 
were Christians after the Portuguese fashion, 
having been converted by missionaries of that na- 
tion ; and one of them was even qualified to lead 
his fellow negroes into the path of salvation, as ap- 
peared from a diploma with which he was turnish- 
ed. This man and another of the Christians had 
been taught to write their own names and that of 
Saint Antonio, and could also read the Romish 
litany in Latin. All these converts were loaded with 
crucifixes, and satchels containing the pretended 
relics of saints, certainly of equal efficacy with the 
monkey's bone of their pagan brethren ; of this 
we had a convincing proof in each vociferating in- 
vocations to their respective patrons, to send us a 
strong wind ; neither the fetiche or Saint Antonio 
having condescended to hear their prayers. The 
Christian priest was however somewhat loose in 
his practical morality, having, as he assured us, 
one wife and five concubines ; and added, that St. 
Peter, in confining him to one wife, did not prohibit 
his solacing himself with as many handmaids as he 
could manage. All our visiters, whether Christians 
or idolaters, had figures raised on their skins, in 
cicatrices, and had also the two upper front teeth 
filed away on the near sides, so as to tbrm a large 
opening, into which they stuck their pipes, and 



140 CAPTAIN TUCKEPS NARRATIVE. 

which is so perfectly adapted to the purpose, that 
I thought it expressly formed for it; until on in- 
quiry I learned, that, as well as the raised figures 
on the skin, it was merely ornamental, and princi- 
pally done with the idea of rendering themselves 
agreeable to the women, who, it seems, estimate 
a man's beauty by the wideness of this cavity, 
which in some measured near an inch, the whole 
of the teeth, and particularly the two front ones, 
being enormously broad, and very white. 

Our Sonio visiters were almost without exception 
sulky looking vagabonds, dirty, swarming with lice, 
and scaled over with the itch, all strong symptoms 
of their having been civilized by the Portuguese, 
and in their appearance and manners forming a 
striking contrast, not unimportant to the study of 
national manners, to our Malembo guests, who 
were cheerful, clean, drest even to foppishness, 
a;nd choqued their glasses with us ; in short, quite 
gentlemen d la Francaise^ the nation with which they 
have had most intercourse. Some canoes brought 
on board a few pigs, goats, fowls and eggs, for sale, 
but the prices they asked were so exorbitant, that 
for fear of spoiling the market up the river by their 
reports of our facility, I confined myself to the pur- 
chase of a few fowls and eggs. The value they 
here set on the different articles for barter was by 
no means in the proportion of their respective 
English prices ; for an empty bottle, a looking- 
glass, or knife, invoiced at 3d, we got a full grown 
fowl, while for a bunch of beads that cost 2s. lOd. 
they offered but two ; and for a small goat, they 
wanted four fathoms of blue baft. We however 
purchased for a mere trifle, a fresh water turtle 
weighing 40lb., which, when drest, we found equal 
to the green turtle. 

The method of closing a bargain, and giving a 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 141 

receipt, is by the buyer and seller breaking a blade 
of grass or a leaf between them, and until this cere- 
mony is performed, no bargain is legally conclud- 
ed, though the parties may have possession of each 
other's goods ; this we only learned by experience, 
for having bought, and, as we thought, paid for a 
couple of fowls, they were immediately slaughtered 
for dinner, but the owner taking advantage of the- 
omission of the ceremony, pretended that he had 
not concluded the bargain, and insisted on another 
glass, which we were obliged to give him, but pro- 
fited by the lesson. 

During our forced detention at Shark Point, the 
Naturalists made some excursions on shore, and 
were gratified in their respective pursuits, particu- 
larly Dr. Smith, who procured many interesting 
plants. Mr. Cranch shot some birds, amongst 
which were an eagle, an anhinga, several varieties 
of the king fisher, a toukan, and many small birds. 
Near the shore, these gentlemen saw, close to a 
place where had been afire, human skulls and other 
human bones. Observingthe natives take considera- 
ble numbers of fish with nets, we sent two boats to 
haul the seine atdaylightofthellth. On tjie outside 
of the point they were entirely unsuccessful, not 
taking a single fish, but on the inside, in one haul, 
thirty large fish were taken, some weighing 60lbs ; 
these were all of one kind, of the Sparus genus, and 
named Vela by the natives. They were found to 
be excellent in taste and firmness, much resem- 
bling the cod. The only other species taken were 
a single large cat fish (Lophius) and a few small 
mullets. 

July 12. 1 now determined to lose no more time 
in the attempt to get the transport up the river, but 
to extricate myself from this exquisitely tantaliz- 
ing situation by the immediate transhipment of the 



142 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

provisions and stores to the Congo ; for which pur^ 
pose the double boats, and all the ship's boats» 
were hoisted out, on the evening of the 12th, and 
the double boats being put together and rigged, 
the whole were next morning loaded ; when there- 
fore the sea breeze set in at two o'clock in the af- 
ternoon, I took my leave of the transport, with the 
Naturalists, leaving the master and purser to see 
her discharged, or get her up the river if an oppor- 
tunity offered. I had now the satisfaction to find 
the double boats answer my best expectations in 
their fitness for this service ; for though the breeze 
was very light, and the current running round 
Shark Point three miles an hour, they without dif- 
ficulty doubled this, to us more redoubtable pro- 
montory than that of Good Hope to our early navi- 
gators, and in two hours and a half we reached 
the Congo sloop, laying about ten miles from the 
point. 

The birth she occupied I found was about half 
a mile from the south shore, nearly opposite Sher- 
wood's creek, (Fuma of the natives). The cur- 
rent here at its maximum ran 3i miles an hour, but 
was subject to very great Irregularities, apparently 
from the combined effects of a regular tide, and of 
eddies formed by the points of land or banks. 
These effects were frequently so great as to en- 
tirely overcome the stream, and create perfect 
slack water of various duration from half an hour 
to five minutes. The rise and fall of tide by the 
shore, as marked on the roots of the mangrove, 
was 2^ feet. The water thus high is too brackish 
for use, and though perfectly colourless in a glass, 
has the same red appearance as we remarked off' 
Cabenda. 

Hitherto the river has presented no appearance 
to inspire the idea of magnitude equal to that of a 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 143 

1 iver of the first class ; unless we were indeed to 
consider the estuary formed between the Sonio 
and Moena Mazea shore, as the absolute embou- 
chure of the river, than which certainly nothing 
would be more erroneous ; the true mouth of the 
river being at Fathomless Point, where it is not 
three miles in breadth; and allowing the mean 
depth to be 40 fathoms, and the mean velocity of 
the stream 4^ miles an hour, it will be evident that 
the calculated volume of water carried to the sea 
has been greatly exaggerated. 

The peninsula of Cape Padron and Shark Point, 
which forms the south side of the estuary, has been 
evidently formed by the combined depositions of 
the sea and river, the external or sea shore being 
composed of quartzy sand, forming a steep beach; 
the internal or river side, a deposite of mud over- 
grown with the mangrove ; and both sides of the 
river towards its mouth is of a similar formation, in- 
tersected by numerous creeks, (apparently forming 
islands) in which the water is perfectly torpid. 
This mangrove or alluvial tract appears to extend 
on both shores about seven or eight miles inland, 
where the elevated and primitive soil then occurs, 
and the outline of which is frequently caught from 
the river, through vistas formed by setting fire to 
the mangrove, or over the creeks. This mangrove 
tract is entirely impenetrable, the trees growing in 
the water, with the exception of a few spots of 
sandy beach. Small islands have in many places 
been formed by the current, and doubtless in the 
rainy season, when the stream is at its maximum, 
these islands may be entirely separated from the 
banks, and the entwined roots keeping the trees 
together, they will float down the river, and merit 
the name of floating islands. At this season, how- 
ever, they are reduced to occasional patches of a 



144 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

few yards of brush wood, or reeds, which, ghding 
gently down the stream, convey the idea of repose 
rather than the rush of a mighty river. 

Lieutenant Hawkey proceeded up the creek op- 
posite to which the Congo was anchored, and de- 
scribes it " as dividing into two branches, one hav- 
ing a direction E. by S. and the other W. by N., the 
former of which he followed, and found it extreme- 
ly tortuous ; after passing twenty reaches in direc- 
tions almost opposite, he reached the primitive land, 
composed here of sandy precipitous cliffs ; the soil 
in some spots bare, in others covered with wood, 
particularly with the Adansonia or boabab. Here 
we met with the excrement of elephants, tigers, 
and other animals both herbivorous and carnivo- 
rous ; the skeleton of the head of a wild hog w as 
picked up, and an antelope was seen ; on the sandy 
beach close to a pond of stagnant fresh water were 
many birds, where the river turtle had deposited 
their eggs." 

Many canoes visited the Congo, with pigs, goats, 
fowls, and eggs for sale, but being almost as exor- 
bitant in their demands as at Shark Point, we did 
little business ; some trading canoes with 10 to 20 
men in each, going up and down the river, also stop- 
ped alongside to satisfy their curiosity. Their ge- 
neral cargoes were salt, and palm nuts, from the 
latter of which they extract oil. The salt is pro- 
cured from the north shore, in the district of Boo- 
lambemba, near Fathomless Point, hi one of these 
canoes were also an elephant's tooth and a boy for 
sale. 

From the natives who were on board we learnt 
that the King of Sonio resides at Banza Sonio, on 
a fresh water river, the entrance of which is the 
creek marked in Maxwell's chart " Raphael's 
creek," and that a boat would be twelve hours 



CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. 145 

ascending to the town, though the current is 
trifling. We also now learnt how the human bones 
came in the place where they were seen by the 
Naturalists near Shark Point, and which, without 
an explanation, might have led to the supposed 
cannibalism of the natives ; we were however as- 
sured that they were the remains of criminals, who 
had suffered for the crime of poisoning, this spot 
being the place of execution of a certain district. 
When a common man is convicted of this crime, 
his head is first severed, and his body then burnt ; 
but the punishment of a culprit of superior rank is 
much more barbarous, the members being ampu- 
tated one by one, so as to preserve life, and one 
of each sent to the principal towns of the king- 
dom, to be there burnt. The trial is always by a 
kind of ordeal. 

This afternoon the transport weighed with the 
sea breeze, but being as unmanageable as ever, 
she ran on Shark Point, where she lay half an 
hour, when the tide flowing, she went off without 
the smallest damage, and by the great exertion of 
the master of the Congo, was brought to an anchor 
two miles within the point. 

We had now visiters arriving hourly, all of whom 
pretended that they were sent by the Mafook of 
Embomma, to see the vessels safe up the river, and 
each of these gentlemen assured us that all the 
others were impostors, and only came on board to 
get brandy, so that I had a diflftcult task to keep 
clear of offending them, and at the same time avoid 
imposition. I however succeeded in getting rid of 
them all, by telling them that they should remain 
on board until we reached the town, when the 
Mafook would decide who were and who were not 
impostors, and doubtless would punish the latter. 
From them we learnt that an express had been sent 



1^^ CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

from Cabenda to notify our approach, and that on 
this intelhgence all the Portuguese vessels at Em- 
bomma had precipitately left it, and quitted the 
river, passing us no doubt in the night. I had 
however expressly declared to the Malemba and 
Gabenda people w^ho visited us, that I should not 
in any manner interfere with the slave traders, of 
whatever nation they might be. 

The transhipping the stores and provisions be- 
ing finished on the 18th, the double boats were 
loaded and every thing ready to proceed up the 
river, but there being only a very faint sea breeze 
this day, we were obliged to continue at anchor. 
The Mafook vSina, or chief king's merchant of Em- 
bomma, came on board this morning, but as I had 
been frequently deceived by gentlemen Mafooks, 
I received him so cavalierly that he quitted the 
Congo, and went on board the transport, where his 
quality being acknowledged by several natives 
then on board, he sent back his interpreter and 
head man to me, and on finding that he was really 
the person he pretended to be, I desired the trans- 
port to salute him with four guns, which made up 
for my first bad reception, and he visited me in the 
afternoon, bringing with him a retinue of twenty 
rascals, all of whom he expected to be gorged with 
brandy; and as I knew he had great influence at 
Embomma, I endeavoured to gratify even his im- 
moderate wish, and lent him the Congo's jolly boat 
to return to Embomma, and my own boat cloak to 
keep him warm. 

The 19th, there being no sea breeze, we conti- 
nued at the same anchorage, but the next day 
were more fortunate, and succeeded in getting the 
Congo up abreast of Halcyon island (Zoonga Cam- 
pendi). The banks of the river, along which we 
passed sometimes within a stone's throw, are entire- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 147 

\y covered with mangrove, intersected by creeks, 
the first of which of any consideration after pass- 
ing Fuma, is Kangavemba, (Alhgator's pond of 
Maxwell), which seems to be a large expanse of 
water, but according to the natives, goes but a lit- 
tle way inland. The next considerable creek is 
that whose entrance contains the three islands 
called by Maxwell, Bonnet, Knox, and Halcyon ; 
the first having its name from a clump of trees, and 
is called by the natives Zoonga, Casaquoisa; 
Knox's island the natives describe as a peninsula. 
The eastern part of the entrance of this creek forms 
an excellent little haven, where the Congo was 
now anchored, entirely out of the stream of the 
river in five fathoms. This inlet, the natives say, 
goes up to the town of Loocansey, the distance 
from the mouth being about three hours rowing of 
a boat. 

July 21. This morning we sent a party to haul 
the seine on one of the banks which lie close to 
Knox's island, and took great abundance of fi&h of 
four species ; one being a Sparus of a large size, a 
mullet a {Surmulctus)^ and an old wife, {Ballistes), 
A brig under Spanish colours, with 12 guns and 
50 men, cleared out from the Havana, arrived this 
day in the river for slaves ; her nominal mate, but 
real captain (named Sherwood) and a number of 
their crew being Enghsh and Irish, though pre- 
tended Americans, left no doubt of her being either 
English or American property. 

The precariousness of the sea breezes by which 
alone we could get the Congo up the river, and the 
necessity of my losing no time in endeavouring ta 
arrange matters at Embomma, made me determine 
on proceeding thither in the sloop's double-boat ; 
and 1 accordingly quitted the Congo with the Na- 
turalists (exce[;i Mr. Cranch, who preferred the 



148 CAPTMN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

accommodations afforded by the Congo,) at 4 
o'clock in the evening, keeping within boat's 
length of the shore ; we found no current until 
reaching the point named Scotsman's Head, where 
it ran 3j miles an hour ; and the breeze being very 
weak, we barely stemmed it. In the hope of meet- 
ing a counter current on the opposite shore, I now- 
crossed the stream, and it being dark when we 
reached it, I anchored on one of the banks in six 
feet, entirely out of the current. This evening's 
sail along the banks was particularly agreeable, 
the lofty mangroves overhanging the boat, and a 
variety of palm trees vibrating in the breeze ; im- 
mense flocks of parrots alone broke the silence of 
the woods with their chattering, towards sun-set ; 
and we learnt that those birds make a daily journey 
across the river, quitting the northern bank in the 
morning to feed in the Indian corn plantations on 
the south side, and returning in the evening. 

July 22. The shoals and low islands near which 
we anchored are composed of a border of sand 
and clay, with a muddy swamp in the middle, the 
islands being covered with reedy grass. By the 
natives they are named Monpanga, or look-out. 
They were covered with fishing eagles, terns, white 
herons, and other beach birds, of which several 
were shot, and Dr. Smith collected no fewer than 
thirty new species of plants. Our bearings at an- 
chor were, west end of Tall Tree island nearly 
shut in with the north shore, west, and the entrance 
of Maxwell's river, N. E. 

At noon we had a light breeze from W. S. W. ; 
weighed and ran along the edge of the shoals in 
one and two fathoms ; at four, a fresh breeze ; and 
being past the low reedy islands and shoals, we 
ran along the bank of the mangrove land, nearly 
touching the trees in 3 or 4 fathoms until 7 o'clock, 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 149 

when the darkness obliged us to anchor in 2 fa- 
thoms. 

July 23. At daylight, we found that we had 
anchored within 20 yards of a dry shoal ; being 
also close to the island named Draper's island by 
Maxwell, and Zoonga Kampenzey or Monkey 
island by the natives ; bearings as entered in yes- 
terday's journal (by mistake). The land, for 
about three miles west of the entrance of Max- 
well's river, is thickly covered with palms inter- 
mixed with the mangrove, and other trees ; and 
here a great quantity of palm wine is made for the 
Embomma market. Hordes of Negroes came 
down to the bank as Ave passed, and learning that 
we had one of their countrymen on board returning 
from slavery, they greeted us with cheers, after 
their fashion, and clapping of hands. A great 
quantity of shell fish, of the Mya genus, are taken 
out of the mud round Kampenzey island by the 
natives ; and the fish, stuck on wooden skewers, 
as the French do frogs, and half dried, are an ob- 
ject of traffic; their state of half putrefaction 
being entirely to the taste of the negroes. In a raw 
state they are uneatable, having no flavour of the 
oyster, though confounded with that fish by the 
English who have visited the river. 

x\t noon, we weighed with a light breeze at S. 
W., and ran along the main bank until opposite the 
entrance of Maxwell's river, when, by the advice 
of a native on board, we attempted to pass be- 
tween the two easternmost of Draper's islands, but 
found them joined by a bank with only 6 feet, 
where deepest ; and keeping too close to the eas- 
tern island we grounded in 24 feet, but shoved the 
boat off without difficulty ; and by sending the gig 
ahead, passed round the shoals through a very- 
winding channel in 2, 3, and 4 fathoms ; then ran 

9 



150 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 



along the south side of Monkey's island of the 
chart (Zoonga Chinganga of the natives), and the 
islands east of it, in 6, 7, 8, and 9 fathoms. Here 
we lost the mangrove tract, and the soil became a 
stiff clay, cut into perpendicular low cliffs at the 
margin of the river, covered with high reedy grass 
and scattered palm-trees. We passed two Negro 
villages, and at 7 anchored withi>a a few yards of 
the bank in 8 fathoms. 

July 24. At daylight, Iiaving a light breeze at 
S. W., we weighed and ran along the edge of 
Stocking island, composed (as yesterday) of reedy- 
grass and thinly scattered palms ; at 8, the breeze 
dying away, anchored in a little cove in 9 feet, close 
to the Negro village of Peter Mesougy, where we 
purchased a few fowls. Here, in searching for 
something in the boat's cabin, I put my hand on a 
snake coiled up on a bag of clothes ; on killing it 
with a cutlass, it proved to be a water snake, and 
apparently not venomous ; though the natives as- 
serted that its bite is mortal. 

At noon, we weighed with a light westerly 
breeze, and crossed the channel named " Mam- 
balla river" (not distinguished by any other name 
than " Boat's channel" by the natives) ; the mid- 
dle of it is filled with dry shoals, the channels be- 
tween which are very winding, so that we kept the 
gig constantly ahead, and had from 1 to 5 fathoms 
water until we gained the shore of Farquhar's 
island, where there is 7 and 10 fathoms close to the 
bank. Here we saw the first plantation consisting 
ef Indian corn about 2 feet high, and tobacco. In 
crossing the channel, a hippopotamus was seen, 
and, from the shoalness of the water, it must have 
been walking on the bottom, the head only appear- 
ing above the surface. The natives tell us that 
the irregularity of soundings which we foimd i§ 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 151 

caused by these animals assembling in a spot and 
making holes with their feet. Two women, an old 
and a young one, came on board from one of the 
plantations ; by their dress and ornaments they 
appeared to be of a superior class ; I therefore 
gave them some beads and a glass of rum, which 
they swallowed as greedily as the men ; and, in 
return, the old lady offered, through our interpre- 
ter, to leave the young one on board, pour m'amu- 
ser ; a civility which, under existing circumstances, 
I thought proper to decline ; though the young lady 
seemed much chagrined at such an insult to her 
charms. At 3 o'clock the sea breeze set in fresh, 
and we again crossed the channel ; and at 7 an- 
chored on the bank of the east end of Stocking 
island in 2 fathoms. 

July 25th. At daylight we observed the Fetiche 
rock bearing W. by S., and the Beacon rock N. E. 
I visited the Fetiche rock, which is a collection of 
masses of the oldest granite, mixed with quartz 
and mica, running into the river perpendicularly, 
and entirely isolated, the land behind it being a 
plain with reedy grass and some corn plantations. 
It completely commands the passage of the river, 
being about H mile distant from the opposite bank. 
Some of the natives on board could not be pre- 
vailed on to accompany me in the boat, dreading 
the whirlpools off the rock, as much as the ancients 
did Charybdis ; a few very insignificant eddies, 
close to the rock, were however noAv the only signs 
that some whirlpools may exist in the rainy season, 
and the current, which here ran stronger than in 
any other part of the river, did not exceed 21, miles 
an hour. The prospect of the river from the sum- 
mit of the rock is extensi\ e, but in no other res- 
pect prepossessing, the hills which bound the view 
being naked, except a few Adansonia, and appa- 



152 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY»S NARRATIVE. 



rently of the same formation as the Fetiche rock» 
Just as we reached the rock, two hippopotami 
were observed about 100 yards from the shore, 
with their heads above the Avater, snorting in the 
air ; a ball fired at them sent them off 

On the very summit of one of the M'Gonza cheela 
hills, named Fingal's shield in the chart of Max- 
well, is a very singular pyramidal stone, which has 
all the appearance of an artificial building, resem- 
bling a watch tower or a light-house, but is a natu- 
ral block of loose granite with another perched 
upon it. ft is called by the natives Taddi enzazzi^ 
or the lightning stone, and is held as an object of 
great v^ieration. It was sketched by Lieutenant 
Hawkey, and appears to rise out of the circular 
Summit of the hill, as under. 




At 3, weighed with a fresh sea breeze, and at 6 
anchored opposite the village of Lombee, where 
the Fuka or king's merchant resides, who was to 
accompany me to the Chenoo, or king of Em- 
bomma. 

Simmons, a black man whom I had received at 
Deptford from Sir H. Popham's flag-ship for a pas- 
sage to his country, here first met with some of his 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 153 

family. His father and brother came on board the 
sloop. The transport of joy at the meeting was 
much more strongly expressed by the father than 
by the son, uhose European ideas, though acquired 
in the school of slavery, did not seem to assimilate 
with those of Negro society, and he persisted in 
wearing his European jacket arid trowsers; he 
however went on shore with his friends, and 
throughout the night the town resounded with the 
sound of the drum and the songs of rejoicing. 
The story of this man, which I had before never 
thought of inquiring into, and which was partly re- 
lated by his father, adds one blot more to the cha- 
racter of European slave-traders. His father, who 
is called Mongova Seki, a prince of the blood, and 
counsellor to the king of Embomma, intrusted him, 
when eight or ten years old, to a Liverpool captain 
of the name of , to be educated (or accord- 
ing to his expression to learn to make book) in 
England ; but his conscientious guardian found it 
less troublesome to have him taught to make sugar 
at St. Kitts, where he accordingly sold him ; and 
from whence he contrived to make his escape and 
get on board an English ship of war, from which he 
was paid off* on the reduction of the fleet. During 
our passage he performed, without any signs of 
impatience or disgust, the menial office of cook's- 
mate. 

July 26th. Lombee is a village of about a hun- 
dred huts, and here is held the market of the ban- 
za or king's town, no trading operation whatever 
being cnrried, on at the latter; all trading vessels 
also anchor opposite Lombee. The reason assign- 
ed for the market being held here is, that as a great 
concourse of country people frequent the market, 
if any dispute were to arise between them and the 
banza people, the banza would run great risk of 
being burned, and the person of the Chenoo him- 



154 CAPTAIN TUCKEY»S NARRATIVE. 

self would not be safe. Mr. Simmons this forenoon 
paid us a visit, in so complete a metamorphosis 
that we could with difficulty recognize our late 
cook's mate ; his father having dressed him out in 
a silk coat embroidered with silver, which seemed 
by its cut to have adorned the person of a stage 
fop in the days of Sir Roger de Coverly ; this piece 
of finery worn over his own dirty banyan and 
trowsers ; on his head a black glazed hat with an 
enormous grenadier feather, and a silk sash, which 
I had given him, suspending a ship's cutlass, finish- 
ed his costume. He was brought to the boat by 
two slaves in a hammock, an umbrella held over 
his head, preceded by his father and other mem- 
bers of his family, and followed by a rabble escort 
of 20 muskets. His father's present to me con- 
sisted of a male goat, a bunch of plantains, and a 
duck. I had now no small difficulty in keeping 
the sloop from being constantly crammed with visi- 
ters, every Fuka, which appears to be a common 
title of honour, having his linguister (linguist), and 
his two or three gentlemen, all equally voracious 
for brandy, and without whom it is impossible he 
could move a step. 

The market here we found miserably supplied, 
being only able to procure a few fowls, a dozen 
€ggs, and some plantains, in exchange for beads, 
that made them come dearer than in a London 
market. The staple article of trade here seemed 
to be salt, in which there were both wholesale and 
retail dealers, the former having 40 or 50 baskets, 
which he sold to the latter by the basket, who re- 
tailed it to the consumer by the handful, two hand- 
fuls for^a money mat. 

At four o'clock the sea breeze setting in, we ran 
up and anchored before the creek of the banza, in 
8 fathoms, close to the shore, saluting with four 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 15i> 

swivels. Here I found a hammock sent by the 
Chenoo, to convey me to his presence ; but it be- 
ing too late, I sent his majesty an excuse by the 
Fuka Sina, who appeared to be extremely angry, 
because I could not visit the Chenoo in the dark. 

July 27. At ten o'clock I quitted the sloop, with 
the Naturalists and Mr. Galwey, and with an escort 
of four marines ; the hammock I found to have 
some resemblance to the native palanquin of In- 
dia, but in a miserable dirty plight, so that I order- 
ed it to follow; and after the walk of an hour, for 
the first mile over a plain, covered with reedy 
grass, except in some spots w^here Indian corn and 
a kind of French bean were planted, and which is 
under water in the rainy season, and then over a 
fatiguing hill, we reached the banza, at the entrance 
of which I got into the hammock, and was set 
down under a great tree, the ground having been 
swept clean. Here the first objects that called 
our attention were four human skulls, hung to the 
tree, which we w ere told w ere those of the enemy's 
chiefs taken in battle, w hose heads it was the cus- 
tom to preserve as trophies ; these victims, how- 
ever, seemed to have received the coup de grace 
previous to the separation of the head, all the 
skulls presenting compound fractures. After wait- 
ing half an hour under the tree, we were led to the 
Chenoo''s habitation, where, in a court formed by 
a fence of reed mats, and which was crowded with 
the king's gentlemen, I found a seat prepared of 
three or four old chests, covered w ith a red velvet 
pall, an old English carpet with another velvet 
pall being spread on the ground. Having seated 
myself, in about five minutes the Chenoo made his 
appearance from behind a mat screen, his costume 
conveying the idea of punch in a puppet-show, 
being composed of a crimson plush jacket with 



156 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

enormous gilt buttons, a lower garment in the na- 
tive style of red velvet, his legs muffled in pink 
garcenet in guise of stockings, and a pair of red 
Morocco half-boots; on his head an immense high- 
crowned hat embroidered with gold, and surmount- 
ed bj a kind of coronet of European artificial flow- 
ers ; round his neck hung a long string of ivory 
beads, and a very large piece of unmanufactured 
coral. Having seated himself on the right, a mas- 
ter of the ceremonies with a long staff in his hand 
inquired into the rank of the gentlemen, and seated 
them accordingly. The doctors (Messrs. Smith 
and Tudor) having the first places, and then Mr. 
Galwey, whom they styled chief mate ; the ser- 
geant of marines they metamorphosed into a boat- 
srvvain, taking all the titles of officers from the 
trading vessels to which only they had been ac- 
customed. 

All being seated (the crowd of king's gentlemen 
squatting on bullocks hides,) I explained to the 
Chenoo, by Simmons, the motives of my mission ; 
stating that '' the king of England, being equally 
good as he was powerful, and having, as they al- 
ready had heard, conquered all his enemies, and 
made peace in all Europe, he now sent his ships to 
all parts of the world, to do good to the people, and 
to see what they wanted, and what they had to ex- 
change ; that for this purpose I was going up the river, 
and that, on my return to England, English trading 
vessels would bring them the objects necessary 
to them, and also teach them to build houses, and 
make cloth," &c. &:c. These benevolent intentions 
were however far beyond their comprehension ; 
and as little could they be made to understand that 
curiosity was also one of the motives of our visit; 
or that a ship could come such a distance for any 
other purpose but to trade or to fight; and for two 



CAPTAIN TUCKEF'S NARRATIVE. 157 

hours they rung the changes on tiic questions " are 
you come to trade," and " are you come to make 
war." At last, however, they appeared to bo con- 
vinced that I came for neither purpose; and on my 
assuring them that though I did not trade myself, I 
should not meddle even with the slave traders of 
any nation, they expressed their satisfaction by the 
frequent performance o(sakilla^ one of the chief men 
first starting up and making gestures with his arms, 
like a fugle man at exercise, and all the company 
striking their chests at the termination of every mo- 
tion. This ceremony they afterwards repeated 
whenever any thing was said that pleased them ; 
and with redoubled energy when I shook hands 
Avith the Chenoo, The keg of spliced rum which 
I had brought as a part of my present to the Che- 
noo, was now produced, together with an English 
white earthenware wash-hand basin covered with 
dirt ; into which some of the liquor was poured and 
distributed to the company ; the king saying he 
drank only wine, and retiring, as he told me, to or- 
der dinner. The moment he disappeared the com- 
pany began to scramble for a sup of the rum, and 
one fellow, dropping his dirty cap in the basin as 
if by accident, contrived to snatch it out again well 
soaked, and sucked it with great satisfaction. 

While dinner was preparing we walked over the 
banza, accompanied by some of the chief men. It 
is situated on a small plain on a summit of a hill, 
and consists of about 30 dwelling places or tene- 
ments, each composed of two or three huts, within 
a square enclosure of reeds matted ; the huts are 
composed of the same materials, and consist of two 
sides and two end pieces, which they call walls, 
and two other pieces for roofs ; so that a house, 
ready to put together, may be purchased for the 
same price as four fowls, and in five minutes may 

10 



^58 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 



be made ready for occupation ; the entrance is by. 
a square door in one of the sides, just large enough 
to crawl in at, and opposite to it is a window ; both 
of which openings are closed at night with shutters 
of the same fabric as the walls. The Chenoo's tene- 
ment differs in no other respect from the common 
ones, than in containing one large apartment, a little 
better lighted and aired, and in being surrounded by 
a double fence, forming a succession of outer and in» 
ner courts ; of which the sketch underneath will 
give a sufficiently just idea. 



mititiiftmimnTniiim^iitnTWTTiTirmmrrfnnnTimrnTnmTnnnrinminnTniiin 



Trn jTiiTTiimiimtT n nirTnmTinnT H ni i ininirtintii mm rt n iifTn 




tniMiiiiiimirrTTmmTimiTTmmnnnmrrprTrm/TpTmTn 



d 






~iiiMiiiiiiNiiiiiriiiiiiiiiiiiiii^iiliiMni>iuiiiiili(iiiiiiiiiiiiii'iiiiiiillii'iiriUlllllllliniJ'lilll >J 



iiiiiiiiiiiriiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiimiitiMiiiiuiiititiiKiiuiiiiiiiiiit 



a. The grand entrance, being an opening in the outer fence 

about three feet high. 

b. The audience seat. 
ccc. The women's huts. 
d. The grand apartments. 
eee. Huts. 

/. Heap of stones for Fetiche.. 

gg. Fences or screens. 

hb. Young trees inside the outer fence . 



CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. 



159 



Besides a large heap of common stones opposite 
the grand entrance of the Chcnoo's tenement, a 
fetiche was seen in every hole and corner, consist- 
ing of sculptured figures in wood and stone, one 
'exactly resemhling the figures we see in England 
of Bacchus astride on a barrel, with the addition 
of a long pipe in his mouth and a spear on his 
shoulder. The two figures of men below, repre- 
isenting two war fetiches, the one armed with a 
musket, and the other with a broad sword, will 
serve to show in what a low state the art of sculp- 
ture is among these people, which indeed could 
hardly be otherwise where writing is utterly un- 
known. In no one shape whatever do they seem 
to have profited by the multitude of missionaries 
that flocked to Congo in the 16th and 17th centu- 
ries. 





Our repast was laid out in the grand apartment, 
where some chests covered with carpets served 
for seats and tables. A few plates and mugs of 
^•arthenware, and some Venetian gilt glass, were 



160 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'g NARRATIYE. 

placed on the table, together with a few silver 
spoons and forks, evidently of French workman* 
ship. The meats consisted of a soup of plantains and 
goat's flesh, a fowl cut in pieces and broiled, and 
roasted plantains in lieu of bread ; a large silver 
tankard filled with sweet palm wine, and a bottle 
of the rum I had brought, were placed as our be- 
verage. 

While we were at table, I learnt that the Che- 
noo held a palaver in another part of the tene- 
ment, where Simmons was most strictly questioned 
with respect to the motives of our visit, and 
obliged to swear in the most solemn manner of the 
country, to the truth of his assertion. This pala- 
ver being finished, the Chenoo sent to me, to say 
that he would again speak to me ; and we accord- 
ingly were all seated in the audience court as be- 
fore, with the addition of an old man, who, we 
were told, was the Chenoo's uncle, and who seem- 
ed to be a chief counsellor. After again tiring me 
with questions as to my motives, the old man, 
starting up, plucked a leaf from a tree, and holding 
it to me, said, if you come to trade, swear by your 
God, and break the leaf; on my refusing to do so, 
he then said, swear by your God you don't come to 
make war, and break the leaf; on my doing which, 
the whole company performed a grand sakilla, and 
the assembly broke up ; the king retiring into an 
inner hut, where the present I had brought was 
carried ;* for on my first telling him that I had 
brought him a present from the King of England, 
he begged it might not be produced until all his gen- 
tlemen were dismissed. 

While we were seated in the audience court, the 

* It consisted of a piece of furniture cotton, some beads, a 
plated tankard and a goblet, and a silk umbrella. 



CAPTAIN TUCKBY'S NARRATIVE. i(51 

King's women (oi' whom he has fifty), were peeping 
out of one of tlie squares, and before retiring, the 
King very poHtely offered me the choice of all his 
daughters, while his courtiers as civilly proferred 
their wives ; so that I began to fear I should find 
myself in the same dilemma as Frere Jean (in 
Compere Matthieu) ; fortunately, however, the 
gentlemen who accompanied me were not so fasti- 
dious as the Frere's companions. I however learnt 
that the ladies, though apparently nothing loth to 
change husbands, resisted all solicitations to con- 
summation during daylight, under the apprehen- 
sion that the fetiche would kill them. The lan- 
guage of the men in ofliering their women was most 
disgusting and obscene; being composed of the vilest 
words picked up from English, French, and Portu- 
guese. The faces of many of the women were by 
no means unprepossessing, and their forms ex- 
tremely symmetric. Among the men we saw one 
marked with the small-pox, another with a short 
leg, and a third with a withered arm. Great num- 
bers of the boys had a large knot at the navel. A 
cutaneous disorder seemed to be very general, and, 
like the itch, chiefly on the wrists ; and the hands of 
several of the men were perfectly bleached as if 
from a scald. 

July 28. This morning the Chenoo returned my 
visit on board the sloop, accompanied by half a 
dozen of his sons and gentlemen ; his modesty was 
much greater than that of any of our inferior visit- 
ers, expressing himself perfectly satisfied with my 
present, and only hoping that, when I came down 
the river, I would build him an English house, 
leave him a boat, and give him a musket; with 
the latter request I complied immediately, to his 
great satisfaction. I learnt from one of his sons, 
who spoke tolerable English, that a palaver had 



162 CA.PTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

been held all night, at which the Fuka Sina and 
all the traders insisted that our intentions could 
not be good, and that the King should order the 
sloop to quit the banza, and not let me ascend the 
river. The King, however, and the court party, 
would not listen to his suggestions, saying, they 
were satisfied I came to do them good, and that I 
might go where I pleased. Indeed the King now 
repeated the same thing, adding, that if I came to 
make the country (signifying to form a settlement), 
as the Portuguese had done at Cabenda, he would 
grant me all the land I required ; in short, we 
parted the best of friends ; and on his landing I 
saluted him with four swivels, the report of which 
(though they had been warned) struck all the 
crowd on shore with such a panic, that they ran 
off precipitately, tumbling over each other ; which 
showed us at least that we had little to fear from 
the warlike disposition of this people. 

This morning I despatched a canoe to the Congo, 
with instructions for bringing her up the river, and 
employed the afternoon in sounding the river. 

On the following morning (29th), I visited the 
Chenoo, at his request, unceremoniously, taking 
only two marines. I found him seated on a mat, in 
a court of his tenement, distributing palm wine to 
a family party consisting of about 40 men and boys, 
of all ages ; a seat being placed for me, he sent for 
a small box full of papers, which he requested me 
to read, and which jf found to be all Portuguese, 
generally certificates of the Chenoo's good con- 
duct ; and one letter from the governor of St. Paul 
de Loando, complaining that the Sonio men had 
killed some of the missionaries, and cut off a Por- 
tuguese trading pinnace ; its date 1813. After a 
palaver of half an hour, in which I was obliged to 
repeat my assurances of not coming to prevent the 



CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. 163 

jlave trade, or to make war, the Chenoo led the 
way to a pen in which were six fine cows, a young 
bull and a calf; and one of the largest and fattest 
cows was selected as a present for me. This ani- 
mal, I found, had been introduced by the Portu- 
guese, and was now considerably multiplied, 
though no care whatever seems to be taken to in- 
crease them, the cows in calf being indiscrimi- 
nately killed with the bulls ; nor do the natives 
make any use of their milk. The Portuguese, we 
also understood, had brought several horses, but 
none now remained. Near the pen was an 181b. 
carronade, with which I had been saluted on first 
landing, and which I now learnt had belonged to 
an English vessel, burnt at the Tall Trees some 
years since by the slaves on board her, and that 
the rest of her guns (which had been fished up by 
the Sonio men,) were now in the possession of the 
Fuka Sina, who offered to sell them. 

July 30. Prince Machow Candy, known to Eng- 
lish traders as Fuka Candy, (he being Fuka of 
Market Point when the English tmded here,) paid 
me a visit ; and, as he is considered as having great 
influence, I gave him a piece of chintz. He is a 
mulatto of French extraction, and said to have 
made a great fortune by trade, while he filled the 
office of Fuka of the Point. 

July 31. This day and Wednesday, I employed 
in taking a sketch of the reach of the river. 

August 1. This forenoon I was visited by Mr. 
Sherwood, the ostensible mate of the brig under 
Spanish colours, and who had been an old slove 
trader out of Liverpool in this river. He was ac- 
companied by four Portuguese masters of trading 
vessels now at Cabenda, and part of those that 
had quitted Embomma, on intelligence of an Eng- 
lish King's ship approaching. Their visit was for 



164 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE:. 

the purpose of assuring themselves if I meant to 
interfere with the slave trade, and desired to show 
me their papers. I declined however looking at 
them, declaring explicitly that I should not meddle 
with trade or traders in any manner, which seem- 
ed to satisfy them, and they went off, as they said, 
to bring their vessels back from Cabenda. The 
Fuka of the Point and all the trading men seemed 
to be also rejoiced at learning this declaration, as 
they had still doubted, it seems, my assurances 
made to themselvjes. There seems to be no rea- 
son to doubt but that the chief slave trade to thie 
river is bona fide Portuguese. Two persons of this 
nation visited me, saying they were from Rio 
Janeiro; 1 endeavoured to learn en passant the 
amount of the trade, and by combining their an- 
swers with the accounts of the natives, think it 
may be averaged at 2000 slaves a year. 

The price of a slave at this time, as stated by 
the natives, is as follows : 

2 Muskets. 

2 Casks of gunpowder. 

2 Guineas (1 fathom each). 
12 Long Indians (10 fathoms each). 

2 Nicaneas (6 fathoms each). 

1 Romaul (8 fathoms), 

1 Fathom woollen cloth. 

1 Cortee, or sash of cloth. 

2 Jars of brandy. 
5 Knives. 

5 Strings of beads. 

1 Razor. 

1 Looking-glass. 

1 Cap. 

1 Iron bar. 

1 Pair of scissoxgi: 

I Padloefc 



1^^ 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 165 

I have no doubt however but that slaves are 
now sold for one half this valuation. 

The Cons^o this evening succeeded in getting 
up to an anchorage under Leyland island. 

August 2d. I this morning shook hands with the 
Chenoo, giving him, as a parting token of friend- 
ship, one fathom of scarlet cloth, an amber neck- 
lace, two jars of spirits, and some plates and dishes. 
We found a seat placed in the audience court for 
us, and the Chenoo seated opposite on a mat with 
fifty or sixty of his friends ranged on each side. 
On being told that I came to take leave, he retired 
with me into the grand apartment, where he en- 
deavoured to persuade me to defer my departure, 
until he consulted his great men; but in fact I 
suppose he was sorry to lose his daily bottle of 
spirits, for as he sent me every morning a bottle of 
palm wine, I returned him one of rum. Finding I 
was determined, he ceased all solicitations, and 
gave me three of his sons, and two pilots to ac- 
company me to Binda; I had also engaged four 
boys as a boat's crew, finding them extremely 
useful, in saving my own people a great deal of 
trouble by going backwards and forwards with 
the Naturalists. 

In returning from this visit, we passed a hut in 
which the corpse of a woman was lying, drest as 
when alive; inside the hut, four women were 
howling, and outside, two men standing close to 
the hut, with their faces leaning against it, kept 
them company in a kind of cadence, producing a 
concert not unlike the Irish funeral yell. These 
marks of sorrow, we understood, were repeated 
for an hour for four successive days after the death 
of the person. This scene induced me to inquire 
for the burying ground, and the natives at first 
seemed very unwilling to let us see it; after a little 

11 



166 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

persuasion, however, two or three of them led ug 
towards it, and we found it not above 200 yards 
from the banza, amongst a few rugged trees and 
bushes, and over-run with withered grass. Two 
graves were now preparing for gentlemen^ their 
length being nine feet and their breadth five. At 
this time they were nine feet deep, but we were 
told they would be dug to the depth of the tallest 
palm-tree, preserving the same length and breadth 
as at present ; the soil, we observed, was a super- 
ficial layer of black earth, 18 inches deep, and all 
the rest a compact yellow clay ; the graves are 
dug by the same hoes that are used to till the 
oTound, and the excavation is carried on in the 
neatest manner. One of the old graves had a large 
elephant's tooth at each end, and another, which 
we understood to be a child, had a small tooth 
laying on it ; all had broken jars, mugs, glass-bot- 
tles, and other vessels stuck on them ; some show- 
ed that there had been young trees planted round 
them, but all were dead except one plant of the 
Cactus quadrangularis. The graves seemed to be 
indiscriminately dug to all parts of the compass, 
and no attention appeared to have been paid to 
them since their first being filled in. 

Simmons requested a piece of cloth to envelope 
his aunt, who had been dead seven years, and was 
to be buried in two months, being now arrived at a 
size to make a genteel funeral. The manner of 
preserving corpses, for so long a time, is by enve- 
loping them in cloth money of the country, or in 
European cottons, the smell of putrefaction being 
only kept in by the quantity of wrappers, which are 
successively multiplied as they can be procured by 
the relations of the deceased, or according to the 
rank of the person ; in the case of a rich and very 
irreat man. the bulk acquired being only limited by 



CAFi^AIN TUCKEY'S NAllRATrVE. 167 

the power of conveyance to the grave ; so that the 
first hut in which the body is deposited, becoming 
too small, a second, a third, even to a sixth, in- 
creasing in dimensions, is placed over it. 

August 3d. This morning, at daylight, I rowed 
the sloop round Booka Embomma island to the 
south entrance of the creek, wlicrc I anchored to 
wait for the Congo coming up with the sea breeze 

The reach of the river formed by the main land 
and the island Booka Embomma on the north, and 
the islands Hekay (Molyneux) and Booka (Ley- 
land's) on the south, is a basin surrounded by ele- 
vated hills composed of primitive granite, or 
schistus ; in general the first formation is naked of 
trees, and the second covered with brushwood, 
and large trees in the crevices of the rock. The 
hills are all extremely rugged, forming deep hollows, 
separated by natural causeways, and much resem- 
bling, but on a greatly larger scale, the road which 
passes the Devil's Punch Bowl between Portsmouth 
and London; the flattened summit on which the 
banza stands is, as we observed in the groves, an 
under stratum of compact clay covered with black 
mould, on which the ridges marked that it had been 
cultivated ; and there can be no doubt but it would 
becapableof producing the finestwheat. The plain, 
which we passed over to reach the foot of the hills 
in gbing to the banza, is equally proper for the pro- 
duction of rice, and would probably afford two 
crops a year; one by the natural watering in the 
rainy season, and the other by a very small degree 
of labour, in introducing the river water upon it in 
the dry season. 

The Booka Embomma, which is separated from 
the main land by the creek named Logan by Max- 
well, is entirely of schistus, except an exuberantly 
fertile level that borders the creek; this latter is 



168 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

about 5 yards broad, and has 3 or 4 fathoms depth 
up to a ledge of rocks, which crosses it near its 
south entrance, and through which there is an 
opening barely capable of admitting a canoe. The 
only part of this reach, in which the current has any 
considerable force, is at the east side of Zoonga 
Booka, where it runs in little whirlpools over the 
rocky bottom about three miles an hour; the streaijqi 
in the mid-channel (where the depth is 15 fathoms) 
is from 1^ to 2 miles an hour, and in shore on both 
sides it is often stagnant ; and sometimes a small 
counter current is experienced. The island Booka 
Embomma would be the most eligible place thus 
far for a settlement. The trees we had occasion 
to observe here are generally of a soft spongy na- 
ture, unfit for fuel while green, and useless as tim- 
ber ; one species only affording a wood as hard as 
lignum vitae, and proper for the same purpose ; the 
largest size we found it arrive at, was that of a man's 
body. 

The miscellaneous information I was able to 
collect here, I shall give without attention to ar- 
rangement of the matter, which my time at this mo- 
ment does not permit. 

This is the winter of the country, the thermome- 
ter in the day seldom rising above 76, and at night, 
when there are occasionally (not always) heavy 
dews, falling to 60. The mornings, from sunrise 
to 9 or 10 o'clock, are dark, hazy, and sometimes 
foggy. The winds in the morning are often light 
from south to S. W. The sea breezes set in 
very irregularly from noon till 4 o'clock, from 
west to W. S. W.; they have seldom any considera- 
ble force more than once a week, and are stronger 
after a hazy morning, succeeded by a hot sun ; they 
die away from sunset to 10 o'clock. The natives 



CAPTAIN TUCKEV*S NARRATIVE. 169 

feel the changes of temperature very severely, shi- 
vering with cold when the sea breeze sets in fresh. 

Salt is the great object of trade at the Market 
point, and is made near the river's mouth, and 
brought up by canoes in baskets of the substance 
that covers the trunk of the palm trees, of about 
7ibs. each, one of which fetches about two fathoms 
of blue baft. The other objects of petty traffic are 
palm oil and palm nuts, from which the oil is ex- 
tracted. Indian corn, pepper (chiefly bird pepper), 
and mat sails for canoes. The small money in use is 
little mats of the leaf of the bamboo, about 18 inches 
square, 20 of which will purchase a fowl. The 
name of Zaire is entirely unknown to the people of 
Embomma, who call the river " Moienzi enzaddi," 
the great river, or literally fhe river that absorbs 
all the lesser ones ; this title must however be de- 
rived from its receiving tributary streams higher up, 
as we could not understand that there is a stream of 
any consideration thus far ; and the only springs 
we observed w ere two very insignificant ones issu- 
ing from a rock near the banza ; there is also said 
to be good rock water at the Market point, and at 
Tall Trees ; and while at anchor at Sherwood's 
creek, the natives brought us a cask of excellent 
water from a creek near Kelly's point. The river 
water is at this season but little muddy, and after 
being boiled and allow ed to deposite its sediment, 
is not found to affect the people. 

There are several varieties of the palm trees 
here, three of which afford palm wine ; the first, the 
sweet kind, is given by that named Moba, and the 
second by the Mosombie; the liquor is extracted 
as in the West Indies. The sw eet wine is allowed 
to ferment, and produces an intoxicating beverage ; 
when quite fresh it is very pleasant and wholesome, 
taken moderately, keeping the body open. The 



170 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

Masongoi tree also affords a palm wine, considered 
of superior quality ; an inebriating liqour is also 
produced from Indian corn, and named baamboo. 

The cultivation of the ground is entirely the bu- 
siness of slaves and women, the King's daughters 
and princes' wives being constantly thus employed, 
or in collecting the fallen branches of trees for fuel. 
The only preparation the ground undergoes is 
burning the grass, raking the soil into little ridges 
with a hoe, and dropping the Indian corn grains 
into holes. The other objects of cultivation that 
we saw near the banza, were tobacco and beans of 
two sorts. Fruits are very scarce at this time, the 
only ones being long plantains, small bitter oranges, 
limes and pumpions. There are no cocoa nut 
trees, nor, according to the natives, is this tree 
found in the country. The only root we saw is 
the sweet cassava, which the natives eat raw and 
roasted. Sugar cane of two kinds was seen. 

The only vegetable production of any conse- 
quence in commerce is cotton, which grows wild 
most luxuriantly ; but the natives have ceased to 
gather it, since the English left off trading to the 
river, the Liverpool ships formerly taking off a 
small quantity. 

The domestic animals are sheep spotted black 
and white, with pensile ears and no horns, goats, 
hogs of a small breed, a few dogs resembling the 
shepherd's dog, and cats. The black cattle 
brought by the Portuguese cannot be considered 
as fully established, no care being taken of them, 
though, from their very fine appearance and their 
excellent meat, no part of the world seems more 
proper for their multiplication. Common fowls of 
a small breed, and Muscovy ducks, are the only do- 
mestic poultry. 

The wild animals of whose existence we have 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 17] 

any certainty, are elephants in small numbers, this 
hilly country being unfavourable to them. Buffa- 
loes, which are said to be abundant. Antelopes, 
of which a few have been seen ; wild hogs, the 
skeleton of the head of one being found. Tigers 
and tiger cats, the skins being seen with the na- 
tives. Monkeys in abundance, (^Simia cephus.) The 
hippopotamus and alligator appear to be numer- 
ous. The only species of fish we have seen to be 
peculiar to the river is a kind of cat-fish, and some 
small ones resembling the bleak. 

Among the birds are the gray and other parrots, 
the toucan, the common royston crow, a great va- 
riety of king-fishers, and many of the falcon tribe. 
A species of water-hen is also very numerous. 

Insects (with the exception of ants,) are not 
numerous, there being no common flies, and a very 
few moschetoes ; some moths and beetles. 

The natives speak of a large species of snake, 
and some of the early catholic missionaries make 
mention of them from twenty to thirty feet in length, 
but we have seen no other reptile than the water 
snake which I killed in the boat, and small 
lizards. 

The natives are, with very few exceptions, drest 
in European clothing, their only manufacture 
being a kind of caps of grass, and shawls of tha 
same materials ; both are made by the men, as are 
their houses and canoes, the latter of a high tree, 
which grows up the river, and appears to be a 
species of the ficus, resembling that of the ficus re- 
ligiosa. These vary in their size, but they appear 
to be generally from twenty to twenty-four feet 
long by eighteen to twenty, and even twenty-four 
inches wide. Their drinking vessels are pump- 
ions or gourds, and their only cooking utensil, 
earthen pots of their own making, in wJiich they 



172 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

boil or stew their meats, but more generally boil 
them. They take no wild animals for food, a few 
birds excepted, but they are very inexpert in the 
use of the musket ; and their natural indolence 
seems to suppress any fondness for the chase. 
Their musical instruments consist of a large drum 
and a kind of guitar, or rather perhaps a lyre, of 
which the following is a representation. 




Some pains have been taken, and no small de- 
gree of labour bestowed, in collecting the materi- 
als for this instrument. The body is of wood much 
lighter than deal ; the bridge and the eleven bars 
which it supports are of iron ; they are confined 
by a strip of bamboo fixed to the body or frame by 
strings of leather ; and they rest also on a piece of 
skin. The circular ornament is part of the brass 
frame of a print or looking glass ; and the circles 
are French brass buttons with the head of Louis 
XVI. on them. The tones are soft, and by no 
means unpleasing. 

Both men and women shave the head in orna- 
mental figures, according to fancy, and the brides 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 173 

are always close shaven before they are presented 
to their husbands ; this operation being performed 
on them by an old woman. The w omen seem to 
consider pendent breasts as ornamental, the young 
girls, as soon as they begin to form, pressing them 
close to the body and downwards withal with ban- 
dages. They also sometimes file the two front 
teeth away, and raise cicatrices on the skin as 
well as the men. 

The common ceremony of closing a bargain, of 
giving a receipt or an assurance, is by breaking a 
leaf, w hich is considered as then irrevocable ; and 
this ceremony we found necessary to perform with 
the seller of every fowl. 

Excepting one knife, which was stolen by a boy, 
we met with no instances of theft ; and on one of 
the great men being informed of the loss in this 
case, the whole of the persons present were called 
under the great tree, and asked individually if they 
had taken it ; when a boy confessed and produced 
it. 

There being now a general peace in the country, 
all the men go entirely unarmed, except when they 
go dow n the river in canoes, when there is usually 
a musket in each canoe. 

Among the number of their superstitions is that 
of refraining from different kinds of food at certain 
times and occasions; thus the men will not eat the 
flesh of a fowl until a woman has tasted of it, to 
take off the fetiche, as they express it. Pumpions 
and eggs are objects of similar superstitions; and 
when we killed the cow, the king sent one of his 
men to take the fetiche piece, as we learnt, for the 
Ganga or priest ; and they seemed to know^ the best 
piece, carrying off one of the hind quarters. 

The two prominent features, in their moral cha- 
racter and social state, seem to be the indolence 

12 



174 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

of the men and the degradation of the women ; the 
latter being considered as perfect slaves, whose 
bodies are at the entire disposal of their fathers, 
or husbands, and may be transferred by either of 
them, how and when they may please. The in- 
triguing with a man's wife without his knowledge is 
however punished by a fine of two slaves ; and if 
the adulterer cannot pay, the husband seems to be 
authorized to murder him. 

Both men and women rise at daylight, and after 
washing their skins, those who pretend to genti- 
lity rub their shoulders and bodies to the waist with 
palm oil, which, though it keeps their skins smooth, 
gives even to the women, who otherwise have not 
the same natural effluvia as the men, a most disa- 
greeable smell. 

There are much fewer mulattoes among them 
than might be expected from their intercourse with 
Europeans, two only having yet been seen by 
us. 

The mode of salutation is by gently clapping the 
hands, and an inferior at the same time goes on his 
knees and kisses the bracelet on the superior's 
ankle. 

They have no other manner of reckoning or 
keeping an account of time than by moons ; so that 
beyond half a dozen moons not one of them can 
tell the lapse of time since any event may have 
happened. The day they divide into morning or 
breakfast, noon or grand time, and evening or 
supper. The sea breeze was insufficient to bring 
the Congo up either this day or the 4th. 

August 4. This forenoon I landed on the main 
land opposite Booka Embomma, and found it com- 
posed of very rugged hills, chiefly granite, with 
very little wood. An Adansonia here measured 42 
feet in girth at the ground, and carried nearly the 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY*S NARRATIVE. 175 

isame circumference to the height of 30 feet. Where 
the boat anchored we found a regular tide, the rise 
and fall being 13 inches, and the current little or 
nothing during the rise. 

August 5. Got the Congo up to a good anchor- 
age on the south shore, opposite Chesalla island, 
where, finding we should be much retarded by per- 
severing in the attempt to get higher, from the pre- 
cariousness of the sea breezes, I ordered her to 
be moored, and directed Mr. Eyre, the purser, to 
remain in charge of her ; together with the surgeon, 
a master's mate, and 1 5 men. 



[ 17& j 



CHAPTER IV. 

?rdgress up the River as far as Yellala, or the Cataract. 

About the middle of the day we proceeded up 
the river in the double boats, the transport's long 
boat, two gigs, and one of the punts, having with 
me the lieutenant, master, one master's mate, the 
four scientific gentlemen, and Mr. Galwey. 

We found the river running between two high 
ridges of barren rocky hills, chiefly mica slate, 
with masses of quartz rising above the surface ; 
the slate running out in points, and the rocks under 
water forming strong ripplings and little eddies. 
In some spots, where the current has been turned 
aside by the rocky points, the river has deposited 
its mud, and formed little strips of soil covered 
with reedy grass, and some few little spots of In- 
dian corn. Off these places anchorage is always 
found on a good clay bottom in from four to eight 
fathoms, a boat's length from the grass ; beside* 
these narrow strips we this day counted several 
little valleys between the hills, forming the mouths 
of the ravines, the largest of which is named Vinda 
le Zally, and extends two miles along shore. In 
those valleys were some corn and manioc planta- 
tions, and many palm trees. The two rocks named 
by the natives Sandy, or Zonda, are of slate ; that 
named Oscar, by Maxwell, has a very large tree 
upon it, the -other only brushwood ; they are se- 
parated by a space of about 50 yards. On the 
north shore, nearly opposite these rocks, is a hang- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 177 

ing precipice, to which may be given the name of 
Lover's Leap, though in a sense different from 
that of Leucadia, this being the place of execu- 
tion of the adulterous wives of the king of Bomma, 
and their paramours, who are precipitated from 
the summit into the river. 

The rocks to which Maxwell has given the little 
appropriate name of Scjlla, lie close to the north 
shore, and form two masses of slate above water ; 
about 20 yards beyond them the rippling denotes 
another mass under water, but on which there is 
six fathoms depth. 

At seven o'clock the breeze failing, we anchored 
on the east entrance of the creek off* the Gombac 
islands, close to the grass, in six fathoms. 

Aug. 7. In the morning, it being calm, I went 
in the gig through the creek of Gombac, and found, 
though extremely narrow, that it had a depth of 
five to ten fathoms. There are but two islands, 
the separation marked by Maxwell between the 
two western ones being only a cove; they are 
mere rocks of slate with a good many trees. From 
them I landed on the main, and ascended the hills 
that form the Fiddler's Elbow of Maxwell, which 
are also composed entirely of slate, with vast mass- 
es of quartz on the surface, and w4th only thinly 
scattered bushes of a shrubby tree, of which the 
natives make their spoons. These spoons are 
made with great neatness, and not inferior in any 
respect to the same utensil in many parts of Eu- 
rope. Their knives, too, are not to be despised, 
but the blades are not always made by themselves ; 
though they always prefer their own hafts and 
sheaths. These articles arc represented on the 
following page. 



178 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY^S NARRATIVE. 




^ The ant hills were here extremely numerous, 
but now unoccupied, it appearing that these in- 
sects shift their habitations to the trees in this sea- 
son ; those on the ground have exactly the shape 
of a mushroom, consisting of a round column 18 
inches high, surmounted by a domed head two 
feet in diameter. 




CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 179 

We this morning observed a curious optical illu- 
sion, caused doubtless by the state of the atmo- 
sphere and the shadows of the high hills, the boats 
appearing to be placed on the pinnacle of an ele- 
vated mass of water, from which the descent was 
rapid on every side, so that in looking up the river 
the current seemed to be running up hill. By 
moonlight the reach we anchored in much resem- 
bled Loch Tay in Scotland. The rise of water in 
the wet season was here observed on the rocks, 
having worn two grooves, the first 8 feet above the 
present level, and the second and faintest 9i feet. 
The nature of the hills, as well as their appear- 
ance, prove that they do not absorb any of the 
water that falls in the rainy season, the whole of 
which is carried direct to the river by gullies and 
ravines, w ith which the hills are all over furrowed, 
and in which the only luxuriant vegetation is found. 

We got a few very small shrimps from a fisher- 
man, which he had just taken in a cotton scoop 
net, very well made. 

At 1 1 o'clock we weighed with a light breeze at 
west, and crossed over to the south side of the 
river, to near the banza Sooka Congo ; the Mafook 
of which sent his interpreter and gentlemen to ask 
for a bottle of brandy, which, not intending to stop 
near him, I did not think necessary to supply. We 
continued our course along shore until we reached 
the Diamond Rock of Maxwell, near to which, and 
to the south shore, we found the current too strong 
to be overcome with the sails and oars, and we an- 
cliored a little to the west of it. In the afternoon, 
however, the breezes freshened, we got through 
the channel, and at 7 anchored about 4 miles west 
of Condo Sono. 

The rock called Boola Beca in Maxwell's plan, 
is by the natives named Blemba (the husband), 



100 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

and the rock named the Tinker, to the east of it, 
is an islet. The largest and westernmost of the 
three rocks named Weird Sisters, the natives call 
N'Casan (the wife) ; they lay nearest to the north 
shore, which, according to the natives, is all foul. 
The Diamond Rock they name Salan Koonquotty, 
or the strong feather, alluding probably to the 
strength of the current, which is doubtless much 
increased in the rains, it being now about 3i miles 
an hour, running directly on the rocks, and forming 
a strong upward eddy on its west side, where the 
ground is very foul and shoal, so that no vessel 
should attempt this channel without a breeze suffi- 
cient to ensure her going over the current. 

On the summit of one of the hills which we pass- 
ed close under, were upwards of twenty monkeys, 
which, had we not seen their tails, we should, from 
their great size and black faces, have taken for 
negroes. 

Aug. 8. The hills which surround our last 
night's station are more barren than lower down, 
the strips of reedy grass and valleys less numerous, 
the palm trees are no longer seen, nor is there any 
cultivation whatever on the banks. Several per- 
sons came on board this morning from banza Noki, 
and from them we received the first coherent in- 
formation respecting the obstruction in the river, 
higher up, by what they state to be a great cata- 
ract named Yellala, only one day's march from 
Noki. 

At 10 weighed with a light breeze, and with the 
aid of the oars reached the spot named Condo 
Sono, where the European slave traders formerly 
transacted their business, but where there is now 
not a single hut. I immediately sent Simmons to 
the Chenoo of Noki, to request he would send me 
a person acquainted with the river higher up ; but 



}| 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. J 8] 

on his return in the evening, I ibund that nothing 
could be done without my own presence, and the 
usual dmh of a present of brandy. 

August 9. 1 went this morning up the river in 
the gig, and found the difficulties increase every 
mile, from the velocity of the current, and the 
ledges of rocks ; the barrenness of the hills also 
became greater, and the only trace of inhabitants 
was discovered in a few miserable fishermen, who 
take some small fish in scoop nets off the rocks 
and dry them. 

August 10. There being every prospect that 
we should not be able to proceed much further in 
the boats, and finding that there were many Man- 
donzo men at Noki, whose country is situated 
very far up the river, and whose manners and lan- 
guage were described to me as totally differing 
from those of Congo, I this day paid a visit to the 
Chenoo of Noki, to endeavour to ascertain these 
facts, and to procure guides. We were led a two 
hour's most fatiguing march before we reached the 
banza; sometimes scrambling up the sides of al- 
most perpendicular hills, and over great masses of 
quartz and schistus, sometimes getting on pretty 
smoothly along their, summits of hard clay, thinly 
scattered with brushwood, and sometimes de- 
scending into valleys covered with a rich soil 
and exuberant vegetation, the high and now 
withered grass choking up the little plantations. 
In two of those valleys we found banzas, differing 
in nothing from that of Bomma, except that the 
roofs of the huts formed the segment of a circle 
instead of a triangle ; close to them are two runs 
of water in ravines. At length we reached the 
banza, which is situated on the level summit of the 
highest hills amidst palm-trees, and plantations of 

13 



1}]2 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

vegetables, amongst which we were gratified with 
the sight of young cabbages in great perfection. 
In a few minutes I was ushered into the presence 
of the Chenoo, whom we found seated with two 
other Chenoos, in much more savage magnificence, 
but less of European manner, than the king of 
Bomma, the seats and ground being here covered 
with lions' and leopard skins, the treading on which, 
by a subject of the highest rank, is a crime pun- 
ished with slavery ; and the care with which they 
stepped clear of them in passing to and fro, evinc- 
^ ed that they never lost sight of the penalty. The 
A / Chenoo, besides his red cloak laced, had on his 
head an enormous high cap of the white feathers 
of the heron. One of the other kings was covered 
with an old hat, and the third was wrapped in a 
velvet mantle, and on his head a coronet, with a 
large button of coloured glass, which had evidently 
been procured from a theatre. The assembly was 
composed of about fifty persons squatted in the 
sand. Simmons having explained my wishes and 
the motives of the expedition, the Chenoo, with 
less deliberation or questioning than I had been 
plagued with at Bomma, granted two guides to go 
as far as the cataract, beyond which the country 
was to them a terra incognita, not a single person 
of the banza having ever been beyond it. The 
palaver being over, the keg of brandy I had brought 
was opened, and a greater scramble than even at 
Bomma took place for a sup of the precious liquor ; 
and towards the conclusion, one having been unable 
to catch a share, his neighbour, who had been more 
fortunate, and who had kept it, as long as he could 
hold in his breath, (as they always do), very gene- 
rously spat a portion of this mouthful into the. 
other's mouth! The Chenoo apologized forhav^ 



f I 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE, 183 

ing nothing drest to offer us to eat, but directed a 
small pig to be carried to the boat, which on kill- 
ing we found to be measly and unfit to eat. 

We saw no women during this audience, but a 
considerable portion of the assembly was com- 
posed of boys of all ages down to four or five, and 
those young urchins were observed to pay the 
utmost attention to the discourse of the men, and 
to express their approbation by clapping their 
hands. 

On our return we were conducted by a slave- 
merchant of Simmons' acquaintance, by a road at first 
much more pleasant than that we had come, being 
along the summits of hills which are highly fertile, 
and in great part cultivated, but in the most care- 
less manner. The vegetables we saw were ma- 
nioc, Indian corn, a species of shrubby holcus, 
French beans, cabbages or greens, ground nuts in 
great quantity, and bird pepper. The fruit con- 
sisted of limes, papaws, and plantains, all at pre- 
sent immature. 

Our conductor led us to his town (for every man 
of property calls his residence his town), where 
we were agreeably surprised to find a repast pre- 
pared, consisting of a stewed fowl, a dish of stewed 
beans, and cassava bread named Coanga. The 
stews were however so highly peppered that our 
gentlemen, not accustomed to such warmth of sea- 
soning, could scarcely swallow them ; a bottle of 
spirits, in which some anniseed had been infused, 
was also set before us. The remains of our repast 
was served to the marines. The water brought 
to us issued from a rock, its temperature TS""; the 
barometer at the banza fell two inches lower than 
at the river side, which, according to Leslie's 
scale, gives the elevation about 1300 feet. 

AVhilc at our repast, the back ground of the 



184 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

court in which we were, was filled with women 
and girls, separated by a space from the men and 
boys. Though not one of them had ever seen a 
white man, they did not seem to feel any timidity, 
but on the contrary we had abundant opportunity 
of discovering that, as far as depended on them- 
selves, they were perfect Otaheitans in their man- 
ners. One woman we saw spinning cotton for a 
fishing net exactly in the manner the French wo- 
men do while tending their sheep. 

The latter part of our journey, as we again ap- 
proached the river, was even worse than our road 
going, being obhged to ascend and descend a suc- 
cession of hills, of smooth rocks, so nearly perpen- 
dicular, that it required almost the legs of flies to 
crawl over them, and here the natives had greatly 
the advantage of us, the soles of their naked feet 
seizing hold of the rock, while our shoes slipped 
over them and threatened us every moment with a 
fall that would not have been without danger ; at 
length we reached the boats at 4 o'clock extremely 
fatigued, though the distance of the banza is not 
more than three miles in a direct line from the river, 
but by the circuitous route we took, could not be 
less than seven or eight. 

The most striking features of the country we 
passed over are the extreme barrenness of the hills 
near the river, the whole being still composed of 
slate with masses of quartz, and sienite, the latter 
becoming the main formation, as we advanced to 
the S. E. with perpendicular fissures from three 
inches to ^ inch in breadth, filled with quartz. 
The summits of the hills and the valleys are oi 
stiff clay and vegetable mould extremely fertile. 
We did not see the smallest trace of any thing 
calcarious, nor the signs of any other metal than 
iron. 



^ CAPTAIN TUCKET'S NARRATIVE. 185 

August 11. We had no visiters until near noon, 
when four women came to the river's side, opposite 
the boats, to make market, having a single fowl, 
half a dozen eggs, and a small basket of beans to 
sell ; we were soon told that the oldest was a prin- 
cess of the blood in her own right, and that conse- 
quently she enjoyed the privilege of choosing her 
husband and changing him as often as she liked, 
while he was confined to her alone, under penalty, 
if a private person, of being sold as a slave. This 
lady, after getting for her fowl and other articles 
twice their value, offered herself and her three 
companions (who, we were assured, were the Che- 
noo's daughters) ibr hire, to whoever would take 
them on board the boats, and seemed to be much 
disappointed at the apathy of white men, when 
they found their advances treated with neglect. 

In the afternoon a couple of small sheep, a goat, 
and a few fowls, w ere brought for sale ; but for one 
of the former the owner had the conscience to ask 
a full piece of blue baft and two caps, which cost 
30 shillings in England, making the meat consider- 
ably above a shilling a pound ; so that we were 
obliged lo confine ourselves to the purchase of a 
goat for four fathoms of printed cotton. Indeed, 
from the very little spare provisions the natives 
seem to have at this season, I do not think it would 
be possible to procure daily subsistence for fifty 
men in passing through the country. Towards 
evening two men were sent from the Chenoo as 
guides for Yellala, but one of them having evi- 
dently never been there, I sent him back. A Man- 
dingo slave man was brought to me, bound neck 
and heels with small cords. His answers to the 
questions put to him were, " that he was three 
moons coming from his country, sometimes on 
rivers, sometimes by land ; that his own country 



|g6 CAPTAIN TUCKEY*S NARRATIVE. 

was named M'intolo, on the banks of a river as 
broad as the Zaire, where we were at anchor, but 
so filled with rocks, that even canoes could not be 
used on it ; and that he had been taken when 
walking a short distance from his father's house, 
by a slave-catcher, who had shot him in the neck 
with a ball, the cicatrice of the wound still remain- 
ing; and that he had been about two years from 
his country." Although his reckoning of the lapse 
of time could not be depended on, he evidently had 
not been long caught^ for he spoke the Congo lan- 
guage but very imperfectly; nevertheless, as he 
understood enough of it to make himself intelligi- 
ble, I thought he might be of use and purchased 
him, giving an order for his value to be paid on 
board the Congo, and taking care to explain to the 
natives my motives for buying him, as well as that 
I gave him his liberty on the instant, and only con- 
gidered him as a servant ; and finally, that if we 
arrived at his country, I would restore him to his 
friends. When this was explained to him he ex- 
pressed not the least mark of satisfaction, and per- 
mitted the people to take off the cords which had 
served to bind him with apparent apathy ; indeed 
our people seemed to have more satisfaction in 
performing, than he felt in undergoing this opera- 
tion. In concluding this bargain, I had a specimen 
of the tedious manner of doing business amongst the 
native traders, the intervention of the Mafook,Mam- 
bouk, and a broker, being necessary between me 
and the seller ; and each of these fellows expect- 
ed two fathoms of baft, and as much brandy as 
they could drink. This roundabout way of trad- 
ing, and the indecision of the sellers, must, I should 
suppose, have been a great drawback on the pro- 
fits of the slave trade, by the time it kept them on 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 187 

the coast ; for I am assured, that though fifty slaves 
may be brought, to market in a day, not three are 
usually sold. The same huckstering is indeed vi- 
sible in every branch of their trading with Euro- 
peans ; the possessor of a single fowl, or a root of 
the manioc, examining the articles offered him fifty 
times, giving them back, taking them again, ex- 
changing them for something else, and after putting 
patience to the test for an hour, often taking up 
his goods and marching off, because he could not 
get twice or thrice what he first asked. 

Aug. 12. At nine this morning we weighed, and 
with the aid of the oars, and a track rope at times, 
got the boats up along the south shore, until we 
came to a large sand bank extending two-thirds 
across the river ; here we crossed over to the other 
side, and ran along it as far as a little island named 

Here we found the current so rapid, 

that with a strong breeze and the oars we could not 
pass it; besides, having observed when up here in 
the gig, that the north shore above this island was 
extremely foul, I crossed over, and after considera- 
ble difficulty succeeded in getting to an an- 
chor in a fine little cove named Nomaza, entirely 
out of the current. In crossing the river we passed 
several whirlpools, which swept the sloop round and 
round in spite of her oars and sails, and not without 
some danger to so low and deep laden a boat. 
These vortices are formed in an instant, last but 
a few moments with considerable noise, and sub- 
side as quickly. The punt got into one of them and 
entirely disappeared in the hollows, so that the de- 
pression of the vortex must have been three or four 
feet. The schooner could not succeed in passing 
Zoonga Tooley Calavangoo, and anchored on the 
opposite shore; but a very strong sea breeze spring- 
ing up in the evening she joined me. 



138 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

In the afternoon I went on shore and ascended 
the highest hills under which we. were anchored, 
and whose elevation might be 500 feet. From 
hence our upward view of the river was confined to 
a single short reach, the appearance of which, how- 
ever, was sufficient to convince us, that there was 
little prospect of being able to get the double boats 
up much farther, and none at all of being able to trans- 
port them bj land. Both sides of the river appeared 
to be lined by rocks above water, and the middle 
obstructed by whirlpools^ whose noise we heard in 
a constant roar, just where our view terminated by 
the closing in of the points. High breakers seemed 
to cross the river ; and this place we learnt was 
called Casan Yellala, or Yellala's wife, and were 
told that no canoe ever attempted to pass it. The 
most distant hill, whose summit appeared above the 
rest at the distance of perhaps 7 or 8 leagues, we 
found was that of Yellala. The appearance of the 
river here was compared by Dr. Smith to the tor- 
rent rivers of Norway, and particularly the Glomr 
men, the hills on each side being high, precipitous 
towards the river, totally barren, and separated by 
such deep ravines as to preclude the idea of con- 
veying even a canoe over them, without immense 
labour. Two tufts of trees on the summits of the 
northern hills, we understood from a fisherman, 
were the plantations round the banzas. The only 
other information we could get from him was, that 
Yellala was the residence of the evil spirit, and 
that whoever saw it once would never see it a se- 
cond time. 

This has been the only tolerable clear day since 
our entering the river ; the sun being visible both a1 
rising and setting, and the thermometer at two 
o'clock at 80°. This heat produced a breeze in 
the evening stronger than any we before experi- 



CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. 189 

enced, and which continued all night. On a little 
i»and beach, ofT which the boats were anchored, 
there is a regular rise and fall of water of eight 
inches ; during the rise, the current is considerably 
slackened. 

Aug. 13. This morning at daylight I went up the 
river with the master in the gigs, to ascertain the 
utility of carrying the boats any farther. By cross- 
ing over from shore to shore as the current was 
found slackest, we found no difficulty in getting up 
to Casan Yellala, which is about three miles above 
where the boats lay. We found it to be a ledge 
of rocks stretching across the north shore about 
two-thirds the breadth of the river (which here does 
not exceed half a mile), the current breaking furi- 
ously on it, but leaving a smooth channel near the 
south shore, where the velocity of the current seems 
the only obstacle to the ascent of boats, and that I 
should consider as none to my progress with the 
boats, did there appear to be the smallest utility in 
getting them above it. But as the shore on either 
side presents the most stupendous overhanging 
rocks, to whose crags alone the boats could be se- 
cured, while an impetuous current flows beneath; 
and as every information makes Yellala a cataract, 
of great perpendicular fall, to which the approach 
is far easiest from the place near which the boats 
are now anchored in perfect safety, I determined to 
visit this cataract by land, in order to determine on 
my future operations. 

Accordingly at 8 o'clock on the morning of the 1 4th 
1 landed on the northshore, in a cove with a fine sandy 
beach, covered with the dung of the hippopotamus, 
exactly resembling that of the horse. My party 
consisted of Messrs. Smith, Tudor, Galwey, and 
Hodder, and 13 men, besides two Embomma inter- 
preters (the Chenoo's sons), and a guide from Noki, 
with four days provisions. Our route lay by nar- 

14 



190 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

row footpaths, at first over most difficult hills, and 
then along a level plateau of fertile land ; in short, 
over a country resembling that between the river 
and Noki. Our course lay between E. N. E. and 
N. E. At noon we reached Banza Coo loo, from 
whence we understood we should see Yellala. 
Anxious to get a sight of it, I declined the Chenoo's 
invitation to visit him, until my return. On the 
farthest end of the banza we unexpectedly saw the 
fall almost under our feet, and were not less sur- 
prised than disappointed at finding, instead of a 
second Niagara, which the description of the na- 
tives, and their horror of it had given us reason to 
expect, a comparative brook bubbling over its sto- 
ny bed. Halting the people, who complained of 
fatigue, I went with the gentlemen to examine it 
more closely, and found that what the road wanted 
in distance, which was not a mile from the banza, 
it abundantly made up in difficulty, having one 
enormous hill to descend and a lesser one to climb, 
to reach the precipice w^hich overhangs the river. 

The south side of the river is here a vast hill of 
bare rock (sienite,) and the north a lower but 
more precipitous hill of the same substance, be- 
tween which two the river has forced its course ; 
but in the middle an island of slate still defies its 
power, and breaks the current into two narrow 
channels ; that near the south side gives vent to the 
great mass of the river, but is obstructed by rocks 
above and under water, over which the torrent 
rushes with great fury and noise, as may easily be 
conceived. The channel on the north side is now 
nearly dry, and is composed of great masses of 
slate, with perpendicular fissures. The highest 
part of the island is 15 feet above the present level, 
but from the marks on it, the water in the rainy 
season must rise 12 feet, consequently covers the 
whole of the breadth of the channel, with the excep- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARllATIVK. lOl 

lion of the summit of tlie island ; and uith the in- 
creased velocity, must then produce a fall some- 
what more consonant to the description of the na- 
tives. In ascending two hills we observed the 
river both above and below the fall to be obstructed 
by rocks as far as we could see, which might be a 
distance of about four milQ|. Highly disappointed 
in our expectations of seeing a grand cataract, and 
equally vexed at finding that the progress of the 
boats would be stopped, we climbed back to our 
people, whom we reached at four o'clock totally 
exhausted. 

The principal idea that the fall creates is, that 
the quantity of water which flows over it, is by no 
means equal to the volume of the river below it ; 
and yei^ as we know there is not at this season a 
single tributary stream sufficient to turn a mill, be- 
low the fall, we can hardly account for this vo- 
lume, unless we suppose, as Dr. Smith suggests, 
the existence of subterranean communications, or 
caverns filled with water. 

After having refreshed and rested ourselves, I 
waited on the Chenoo with a little brandy, and 
found less pomp and noise, but much more civility 
and hospitality, than from the richer kings I had 
visited. This old man seemed perfectly satisfied 
with our account of the motives of our visit, not 
asking a single question, treating us with a little 
palm wine, and sending me a present of six fowls 
without asking for any thing in return. In one of 
the courts of his tenement we had the disagreeable 
sight of two men slaves prepared for sale, one 
having a long fork stick fastened to his neck, and 
the other with European-made irons on his legs ; on 
inquiry I found that there were 14 slaves in the 
banza for sale, who were going to Embomma. 

The night was cool, the thermometer at one 
o'clock being at 60°; in the early part the stars 



192 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

shone brightly, but towards morning it became 
very cloudy ; and at daylight we might easily have 
fancied ourselves amidst the blue misty hills of 
Morven. 

August 15th. In the morning we were surround- 
ed by all the women of the banza with fowls and 
eggs to exchange for beads. In the eggs we were 
however taken in, more than half we purchased 
having been taken from under the hens half hatch- 
ed. Although the largest banza we have seen, we 
could not procure either a sheep, goat, or pig for 
the people. 

Having engaged a guide to lead us above the 
falls (the hills close to the river being absolutely 
impassable by any thing but goats), we quitted the 
banza at seven o'clock, and after four hours most 
fatiguing march we again got sight of the river ; 
but to my great vexation, instead of being 12 or 
13 miles, as I expected, I found we were not above 
four miles from Yellala, our guide having persuaded 
me out of my own judgment, that the river wound 
round in a way that made the crescent we took 
necessary. Here we found the river still obstruct- 
ed with rocks and islets sometimes quite across, 
but at one place leaving a clear space, which seems 
to be used as a ferry, as we found here a canoe 
with four men; no inducement we could offer them 
had however any eflfect in prevailing on them to 
attempt going up the stream, which I wished to de 
to examine the state of the river more exactly. 

In this day's journey we crossed three deep ra- 
vines, the beds of torrents in the rainy season, 
but now quite dry, and but once found water at a 
very small spring. One antelope's skin was seen 
with the natives, and the dung of these animals 
occurred in many spots ; several porcupines' quills 
were also picked up. On quitting the river I de- 
termined to cross the hills in a direction that I ex- 



CAPTAIN TUCKRY'S NARRATIVE. 193 

pected would again bring me to it considerably 
higher up, but the setting sun obliged us to halt on 
the side of a steep hill, at whose foot we fortu- 
nately found a fine spring, forming the only brook 
we had yet seen; and here we passed the night, 
which was much warmer than the preceding one, 
the thermometer not falling below 70°, the sky 
cloudy, but not the least dew. The constant dry- 
ness of the atmosphere is evinced in the quick dry- 
ing of all objects exposed to it ; meat hung up a 
few hours loses all its juices, and resembles the 
jerked meat of South America ; the plants collect- 
ed by Dr. Smith were fit for packing in a day, 
while, towards the mouth of the river, he could 
scarcely get them sufficiently dry in a week. The 
oxidation of iron also entirely ceases here. The 
hygrometer at sunrise usually marks 50°, at two 
o'clock in the afternoon in the shade 70°. 

August 16. Finding Mr. Tudor and several of 
the people were unable to proceed farther, I sent 
them back to Banza Cooloo in the morning, and 
with the remainder proceeded onwards. Passing 
the brook and ascending the hill on the opposite 
side, we found ourselves on a level plateau at the 
banza Menzy Macooloo, where we again got a 
guide to lead us to the river. At noon we had a 
view of it between the openings of the hills, about 
two miles distant. Here the people, being ex- 
tremely fatigued, were halted, while the natives 
went to the river for water, and I ascended the 
highest of the hills, which descends perpendicu- 
larly to the river : from its summit I had a view 
about five miles down the river, which presented 
the same appearance as yesterday, being filled with 
rocka in the middle, over which the current foamed 
violently ; the shore on each side was also scatter- 
ed with rocky barren islets. The river is here, 
judging by the eye, not more than } mile broad* 



194 CAPTAIN TLXJEEY'S NARRATIVE. 

and I estimate the distance from Yellala at 12 or 
14 miles. Upwards my view was stopped by the 
sudden turn of the river from north to S. E. ; the 
concavity of the angle forming a large bay, appa- 
rently freer from obstructions than below. I de- 
scended a most precipitous path to the river side, 
where I found four women fishing with a scoop net ; 
they had no canoe, and I learnt that persons want- 
ing to cross the river are obliged to go from hence 
to the ferry above Yellala. Just where the river 
shuts in, in turning to the S. E., on a high plateau 
of the north shore, is the banza Inga, which we un- 
derstood was two days march from Cooloo (though 
its direct distance is not above 20 miles,) and that 
it is out of the dominions of Congo. The only 
other information I could get here was, that the 
river, after a short reach to the S. E., turned again 
to the north ; and the appearance of the hills seem- 
ed to corroborate this information ; but as to the 
state of its navigation, or the possibility of getting 
canoes, I could not acquire the slightest notion. 

On the return of the people with water from the 
river we dined where the men halted, and set out 
on our return for the boats; at eight o'clock we 
reached Cooloo (having this day walked ten hours), 
where we found Mr. Tudor in a violent fever. 

It was by great persuasion we could get our 
guide to go on after sunset, through his fears of 
wild beasts, and his superstitious terrors of the 
night combined ; and every five minutes he sound- 
ed a whistle, which it seems had been fetiched by 
the Gangam kissey ; and consequently both spirits 
and beasts fled at the sound. The only traces of 
animals we saw this day were the foot prints of 
buffaloes, who had been to the brook we crossed 
in the morning to drink ; and we' were surprised 
how so bulky an animal could ascend the hills ; 
indeed the marfo; showed that m descending they 



CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. 



195 



had slidden considerable distances on their hind 
legs. A wild hog also crossed us, making from 
thicket to thicket ; but our men were not fortunate 
enough to hit him, though four of them fired. 

Having crossed in a direct line from one of the 
fertile plateaus to the river, we had a good oppor- 
tunity of seeing the formation and structure of the 
country near its banks ; of which I have attempted 
to give an idea below. 




196 CAPTA.IN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

The margin of the river and the rocks in it are 
of micaceous slate ; next to which small hills of 
loose round pebbles of quartz ; then more ele- 
vated hills of ferruginous claj vrith masses of 
quartz ; next hills of yellow clay with masses of 
sienite ; and lastly, steep hills with rocky sides 
(sienite), but with long levels at the summit, co- 
vered with a fertile vegetable soil, and on which 
most of the banzas are situated. The hills of quartz 
pebbles have every appearance of once having been 
the bed of the river, the pebbles having evidently 
been rounded, and the hills received their forms^ 
by the long and violent action of water. If we as- 
sume, what seems highly probable, that the pre- 
sent obstruction at Yellala was once a real cata- 
ract of equal elevation with the opposite shores, 
this surmise of the river having formed these hills 
of pebbles will acquire a certainty ; for in that 
case, the water kept up by the cross ridge or cata- 
ract would have covered these hills. A great 
quantity of quartz sand is thrown up on the sides 
of the river among the rocks. 

At night the hills appear to be in a continued 
blaze of fire, from the hunters in the day setting 
fire to the long dry grass to drive out the animals. 
The fire running to windward, as is always the case, 
the hunters keep to leeward of the spot fired, and 
the game, it would appear, being also aware of 
the direction which the fire will take, endeavour to 
avoid it, by also running to leeward, and conse- 
quently throw themselves within the hunter's reach. 
The guns we have seen among them are of Portu- 
guese or French manufacture, and of a great 
length ; each has usually several fetiches fastened 
to it, to prevent it from doing the owner any in- 
jury. 

Aug. 17. In the morning we prepared for our 
return to the boats, when Mr. Tudor, being too ill 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. l97 

to move, was obliged to be carried in a litter made 
of one of the black men's blankets ; the other inva- 
lids, exceeding half the party, were sent forward 
with him under charge of Mr. Hodder, while I went 
to take leave of the Chenoo. Having performed 
this ceremony, and given him two fathoms of bafts, 
I quitted Cooloo, came up with the invalids in a 
short time, and reached the boats at noon, when a 
tent was immediately pitched on shore for Mr. Tu- 
dor, who was now in a most violent fever. The 
complaints of the other men were confined to fa- 
tigue and blistered feet. 

During this excursion we seldom met with water 
to fill our canteens (that of the river excepted), 
more than once a day, and the springs were gene- 
rally very small. The only provisions we could 
procure were a few fowls and eggs, some cassada 
root, green plantains, and beans; but all in quan- 
tities totally insufficient to supply the daily expen- 
diture of 20 men. We did not see a single sheep or 
goat, and not above two or three pigs. Palm wine, 
which we found infinitely more refreshing and grate- 
ful to the stomach, when heated and fatigued, than 
either wine or spirits and water, is at this season 
extremely scarce, owing to the long drought; so 
that, though every banza and gentleman's town is 
surrounded by these trees (from 20 to 200 at each), 
we often could not procure it even in exchange for 
brandy. It appears that the rainy season, for these 
last two years, has been very moderate, and the 
lighter rains, that usually happen in June, have 
been entirely wanting this year, which accounts for 
the bu rut-up appearance of the country, and the 
very little water. It is however expected by the 
natives, that the ensuing rainy season will be pro- 
portionally violent ; and they are now preparing for 
it, by fresh covering and repairing their huts. They 

15 



198 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

say that every third or fourth year the river rises 
considerably higher than in the intermediate ones ; 
and this accounts for the different elevation of the 
marks on the rocks. 

Thus far the banks of the river do not afford a 
single timber tree capable of making a beam or 
timber for a sloop of war. The only trees that grow 
to a large size, are the Adansonia and the Bombax 
(or wild cotton), and the wood of both is spongy 
and useless ; several varieties of evergreens, highly 
ornamental in their growth and foliage, are how- 
ever met with in the valleys. 

The only appearance of metals is in the ferrugi- 
nous clay and stones near the river, which the na- 
tives grind, and of these form their pots for boiling 
(their only cooking utensil) ; these small stones 
rounded to the size of a pea, serve them for small 
shot. Small particles of copper were observed by 
Dr. Smith in some of the specimens of minerals he 
collected. 

During my absence the seine was hauled, but not 
a single fish was taken. The only implements of 
fishing seen with the natives were the scoop-net, 
already spoken of, and a kind of fish pot of reeds. 
The fish we could procure from them are all very 
small, with the exception of one which I bought, 
and whose skin Mr. Cranch preserved. It appears 
to be of the genus Murena, Testaceous fish are 
extremely few ; a single shell {Helix) found on the 
summit of one of the hills near a fishing hut, and an 
oyster taken up by the dredge, are all we have been 
able to procure. 

On the banks we have found snares for taking 
beach birds, nearly resembling those used in Ire- 
land to catch snipes, being an elastic twig with a bit 
of line and noose, which catches the bird's neck. 

The higher we proceed the fewer European ar- 
ticles the natives possess ; the country grass-cloth 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 199 

generally forms the sole clothing of the mass of the 
people, and gourds are substitutes for glass bottles, 
or earthen mugs. The women too approach nearer 
to a state of nudity; their sole clothing being a 
narrow apron (the breadth of the hand and 18 
inches long) before and behind, so that the hips on 
each side are uncovered. From every town near 
to which we passed, they flocked out to look at the 
white men (moiMe), and without any marks of ti- 
midity came and shook hands with us. To the best 
looking and the best dressed I distributed some 
beads. The price paid here, by a native, for a wife 
of the first class, the Chenoo's daughter for instance, 
is four pieces of baft, one piece of guinea, and a 
certain quantity of palm wine. We in no instance 
since we left Embomma found the men allant en 
avant in their offer of their women; but this our 
Bomma men told us was from their little intercourse 
with Europeans, for that any of them would think 
himself honoured by surrendering his wife or 
daughter to a white man. 

The population seems to be extremely thin, and 
(leaving out the insignificant number of fishermen 
who remain on the rocks at the river side) is col- 
lected into banzas and gentlemens' towns; tlie 
largest of the former (Cooloo) does not contain 
above 300 souls, of whom two-thirds are women 
and children. The extent of fertile land is, how- 
ever, capable, with very moderate industry, of sup- 
porting a great increase of population, not the one- 
hundredth part of that we have passed over being 
made any use of whatever. The plateaus appear 
to be well adapted for wheat, and certainly all the 
garden vegetables of Europe might be produced 
here in perfection, as well as potatoes. 

According to our informers, tlie dominions of 
Congo extend from below Malemba, cutting the 
coast and river to Banza N'Inga : but hoAV far they 



200 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARKATIVE. 

extend to the south of the river's mouth, or up it on 
the south side, we could not learn, but it seems to 
be considerably higher up the river than Inga. The 
paramount sovereign is named Lindj, or Blindy 
N'Congo, and resides at Banza Congo, six day^ 
journey in the interior from Tall Trees (on the 
south side of the river) ; it has no water communi- 
cation with the Zaire. Here the Portuguese ap- 
pear to have a fixed settlement, the natives speak- 
ing of their having soldiers and white women. 

The opposite sides of the river form two vice- 
royalties, that on the north being governed by the 
N'Sandy N'Congo, and the south by N'Cucula 
Congo, both of whom reside at banzas in the inte- 
rior. 

The Chenooships, improperly named kingdoms 
by Europeans, are hereditary fiefs, passing in the 
female line ; that is, on the decease of the Chenoo 
the succession, instead of passing to his son, goes 
to his brother, or uterine uncle or cousin. On 
every demise a fresh investiture takes place by the 
viceroy's sending a cap (here the mark of all dig- 
nity) to the appointed successor ; but though it is 
necessary that the succession should be continued 
in the family, the viceroy is not restricted to near- 
ness of kin or primogeniture, but as favour, corrup- 
tion or intrigue operates strongest, the investiture 
is given. The Chenoo, in his turn, appoints seve- 
ral inferior officers by sending them caps, particu- 
larly the Mafook, or custom master, who interferes 
in all trading transactions. The Mombella, Ma- 
caya and Mambom, are officers whose respective 
powers I have not yet been able to ascertain with 
any certainty. Slavery is here of two kinds, which 
may be denominated household or domestic, and 
trading. When a young man is of age to begin the 
world, his father or guardian gives him the means 
of purchasing a number of slaves of each sex, in 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 201 

proportion to his quality, from whom he breeds his 
domestic slaves, and these (though it does not ap- 
pear that he is bound by any particular law) he ne- 
yer sells or transfers, unless in cases of misbeha- 
viour, when he holds a palaver, at which they are 
tried and sentenced. These domestic slaves are, 
however, sometimes pawned for debt, but are al- 
ways redeemed as soon as possible. The only re- 
straint on the conduct of the owners, towards their 
domestic slaves, seems to be the fear of their de- 
sertion ; for if one is badly treated, he runs off, and 
goes over to the territory of another Chenoo, where 
he is received by some proprietor of land, which 
inevitably produces a feud between the people of 
the two districts. The trading or marketable slaves 
are those purchased from the itinerant black slave 
merchants, and are either taken in war, kidnap- 
ped, or condemned for crimes; the first two of 
these classes, however, evidently form the great 
mass of the exported slaves ; and it would seem 
that the kidnapped ones (or as the slave merchants 
who speak English call it " catching in the bush"), 
are by far the most numerous. This practice how- 
ever is certainly unknown at present on the banks 
of this river as far as we have yet proceeded. 

The property which a man dies possessed of de- 
volves to his brothers or uterine uncles, but pre- 
scriptively, as it would appear, for the use of the 
family of the deceased ; for they are bound by cus- 
tom (which is here tantamount to our written laws) 
to provide in a proper manner for the wives and 
children of the deceased ; and the wives they may 
make their own, as in the Mosaic dispensation. 

Crimes are punished capitally by decapitation, 
by gradual amputation of the limbs, by burning and 
by drowning. The only capital crimes, however, 
seem to be poisoning, and adultery with the wives 
of the great men. This latter crime, it would ap- 



202 CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. 

pear, being punished in proportion to the rank of 
the husband. Thus a private man accepts twa 
slaves from the aggressor ; but the son of a Chenoo 
cannot thus compromise his dishonour, but is held 
bound to kill the aggressor ; and if he escapes his 
pursuit, he may take the life of the first relation of 
the adulterer he meets ; and the relatives of this 
latter, by a natural re-action, revenging this injus- 
tice on the other party, or one of his relations, is 
one of the grand causes of the constant animosities 
of the neighbouring villages. If a man poisons an 
equal, he is simply decapitated ; but if an inferior 
commits this crime (the only kind of secret murder) 
on a superior, the whole of his male relations are 
put to death, even to the infants at the breast. 

When a theft is discovered, the gangam kissey or 
priest, is applied to, and the whole of the persons 
suspected are brought before him. After throwing 
himself into violent contortions, which the specta- 
tors consider as the inspirations of the kissey or fe- 
tiche, he fixes on one of the party as the thief, and 
the latter is led away immediately to be sentenced 
by a palaver. Of course the judgment of the priest 
is guided either by chance, or by individual enmity ; 
and though (as our informer assured us) the judg- 
ment was often found to be false, it derogates no- 
thing from the credit of the gangam, who throws the 
whole blame on the kissey. 

The frequency of the crime of putting poison in 
victuals, has established the custom of the master 
invariably making the person, who presents him 
with meat or drink, taste it first; and in offering 
either to a visiter, the host performs this ceremony 
himself; this the natives, who speak English, call 
'-' taking off the fetiche." 

Both sexes paint themselves with red ochre; and 
before a bride is conveyed to her husband, she is 
smeared with this substance from head to foot. — 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 203 

The men also make marks on their foreheads and 
arms with both red and white clays ; but the only 
answer we could get to our inquiries respecting 
these practices was, that they were done by order 
of the gangam kissey. 

Besides a prevalent cutaneous disorder or itch, 
several cases of elephantiasis were observed, and 
two patients with gonorrhoea applied to our doctor; 
this, however, they told us was a present from the 
Portuguese. 

The only game we have seen them play at was 
a kind of drafts named looela, the implements of 
which are a flat stone 18 inches square with 16 ca- 
vities grooved in it, and a small stone in each cavi- 
ty, as in the annexed figure. 





































• 

















i 








Q 


I 









1 



204 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVlE. 

The impossibility of procuring information to be 
at all depended on from the natives, respecting 
the course of the river or the nature of the country, 
proceeds equally from their want of curiosity, ex- 
treme indolence, and constant state of war with 
each other. Hence, I have never been able to pro- 
cure a guide farther than from banza to banza, or 
at the utmost a day's journey ; for at every banza 
we were assured that, after passing the next, we 
should get into the Bushmen's country, where they 
would be in danger of being shot or kidnapped. 
Thus at Cooloo, it was only by the promise of hand- 
some pay, and still more through the assurance of 
safety offered by our muskets, that I could prevail 
on a guide to promise to accompany me to banza 
Inga. 

All my endeavours to find a slave trader who 
knew something of the river have been fruitless. 
One man at Cooloo presented himself, and said he 
had been a month's journey from that place, but 
always travelled by land, except in the passage of 
several rivers by canoes and fords ; the direction 
of his course appeared to be to the N. E., and the 
country, according to him, more mountainous than 
where we are. Indeed it appears that the people 
of Congo never go themselves for slaves, but 
that they are always brought to them by those they 
call bushmen, v/ho, they say, have no towns nor 
acknowledge any government. All however agree 
in asserting that the country on the south is still 

- - ^'Ificult than that on the north, which, to- 
ith there appearing to be no traces of the 
?se missions on the latter,* as well as the 

u the crucifixes left by the missionaries were strange - 
ith the native fetiches, and the people seemed by no 
'oved by this melange of Christian and Pagan idolatry. 



CAPTAIN TUCKEYS NARRATIVE. 205 

river again taking a direction to the north, induces 
me to prefer this side for my farther progress. 

Aug. 19. In pursuance of my intention to en- 
deavour to get as far as possible by the north bank 
of the river, I sent this morning Lieut. Hawkey 
with eight men, to form a depot of provisions at 
Cooloo. 

Aug. 20. Sent Mr. Fitzmaurice with eight men, 
with a second proportion of provisions, to proceed 
to Cooloo, where 1 learnt Mr. Hawkey arrived late 
last night. I shall to-morrow proceed with ] 4 men 
for the same place, from thence for bahza Inga, 
sending the boats down to rejoin the Congo. 



16 



[ 206 ] 



CHAPTER V. 

Progress from the Cataract, or Cooloo, by Land chiefly, to the 
Termination of the Journey. 

Having arranged matters at the double-boats, 1 
quitted the river with the remainder of my party 
at 11 o'clock, and reached Cooloo myself at two ; 
but for want of hands was obliged to leave part of 
the burdens behind, until the people could be sent 
back for them. Visited the Chenoo, who gave me 
a fine sheep, and promised me a guide, and some 
men to assist in conveying our things to Inga. 

Aug. 21. With the usual delay, I waited this 
whole day for the guide and bearers, without either 
making their appearance ; and in the afternoon I 
received a visit from the Chenoo, when I found 
that the delay proceeded from my not having 
given presents to the Mambom, Macaya, and half 
a dozen other gentlemen. As the giving way to 
such pretensions would very soon exhaust my 
stock, I positively refused all their solicitations 
for the moment, promising, however, that when I 
returned I would treat them as their conduct to 
white men should have deserved. After a long 
palaver, in which the disappointed party was ex- 
tremely violent, the more moderate remained mas- 
ters of the field, and it was determined that the 
Chenoo's son should accompany me as a guide the 
next morning. 

The night scene at this place requires the pen- 
cil to delineate it. In the foreground an immense 
Adansonia, under which our tents are pitched, 
with the fires of our people throwing a doubt- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 207 

ful light over them ; before us the lofty and per- 
pendicular hills that form the south side of Yel- 
lala, with its ravines (in which only vegetation 
is found) on fire, presenting the appearance of the 
most brilliantly illuminated amphitheatre; and 
finally, the hoarse noise of the fall, contrasted with 
the perfect stillness of the night, except when bro- 
ken by the cry of our sentinels " all's well," conti- 
nued to create a sensation to which even our 
sailors were not indifferent. 

The conclusion of the night I however found not 
so pleasant; awaking extremely unwell, I directly 
swallowed five grains of calomel, and moved my- 
self until I produced a strong perspiration. 

Aug. 22. Though still very unwell, I had every 
thing prepared to be off at daylight with half the 
party tor Inga, intending to leave the remainder at 
Cooloo, until I had tried the practicability of ad- 
vancing. It was however ten o'clock before I 
could get the guide, and six men or bearers, to 
each of whom I was obliged to give two fathoms of 
baft and three strings of beads. I now found that 
Prince Schi (alias Simmons) had deserted, and 
taken with him four of the best men I had brought 
from Embomma, as porters; and just as I was set- 
ting off, the Chenoo and all his posse came to me, 
to let me know that my interpreter had violated 
their customs, and his own word, having bargained 
with two of the head gentlemen for their wives (one, 
the first time I was at Cooloo, and the other the 
night preceding), for two fathoms a night, which 
having no means of paying, he had concealed him- 
self, or ran off to Embomma. Though sufficiently 
irritated, I could not forbear smiling at their man- 
ner of relating the circumstance, as well as at their 
expectations, that I would either pay to the hus- 
bands the stipulated price, or permit them to seize 



203 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

Simmons, and sell him as a slave. In order to 
avoid either of these alternatives, I promised that, 
on my return, I would arrange the affair amicably ; 
with which, after a long palaver, which cost me 
some brandy, they were obliged to be satisfied. 

Having thus lost my interpreter, I was obliged 
to offer very high terms to the only person with me. 
who could supply his place ; a man whom we had 
picked up at Embomma, and employed as one of 
the boat's crew, but who, having been in England 
five years, spoke the language as well as Simmons, 
and his own much better ; I therefore at once pro- 
mised him the value of a slave and other etceteras 
on my return, if he would accompany me; to 
which he at last acceded, all his countrymen at- 
tempting to deter him, by the idea of being killed 
and eaten by the bushmen. 

We reached banza Manzy (about nine miles 
north of Cooloo), at noon, the whole road being 
along a plateau. Here I was obliged to give four 
fathoms of baft for a pig of 15lb. weight; and af- 
ter he was paid for, the people pretending they 
could not catch him, I was obliged to direct him to 
be shot. At four came to a very deep ravine {Sooloo 
envonzi)^ the bed of a vast torrent, covered with 
rocks, slate and quartz, in the hollows of which a 
considerable quantity of excellent water still re- 
mained, apparently since the rains. The sides of 
the ravine were thinly clothed with wood, among 
which were trees perfectly straight from 80 to 100 
feet high, and 18 inches diameter, the wood of 
which was nearly the density, and had much the 
appeeraiice, of oak; they were the only trees we 
had yet seen of any utility. 

In this ravine we halted for the night, on learn- 
ing that we could not reach Inga, and that there 
was no water between where we were and that 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 209 

-place. The country we passed over this daj 
would appear to be from 8 to 12 miles from the 
river, and is more hilly and barren than any we 
have yet gone over ; but the same structure on a 
larger scale, appears to prevail, as that of which 1 
have given a representation. 

Our night scene here, though entirely dissimilar 
from the preceding one, was perfectly theatrical ; 
the trees completely shading the ravine, and the 
reflection of the fires on the tent, and on the fo- 
liage, and on the rocks, with the mixture of black 
and white men, each cooking his supper, might have 
exercised the pen of Salvator Rosa, and would 
give no bad idea of (he rendezvous of a horde of 
banditti. 

In the morning we found we had pitched our 
tent over a nest of pismires; but although we 
were covered with them, not a person was bitten, 
any more than by the moschetoes, who, from its 
shade and humidity, had chosen this as their head- 
quarters. At daylight we were roused by the dis- 
cordant concert of a legion of monkeys and par- 
rots chattering, joined with that of a bird named 
by the natives booliloso^ (a crested Toucan) having 
a scream between the bray of an ass and the bleat 
of a lamb ; another, w ith a note resembling the 
cuckoo, but much hoarser; and another crying 
*• whip-poor-will" (a species of goatsucker). We 
also found that several buffaloes had been to drink 
at one of the holes in the rocks, about 200 yard? 
from one of our tents. 

Aug. 23. At seven o'clock (having given the 
people their usual breakfast of cocoa), we set out. 
and crossed a most difficult tract of hills and ra- 
vines until 11, when we found ourselves just at the 
angle of the river, formed by its returning to the ^ 
S. E.; this last reach not appearing: to be more 



210 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

than three or four miles., but entirely filled with 
rocks, and absolutely, as far as we could judge 
with our glasses, without the smallest passage or 
carrying place for a canoe. At noon we reached 
banza Inga, having turned off to the west consi- 
derably from the river, and found it situated on 
one of the usual plateaus. The Chenoo, we 
learned, was blind, and that the government was 
in a kind of commission, composed of the Macaya, 
Mambom, &c. which portended me no good ; a 
palaver being immediately assembled to know 
what white men came here for. I now found it 
would be necessary to deviate from my former as- 
sertions of having nothing to do with trade, if I 
meant to get forward ; and accordingly I gave these 
gentlemen to understand, that I was only the forerun- 
ner of other white men, who would bring them every 
thing they required, provided I should make a fa- 
vourable report of their conduct on my return to 
my own country. At length I was promised a 
guide to conduct me to the place where the river 
again became navigable for canoes, but on the ex- 
press condition that I should pay ajar of brandy, 
and dress four o-entlemen with two fathoms of baft 
each. These terms 1 complied with, stipulating 
on my part that the guide should be furnished im- 
mediately, (as this part of the river was said to be 
not above half a day's journey from Inga), and he 
was accordingly brought forward. Depending on 
these assurances, I proposed, as soon as the peo- 
ple should have dinecl, to set off, but was now in- 
formed that I could not have a guide till the morn- 
ing. Exasperated by this intolerable tergiversa- 
tion, being unable to buy a single fowl, and having 
but three days provisions, I remonstrated in the 
iiitrongest manner, and deviated a little fi'om my 
hitherto patient and conciliating manners, by tell- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 211 

ing them, that if they did not furnish a guide, 1 
should proceed in spite of them, ordering at the 
same time the ten men with me to fall in under 
arms ; at the sight of which the palaver broke up, 
and it was sauve out pent. The women and chil- 
dren, who had flocked to see white men for the 
first time, disappeared, and the banza became a 
desert ; on inquiring for the men who had como 
with me from Cooloo, I also found that they had 
vanished with their masters ; in short, I was left 
sole occupier of the banza. Finding that this 
would not at all facilitate my progress, I sent my 
interpreter with a conciliating message to the Ma- 
cay a, whose tenement was outside the banza, and 
which shortly produced the re-appearance of some 
men, but skulking behind the huts with their mus- 
kets. After an hour's delay, the regency again ap- 
peared, attended by about Mty men, of whom 
fourteen had muskets. The Mambom, or war 
minister first got up, and made a long speech, 
appealing every now and then to the other (com- 
mon) people who were seated, and who all an- 
swered by a kind of howl. During this speech 
he held in liis liand the war kissey, composed of^ 
bufialoe's hair, and dirty rags ; and which (as we 
afterwards understood) he occasionally invoked to 
break the locks, and wet the powder of our mus- 
kets. As I had no intention of carrying the affair 
to any extremity, I went from the place where I was 
seated, opposite to the palaver, and familiarly seat- 
ing myself alongside the Macaya, shook him by 
the hand, and explained, that though he might see 
I had the power to do him a great deal of harm, I 
had little to fear from his rusty :>iuskets : and that 
though I had great reason to be displeased with 
their conduct and breach of promise, I would pass 
it over, provided I was assured of having a guide 



212 CA.PTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

at daylight; which was promised, on condition 
that the gentlemen should receive eight fathoms 
of cloth. 

The people here had never before seen a white 
man, and the European commodities we saw w ere 
reduced to a little stone jug and some rags of cloth- 
ing. The language is a dialect of that of Embom- 
ma, but considerably differing. The Chenoo re- 
ceives his cap from the Benzy N'Congo, who re- 
sides ten days journey to the N. W. and not on 
the river. 

We purchased half a dozen of fowls, but were 
obliged to pay for water, at the rate of three beads 
for a canteen. There is here a good deal of lignum 
vitse, the largest seen about four inches in diameter. 

Aug. 24. Though the guide was promised at 
daylight, I found that the people of the banza wish- 
ed to throw every obstacle in the way of our pro- 
ceeding, assuring us, that the people further on 
would shoot us from the bushes, &;c. &:c. which 
produced the effect of making the men that had 
brought our things from Cooloo refuse to proceed 
any further. At length I was under the necessity 
of secretly promising one of the gentlemen a piece 
of baft for his good offices ; when he immediately 
offered himself as a guide, and five of his boys to 
carry our provisions. Leaving therefore every 
thing but these and our water, under the care of 
Cooloo men, we at last set off, at eleven o'clock. 
At the end of the banza we passed a blacksmith at 
work, fitting a hoe into a handle ; his bellows was 
composed of two skin bags, and his anvil a large 
stone. The progress seemed very slow, the iron 
never being brought to a red heat. Our route lay 
chiefly along the winding bottom ofa valley be- 
tween two ridges of hills ; the valley generally very 
fertile, but now without water, though furrowed by 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 213 

extremely deep beds of torrents. In the valley we 
found two towns, surrounded by plantations oF ma- 
nioc growing almost to the size of trees. A flock 
of 20 to 30 goats was a novel sight ; but the master 
being absent, we could not purchase one. The 
women sold us some manioc, and gave us a jar of 
water. At the upper end of the valley we found a 
complete banza of ant hills, placed with more re- 
gularity than the native banzas ; they were very 
large, and had the shape of a mushroom, but some- 
times with double and treble domes, the latter evi- 
dently intended to carry off the water in the rains. 
At four o'clock we reached the river at Mavoonda 
Boaya, where we found it still lined with rocks and 
vast heaps of sand, but free from all obstruction in 
the middle, from two to three hundred yards wide ; 
the current gentle (not above two miles an hour), 
and a strong counter current running up on the 
north shore ; its direction N. W. 

The Macaya of Mavoonda being told of our ar- 
rival, visited us in a few hours, and was very civil, 
and seemingly rejoiced to see white men; in re- 
turn for his civility and his palm wine, I gave him a 
cotton umbrella. The information received here, 
of the upward course of the river, was more dis- 
tinct than any we have yet had ; all the persons 
we spoke to agreeing that, after ten days in a canoe, 
we should come to a large sandy island, which 
makes two channels, one to the N. W. and the other 
to the N. E. ; that in the latter there is a fall, but 
that canoes are easily got above it ; that twenty 
days above the island, the river issues by many 
small streams from a great marsh or lake of mud. 

Having thus ascertained that the river again be- 
comes navigable at the distance of about 20 to 24 
miles above Yellala, I endeavoured to ascertain if 
I could procure canoes, and Avas assured I mi^ht 

17 



214 CAPTAIN tUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

purchase them at banza Mavoonda. During the 
night we had two smart showers of rain, which, as 
we were bivouacked in the open air, wetted us 
through. In the morning we returned to Inga, 
whence I have sent Lieut. Hawkey back to Cooloo, 
with 14 men of this place, to bring up the provi- 
sions and presents; intending immediately .to pro- 
cure two canoes and proceed up the river. Mr. 
Cranch being ill, takes this 6ccasion of returning to 
the Congo. 

The country declines considerably in proceed- 
ing to the north. 

Aug. 25. All the European articles procured 
from Embomma, which is the emporium of the Con- 
go empire, and might once be considered as the uni- 
versity for teaching the English language, and breed- 
ing up factors for the slave trade, are now brought 
thither by the Portuguese, and consist chiefly of the 
coarsest of English cottons, aqua ardente of Brazil, 
and iron bars. Beads are only taken in exchange 
for fowls, eggs, manioc and fruits, which seem all 
to belong to the women, the men never disposing 
of them without first consulting their wives, to whom 
the beads are given. The fashion varies from day 
to day, but the mock coral, and black and white, 
seem to be most constantly in request. 

Each village has a grand kissey or presiding di- 
vinity named Mevonga. It is the figure of a man, 
the body stuck with bits of iron, feathers, old rags, 
&;c. and resembles nothing so much as one of our 
scare-crows. Each house has its dii penates, male 
and female, who are invoked on all occasions. 

A slave from Ben's country, (Soondy) was this 
day brought for sale ; it appeared that he had been 
pledged for debt, and not being redeemed, was ac- 
cordingly to be sold. His information respecting 
his country, which appears to be that of Ben, and a 



CAPTAIN TUCKET'S NARRATIVE. 215 

large district, is, that it is a long way up the river; 
that he came down to Inga, sometimes by water, 
sometimes by land, and was in the whole 25 days 
on his journey ; but as he passed through the hands 
of a great many traders, and their days journey are 
very short, it is probable that it might be done in 
ten days. As Ben however had forgotten the name 
of his town, he could gain no information; and in- 
deed his knowledge of the language is so imper- 
fect that he has never been of the smallest use as 
an interpreter. 

Before marriage, the fathers or brothers of a girl 
prostitute her to every man that will pay two fa- 
thoms of cloth ; nor does this derogate in any way 
from her character, or prevent her being afterw ards 
married. The wives are how^ever never trafficked 
in this manner except to white men of considera- 
tion. 

The boys are taken from the mothers as soon as 
they can walk, and the father sits the whole day 
with them on a mat. The girls are entirely neg- 
lected by the father. 

Whenever any thing brings a number of people 
together, the men immediately light a fire and squat 
themselves round it in the smoke ; the men and 
boys together, the women remaining behind sepa- 
rate. 

The Jicus religiosa is planted in all the market 
places, and is considered here, as it is in the East, 
a sacred tree ; for our people having piled their 
muskets against one, and some of the points of the 
bayonets sticking into the bark, a great clamour 
was raised until they were removed. 

The hoc is their only instrument of husbandry, 
and is made out of a piece of flat bar iron beat out 
and stuck into a handle from one to two feet in 
length, as in the follow ing figures : 



216 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 




At Kincaya, in the valley of Bemba Macongo. 
we met with an Embomma slave merchant going 
into the interior for slaves. No information was to 
be got from him respecting the river, pretending 
that he had never been up it. It is evident these 
merchants do not wish Europeans to penetrate into 
the country, lest they should interfere with their 
business. Here the cicatrices or ornamental marks 
on the bodies of both men and women were much 
more raised than in the lower parts of the River, 
The women in particular had their chests and belly 
below the navel embossed in a manner that must 
have cost them infinite pain, the way of effecting it 
being to seize the skin between the fore-finger and 
thumb, and scarify it longitudinally with a sharp 
knife ; and when this is done so deep as to draw 
the blood, the juice of a plant is applied as a styp- 
tic, and the deeper the cut is, the more raised is 
the cicatrice. 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 217 

When tlic natives first saw the new moon, they 
hailed it as the precursor of the showers of rain 
which they expect soon after its close (that is to 
say, when the sun is on the equator) : they then be- 
gin to sow their Indian corn and ground nuts. The 
heavy rains do not set in for six weeks later. The 
river begins to rise a month before the rains, that 
is immediately after the season of showers has set 
in. I find it useless to attempt talking about busi- 
ness until the palaver is finished ; that is to say, un- 
til the palm wine they have brought, and the bran- 
dy they expect to receive, are all expended, by 
which time they are usually half drunk, and their 
inclination to palaver, to lie, to chicane, seems to 
increase in proportion to the quantity they may 
have swallowed. 

This morning [ received a visit from a Foomoo 
with a large calabash of palm wine, who, after 
sharing it out among his own people^ expected I 
would, in return of the compliment, give him a jar 
of brandy; but as his sole business seemed to be 
curiosity, and I had little brandy left, I did not 
choose to comply; and in order to prevent further 
solicitation, I told him I had none, with which, 
though much discontented, he was obliged to be 
satisfied. At noon I returned to Inga. 

August 26. While Lieutenant Hawkey was gone 
to Cooloo to bring up the luggage, 1 visited the ri- 
ver from Inga, being about a mile distant. The 
reach here runs east and west for three or four 
miles, and in that distance had three successiv^e 
falls, the highest Songa Yellala. On my return I 
found a present of four chickens from the blind 
Chenoo, with a request that I would give him four 
fathoms of baft in return ; but as I deemed half that 
quantity to be four times the value of his present. 
I Bent him two fathoms, which were soon after 



218 CAPTAIN TUCKEY^S NARRATIVE. 

brought back to me, with a violent complaint that- 
I had given four fathoms each to the Mambok and 
Macanga, and that the king expected the same ; as 
the former was however an exaction before I could 
procure guides, 1 did not think it necessary to com- 
ply with the Chenoo's demand, but taking back the 
two fathoms sent him nothing, and in a very short 
time another message came from him, requesting 
he might have the two fathoms, which I again deli- 
vered to be given to him. 

A gangam kissey passed through the banza, at- 
tended by his clerk or drum-beater, with all the 
instruments of his profession, viz. a big drum, a 
parcel of calabashes filled with small stones, a 
piece of tree, and a dozen stinking fetiches. We 
found that he had been sent for to a neighbouring 
village to discover the cause of a man's death. 

I this day visited the valley of Kincaya, where I 
was told a man had canoes to sell ; but he was 
gone into the country. The structure of the val- 
ley we found to consist of a vast mass of slate, the 
strata dipping 45^ to the S. W. The hills on each 
side were also composed of slate, with masses of 
quartz. Here I purchased some smoked fish. Here 
also I again met the Embomma slave trader. The 
manner of conducting the traffic in slaves, we found 
to be thus : The slave merchant quits Embomma 
with three men, each carrying a jar of brandy, and 
a piece of cloth ; on a bargain for a slave being 
concluded, a jar of brandy is then drunk, and a 
proportion of the cloth is given to the Chenoo and 
other great men as presents ; the seller then sends 
one of his own men back with the trader to receive 
the price of the slave at Embomma, or at any inter- 
mediate place that the feuds or other impediments 
to tranquillity may render expedient. 

August 27. This morning the gangam kissey re- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 219 

lunied, and we learnt that he had denounced three 
men of another village as the poisoners of the man 
that died, and that the accused were immediately 
to undergo the ordeal of chewing poisonous bark, 
which, if they were guilty, they would retain in the 
stomach, and thus it would occasion their death; 
but if innocent, they would vomit it up again im- 
mediately. On inquiry if the gangam did not some- 
times undergo the revenge of the persons thus 
falsely denounced, 1 was told that such a thing was 
unknown, for that the accused considered the kis- 
sey to be only to blame ; and that moreover the 
gangam could not bo hurt, the kissey always fore- 
warning him of danger. Even my interpreter, who 
had been baptised and lived five years in England, 
expressed his firm belief in these notions; which, 
by the w ay, are not more ridiculous than the au- 
gury of the Romans, or the inspirations and beatific 
visions of certain Christians. The gangams do not 
appear to be numerous, the one abovementioned 
having come from a considerable distance. Each 
gangam has usually a novice with him, whom he 
initiates into the mysteries of the profession, to 
which he succeeds on his death. The manner of 
initiation is kept, as may be supposed, a profound 
secret from the people. Their pay consists of the 
country money, of which this fellow had received 
a large bundle. 

The impediments to communication from the na- 
ture of the country, and the w ant of rivers, appear 
to be the great obstacles to the civilization of 
Africa. The abohtion of the slave trade, though it 
will produce little or no effect on the state of do- 
mestic slavery, (which is not incompatible witli a 
high degree of civilization,) must in the end tend 
greatly to improve Africa, by rendering the com- 
munication between different parts of the countr\ 



220 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

free from the danger of being kidnapped, which 
now represses all curiosity, or all desire of the 
people of one banza to go beyond the neighbour- 
ing one. Every man I have conversed with indeed 
acknowledges, that if white men did not come for 
slaves, the practice of kidnapping would no longer 
exist, and the wars, which nine times out of ten re- 
sult from the European slave trade, would be pro- 
portionally less frequent. The people at large most 
assuredly desire the cessation of a trade, in which, 
on the contrary, all the great men deriving a large 
portion of their revenue from the presents it pro- 
duces, as well as the slave merchants, who how- 
ever are not numerous, are interested in the con- 
tinuance. It is not however to be expected that 
the effects of the abolition will be immediately per- 
ceptible ; on the contrary, it will probably require 
more than one generation to become apparent : for 
effects, which have been the consequence of a prac- 
tice of three centuries, will certainly continue long 
after the cause is removed ; and in fact, if we mean 
to accelerate the progress of civilization, it can 
only be done by colonization, and certainly there 
could not be a better point to commence at than 
the banks of the Zaire. 



[ 221 ] 



CHAPTER VI. 

Excursion from Inga, and from thence to the Termination of 
the Journey. 

Lieutenant Hawkey having returned with a part 
of the presents for the chiefs, and provisions for 
the journey, I this morning (28th) determined to 
set out for Mavoonda to bargain for some canoes ; 
and was just on the point of departure, when the 
Macayo paid me a visit, and informed me, that if 
I purchased any canoes, I would find myself taken 
in, for that at a day's journey above Mavoonda the 
river was again obstructed by a fall named San- 
galla, over which I should not be able to get the 
canoes : this information at once throwing me again 
into as great uncertainty as ever, I determined, 
instead of going to purchase canoes, to visit this 
Sangalla without delay. It was however some time 
before I could procure a guide, when the old gen- 
tleman, who had led me to Mavoonda, again offer- 
ed himself for half a piece, whom I was forced to 
accept. As he assured me we should be back at 
night, I took only Mr. Galwey and four men, with 
a very short day's provisions, not wishing to open 
a fresh case of preserved meat (which is now our 
sole resource for the people). After passing 
through the valley of Bemba, we ascended the 
hills that line the river, and which are more fa- 
tiguing than any we had yet met with, being very 
steep, and totally composed of broken pieces of 
quartz, resembling a newly made limestone road. 
At four o'clock we came in sight of the river, be- 
tween the hills; and instead of getting back at 
night, I found it would be nearly dark before we 
could reach Sana^alla, and, as I expected, we only 

18 



222 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

reached it at sunset. Including the windings of 
tlie river, I suppose it about ten miles above Ma- 
voonda ; the intermediate reach running due north, 
studded with several islands, but the stream not 
very strong. At Sangalla the river is crossed by 
a great ledge of slate rocks, leaving only a passage 
close to the foot of the hill on the left bank about 
fifty yards wide, through which the stream runs at 
least eight miles an hour, forming whirlpools in the 
middle, whose vortices occupy at least half the 
breadth of tlie channel, and must be fatal to any 
canoe that should get into them. About two miles 
lower down the river the stream breaks quite across 
over a sunken ledge of rocks. Above, the river 
forms a wide expanse east and west, but filled with 
rocky islets ; the great breadth however reduces 
the velocity of the stream, so that canoes easily 
pass. About two miles above the commencement 
of the narrow channel there is a ferry. 

Having examined every thing here, and being 
told by our guide that there was a banza not much 
higher up, where we might get some victuals, I 
proceeded towards it, scrambling over the rocks 
with infinite fatigue for an hour, and then pene- 
trating through a close wood (the first we have 
seen) near it, until it became quite dark. This 
seemed to be the haunt of buffaloes, whose dung, 
fresh dropped, still smoked. At length about eight 
o'clock we reached the landing place ; and by the 
light of the moon proceeded over new hills to- 
w^ards the spot where our guide supposed the 
banza to be situated. 1 soon however discovered 
that he had lost his w^ay ; and seeing a fire on the 
side of a hill, and hearing human voices, I desired 
him to inquire ; but the people were afraid to come 
to us, and we could not find any path to s;et to 
them. After some time spent in hallooing, we un- 
derstood from them that the banza was deserted. 



CAPTAIN TUCKErS NARRATIVE. 223 

As we had neither victuals nor water, and nearly 
choked with thirst, it was necessary we should 
endeavour if possible to procure the latter ; and 
after an hour's walk one of the men came down 
from the hill, and conducted us through thick un- 
derwood, where we were almost obliged to crawl, 
and through grass twice our own height, to a spot 
(!lear of wood on the side of the hill ; and finding it 
useless to go any further, we made a fire to dry our 
cloaks, which were literally soaked with perspira- 
tion. A little water brought us by the wives of 
these bushmen, for they had no hut, was our sup- 
per, and the broken granite stones our bed. The 
water was a strong chalybeate. The night was 
however finc^ though cold, so that our bivouac, for 
want of our coats, which, on the expectation of be- 
ing back the same evening, we had not brought, 
was not over comfortable ; and at five o'clock in 
the morning of the 29th I quitted it to take a view 
of the river. One of the bushmen informed us, 
that after a short reach to the eastward it again 
ran to the south, and then turned back to the north, 
pointing out the hills and a banza, named Yonga, 
round which it turned ; and according to his ac- 
count, after two days journey in a canoe higher up, 
another Sangalla occurred, worse than the first. 
We also learnt that the banza, which we intended 
to have gone to the evening before, had been de- 
serted for some time ; the people, it seems, had 
robbed some slave merchants returning from Em- 
bomma with their goods, and fearing the conse- 
quences, had all taken to the bush. After a small 
portion of roasted manioc and a draught of water 
for breakfast, we proceeded on our return to Inga; 
and, having climbed a tremendous hill which hangs 
over the river, we came to three or four huts, where 
a woman had the conscience to ask ns a fathom 
of cloth for a small fowl. We had however the 



224 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

good fortune to procure a calabash of palth wine, 
a little further on, without which we should scarce- 
ly have been able to continue on our march : the 
sun, after nine o'clock, becoming extremely power- 
ful ; even with this, it was with the utmost difficulty 
I could prevail on the people to push on, the road 
being absolutely impracticable for a man with any 
burden ; and it was four o'clock before we reached 
Kincaya. Here 1 found the greatest difficulty in 
getting any thing to eat ; at last, however, we pro- 
cured an old hen and some manioc, which, stewed 
up together, gave us a scanty repast ; and after an 
hour's rest we set off for Inga, which we reached 
at seven o'clock, equally to our own satisfaction 
and that of our companions, who, expecting us 
back the first evening, had feared lest some acci- 
dent had befallen us. On both days we saw great 
numbers of deer of tv» o different species, one evi- 
dently an antelope ; the other a large animal of 
the deer kind, of which was a herd consisting of 
thirty or forty. They seemed not to be very shy^ 
but were too far off for our shots to take effect. 
In two ravines which we passed, we observed ra- 
ther more rapid streams. The country to the east- 
ward was low. 

This excursion convinced us of the total imprac- 
ticability of penetrating with any number of men 
by land, along the sides of the river, both from the 
nature of the country, and impossibility of procur- 
ing provisions. 

On the 30th, I sent Lieutenant Hawkey to Voon- 
da to endeavour to hire canoes, to enable us to go 
up to the first Sangalla, being determined to make 
an attempt by water, though with little hopes of 
success. 

Where there are neither written annals, legends, 
nor ancient national songs, nor chronology beyond 
a month, the history of a nation must be very 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 225 

vague and confined. The only idea I have been 
able to obtain of the Congoese history, is, that 
Congo once formed a mighty empire, the chief of 
which had three sons, between whom he divided 
his dominions at his death, giving to one the npper 
part of the river on both sides as far as Sangalla ; 
to a second, the left bank of the river (the Blandy 
N'Congo), and to the third, the right bank, Banzey 
NTonga. 

The Congo ese are evidently a mixed nation, 
having no national physiognomy, and many of them 
perf ectly south European in t heir fe atures^ This, 
one would naturally conjecture, arises from the 
Portuguese having mixed with them ; and yet there 
are very few Mulattoes among them. 

The creeping plants serve for cordage ; some of 
which are not less than six inches in diameter. 
Fleas and bugs swarm in all the huts. A great 
scarcity of wood fit for building prevails in this 
country. The stony hills about this part are thinly 
clad with scrubby trees, which are fit only for fuel; 
in many places they resemble an old apple orchard. 

The mornings are calm. The breeze sets in 
from the westward at noon, and is proportionably 
strong to the heat of the day, and when the sun has 
been very hot, continues strong during the night; 
the days and nights however are both very cloudy, 
so that it is impossible to get any observation even 
in three or four days. 

The hoop by which they ascend the palm trees 
is formed of a moist supple tw ig. 

The idea of civilizing Africa by the sending out 
a few Negroes educated in England, appears to be 
utterly^useless ; the little knowledge acquired by 
such persons having the same effect on the univer- 
sal ignorance and barbarism of their countrymen, 
that a drop of fresh water would have in the ocean. 



226 



CAPTAIN TUCKEYS NARRATIVE. 



The scarcity of food at this time is extreme. 
The sole subsistence of the people being manioc, 
either raw, roasted, or made into coongo, and of 
this they have by no means an abundance ; and a 
very few green plantains. A bitter root, which re- 
quires four days boiling to deprive it of its perni- 
cious qualities, is also much eaten. 

The indolence of the men is so great, that if a 
man gets a few beads of different colours, he stops 
at home (while his wife is in the field picking up 
wood, &c.), to string them, placing the different 
colours in every kind of way till they suit his fancy. 

They have songs on various subjects, love, war, 
palm wine, &c. 

They have no other arms except knives and a 
few muskets ; no shot, but small rounded stones : a 
piece of quartz makes a good flint. They take 
fish by poisoning them with a species of narcotic 
herb. They make good lines with grass. 

They amuse themselves with a game which is 
played on a piece of board, having twenty-eight 
circular hollows on its surface; but I could not 
learn the principles of the game. 



o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 








o 



— -L^ 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 227 

The palm wine is obtained by making an orifice 
a little above tlie insertion of the lowest branch or 
leaf, into which a tube is inserted for conducting 
the liquor into a calabash. These calabashes are 
extremely useful for all manner of household pur- 
poses, and are of all sizes ; the small ones are used 
lor holding their snuff, or dust of dried tobacco 
leaves, and are generally ornamented with figures, 
sometimes cut in high and sometimes in low relief 

The canoes are made far up in the country ; and 
it is said to occupy one man three months, in the 
making of one ; they are not however very dear. 

Aug. 31. Lieutenant Hawkey returned, having 
been unable to procure a single canoe ; indeed it 
did not appear that there is more than one or two, 
for crossing the river at Voonda. I sent some na- 
tives to Cooloo to bring up the remainder of the 
provisions, and with an order to Mr. Fitzmaurice to 
return to the Congo sloop with 15 of the men, be- 
ing unable to feed them at Cooloo. With the party 
thus reduced I am about to proceed to Bamba 
Yanzy, three days journey, where, according to all 
accounts, the river ceases to be obstructed witb 
rocks or cataracts. 

[From this time the Journal consists only of short notices ,• bvt the 
dates and progress are regularly inserted, and accompanied 
with a Sketch of the River, the direction, length, and undth of 
its several reaches, and strength of its current, as far as the 
extreme point to xvhich they proceeded.] 

Sept. I. Great astonishment of the people at 
seeing the pocket compass and the watch ; espe- 
cially the pocket compass always pointing to the 
same spot of the river. 

Their houses would be convenient if a little 
larger, and if raised from the ground on posts to 
keep out the fleas and bugs. 

It appears that the bark used in the ordeal is from 



228 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

a species of cassia; and the bitter root used as food 
is a kind of yam. Some Guinea fowls were killed, 
and some partridges of a verj large kind. Plenty 
of bees in the rainy season, when the numerous 
flowers are in blossom. The natives eat wild ho- 
ijnej whenever they find it, but are never at the 
^ trouble of searching for it; nor do they know the 
value of wax. Sweet-scented flowers smelling like 
the jasmine and jonquils. 

The end of the rainy season is unquestionably 
the best time for a botanist. 

This day for the first time observed that the ri- 
ver had begun to rise. 

The names of the seasons are as under. The 
;n dry season, or winter, is called Condy assivoo ; it is 
from April to September inclusive. 

The first rains are called Mallola mantitij ; they 
fall in light showers once or twice in 24 hours; 
commence the latter end of September, and con- 
tinue to the middle of October. At this time the 
women prepare the ground with the hoe for plant- 
ing Indian corn, beans, manioc, &c. 

The second rains are called Voolaza mansanzy ; ^ 
commence in November and end in January ; they 
are represented as being very heavy, attended with 
great heat, but with few tornados. They now plant 
Indian corn, &c. which ripens in three months. 

The third rains are named Voolaza chintomba, and 
continue during the months of February and March. 
The rain still very heavy, with violent tornados, 
and storms of thunder, lightning, fiery meteors, and 
wind. 

The species of doUclios^ named vojindo, is ripe 
enough for gathering in the month of October. The. 
bozea or sap/wo also ripens in October. The cht- 
chila (papaw) plantain. ■" "^ 

Macaya and Mambouk bought six fathoms of 
chintz and a bottle of brand v. 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 229 

Sept. 2. Mr. Galwey was to-day very ill ; sent 
Mr. Fitzmaurice orders to wait for him at Cooloo. 

At 8 o'clock, with much difficulty, got nine bear- 
ers for three fathoms each and three strings of 
beads. Set off with eight white men, Dr. Smith, 
Mr. Galwey, and three black men. No other road, 
it seems, but the horrible one we went before. At 
one P. M. reached a stream, the only one seen that 
was large enough to turn a mill ; there we dined. 
Pratt was knocked up, and obliged to be assisted 
forward by four men. 

I had some dilemma with the bearers, from the 
impatience of our people : the only way to manage 
them seems to be that of threatening to stop their 
pay ; no use in personal intimidation, as they know 
they can run off; nor in promises, for, like children, 
they are only afraid of being deprived of what they 
have in actual possession, or think themselves sure 
of 

At five P. M. passed a second brook, but the 
bearers telling us there was another further on, we 
continued our march till six. Pitched the tent, 
and sent the bearers for water ; but they returned 
with empty vessels, saying the brook was dried 
up ; and most provokingly seated themselves with 
the utmost indifference round the fire ; and though 
we had not a drop of water, they would not move 
until I put the above method in practice, when 
six of them went back to the brook we had left. 

Some showers of rain now fell. In the middle 
of the night we found ourselves attacked by a 
swarm of ants, which fairly beat us out of the 
tent, as we preferred the wet grass to the torment 
they occasioned. 

Sept. 3. Pratt being unable to proceed from his 
fever, I sent him back to Inga with two of the 

19 



230 CAPTA.IN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE/ 

bearers ; and at eight A. M. set oft* with the rest; 
the most horrible road, through narrow gullies not 
18 inches wide and six feet deep, which had been 
formed by the rains excavating the rocks. 

On the summit of one of the hills we met a ca- 
ravan of slave-traders going to Embomma, con- 
sisting of 30 men (eight with muskets,) the rest 
loaded with cassava and ground nuts, some of 
which they kindly gave us. One man and four boy 
slaves were from the Soonda country ; all said 
they were taken in the bushes. One of the boys 
made the most violent screams on seeing us ; even 
the children of seven or eight years old held fast 
by the hand of their owners, while we were pre^ 
sent. 

We dined at a brook, named Sooloo Loo An- 
zaza ; and at three P. M. arrived on the bank of 
the river, a little to the eastward of the upper 
Sangalla, which is formed by a ledge of rocks 
running quite across the river, part of it near the 
right bank being now dry, and the stream close t6 
the other side forming another and a larger Yel- 
lala, or cataract. The direction of the river is 
here N. E. ; and at the distance of about a mile 
above this Sangalla it greatly expands, forming an 
elbow, and running into a creek called Condo 
Yonga, and then it turns S. E. ; the current about 
three miles an hour, with a strong eddy on one 
side. Some rocks are still seen in the river, but 
the appearance is much less rugged than below, 
the land on each side being lower, though still hilly 
wd very barren, with no trees whatever. The 
formation also changes at this spot ; the pebbly 
quartz hills having almost entirely given way to 
clay and ferruginous earth ; and the rocks which 
line the river are now a perfect clay slate. 

The constant setting fire to the grass must pre- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATFVE. 231 

vent the growth of trees, and render them scrubby 
by destroying their leaves. 

Many hippopotami were visible close to our 
tents at Condo Yanga, where we were obliged to 
halt, and to wait some time for a canoe to pass. 
No use firing at these animals in the water ; the on i 
ly way is to wait till they come on shore to feed at 
night. During the night, they kept a continual 
grunting like so many hogs, but none of them came 
on shore, though we had a constant watch on the 
beach. 

This point of the river is the place of all others 
to set out from on an expedition to explore the 
course of the river ; the creek offering a very fine 
place for boats, and the strand being an excellent 
spot for an encampment. 

Sept. 4. After much difficulty we obtained two 
canoes to ferry us over the creek, for which ser- 
vice I paid four fathoms and six strings of beads. 
As soon as they were loaded the Inga men desired 
to go back, on pretence of being afraid to proceed ; 
but as they had engaged to go to Bamba Yonga, 
the fear of losing their wages at last induced them 
to pass over it. They had not however walked 
above a mile on the other side of the creek before 
they laid down their loads, and again refused to go 
on ; and in this manner they plagued me until 
noon, putting down their loads every ten minutes, 
walking back fidy or sixty yards as if to return, 
taking them up again, and so on, with a palaver of 
half an hour between each stoppage. Finding 
1 could get no good of them, I finally halted on the 
eminence that bounds the river, about eight miles 
above our last night's station, where I hope to pro- 
cure a couple of canoes to proceed up the river, 
as far as my means will permit. 

The river here expands to three miles in width ; 



232 CAPTAIN TUGKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

the banks have in some places low strips of soil 
and sand, with cliffs of clay slate, large masses of 
which are also scattered in the river, but do not 
in the least impede its navigation. In other parts 
low hills of gentle descent come down to the mar- 
gin of the river ; their summits clay, entirely bare 
of trees. Here we also found considerable masses 
of fine blue limestone; and a quantity of chalk was 
brought to us by one of the natives, which we were 
told was procured from hills on the opposite side 
of the river. 

The population is here more considerable than 
what we have seen lower down. The gentkmen^s 
towns forming a continued chain of buildings from 
the spot where we landed. Provisions seem to be 
also more plentiful. Several goats, pigs and fowls, 
w ith manioc, ground-nuts, and peas, having been 
brought to us for sale, as were also mats. 

Amongst the crowd that surrounded our tent, 
two or three of the foomoos or gentlemen only had 
any European clothes. The women were here the 
most horribly dirty looking wretches that can be 
conceived; equalling the New^ Hollanders in fiUh, 
and nothing superior to them except in the mere 
article of covering their nakedness. The huts 
were still of the same formation as below. The 
palm-trees were more abundant. Fish very plen- 
tiful, and of several species unknown, excepting 
that one was a small bream; they take them with 
pots, having neither nets, hooks, nor lines. 

The great increase in the number of Paria dogs 
denotes an increased stock of provisions ; though 
it would appear, from their being half-starved, like 
those of an Indian bazar, that they were not well 
fed : they never bark, but howl like a jackal ; they 
have pricked ears. 

vSept. 5. I discovered to-day that the Inga men 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 233 

were determined to stay here for my return, being, 
as they asserted, afraid to go back themselves. 

Finding it impossible to get canoes without the 
interference of the Chenoo of Yonga, I sent for- 
wards one of the black men (the guide of Inga,) 
with a piece of chintz, as a present to be divided 
among his great men. Having given to the inter- 
preter and to my other Embomma man a dress of 
chintz each, they amused us by performing So7iga^ 
which is a kind of war dance, and a hunting dance, 
a pantomime, and a love dance. In the war dance, 
the performer, with a sword, looks about from side 
to side as if expecting the enemy ; at last he sees 
them, flourishes his sword half a dozen times to- 
wards the quarter in which they are supposed to 
appear ; advances ; his eyes glowing fire ; returns 
triumphant; while the spectators are clapping their 
hands and striking their breasts in turns ; he then 
squatted down. 

The only presents made by Europeans concern- 
ed in the slave trade, were brandy, muskets, and 
powder, all promoters of civilization and encou- 
ragers of population. 

A foomoo waited on me with the present of a 
goat, for which I gave two fathoms of chintz and 
a necklace, and he promised to procure me two 
canoes at daylight the following morning. 

Dr. Smith made an excursion along the bank of 
the river to the northward, limestone and clay slate 
alternating. 

The women braid their hair, and in this state it 
looks well ; but when the braiding is undone, hor- 
ridly frightful, like a black mop. 

Alligators are so plentiful hereabouts, and so 
frequently carry off" the women, who at daylight 
go down to the river for water, that while they are 
filling their calabashes, one of the party is usually 



234 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

employed in throwing large stones into the river 
outside of them. Here I learn that they have two 
crops of Indian corn a year. 

Several instances have occurred which show the 
minute divisions of property : three or four people 
have usually a share in a goat ; and even a fowl is 
seldom without two owners. The division of the 
price usually creates a dispute, if there should hap- 
pen to be an odd bead. 

Sept. 6. After a constant battle with the na- 
tives from daylight, and after using every possible 
means, by threats, persuasions, and promises, I at 
last, about two o'clock, got the canoes, which I 
was to have had at daylight, under way, having 
first paid eight fathoms, and given a present of 
two fathoms of chintz each to four different gen- 
tlemen. 

As the canoes, though promised to carry twenty 
men each, would barely hold eight, I was obliged 
to walk along shore with a part of the people. About 
three miles from the place of departure we passed 
two small rapids, but the other side of the river 
was clear. 

We came to a bay in which were ten hippopo- 
tami ; as the canoes could not venture to come on 
until these huge creatures were dispersed, we were 
obliged to fire volleys at them from the shore, and 
although many shot evidently told, not one of the 
beasts seemed in the least to be affected by them. 
Thenoise, however, together with the exorcism of 
our old guide, drove them away. 

The river now, for the first time, bore a majestic 
appearance, having the land on each side mode- 
rately elevated, with little hills of limestone fur- 
ther back, but still almost without wood. 

At six P. M., after having rounded a rocky pe- 
ninsula, we anchored in a fine bay named Covin- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NAURATIVE. 235 

da, formed by this and another rocky peninsula a 
little higher up. The night presented a beau- 
tiful picture of repose ; fine scenery, the moon, 
the stillness of the water. Alligators most abun- 
dant. 

Sept. 7. The morning set in with light rain. 
Here we observed the river to have risen three 
inches in the night, the total or highest rise by the 
rocks sixteen inches. 

Some women brought us a large quantity of 
lime. Bought a goat for two and a half fathoms 
of chintz. The people very civil. Set off at 
eight A. M., rounded the marble peninsula, and 
opened out beautiful scenery, equal to any thing 
on the banks of the Thames ; the bare stone rock 
in many places resembled ruined castles over- 
hanging the river ; several fine grassy coves. Pur- 
chased a large bunch of plantains for li fathoms. 

The teeth of both men and women were notch- 
ed thus, T3RW- Saw a large flock of ducks, 
the precursors of rain. 

Many marble promontories now jutted out on 
this side, round some of which the current sets 
three miles and a half an hour. As it is necessary 
to take a long circuit round the bays by land, I 
hired another canoe where we stopped to dine at 
one o'clock, for four fathoms, to carry the rest of 
the people. We were however tired of this mode 
of conveyance, the inconvenience of sitting being 
hostile, besides the tedious rate, the paddles giv- 
ing three strokes, and then waiting until the canoe 
liad lost her way, so that they did not go two miles 
an hour, nor had our persuasions any eflTect in 
making them get on a bit faster. 

During our dinner a boxing match took place 
between two of the canoe men about a little salt, 
at which they both handled their fists with much 



236 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

science ; and after drubbing each ottier heartily, 
the others interfered, and the business being made 
up, both the combatants performed Songa. 

At four, reached one of the rocky promontories, 
round which the current set so strong, that the 
canoe men refused to attempt passing it, neither 
would they cross the river to get out of the cur- 
rent, pretending they were at war with the people 
on the other side. I was therefore under the ne- 
cessity of attempting to haul the canoes up the 
stream by the rocks with our own people ; and had 
succeeded in getting one of them past the obstruc- 
tion into still water, when, by the neglect of one of 
the men, the stern of the second canoe stuck fast 
in the rocks, and the current taking her on the 
broadside, broke her right in two, and several of 
the articles that were in her sunk, and others were 
swept away, among which were two swivels, my 
sword, a bundle of umbrellas, and all our cooking 
utensils, &;c. 

All was now confusion among the canoe men, 
who first ran off, and then, after a long delay, came 
back again, but nothing could induce them to go 
forward. I was therefore by this unlucky acci- 
dent obliged to bring back the canoe which I had 
got up past the rocks ; and to hire another to en- 
able us to cross the water; which I effected with- 
out any assistance from the canoe men, who could 
not be prevailed upon to touch a paddle ; though, 
when I landed on the opposite side, I found they 
were perfect friends with the people of this shore ; 
consequently the story of enemies was nothing 
more than a pretence of the canoe rascals to go no 
further. Here I paid them their wages, and we 
encamped in a beautiful grassy cove, from which 
both ends of the reach being shut in by land, pre- 



CAPTAIN TUCKBY'S NARRATIVE. 237 

sented the appearance of a mountain lake. During 
the night hippopotami were heard in great abun- 
dance. 

Sept. 8. In the morning the Zanzy canoe man 
would neither go up himself with his canoes, 
nor would he let the people of this side of the 
river hire me their canoes, until he was paid for 
the one that was broken, threatening them with 
war if they afforded me any assistance ; and as I 
had but little merchandise left, I wished to pay 
him on our return to Inga. I was however at 
length, after three hours palavering, obliged to 
give him a piece and two fathoms, with which he 
set off; but the canoe men of this side had now 
gone off, and after three hours more palavering 1 
at last procured six men to carry our baggage by 
land this day, and until to-morrow night, for which 
I paid them a piece of check and a bunch of beads. 
At length we set off at eleven o'clock, and at noon 
reached Masoondy, where the bearers lived, and 
where they laid down their loads, and set off to get 
their dinners ; nor could I assemble them again 
for two hours. We now passed over a very hilly 
country, with some fertile spots both on the sum- 
mits, on the sides, and in the valleys, but the general 
feature is still that of extreme barrenness, and a 
total want of trees, except in the ravines and round 
the great towns, which are here very numerous. 
The barren hills are composed of clay slate, lime- 
stone in difterent states, with some little quartz; 
red ochre hills. Half past three, we reached the 
river about ten miles from our last night's halting 
place; the reach running S.S.E. and ibrming a fine 
expanse or sheet of water from four to five miles in 
breadth, free from all rocks, and having a counter 
current on this side. The north shore rises gently 
from the river till it terminates in bare hills; it is 

20 



238 CAPTAIN TUCKfcY'S NARRATIVE. 

lined bj a fine sandy beach, behind which, and at 
the foot of the rise, is a line of trees. The south- 
ern shore is steep and rocky. 

Horrible face with the leprosy. 

Natives extremely abstemious, a little raw ma- 
nioc and water and their pipe, for a day : devour 
all the meat you will give them. 

The wind always from the westward, inclining 
up the reaches, so that there is always either a free 
or leading wind ; and yet the natives have not the 
least notion of applying sails to their canoes : in- 
deed the wars of neighbouring tribes render the 
water intercourse as limited as that by land. 

Size of their canoes. 

Their distribution of time consists of a week of 
four days, or a sona ; the first day of which is 
named Sona^ and on this day they refrain from 
working in the plantations, under the superstitious 
notion that the crop would fail ; they however per- 
form any other kind of work. The second day is 
named Candoo, the third Ocoonga^ and the fourth 
Cainga, The month, or Gonda, is thirty days ; the 
year, M^Voo^ consists of the rainy and dry season, 
that is to say, several Gondas, 

They believe in a good and evil principle, the 

former they call and the latter Codian Penba., 

both supposed to reside in the sky; the former, 
they say, sends them rain, and the latter withdraws 
it; however, they invoke their favour in the dry 
season, but it does not seem that they consider 
them as in any other manner influencing human 
affairs ; nor do they offer them any kind of wor- 
ship. Their ideas of a future state seem not to 
admit of any retribution for their conduct in this 
world ; good and bad going equally after death to 
the sky, where they enjoy a sort of Mahommedan 
paradise. 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 239 

Sept. 9. In the morning some rain. Set off at eight 
A. M. through a country more fertile, and having 
more land prepared for cultivation. The manner 
of preparing it is first by cutting down the long 
reedy grass, and placing it in small heaps, which 
are then covered with a layer of mould, and then set 
fire to ; in the little spots of ashes thus formed, the 
Indian corn and peas are planted, and the manioc 
in the unmanured places between them; these 
ashes are the only kind of manure made use of. — 
They never burn down the long reedy grass until it 
has shed its seed, su that the next rains bring a 

stronger crop than before. very soon 

blossomed, as well as the long reed grass twelve 
feet high, and the thorny sensitive plant. 

Passed some fine limestone springs, the first we 
had seen. 

At ten, reached the gentleman's town of Vooky 
filou, where our bearers had a long palaver for 
palm wine, which I was obliged to purchase at a 
high rate before they would stir a step further. — 
Unfortunately I happened to spill some of it at the 
foot of our gentleman guide, on which he set off in 
the most violent rage, taking all his men along w ith 
him ; and I now learned that, next to pointing a 
musket, the spilling of palm wine was the grossest 
insult that could be offered to a ger\,tleman. It was 
full two hours, and after making an ample apology 
for my accidental impoliteness, and a present of 
three bunches of beads, that he deigned to shake 
hands with me, and call his men back. 

The houses here are larger than below. 

Two gentlemen with heavy iron chains and rings 
on their legs and necks. 

At two P.M. we reached the head of a deep reach 
named Soondy N'Sanga, running W. by N. and E. 
by S. ; here we stopped to dine. After dinner 1 



240 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

wished to proceed, but our bearers refused, assert- 
ing that the J had already walked two days. 

Finding all persuasions useless, I was obliged to 
pitch the tent at this place, and with Dr. Smith and 
Lieutenant Hawkey walked to the summit of a 
hill, where we perceived the river winding again 
to the S. E., but our view did not extend above 
three miles of the reach : the water clear of rocks, 
and, according to the information of all the people, 
there is no impediment whatever, as far as they 
know, above this place. 

And here we were under the necessity of turning 
our back on the river, which we did with great re- 
gret, but with the consciousness of having done all 
that we possibly could. 

On my return to the tent, I found that the bear- 
ers said they would not carry back the luggage un- 
less they got another piece; and I was at last 
obliged to give to each of the two head men two 
fathoms of chintz and beads. 

Plenty of bees : the natives eat the wild honey 
when it comes in their way. 

The rise of the river was marked at 3to inches. 

The natives appear to be less civilized as we go 
on, totally ignorant of the relative value of Euro- 
pean goods ; exorbitant in their demands. 

Employed Peter to buy palm wine and fowls with 
the beads which I gave him. 

Sept. 10. At eight A. M. set out on our return; 
our stock, two pieces of baft, two pieces of chintz, 
a few beads ; no brandy, no sugar, nor any thing 
else. 

Dawson taken ill, and reaching the top of the 
iirst hill, was obliged to be carried ; got a canoe 
for him for four fathoms; and put all the baggage 
into her, though so small; another palaver about 
sharing the fathoms ; at last, after three hours wait- 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 241 

Ing in a burning heat on the beach, (therm. 86**) 
we got the canoe off with one man besides Dawson. 

Set off' ourselves to return by land to 

Went a different road from that we came, through 
the ravines of barren hills ; lost three hours over 
the only fine place we have seen for an European 
town, being a plateau of ten miles in extent, de- 
scending gradually into a plain of double that size, 
all fertile. Pine apple plants growing close to the 
path ; which descends gently through a small grove 

to the river side, at , which we reached at 

, and found the canoe but just arrived, 

having been nearly swamped by her smallness. — 
Here we were therefore obliged to change her for 
a larger. The gentleman guide was in a great pas- 
sion at HaAvkey for touching his kissey, and also at 
our people for carrying the fowls with their heads 
downwards. Gave one umbrella for six fowls, and 
another for a small goat. 

Inhospitality of the fellow with palm wdne: 
obliged to give my handkerchief, baft, beads, &c. 
Tantalizing state with the palm wine, and not al- 
lowed to touch it for half an hour. 

Sept. 11. In the morning got two canoes for 
six fathoms to go down to Yanza, where we had left 
the Ingamen. Halfway down we found one of the 
hippopotami dead, lying on a bank, in a putrid 
state. The people of this part of the river have 
been fetiched from eating it. At Embomma a good 
hippopotamus is worth a - - - -; its flesh is sold in 
the markets. 

Here our boatmen wanted to stop, pretending 
they were unacquainted with the river below. I 
punished them by carrying them six miles lower 
down. 

The rapids we had before been obliged to haul the 
canoes over were now smooth, the river rising about 



242 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S N7VRRATIVE. 

six inches a day. The velocity must be greatly 
increased in the rainy season, but still the canoes 
are said to work on it. Total rise as marked by 
the rocks eleven feet. The clouds charged, and 
the barometer faUing ; temperature of the river de- 
creasing; atCondoYango it was 77°, and now but 
74°; the limestone springs 73°. 

At one, stopped to procure men to carry our 
things to Inga, the Inga men having returned thither 
without waiting for us. 

Sept. 12. With great difficulty got a foomoo 
and four of his boys to go down for two fathoms 
each, paid beforehand, and a canoe to ferry us 
across the creek to Condo Yango. A long palaver 
about a pig detained us till nine o'clock. Disco- 
vered that the barometer was stolen. Purchased 
ten fowls for empty bottles. Found the river so 
greatly risen that the creeks we had crossed in our 
way upwards, were now filled, and we were 
obliged to go high up and cross them on fallen 
trees. 

At noon we dined at the brook Sooloo Looanzaza, 
and at three encamped at Cainga to wait for Daw- 
£»on, who was obliged to be supported by two men. 
I now found that besides the barometer we had lost 
our silver spoons, great coat, remnant of cloth, &c. 
In the night we were driven out of the tent by ants. 

Sept, 13. This morning we found that our bearers 
had gone off during the night, and left us in the 
lurch. Got a foomoo and four men of Cainga to go 
on, for two fathoms each; ascended the Mango 
Enzooma hill, the highest yet passed, covered with 
fern; and the transition from it between the mica 
and clay slate. 

At eleven reached the brook Looloo : at three 
got to Keilinga, where we could procure nothing by 
purchase. Here Ave found the Mafook of Inga, who 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 2d 3 

informed us that a goat which we were carrying 
was fetiched at Inga, and that we must not carry it 
there on any account, dead or alive, or even a bit 
of its skin ; we therefore exchanged it for two fowls, 
which we left for Dawson's use, and pushed on. 

At five we arrived at Inga, where the Inga men 
had reported that one half of us had been drowned 
in canoes, and the rest killed by black bushmen. 
Greeted with Izacalla moudela by the people, but 
greatly shocked on learning the deaths and sick- 
ness on board the Congo. 

Sept. 14. Sent off Mr. Hawkey with ten men 
and as many loads of baggage : though ill myself, 
I intended to proceed ; but Dr. Smith and two of 
our people are too ill to be moved ; remained 
therefore this day, and passed it most miserably. 

After dark, the corporal of marines arrived with 
intelligence of Galwey's death. I passed a mise- 
rable and sleepless night, and at daylight mustered 
the boys with the intention of proceeding; but 
after paying them two fathoms each, the usual 
price, tliey refused to go without receiving three. 
Gave them three ; being very weak myself and 
v.ishing to get on before the sun became too hot, I 
set off with Dr. Smith, leaving Mr. Hawkey behind 
to bring on the people ; at noon he joined me, and 
from him I learnt that he had a terrible business to 
get the people off 

Four of the bearers of the sick men ran away 
and carried off a canteen of brandy and a case of 
preserved meat : a squabble for salt. Could not 
get a single fowl for eight bunches of beads. Ter- 
rible march ; worse to us than the retreat from 
Moscow. 

Arrived at Cooloo at five P. M. Hospitality of 
these people. Got a goat from the Chenoo, fowls 



244 CAPTAIN TtrCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

and eggs ; all ran cheerfully to assist us ; brought 
us grass for our beds ; water; wood for our fire. 

At dark Dawson arrived ; Inga men left him on 
the return of the people. Butler did not come in. 
Passed a good night ; it rained hard, but the tent 
kept it out. 

Sept. 15. At daylight sent two men to wait for 
Butler. Dr. Smith very ill ; Dawson better. 

Having arranged every thing for the men, I set 
off at eight, A. M. leaving Mr. Hawkey to bring 
up the sick. Reached the river at eleven. Thank 
God for his great mercies in bringing me on thus 
far! 

Found no canoes ; waited till two o'clock, when 
I learnt that the Chenoo of Bibbi, in whose district 
the landing-place is, had forbidden his people to 
furnish any more canoes ; according to some, on 
account of the commanding officer on board the 
Congo having ill treated one of the canoe men, 
who went down with the sick ; while others said it 
was because he was not paid his customs for using 
his landing-place; and 1 was told I must send my 
interpreter to him with a present before any canoes 
would be given. As I knew this would occupy the 
whole of the next day in palavering, and as Dr. 
Smith, Dawson, and Butler, were so very ill, that 
an hour's delay in reaching the ship might prove 
fatal, I seized all the canoes, and a foomoo. 

Sept. 16. Unable at daylight to procure any 
canoe men, I set off with our own people, and at 
three P. M. reached the Congo. 

Terrible report of the state on board : cof- 
fins. 

Sept. 17. At daylight sent off all the sick in 
double boats, as well as the people who had been 
up with me, to the transport ; hired fifteen, black 
men to assist in taking the Congo down the river 



CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 245 

below Fetish rocks. The river bordered by a 
level plain, four miles deep, to hills of little eleva- 
tion. Good place for a settlement. 

Mangroves commence at the east end of Tall 
Trees island. 

Muddiness of water and red colour begins at 
the land, which latter is a bar of sand co- 
vered with clay, and under water when the river 
is at its height. 

Extraordinary quiet rise of the river shows it, I 
think, to issue chiefly from some lake, which had 
received almost the whole of its water from the 
north of the line. 

Commencement of its rise was first observed 
above Yellala, on the 1st of September; on the 
17th of September, at Tall Trees it had risen seven 
feet, but the velocity was not at all increased. 

Hypothesis confirmed. The water 

Mistaken idea of anchoring ships out of the cur- 
rent for any length of time ; the current always 
creating a current of air. 

Palm wine in the dry season only. Palm trees, 
when two years old, begin to give out wine. 

Sept. 18. Reached the transport; found her 
people all in health; her decks crowded with 
goats, fowls, pigeons, pumpions, plantains, flaskets 
of palm wine ; in short, the greatest appearance 
of abundance. 

The difference of atmosphere perceptible be- 
tween this place and Embomma. Fresh sea 
breezes. 

Mangrove trees fit for ? 

No fish but cat-fish. Few hippopotami below 
Vellala. 

Quartz sand in vast quantities on the banks of 
the river ; must come from a great distance. 

Mancava child, child-birth. 

2] 



\ 



246 CAPTAIN TU€KEY»S NARRATIVE. 

Different foods fetiched. Children fetiched for 
eating the food which their fathers had been for- 
bidden to eat. Women fetiched for eating meat 
the same day that it is killed — with the men. 
When a man applies to a Gangam for a domestic 
fetish, he is ^t the same time instructed from what 
foods he must abstain; some from fowls, others 
from plantains. 

Lindy N'Congo resides at banza Congo, far in- 
land to the south. 

In war the Chenoo of J^jnbomma musters 1000 
muskets ; fire into the enemies houses at night. Cut 
off the heads of the prisoners and burn the bodies. 
All the women sent away before a war is begun. 
Some Foomoo makes up the business, and each 
party keeps the trophies, and puts up with the 
losses. All the men of a Chenooship obliged to go 
to war. Commanded by the Mecaya, next brother 
to the Chenoo, and civil magistrate ; Mambouk, 
relative of the Chenoo, war minister. 

Chenoo of Inga dead, blind man substituted. 

Dress. OH men, long thin aprons ; young men, 
cat-skins ; tiger cat most valuable ; each costs a 
piece ; common cat-skins at Embomma for six 
fathoms. 

Canoes made of cambafuma (bombax.) 

Spoons, and mouth pieces of pipes made oileman- 
zao^ SLiid pacabanda. 

Flocks of flamingos going to the south denote the 
approach of the rains^ 



THE ENJD. 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 



[ 249 ] 
SECTION I. 

Notices from England to our departure from St. Jago. 

On the 22d of February, I set out from Charing- 
cross for Sheerness, to which port the vessels be- 
longing to the expedition had proceeded some days 
ago. Paul Hafgaard, with several others, accom- 
panied me till I got into the coach. People who 
were nearly strangers to me, here bade me farewell 
with tears in their eyes, and looks that expressed 
their doubt of seeing me any more. Von Buch ac- 
companied me as far as Sheerness. It was for the 
first time I saw this part of the Thames. Its beau- 
tiful windings, and the varying scenery on and 
round its waters, afforded us great pleasure. The 
view from Shooters hill is of an immense extent. 
At Rochester, the Medway displays its greatest 
beauty. During our whole journey, those hills of 
Kent, which terminate in the chalk hills of Dover, 
were seen by us. On the other side of Rochester 
the country becomes more level, barren, and uni- 
form. Orchards of cherry trees, for which this 
county is celebrated, were seen on all sides in 
great number. The rich but distant treasures I 
was going to enjoy occupied my thoughts. 

On the 23d, in the morning, 1 took leave of Von 
Buch, and went on board. I had been expected 
for some days. Captain Tuckey came onboard a 
few hours afterwards ; on the 25th we weighed an- 
chor. An unsteady wind carried us to the Downs, 
where we anchored, and remained there the 26th 
and 27th. On the 28th we passed through the 
Downs, and round Beachy Head. On the 29lh we 



250 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

were cruising with variable winds. The S. W, 
wind at last prevailing, we were obliged, on the 
2d of March, to anchor in the harbour of Plymouth, 
on the identical spot where Napoleon Bonaparte 
had been in the Northumberland. Here we re- 
mained to the 6th. On the 3d, Galwey, Tudor, 
and myself went on shore to see the beautiful 
country-seat of Lord Mount Edgecombe, The 
prospect from the highest hill has greater variety, 
and is more beautiful, than any I had seen in Eng- 
land. The great number of limestone-cliflfs pro- 
jecting in groupes into the sea; the numerous bays ; 
the two rivers that empty themselves into the har- 
bour ; the three different towns of Plymouth, Stone- 
house, and Dock ; the great number of ships of 
commerce and of war; the hills of Mount Edge- 
combe covered with wood, — and all this, compre- 
hended in one view, forms a most striking, lively, 
and picturesque landscape. The immense Break- 
water, which is constructing across the harbour, is 
now nearly finished. 

On the 5th, Lieutenant Hawkey accompanied us 
again on shore to see the men of war in the harbour. 
We went on board the three-decker St. Vincent, 
which had lately left the dock-yard, and is consi- 
dered as the most perfect vessel that ever was built. 
She carries 128 guns. Such an immense machine, 
for the first time seen floating on the water, makes 
a striking impression. The cabins are as large as 
ball-rooms, with galleries as spacious as balconies. 
The construction of the pump-works* (qu. chain- 
pump ?), and of the powder-room is remarkable, 
I was refused entrance into the dock-yards as being 
a foreigner, though in the English service. In the 
house of Lieutenant Taylor I waited patiently for 
the return of the other gentlemen, and amused my- 
self in the meantime with reading the travels of 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 251 

Bruce. We passed through Stonehouse town, 
where they are breaking down a rock of limestone 
in order to level the ground for the convenience of 
the increasing towns in the vicinity of Plymouth. 
We visited the castle, &c. On returning, we dined 
in Stonehouse. I was somewhat tempted to remain 
on shore during the night, but gave it up, and re- 
turned on board late in the evening. On the 5th 
we put to sea again, and the wind proving contrary, 
we anchored in the evening of the 6th in the har- 
bour of Falmouth. The 7th, all went on shore. 
Tudor and myself hired horses with the intention to 
travel about in the country, to see mines, Sic. Passing 
through Penryn we arrived in Truro, w^hich is one 
of the mining towns in Cornwall. On the way we 
saw a furnace for melting tin, the construction of 

which was very simple without bellows. 

I dined in company with two Dutch ordnance offi- 
cers, who had made all the campaigns of Napoleon, 
and having been at last taken prisoners at Beresina, 
had been sent to Archangel, where they were de- 
tained a year and a half They were now ordered 
out to Batavia in a rotten frigate, which is here re- 
pairing. 

From Truro we proceeded to the mines in its 
neighbourhood, by the way of Sherwater. I de- 
scended one of the copper-mines to the depth of 
about 56 fathoms. The shafts, as also the adits are 
very narrow. Only a few men were at work in each 
of them, making constantly use of the pick-axe. The 
steam engines are in high perfection, and indispen- 
sable on account of the vast quantity of water in 
the mine. These engines have therefore been con- 
structed in several places. The appearance of 
the country is that of a vast heath. The formation 
seems to be principally mica and clay-slate, with 
large veins of quartz, in which the ores of tin and 



252 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

copper occur between and at the side of each 
other. Long ranges of stones heaped upon one 
another are to be seen. The friends of Tudor in 
Truro detained us till late in the evening. 

On the 8th, in the evening, we made an excur- 
sion to St. Maws, situated in the neighbourhood. 
It is an inconsiderable fishing- town ; but it is pro- 
bable, that, before the growing importance of Fal- 
mouth, it was a considerable borough, because it 
has the right of sending two members to Parliament, 
who however at present may be said to be chosen 
by the Marquis of Buckingham. The manners of 
the inhabitants seemed to indicate that the spot is 
not much frequented. 

March 9. The wind veering towards N. W. we 
weighed anchor with hopes that the S. W. wind has 
now left us. 

March 10. We are off Sicily. The wind 
changed again to S. W. We made the signal in 
vain for pilots, they having already returned to 
Falmouth. In the morning of the 12th we an- 
chored, for the second time, between Pendennis 
and St. Maws. 

March 19. All this time we have been detained 
in the harbour of Falmouth, partly from the stormy 
weather, and partly in order to take in water 
and provisions, and to fit the Congo with new rig- 
ging. We weighed anchor in the morning. I have 
written twice to Von Buch and to Hafgaard, to 
whom I have given a commission to send all my let- 
ters to St. Helena. A strong gale from N. E. has 
to-day (the 20th) carried us to the 49° 17' latitude, 
and 60" longitude. The weather is now almost 
calm. The Congo sails almost as well as the trans- 
port. 

March 25. For the first five days we have 
been favoured by a steady N. E. wind, which has 
carried us to the latitude of Cape Finisterre, 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 253 

April 1. The Avind liaving been very favour- 
able, brought us yesterday withni sight of Ma- 
deira, which we passed on its eastern side ; and to- 
day I expect to see once more my old friends Pal- 
ma, and the Peak of Tenerifle. The weather, as 
is usual in the vicinity of these islands, has conti- 
nued for some days very squally. Unfortunately 
we are to pass, as it would seem, the Canaries, 
without stopping before we arrive at St. Jago. 
Being again so near to a place, where the last 
year I enjoyed so many delightful hours, which I 
never must forget, they were now as forcibly re- 
called to my memory as when present, but with a 
feeling of regret that they never more can be re- 
newed. I had reckoned for certain on being able 
to fill up several deficiencies in the observations 
that have been made on these islands. For the 
last few days we have seen but little that could 
be considered as remarkable on the ocean. A 
number of porpoises tumbling about the vessel ; 
two large birds, the species of which, at the dis- 
tance we observed them yesterday, couJd not be 
determined ; some Medusae, probably Medusa pd- 
lucida^ but of which we have not been able to catch 
any, were all of the animal creation we got siglit 
of On board the Congo I saw a small whale, also 
a small turtle covered with two or three species of 
Lepas^ which we dissected, and a small species of 
Cancer, probably the Cancer fulgens of Sir Joseph 
Banks. 

On the 3d, at daybreak, the majestic ridge of 
rock that skirts the shores of Palma was discover- 
ed. We passed its western side, at a distance of 
from two to three leagues from Punte-de-fuen-za- 
biente. The two highest summits, particularly 
that of Roclie de la Mustachos, were covered with 
snow, and irradiated by the refiected beams of the 

" 22 



254 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

sun a glittering light from the upper region of the 
air. In the course of the afternoon we came in 
sight of Tino, though it was enveloped in a dense 
foggj air. I considered its greatest height to be 
a little more than 4000 feet. We had not the plea- 
sure of seeing the Peak of Teneriffe again. The 
weather is now very agreeable ; the temperature 
between 15° and 20° of Reaumur. We have a fa- 
vourable wind, which, however, has not yet 
changed to the tropical or trade wind, but is more 
inclined to the N. E. The night wa& starlight. 
Galwey and myself amused ourselves by studying 
the constellations, of which the northern ones will 
soon leave us. The sea begins to exhibit a greater 
abundance of animals. Cranch is at length pre- 
paring to fish up whatever he can catch. In the 
last few days we have constantly seen and caught a 
great number of Portuguese men-of-war (^Holothii- 
ria physalis) ; also a small eatable Velilla (which I 
sketched) ; a Salpa ; which emits light, and a Me- 
dusci^ with four tentacula. On board the Congo I 
saw a Loligo vulgaris^ and a fragment of a small 
JYautilus^ covered by a species of Lepas, 

The Congo has for some days been sailing at a 
slow rate, and is now again taken in tow. Cranch, 
1 fear, by his absurd conduct, will diminish the li- 
berality of the Captain towards us. He is like a 
pointed arrow to the company. 

April 5, To-day the deep azure colour of the water 
has suddenly changed into a dark sea-green colour. 
Last night we crossed the Tropic of Cancer. The 
latitude to-day at noon is 22^ 

April 7. The water of the sea has again re- 
sumed its usual colour. The anomalous tempera- 
ture of the sea, its green colour, and the great 
number of MoUusca that were seen, seemed to in- 
dicate that we were in soundings, but a line of one> 
hundred fathoms was tried without success. 



PROFESSOR SiMITH'S JOURNAL. 205 

April 8. We got in sight of the island of Bo- 
navista, and passed its S. E. side at the distance of 
.... leagues. Its appearance resembled that of 
the eastern Canaries. Its height can scarcely be 
greater than theirs, but none of its higher hills had 
a volcani.c form. 

April 9. In tlie morning we were under the 
island of Mayo, which appeared to be lower than 
Bonavista ; and soon after we got sight of St. Jago. 
It is only a few days since the Captain informed us 
that we were to touch at Porto Praya, though we 
had reason to suppose this to be the plan long ago. 
All eyes were therefore with double eagerness bent 
towards the island as we approached it. After 
having for so long time seen nothing but the heaven 
and the ocean, even the barren rocks, which were 
the first objects that met our scrutinizing eyes, con- 
veyed an agreeable impression : though, in looking 
through the telescope, it was with difficulty I could 
discover the least vegetation, and scarcely expect- 
ed on these rocks a richer harvest than in the de- 
serts of Lonzocolo last year. This island appear- 
ed much higher than either of the two we had just 
passed. In its general formation it resembles the 
Canaries. It is surrounded by a perpendiculal- wall 
of rock without any strand, and it rises gradually 
up to the summit of the hills. The highest moun- 
tain is about the middle of the island. Its shape is 
that of an oblique cone, the top of which rears its 
head above the clouds, appearing at a distance 
like a black spot. The harbour soon opened out 
between the rocks, in the form of an half circle.— 
On both sides batteries have been erected, but 
merely lor the sake of appearance. Guns without 
carriages, negro soldiers having muskets without 
locks, and the barrels tied to the stocks with twine, 
constitute the defence of the harbour. At the bot- 



256 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

torn of this circular inlet is situated the principal 
seaport town of the island, which is nearly in the 
same condition as the batteries. It is built on a 
fiat rock, with the third and principal battery in 
front of it, surrounded by a continuation of the val- 
ley la Trinidad, which on each side of, the town 
forms a level plain, overgrown with groupes of the 
date-palm ; and terminating in a sandy beach. A 
rock situated towards the w^estern battery, forms 
the west side of the entrance. In the harbour were 
two vessels, one of which having English colours, 
made us hope for a conveyance of letters to Eng- 
land ; but we were afterwards informed that this 
vessel was to be very much delayed in its passage, 
being previously destined to touch at Lisbon. At 
12 o'clock the anchor was dropt, and we were im- 
mediately ready to go on shore. It had been sig- 
nified to us, that the expedition would have to re- 
main here two days only ; we were therefore anx- 
ious to make the best use we could of our limited 
time. Most of the officers, Tudor, the gardener and 
myself, went on shore. Our plan was to ramble 
about in the neighbourhood the whole of the after- 
noon, afterwards to join Fitzmaurice, Galwey and 
Cranch, Avho had set out on a fishing party in a 
small bay situated to the eastward ; then to return 
with them on board; and, before daybreak the 
next morning, to make an excursion to the higher 
mountains of the island, and not to return till the 
last moment of our allotted time. Unfortunately, 
in consequence of this plan, we had not provided 
ourselves with more apparatus than would be ne- 
cessary for an excursion of a few hours only. Cap- 
tain Tuckey and the rest waited upon the Gover- 
nor. Lockhart and myself soon found of course 
objects enough to attract our attention; and we 
began to form a more favourable idea of the vege- 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 257 

tation of the island, than its first appearance from 
the vessel seemed to promise. The shore was co- 
vered with Convolvolus soldanella^ resembUng j^OT/wca; 
and half a dozen unknown plants, which were suc- 
cessively found growing among the palms, made us 
soon regret, in our joy, that we had so short a time 
to stay here. We took a view of the structure of 
the rocks, which on this side the town form a per- 
pendicular precipice, and every where along the 
coast consist of five or six strata in the following or- 
der. 1st. Conglom.erate. 2d. Tufa of pumice- 
stone, .'^d. Pumice-stone. 4th. A stratum consist- 
ing of an uniform and somewhat blistered sub- 
stance. r>th. Basalt. 6th. The uppermost stratum, 
which is similar to the 4th, and by its concentric 
formation, globules, &;c. made it evident that it had 
been in a lluid state. It resembled the same cor- 
responding stratum in the Canaries. We went 
into the town, which consists of a few rows of mise- 
rable huts, situated on a flat rock, about an English 
mile in circumference, and surrounded by the lower 
part of the valley of Trinidad. Most of the inhabi- 
tants here, as indeed on the whole island, are ne- 
groes. Although we discovered nothing but naked 
rocks and withered fields, wherever we turned our 
eyes, yet many different sorts of fruit, poidtry, &c. 
were offered to our view, which proves, that the 
interior of the country must have a different appear- 
ance. We descended and crossed the other val- 
ley of palms, travelling over level and scorched 
plains, in order to join our comrades of the fishing 
party. The niglit was fast approaching. We made 
signaK in vain for a boat from the east battery, un- 
der which the ships were lying at anchor. We ran 
back to the town and down to the other place of 
landi.'ig, lioping to find them there, but were now 
informed, to our great astonishment, that the boat. 



258 PROFESSOR SMFTH'S JOURNAL. 

which had brought us on shore, had been upset in 
the surf when going out again, with all the officers. 
Captain Tuckey succeeded in reaching the shore 
by swimming, and escaped with the loss of his 
sword. Lieut. Hawkey's foot was entangled in a 
rope, and he was with much difficulty and almost 
lifeless brought on shore by Captain Tuckey and a 
negro. The fat purser wisely saved himself on the 
bottom of the boat. Thus they all got pretty well 
offj but their fright had made them forget us en- 
tirely. We were therefore once more obliged to 
r-eturn to the town, and take up our lodgings at a 
kind of public house, kept by a fat negro woman^ 
)to whom we left the care of providing for our dinner, 
lof washing our linen, &;c. We were better accom- 
modated than we expected. Before daybreak we 
were upon the alert, looking out for the landing of 
the gentlemen from the ship, with instruments, 
books, &;c. for our excursion to the interior of the 
island. We waited impatiently till 10 o'clock, but 
were disappointed. In the meanwhile we took a 
walk round the town, and descended into the plain 
to the east side. Here are several wells, one of 
which in particular supplies the town with water. 
It is about three fathoms deep, and its water was 
the temperature of 76° of Fahrenheit. 

A great number of half-naked negro men and 
women flocked down to fetch water from this well 
Tudor, in his journal, speaking of the latter, ob- 
serves, that their whole figure, their hanging 
breasts, and other personal accomplishments, made 
our young gentlemen of the party dream of the Ye- 
nuses we should have to admire in the kingdom of 
Congo. 

No boat was yet to be seen. We had hired a 
negro corporal for our guide, and that we might 
not lose more time we determined to set out on 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 253 

our inland journey, though without instruments, 
and though our boxes, which were not calculated 
for a long tour, were already filled with plants. 
Our plan was, if possible, to proceed this evening 
to the loot of Pico Antonio (the highest mountain 
in the island), and having reposed ourselves in 
some hut during the night, to ascend the summit 
the following morning ; then to cross the mountain 
in a S. W. direction down the valley Publico 
Grande and Cividad ; and lastly, to return by the 
road leading to El Matheo. That part of the 
island, through which we had to pass, is unfortu- 
nately the most level. From the cliffs near the sea, 
rising perpendicularly some scores of feei^ large 
tracts of land, scorched by the sun, extend them- 
selves upwards. They are intersected by level 
barrancoes, of which the valley la Trinidad is the 
largest, running from two and three leagues from 
the harbour up to the mountains in a W. N. W. di- 
rection. Through this valley, as being the most 
fertile, we took our way. Its lower end is horizon- 
tal, and at first sandy and naked. Some solitary 
trees of a Mimosa were the first pleasing objects 
that occurred ; and soon afterwards we observed, 
for the first time, a huge Adansonia, divided into 
three large trunks, thick in proportion to their 
height, with bended branches, and the fruit (Gal- 
bufera) hanging on long stalks. Though destitute 
of leaves, the sight of such a tree made an agree- 
able impression, and the fruit I found to be refresh- 
ing. In the upper part of the valley luxuriant 
thickets of Jatropha curcas^ and thorny Zizyphi^ 
covered with ripe and somewhat acid fruit, were 
found growing. After these followed lofty fig- 
trees, Annonrc^ with ripe fruit, &c. Our first stay 
was at a hut on the border of the valley, where 
we refreshed ourselves with delicious goat's milk. 



260 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

The scenery became more and more delightful. 
Shadowy mimosae, oranges, and fig-trees increase 
in number. A multitude of small Fringillce^ an 
Alcedo with tropical plumage, and many other birds 
fluttered about us. The valley continued to ex- 
pand itself. New plants occurred in quick suc- 
cession, and different kinds of cultivated trees be- 
came more and more frequent. For the first time 
we discovered a whole thicket of Cassia fistula with 
ripe fruit, and for the first time had Tudor the 
striking sight of Bananas^ Cactus opuntia^ &c. Of 
all the plants I have hitherto seen, none appeared 
more interesting to me than Jlsclepias proceray 
w^hich here grows half wild like the shrubs in a 
thicket. 

All at once we w ere called from out of the val- 
ley by Tudor. It seemed that our guide, John Co- 
rea, had no great inclination of venturing too far, 
w ithout partaking of some refreshment, and that 
he had discovered a convenient spot for us to eat 
our dinner. A fowl, with the root of cassava and 
some eggs, supplied us with a very good meal. 
While it was preparing, we took a ramble up the 
rising ground to the westward ; afterwards, having 
finished our meal, we proceeded on our journey in 
the valley, which, from the eminences, w as seen 
most to its advantage. A part of it, which was 
wider than usual, was planted with indigo, cassava, 
and sugar-canes of light green colour, and inter- 
spersed with groupes of Pisang^ oranges, Jinnonce^ 
&c. mixed with solitary tall cocoa-palms. Farther 
on, the valley winded up the mountains, and lost 
itself on their eminences. We had soon descended 
and pursued our way between the gardens along a 
rivulet, that ran from the upper end of the valley, 
and after having watered and fertilized this beau- 
tiful spot, here lost itself We found the inhabi- 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 261 

lants very hospitable and good-natured. A rich 
farmer invited us into his house to drink tamarind 
lemonade ; on arriving at it, we soon observed that 
it indicated a wealthy owner. He was governor, 
it seemed, of this district, and possessed a great 
part of the valley and the above-mentioned plan- 
tations. Here we saw the only vineyard which had 
yet occurred, and a large Ailuntkus in flower. 

The barranco now became narrower. We pro- 
ceeded along its eastern bank across its lower part, 
and upwards on a gently rising and naked ground. 
It grew dark before we had advanced further 
than three leagues. The numerous objects in our 
way, and the tardiness of my fellow travellers, had 
much delayed us. We came to another barranco 
well watered and fertile, and soon arrived at a 
groupe of houses, m here we were well received, 
entertained as usual with goat's milk and cheese, 
and had mats for our sleeping upon. The name 
of this place is Faaru, Close to the houses was a 
steep rock, upon which I found several interesting 
plants, and among them a beautiful new Lavendula^ 
and several others met with in the Canaries. Be- 
low was a clear spring, overshadowed by Pisangs 
and cocoa-trees. Its temperature was one degree 
higher than the well at Porto, though we had as- 
cended to the height of about 1000 ^eat 

At daybreak we heard a shot from the harbour, 
which made us doubtful whether we should pro- 
ceed on our journey, but not perceiving, on looking 
through the telescope, any blue flag hoisted, we 
continued leisurely to walk upwards. We had 
not advanced far when the appearance of the coun- 
try became entirely changed. After having for 
some time seen nothing, on the other side of the 
cultivated ground, but tracts of land scorched by 
the sun, and in some places overgrown with Spcr- 

23 



262 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

macoce verticillata and a few Sidce^ it was an unex- 
pected sight to perceive the hills covered with 
grass, from one to two feet high, being a species of 
Panisetum whose tropical nature was discovered by 
its ramifications. Innumerable herds of goats, 
sheep, and cattle were feeding all around. It had 
struck me that of the whole family of the Euphor- 
biacece, which are peculiar to a great part of the 
African countries, from the Canaries to the Cape 
of Good Hope, the Jatropha only is here to be met 
with, and this too is a foreign importation. In the 
small level valleys on the sides of the grassy moun- 
tains, I perceived groupes of a shrub, which had 
something new in its appearance, and on approach- 
ing it, I found at last an Euphorbia^ that bore so 
near a resemblance to piscatoria^ as scarcely to be 
distinguished from it. I met successively with 
several old acquaintances on the hills, as for in- 
stance, a Bupthalmum sericeum; most of them, 
however, in the Canaries, are growing in the low- 
est region. 

Another beautiful view opened to the east. The 
valley of St. Domingo lay under our feet, between 
perpendicular rocks. South American and tropi- 
cal fruit trees, plantations of sugar and other ve- 
getables, in various places, and at the bottom a 
rivulet, formed by several streams springing from 
the steep rocks around, afforded a most delightful 
view of contrasting objects. We had now reached 
the ridge of the mountains, and followed it for some 
time over valleys and hills, partly covered with 
high grass, and interspersed Euphorbia^ Jatropha 
curcas^ and some solitary Mimosas, 

The day was already far adv anced, and on see- 
ing the Peak again before us, we found the ascend- 
ing it would take the remaining part of our time, 
and that the way we had followed, though it was 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 263 

the most commodious, was at the same time the 
longest. We resolved, therefore, to limit our far- 
ther journey to the ascent of one of the conical 
hills that surrounded us, in order to take as exten- 
sive a view of the island as possible, and then to 
return. Corea was despatched to the nearest 
shepherd's hut to procure us some milk. We gave 
up our first plan with less regret, by considering 
that we had brought no barometer with us; but in 
return we missed many interesting plants, the num- 
ber of which continued increasing as we walked on. 
We had soon reached the summit of the nearest 
hill to the left; and to the southwest, the level land 
through which we had travelled, comprehending 
the whole barranco of Trinidad down to Puerto, 
was spreading itself under our feet. Farther on 
to the west some hills were seen, between which 
another barranco was winding its course down to 
Publico grande. The ridge of mountains runs in 
the direction of the longest diameter of the island 
from S. E. to N. W., but it runs nearer the sea and 
with steeper declivities at the N. E. than at the 
opposite side. The valley of St. Domingo is one 
of the deep barrancos to this side, and there are 
probably more of them farther on. Their steep 
side towards the ridge of the mountains, as also 
the Pico Antonio itself, have a complete basaltic 
appearance. No trace of real volcanoes were to 
be seen. The hills to the W^ S. W. have a more 
volcanic form, and it is in this direction that the 
high peak of the island of Fogo is situated, but 
this we unfortunately could not discover through 
the clouds. Pico Antonio is very steep at its west- 
ern side. At the opposite side it would be easy 
to ascend it, the highest summit, perhaps, only ex- 
cepted. Its perpendicular height is scarcely more 
than .^jOOO feet, and from the place where we stood, 



264 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

about 3000 feet. Pico occupies about the middle 
of the ridge of the mountains, which is continued 
to the N. and N. W. by mountains more rounded^ 
but not much lower. Its geological features, to 
conclude from the structure of the mountains, do 
not in any essential point deviate from those of the 
Grand Canaria. All the specimens of minerals 
which I collected, are principally the same as those 
found in the latter island. According to the no- 
tices which are to be found on some maps, there 
can be no doubt that the four islands to the N. W. 
N. are of the same submarine volcanic nature. 
Mayo and Bonavista may be compared with the 
lower part of St. Jago, and Fogo is in all likeli- 
hood the only volcanic one. The climate of the 
island is delightful, and considering its situation 
within the tropics, it is remarkably temperate. Of 
this the nature of the vegetation gave evident 
proofs. There were found very few tropical plants 
in proportion to the number of those which are 
common in temperate countries. The tempera- 
ture which has been given for its wells probably 
does not much differ from the mean temperature 
(isothermos) of the island. It was with difficulty I 
could draw the information from the inhabitants 
that it is now about a month or six weeks since the 
rainy season commenced . The Adansonia^ Jatropha., 
and Ziziphus Avere already stripped of their leaves, 
and the Mimosa was producing new ones. Almost 
all annual plants were decayed by drought. The 
rainy season was said to last from five to six months, 
and to continue to the end of September. The 
atmosphere, after being heated in traversing the 
continent of Africa, is afterwards fully saturated 
in passing over the sea, and arrives at this island 
in a humid state, so that the fog comes down at the 
slightest degree of cooling. The mountains, even 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 265 

tliose of less height, are almost constantly covered 
with clouds. At the height of 1 400 to 1 500 feet, the 
appearance of the country is completely changed. 
The hills are covered w^ith grass of a tropical 
form and magnitude. A number of small streams 
spring up in the barrancos and water the valleys. 
The cultivation is extended with success to the 
tops of the hills. This sudden transition was, as 
usual, very striking in the plants, which induced 
me to represent in a table their physical and geo- 
graphical distribution.* Whether the still higher 
parts of Pico Antonio might possess a third physi- 
cal diversity we could not determine, but this is 
hardly probable. The whole number of the dif- 
ferent plants collected did not exceed eighty, 
among which about a dozen are new species, and 
perhaps one new genus. We did not see any oJ 
the green monkeys that inhabit the steep hills in 
great number, but many of them were brought on 
board by the inhabitants. It was near noon. We 
waited a long while for Corea, and sent Lockhari 
to fetch him. Corea returned by another road, 
and we waited again a long while for Lockhart, 
but resolved at last to leave a direction for him to 
follow, and to hasten back on our return. At Faaru 
we hired two jackasses in order to save time, and 
galloped off by a shorter way across the plain. 
But I almost swore never more to make use of 
these animals, because by being obliged to beat 
them continually, our arms were as much fatigued 
as our feet would have been by running. Lock- 
hart arrived nearly as soon as ourselves. The ofli- 
cers and the marines were on shore ; and on being 
informed that the vessels were not to put to sea 
until the wind was fair, we walked quietly back 

^ See Table at the end of tlic Scctioa. 



266 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

again ta the town, to remain there during the night. 
It was on the eve of Maundy Thursday. A pro- 
cession with wretched music moved round the mar- 
ket-place. We understood from the officers, that 
several curious circumstances had taken place. 
The governor had been washing the feet of some 
of the poor inhabitants. Judas Iscariot was hanged 
in ef^gy^ and had received some hard thumps 
by way of chastisement, and so forth. The gover- 
nor had invited Eyres and Galwey to dinner, an 
hospitality which proved to be rather interested, 
he himself and the noble lady, his consort, begging 
as presents for every thing they saw or could ima- 
gine to be on board the ship. All the provisions 
that are brought to market, pass in a manner 
through the hands of the governor, and their price 
is enhanced by the duty, which is applied to the 
defraying the expenses for maintaining the garrison 
and the civil government. The colony probably 
does not afford any revenue to the government, nor 
charge it with any expenses ; for which reason the 
communication with the mother-country is very 
little, or none at all. Almost all the inhabitants of 
the lower classes are black people. Eyres came 
the following morning ashore, in order to fetch the 
remainder of the provisions, consisting of goats, 
sheep, fruits, &;c. to which we added a quantity of 
oranges, peaches, &:c. Captain Tuckey, Hawkey, 
and Galwey had been at the end of La Trinidad, 
and in another small barranco which is the country 
seat of the governor. Cranch had been rambling 
about the plain, and shot a number of birds. Fitz- 
maurice and Galwey, on the first morning, had 
been very successful in fishing in the bay, but the 
boat was upset, by which they lost the fishes. The 
last of these misfortunes happened to Fitzmaurice 
and Galwey in the morning of the day of our de- 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 267 

parture. As they were going on shore with a view 
of making trigonometrical observations, the boat 
was again upset. The instruments narrowly es- 
caped being lost, and the gentlemen saved them- 
selves at the expense of some bruises only. 



DisposiTio Geographica /)/aw/an/m quas legi in insula 
Sti. Jacobi die a;™° et 0:1"'* Calend. Aprilts ; circa por- 
tum PraycB in convalle Trinidad et montibus Pico St 
Antonio confinibus ad altitudinem circiter 3000 pedum, 

k, Regio inferior : arida^ 1500 ped. circiter alta. 
I. Plantce tropicoe, 

a. Proprice. 

Mimosa glandulosa. - - - MS. 

Convolvolus jacobaeus. - - do. 

affinis eriospermo. - do. 

Boerhavia suberosa. sp. nov. - do. 

depressa. ditto - do. 

Glycina punctala. - - - do. 
Smilacina anomala genus forte novum, do. 

b. Senegalenses. 

Adansonia digitata. 

Achyranthes tomentosa. - - MS. 

Spermacoce verticillata ; etiam in Jamaica. 

Momordica Senegalensis. 

Cardiospermum hirsutum. 

Sonchus goreensis 

c. Introductce. AmericanoE 7ium quasi indigent propar- 
tes tropica^. 

Jatropha curcas. 
Anona tripetala. 
Tribulus cistoides. 



268 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL 

Argemone mexicana. 

Solanum furiosum ? 

Datura metel. 

Cassia occidentalig. 

Ipomea pilosa. 

Eclipta erecta b. 

Malva ciliata ? - - - MS. 

Sida polycarpa ? - - - do. 

repens ? - - - do. 

micans ? _ _ - do. 

d. Introductce AsiaticcB num quasi indigence, 
Justicia malabarica. 
Calotropis procera. 
Abrus precatoriiis. 
Plumbago. 
2. Plantce Zonce temperatce. 

a. ProprioB. 

Herniaria illicebroides. sp. nov. - MS. 

Zygophjllum stellulatum, sp. nov. - do. 
Lotus jacobseus. 

Zyzyphus insularis. - - - MS. 

Antirhinum molle. - - do. 

Borago gruina. - - - do. 

Lavendula apiifolia, sp. nov. - do. 

Polycarpia glauca, do. - - do 

b. Canarisnsis. 

Sideritis punctata f 

Heliotropium plebeium. Bmiks Herb, 

Lotus glaucus. 

Eranthemum salsolo'ides. 

Sacharum Tenerifae. 

Physalis somnifera. 

Polygonum salicifolium. 

Sida Canariensis } 

c. Boreali — Africanm,, qum simul Canarierises. 

Cucumis colocynthis. 
Aloe perfoliata. 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 269 

Tamarix gallica, var. canariensis. 
Phoenix dactylifera. 
Ccnchrus ciliatus. 
Celsia betonica^fblia. 
Comelina africana. 
Acliyrantims argentea. 
Corchorus trilocularis, 
d. C opens es, 

Sarcostemma nudum. 
Forskohlea Candida. 

B. Begio superior : humida grammosa ; inter aids 
1500 3002 ped. et forsan ad summa cacumina 
usque. 

a. PropricB, 

Euphorbia arborescens, sp. nov. - MS. 
Pennisetum ramosum. - - - do. 

Campanula jacobaea sp. nov. - MS. 

Poly gal a ? 

Lotus lanatus sp. nov. . - - MS. 
Spermacoce } divers, genus, videter, MS. 

Festuca ? 

b. Canarienses. 

Bupthalmum sericeum. 
Thymus therebinthinaceus. 
Sideroxylon marmulana ? (Madeira) 
Festuca gracilis. 

c. MeridionaU'EuropecB^ quoe etiam in Canarien. 

Silene gallica. 
Oxalis corniculata. 
Sisymbrium nasturtium. 
Centaureum autumnale. 
Anagallis cerulea. 
Radiola milligrana. 
Gnaphalium '^ 

d. Copenses. 

Crotalaria procumbens ? 
24 



270 PUOFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

Hedyotis capensis. 
e. AmericancB introductce ? 
Evolvolus lanatus. 
Tagetes elongata. 
Indeterminabiles absque flore et fructu., 
Compositae annuae, (duo) 
Liliacea. 
Convolvolus. 

Trutex. No. 90. - - . MS. 

Cenchrus. 
Crypsis. 
Bilabiata. 



[ 271 ] 
SECTION 11. 

From St. Jago to the Mouth of the River Zaire. 

We weighed anchor about noon of the 12th, the 
wind blowing fresh from off the island. At 5 o'clock, 
the fog at the horizon having disappeared, we got 
sight of the peak of Fogo, which reared itself 
above the skies. Though at a distance of fourteen 
leagues, the sun, which was setting behind the 
island, afforded us a distinct and beautiful view of 
its form. The height of the peak probably is not 
less than 7000 feet, which is considerable for a spot 
of so small a circumference. The following days 
we proceeded at a moderate rate towards S.E. till 
the 19th, when the wind dying away, veered some- 
what to the south. We had calm weather and 
squalls alternately. Thus we found ourselves in 
that miserable region which has been so much 
spoken of as exposed to an everlasting calm and 
violent rains. The wind that accompanied them 
generally blew from the south, which obliged us to 
turn the ship's head towards the coast of Africa. 
The horizon was constantly foggy. In the evening 
dark clouds arose from the east, and flashes of 
lightning gleamed all the night. The west was 
generally clear, sometimes with scattered dark 
clouds, which at the setting of the sun, being 
tinged with an infinite variety of colours, presented 
an interesting appearance never witnessed in the 
northern hemisphere without the tropic. The 
other parts of tlie canopy of heaven were mostly 
bright, except when they were overcast with a 
squall. The wind that preceded and followed the 



272 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

latter was seldom strong, but the rain fell in such 
torrents and in such large drops, as to keep the 
surface of the water smooth. We had not any 
opportunity of making observations on the depth 
of the sea. The polar-star was sinking low to- 
wards the horizon, and it was with difficulty we 
could discover it for the fog, in order to bid it fare- 
well, for God knows how long a time. New con- 
stellations were making their appearance towards 
the south. The bright-glimmering stars of the 
Cross and the beautiful form of the Scorpion, were 
geen in the course of the night. The heat during the 
day was intense, but I did not feel greater incon- 
venience from it, than I had experienced upon 
former occasions. The evenings were cool and 
agreeable. During the last fourteen days I was 
occupied with examining the plants I had collected 
in St. Jago, and this employment being now finish- 
ed, T am about to make some sketches of the phy- 
sical objects of that island. On the evening of the 
28th, Fitzmaurice and myself set out in a boat to 
make observations on the current. The sea was 
quite smooth, but a gentle swelling from the west, 
and an uncommonly dark cloud from that quarter, 
indicated an approaching change in the state of 
the weather. In the night I was awakened by the 
motion of the vessel, and on arising I saw the Congo 
again taken in tow, and the vessels proceeding with 
a brisk and cool westerly wind. We are now at 
the distance of 14 to 15 leagues only from the 
coast of Africa. Should the wind continue as it 
is, we shall soon reach the latitude of Cape Pal- 
mas, and probably then be out of this hot and te- 
dious pacific ocean, and approach the line, when, I 
suppose, we shall have to go through the usual 
ceremony of being shaved by Neptune, Our whole 
party continues to be cheerful aiid agreeable. Poor 



PROFESSOR S3IITH'S JOURNAL. 273 

Cranch is almost too much the object of jest. Gal- 
Avey is the principal banterer. 

April 30. To-day we had the most violent squall 
we yet had witnessed, and the Captain himself 
owned that he had never seen a horizon so dark as 
that, towards which we were now sailing this after- 
noon. At the horizon Hashes of lightning crossed 
each other in the deep darkness, which soon sur- 
rounded us. The rain, falling in torrents, and ac- 
companied by flashes of lightning in rapid succes- 
sion, approached us. We could no longer gaze at 
this dreadful phenomenon, but were obliged to re- 
treat into the cabin. After somewhat more than the 
half of the squall had passed us, we ventured up 
again, and enjoyed the most sublime scene of the 
w hole heaven beautifully illuminated by flashes of 
lightning. It generally darted forth from two 
points, now rising like spouts of water, now running 
in zigzag, and spreading itself into innumerable 
branching shapes. No lightning I had seen in Eu- 
rope bore any resemblance to this. 

From tiie third to the tenth of May we had a 
southerly wind, that carried us far into the Bay of 
Guinea. Innumerable shoals of fish of different 
kinds, but chiefly Albkorc and Bonilos^ were swim- 
ming in all directions. Every day some of them 
were caught. Flocks of birds belonging to the 
tropical regions, and now and then some men-of- 
war birds, were seen. From the 10th, the weather 
has been frequently calm, but the squalls have 
somewhat abated. To-day a man died on board, 
who had been sick a long time. On opening him, a 
<[uantity of coagulated and extravasated blood was 
found in the pericardium. It was not without some 
emotion that I witnessed for the first time a burial 
at sea. Tuckey read the prayers, and tw o sailors 
in white shirts lowered him over the side. The 



274 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

common story that the sick recover, when the ship 
comes in soundings, was not in his case verified. 

1 4th. In the afternoon we had the very amusing 
sight of a great multitude of fishes, flying over the 
surface of the water and chased by albicores, which 
hurried after them with the swiftness of an arrow. 
The chase took place close to the vessel. 

15th. A number of brown indicated that we 

were not far from land ; and on the 1 6th, in the 
morning, we came in sight of Prince's island, at the 
distance of about ten leagues. This island had a 
singular appearance. Steep rocks of a cubical 
and conical form arose towards N. E. and E., some 
of which, on the side we passed, were perpendicu- 
lar, and white as chalk. It is difficult to assign a 
reason for this white colour. Their forms prove 
that they are basaltic rocks, but no white substance, 
as far as I know, occurs in such large masses in this 
formation. Some of the gentlemen supposed this 
colour to be owing to the multitudes of water-fowls 
which frequent these rocks ; but the number is 
scarcely conceivable that would be requisite to 
supply matter for covering rocks of the height of 
2000 to 3000 feet, and of such a substance as to 
make it appear at so great a distance. The next 
two or three days we endeavoured to get to the 
westward, in order to pass St. Thomas on the west 
side, that we might not make the coast of Africa 
before we had passed the latitude of Cape Lopez. 

May 18. This day we got sight of the island; 
and on the 21st we passed its north-west side, at 
the distance of two or three leagues, and were now 
arrived at the lowest degree of the northern hemis- 
phere. The island is uncommonly high, its ridge 
of mountains rising in a peak (St. Anna), which can- 
not be of less height than 8000 feet : yet, on look- 
ing through the telescope, we discovered the monn- 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL* 275 

tains covered with trees up to their very summits. 
What an inviting sight ! how many new and inter- 
esting objects the natural historian has passed for 
centuries, without bestowing a moment's notice on 
them ! We know Httle or nothing of these islands, 
though they are situated as it were in the midst of 
a track which has been for ages one of the most 
frequented by vessels of all nations, while immense 
collections of plants and animals have been brought 
together from Australia, China, the East Indies, and 
South America. For the last eight days we made 
a cruise, which was perhaps unnecessary, in order 
to pass to the westward of St. Thomas. How I 
could have wished to have spent these days on the 
island ! 

May 23. In the course of this morning we cross- 
ed the line. All the sons of Neptune were now- 
busy in their preparations for a visit from his Tri- 
tons; who soon made their appearance with their 
hair dressed w ith hempen tails, their backs striped 
with tar, their heads covered with large caps, and 
gave notice to the Captain of the arrival of the God 
of the Sea, which was instantly announced by the 
sound of fifes and drums. 

[Here follows a long detailed account of the ridiculous ceremonies 
performed on those who for the first time cross the Equator, 
which, new and amusing as they were to Dr. Smith, do not de- 
serve insertion here.\ 

We continued to steer towards the M^est till the 
26th, but the wind veering more and more to the 
eastward, it was resolved to try the other course 
along the coast. The sea is here uncommonly 
abundant in fish. The whole surface is often put in 
motion by the flying-fishes, when chased by others. 
Their number is immense. Shoals of them con- 
stantly surrounded the vessel, and at night they 
give out a white light, resembling that of the moon, 



276 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

when reflected by the sea. It was also chiefly at 
night that we were enabled to catch, with the net, 
the greatest number of moUusca and Crustacea, — 
Many different substances contribute to make the 
surface of the sea light. Some parts of the bodies 
of most of the Crustacea have certain glittering 
points, and two or three species of crabs were per- 
ceived to give out the most brilliant light. The 
points, which are to be seen on the mollusca, are 
larger, but less bright. But that luminous appear- 
ance which diffuses itself over the whole surface of 
the sea, arises from a dissolved slimy matter, which 
spreads its light like that proceeding from phos- 
phorus. The most minute glittering particles, when 
highly magnified, had the appearance of small and 
solid spherical bodies. 

May 28. We saw for the first time this day one 
of those floating islands, often mentioned, and 
which probably come out of one of the rivers of 
Africa. The Captain permitted us to put out a 
boat, in order to examine it. It was about 120 feet 
in length, and consisted of reeds, resembling the 
Donax^ and a species of Agrostis ? among which 
were still growing some branches oi Justicia ; and 
in the midst of these were seen a number of ani- 
mals {Sepice) ? For many days past the sea-water 
has been uncommonly cold. We were probably 
in soundings, though we could not reach the bot- 
tom with a line of 120 fathoms. I am often up at 
night fishing for marine animals, of some of which 
I make sketches. 

June 2. We this day got sight of the continent 
of Africa for the first time. The land was very low, 
but we did not approach it sufficiently near to be 
able to describe its appearance. The 3d and 4th 
we continued under the land with a southerly wind. 
The Captain resolved io stand out again to the 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL 277 

westward, which course we followed, cruising till 
the 14th, but found that the wind was veering 
more and more against us, and becoming the 
steady tropical westerly (easterly ?) wind. We 
stood in a second time for the coast, and got in 
sight of it on the 18th. In the morning we des- 
cried a large vessel. All on board believed it to 
be one of His Majesty's ships, which were known 
to be stationed here for the preventing of the slave 
trade. All were immediately busy with writing 
letters. On coming up, however, we felt no small 
disappointment on being informed that it was an 
East Indiaman going to St. Helena. I had indulged 
a hope of soothing my poor mother's anxiety on 
my account. We were now at a distance of two 
or three leagues from the coast, of which we had 
a distinct view. The shore consists of black per- 
pendicular rocks, with yellowish streaks running 
in the same direction, and mixed with larger spots 
of the same colour; and lower down resemblivjg 
beds of pumice stone. Behind these rocks a broad 
ridge arises covered with trees, some of which 
scattered here and there greatly overtopped the 
rest. In some places we observed plains of con- 
siderable extent, and of a yellowish colour, proba- 
bly owing to the dry grass; we observed also 
clouds of smoke, proving that the custom of set- 
ling dry grass on fire is even here prevalent. Se- 
veral leaves and pieces of wood floated past on the 
water. About the parallel of Cape Yamba, and at some 
distance from the shore, is a conical hill, the height 
of which, though it is the highest part of an exten- 
sive ridge, did not appear to exceed 1000 (eet 
The longitude of this coast is very erroneously 
marked on the charts, so that according to the 
most recent, and we may suppose the best, it ap- 
peared from several good lunar observations, we 

2o 



^78 PROFESSOR SMITHES JOURNAL. 

should have been sailing inland to a considerable 
distance. 

June 14. A dead albatros (a bird rarely to be 
met with so far to the north,) was fished up. On 
the 20th, a whale was swimming close to the ves- 
sel. For the last eight or ten days the weather 
has been humid and foggy. The Captain now 
communicated to us his instructions relative to our 
conduct in our future excursions. They are such 
as to afford a satisfactory proof of his liberal con- 
duct towards us. We have two Congo negroes on 
board, both of whom speak English. One of them, 
named Ben, acts as my servant ,- but as Ben left 
his native country when twelve years of age, and 
as the other is but very little acquainted with the 
English language, we have not profited much by 
their information. 

We have for some days past been proceeding at 
a regular but slow rate along the coast. The sea- 
breeze generally sets in at noon from S. W., and 
carries us somewhat forwards to the south. We 
now anchor in shallow water at the distance of 
two or three leagues from the shore. The country 
here is very low, and thickly covered with wood. 
The coast has a sandy beach, on which we can 
distinctly see the breakers, and hear them roar at 
night. 

June 23. We anchored at a distance of three 
leagues from the shore, and had a beautiful view 
of it. The thick forests, which rise in two, and 
sometimes three successive ranges behind one 
another, varied by plains covered with grass of a 
light green colour, though they present an inter- 
esting appearance, nearly resembling that of the 
woody shores of the Danish islands, indicate, at the 
same time, as far as may be judged at a distance, 
a great uniformity of the country itself, and of its 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 279 

natural productions. By looking through the teles- 
cope I did not discover any difference in the form 
or colour of the trees. Some of them scattered 
about towards the beach appeared higher than the 
rest, and were probably palms of the cocoa tribe. 
The pieces of wood which we have fished up, do 
not present any variety in their appearance. Ben 
asserts that the banks of the river Congo are per- 
fectly similar to this shore. Whales (probably Phy- 
seter . . .) are seen daily swimming near the vessel. 
We catch every day a number oi' Spams resembling 
Pagrus, Its flesh, though dry, has a very good 
taste. On the 2}ith we had passed that vast tract 
of land, the appearance of which has been here 
described, extending from Cape Mayambo through 
Malambo and Guilango down to the bay of Loan- 
go. In the two last days the aspect of the country 
has changed. The trees do not form themselves 
into forests, but are scattered in groupes only, or 
stand singly, having uncommonly large tops. These 
groupes might be discovered from a great distance, 
even when the whole country presented itself only 
as a blue line, bordered by a gently rising ground 
apparently naked, with banks of a grayish white 
colour, which probably are banks of clay that 
have fallen down. 

To-day we made several attempts before we 
could weigh the anchor. The current was very 
strong, and the bottom, which before consisted of 
a sandy clay, was here uncommonly uneven, with 
banks of coral rocks and mud alternately. Al- 
though the sea-breeze blew fresh, the vessel made 
not the least progress. On weighing the anchor 
for the fourth time, we found it now to be so diffi- 
cult, that we were obliged at last to cut the cable. 
To-day, the 29th, in the afternoon, we are again 
ander sail. We have ascertained that we already 



280 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

must have passed the southern point of the bay of 
Loango, although this point on all our charts m 
placed much farther to the southward. The wea- 
ther is clearing up, and the heat is again increasing. 
The nights are resembling those we had in the baj 
of Guinea, the atmosphere being clear, except at 
the horizon, where it is foggy. The sea-breeze 
enables us to get to the southward, and we shall 
soon see a new hemisphere, with new constellations 
appearing at night. The sea-breeze generally con- 
tinues until midnight, but is not follow^ed by any 
land-breeze at all, the weather continuing calm 
until the sea-breeze sets in again at noon, or some- 
what later. This may be partly explained by sup- 
posing, that by the returning current of the air in 
the higher regions of the atmosphere, the equili- 
brium is restored ; a supposition which is the more 
probable from the fact, that the fog, which had 
been driven together towards the shore, as soon as 
the calm comes on, again covers the heavens, which 
before were clear; but the principal reason of the 
want of the land-breeze may probably be this, that 
the great current of air setting from the two coasts 
of this narrow part of Africa towards the interior, 
is deflected towards the north, where the continent 
is greatly extended, and where the heat is much 
more intense. 

Some days ago the sea had a colour as of blood. 
Some of us supposed it to be owing to the whales, 
which at this time approach the coasts in order to 
bring forth their young. It is however a phenome- 
non which is generally known, has often been de- 
scribed, and is owing to myriads of infused animal- 
culae. I examined some of them taken in this blood- 
coloured water : when highly magnified, they do 
not appear larger than the head of a small pin. — 
They were at first in a rapid motion, which how- 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 281 

ever soon ceased, and at the same instant the whole 
animal separated into a number of small spherical 
particles. The sea has again assumed a reddish 
appearance ; but this is probably owing to mud, 
that has been dissolved. We have of late not had 
any sick on board. When we were in the bay of 
Guinea, several symptoms of a putrid fever were 
discovered ; but this disorder, as also a peripneu- 
monia that frequently occurred, and sometimes was 
very violent, were easily cured. 

July 1. This morning we found ourselves near 
the coast at the large mouth of the river Loango 
Luisa, on the south side of it. This river is called 
Caconga in the chart ; and in the place where Lo- 
anojo Luisa is marked, no river exists. The coast 
before us had perpendicular cliffs towards the sea. 
Its banks consist of a reddish substance, which, as 
far as may be judged from a piece of about one foot 
in length, which was taken up with the anchor, is 
a hardened chalky clay or marl. Their upper part, 
which is flat, is overgrown with scattered groupe« 
of palms and other solitary trees. The bay of Ma- 
lambo is situated lower down witliin the banks. — 
The harbour of Malambo, as also that ofCabenda. 
which is next to it, were formerly the principal 
trading places of the French on this coast. 

At noon we went all upon deck on hearins; th<^ 
Captain hailing some canoes that were in sight. 
They soon came alongside. This circumstance, 
more than the aspect of the country, reminded us 
of the place in which we were. On looking at the 
hollow trunks of which their canoes were made, 
each pushed forwards by two or three naked ne- 
groes, who stood upright in them, the figures re- 
sembling those I had seen in South Sea voyagei^ 
were brought to my mind. The canoes were from 
twelve to fourteen feet in length, and from one to 



282 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

one foot and a third in breadth, and about as much 
in depth ; the upper part of the sides were some- 
what bent outwards, the bottom was flat, and both 
ends pointed. The oars were made of a rounded 
flat piece of wood, fastened to a staff! A half- 
dressed negro addressed us in English, and ap- 
peared very much pleased by being answered in 
the same language, and invited on board. He 
called himself Tom Liverpool^ and said he was the 
interpreter of the Mafook, whose visit he came to 
announce ; but he appeared to be greatly astonish- 
ed on being told that we were not come for the 
sake of trade. The Mafook came soon after in an 
European boat, bearing a small white flag, and he 
had an umbrella over his head. He welcomed us 
in the English language. They were all invited 
into the cabin, and the conversation became gene- 
ral, partly in broken English, and partly in some- 
what better French. They were very much alarm- 
ed on hearing from us, that hereafter no other na- 
tion except the Portuguese, could carry on the 
slave trade with them ; and one of them, consider- 
ing the King of England as the cause of it, broke 
out into a violent passion, abusing and calling him 
" the devil." The inhabitants of Malambo, who 
were formerly wealthy, since the abolition of the 
slave trade, have become very poor, because their 
town was little more than the general market-place 
for the disposal of slaves, having no other source 
of profit, than what those slaves from the interior 
and the trade of the harbour afforded them. 

After having refreshed themselves with a glass 
of brandy, and with great appetite partaken of 
our biscuit, filling their pockets with it at the same 
time, it was resolved that the Mafook, with some of 
his gentlemen, should remain on board during the 
night, and that in the mean time the boat should 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 283 

be sent on shore, and return with refreshments the 
next morning. They now put on their court- 
dresses, which they had brought with them. One 
appeared in the coat of an American officer, another 
in a red waistcoat, a third in a sailor's red jacket, 
the Mafook himself in a red cloak. All of them 
had a piece of coloured stuff wrapped round their 
loins, and a skin worn as an apron. Their legs 
were naked. Those, who called themselves gen- 
tlemen^ wore caps of several sorts, mostly red caps 
with tops, but the Mafook and two others wore 
round caps, that were made in the country itself, 
and neatly embroidered. They were presents from 
the king, who gives them on appointing any one 
to the office of Mafook. The Mafook {Tamme 
Gomma) had worn his cap six months only, but his 
predecessor, who was with him and retained the 
title, had worn his cap for ten years. On showing 
them the plate in the voyage of Grandpre, it was 
found that Tatu Derponts, at that time Mafook of 
Malambo, who is represented on this plate, was 
the uncle of Tamme Gomma. But the luxurious 

and polite manner with which Grandpre was 

received by the former, was very much contrasted 
with the poverty of the latter. Tamme Gomma 
was a man of the middle age, tall and well formed, 
with an interesting and noble countenance, which 
resembled more that of an Arab, than of a Negro. 
This was the case with several of his retinue. He 
wore over his shoulders a riband with a fetishe of 
some inches in length and breadth, representing 
two figures in a sitting posture, each of them hold- 
ing a globe in their arms : they were tolerably well 
executed. Grandpre observes of these figures that 
they have European features, and the resemblance 
struck us immediately. They had higli bare fore- 
heads, aquiline noses, painted white, and bore some 



284 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL- 

resemblance to the Egyptian, and in some parts to 
the Etruscan figures. Those of the better sort of 
people wore skins of a kind of tiger, but the rest 
wore simply skins of calf All of them wore round 
their necks pieces of cord twisted from the hair of 
elephants' tails, and above the wrist a thick ring 
of iron or copper, with figures, the execution of 
which proved that they have some skill in working 
these metals. Most of them however wore rings 
of iron. They told us, that both these metals were 
abundant in the interior, but that the country pro- 
duced no gold dust. We showed them samples of 
beads and small looking-glasses, &:c. in order to be 
informed of what value they considered them to 
be, which, as merchants, they understood perfect- 
ly well. A row of beads or a looking-glass, worth 
sixpence or thereabouts, they thought might be ex- 
changed for a fowl, and twelve cowries they con- 
sidered to be worth as much. This price is con- 
siderably higher than what would be offered for 
these commodities on the coast of Guinea, or in 
the East Indies, where forty cowries are not worth 
more than a penny. They were now called to din- 
ner, and behaved themselves perfectly after the 
manner of the French. The Mafook carved the 
meat. They drank to the health of every one of 
us. When the night came on, they all complained 
of cold, and were very much pleased to get our 
great coats to protect them. Tom Liverpool, hav- 
ing got my Norway cloak on, walked about with 
great gravity. They had several times been half 
drunk, and went now to sleep between deck. In 
the night we were boarded by a boat from Caben- 
da, which was not received. The next morning, 
having waited in vain for the Mafook's boat, and 
the breeze coming on, we made sail towards Ca- 
benda* The people of Malambo probably thought 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 285 

it too far off to follow us thither. In tlie course ol 
the day two boats boarded the Congo, and by them 
the Captain took the opportunity of having our 
guests sent ashore, though they seemed not to be 
very good friends with the people of the boats. 
These at first refused to take them at all, till the 
Captain threatened to sink them if they persisted 
in their refusal. The person who had the com- 
mand put on a red embroidered coat, being other-, 
wise naked, and came on board, where he stayed 
a few minutes only. He confirmed what the others 
had told us, that there were nine Portuguese ves- 
sels in Cabenda. As this is the most northern 
trading place that has ever been in the possession 
of the Portuguese, and which has been a matter of 
dispute with the French, it will also probably for 
the future, be declared to be the highest place to 
the northward at which they will be allowed to 
trade. It is not improbable, that the large vessel 
we met with some time ago, is also in this part. 

With the assistance of Simons (the Congo negro) 
we collected a great many words of the language 
of the people of Malambo. Many of them had 
been high up the river Congo, and told us that it is 
navigable for boats to a very considerable distance. 
Yamba Enzadi is, according to the explanation 
they gave of the word, a whirl or violent current, 
which may be passed by one side of it. We felt 
disappointed in not getting refreshments here, as 
we probably, for some time, shall have no opportu- 
nity of procuring any. The Mafook, among other 
things, had ordered a goat and a pig as a present to 
the Captain, besides fowls, fruits, <i:c. We should 
have abundance of all this, they told us, if we would 
go on shore. They had been taught by Europeans, 
among other things to be offered, never to forget 
women, and were highly pleased when we were 

26 



286 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

joking with them on that head. After all, we were 
very glad to get rid of them, because they made a 
terrible noise, particularly when their boats board- 
ed us. They were all immediately quite at home, 
and ran to assist the sailors with the utmost willing- 
ness to weigh the anchor. Some of them danced 
with the lascivious gesticulations usual with them, 
while the pretended gentlemen encouraged them. 

Fitzmaurice, accompanied by Tom Liverpool, 
had made an excursion in the morning, in order to 
examine a sand-bank to the southward ofCabenda, 
mentioned by Grandpre ; but it was found to be so 
near the shore, that it was not thought to be of any 
consequence to us. About noon, we could disco- 
ver some of the vessels at anchor under the high 
banks ; and, on a projecting low point to the south- 
ward of the harbour, some huts were observed to 
be scattered among the trees. After our guests 
had left us Fitzmaurice was again sent out ; Gal- 
wey and myself accompanied him, and Hawkey 
soon joined us. Though it was already growing 
dark, the thought of approaching for the first time 
so near the soil of Africa, afforded us great joy. 
From our anchorage, which was four miles distant 
from the shore, the depth was gradually diminish- 
ing. No breakers were observed until we came 
close under the land, the breakers running parallel 
with it to a great distance. We proceeded along 
the banks. The breakers were here so inconside- 
rable that a landin*:^ might have been effected with- 
out any difficulty ; but as the officers did not partici- 
pate in the eagerness I felt to visit the shore, we did 
not approach it nearer than at a distance of some 
hundred yards. It was a level tract of land, co- 
vered with wood, and in some places having small 
open plains, on which stood larger trees ; from this 



PROFESSOR SxMITH'S JOURNAL. 2Ji7 

plain we were sep«aratetl by a white strand. A 
bright moonlight aiding the awakened enthusiasm 
of my mind, made me fancy that I beheld charming 
landscapes, which appeared to me to be enlivened 
by the loud chirping of the grasshoppers. No 
birds or other animals were seen. On hearing the 
bignal-gun we returned. 

July 3. The Congo was ordered this day to 
proceed along the coast down to Red Point, which 
we had in sight, and which is the last point before 
entering the river; but the current carrying her 
away, she was obliged to anchor, and to-day she 
was brought up by the boats. These two last days 
we have had a gentle sea-breeze from S.S.E. (land- 
breeze ?) which sets in in the morning, and com- 
monly carries with it some butterflies. Yesterday 
it was squally, to-day it is ^oggy and dark. With 
the drag we have fished up several kinds of shells 
and Crustacea. An uncommonly large eel of a very 
good taste was caught on board the Congo. The 
temperature of the sea-water did not present any 
difference. To-day it is colder than we had yet 
ibund it in the southern hemisphere. We feel al- 
ready the strong current of the river. 

July 4. We remained all the day at anchor with 
an indistinct view of the land. 

July 5. We went into a boat to sound the nature 
of the bottom, which was found to be rocky and un- 
even. Nothing was taken up but branches of an 
,1ntipaihcs. In the afternoon, after the calm and 
warm morning, a strong sea-breeze set in. We 
weighed anchor and sailed on briskly through the 
rapid current. In the evening we found ourselves 
all at once out of soundings. The wind was dying 
away, and we thought we should be under the ne- 
cessity of driving back with the current; but at 



288 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

midnight we were again in soundings with a depth 
of 20 fathoms, and the anchor was dropt. We had 
unexpectedly passed to the other side of the chan- 
nel, but we have got in sight of the long-wished- 
for Cape Padron, and Fitzmaurice is gone to try 
the depth. 



f 289 ] 



SECTION III. 



Our Progress up the River as far as Cooloo, opposite the 
Cataract. 



We weighed anchor on ilie morning of the 6th, 
in the expectation of soon welcoming the land of 
promise, but were obliged to anchor again at seven 
o'clock under Shark Point, at a distance of one 
hundred yards from the shore. It is low, with a 
sandy strand terminating in a very steep bank. 
Along the beach and close to it is a thicket of 
shrubs ; above this another of palms extends along 
the whole shore (probably Corypha)^ and higher 
up is a lofty wood. The vegetation has the ap- 
pearance of being decayed by drought. To the 
right hand is Hippopotamus Cliff, with a low shore, 
running southward in a long straight line. The 
anchor broke at the heaving, and we were for a 
moment in a dangerous and critical situation, the 
Congo having run foul of us. For the first time in 
four months we now saw the sails taken in. A 
number of naked negroes immediately assembled 
on the shore. The land to the north (Mona Ma- 
zea,) is perfectly similar to MaxwelFs representa- 
tion of it. The mouth of the river is very large, 
perhaps fifteen miles wide. The naked hills of 
the interior consist probably of sand. Fathomless 
Point is just before us. At this point, towards the 
bank that runs down perpendicularly 100 fathoms, 
the wood appears as if it were cut off It is at 
tTiis point that the river first commences its proper 
breadth. Shark Point is a narrow and unsafe an- 
chorage. The bottom is steep and very uneven, 



290 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

as we have a depth of 17 fathoms on one side the 
vessel, and a depth of 30 fathoms on the other ; 
and a few fathoms farther ofF is the whirl of the 
rapid current. The Congo had also her anchor 
broken by carelessness. We expect to be very 
busy to-morrow morning, but there is scarcely any 
hope of getting on shore. This is a tedious tanta- 
lizing business. At ten o'clock this evening we 
have a bright moonlight. The dark forest and 
the white foaming surf below, present an interest- 
ing appearance. The negroes have made several 
fires on the Point. About the twilight the cries of 
parrots were heard from the vessel, and large 
eagles hovered over the forest. It is rather cold 
(69°), and the dew falls in large drops. The 
cuiTent runs at the anchorage about three knots 
an hour. 

July 7. Early this morning the Mafook or go- 
vernor came on board in two canoes, with his reti- 
nue. At first his pretensions were very lofty. He 
insisted upon being saluted with a discharge of 
cannon, and on observing us go to breakfast, de- 
clared that he expected to be placed at the same 
table with the Captain, and endeavoured to make 
his words sufficiently impressive by haughty gesti- 
culations. Sitting on the quarter-deck in a chair 
covered with a fiag, his dress consisting of a laced 
velvet cloak, a red cap, a piece of stuff round his 
waist, otherwise naked, with an umbrella over his 
head, though the weather was cold and cloudy, 
he represented the very best caricature I ever saw. 
He soon became more moderate on being informed 
that these vessels were not belonging to slave-mer- 
chants (who gene rally for the sake of their own profit 
grant these gentlemen every possible indulgence), 
but to the king of England, and that our object 
was not trade* In order however to give him a 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 291 

proof of our good will towards him, a gun was 
discharged, and a merchant flag hoisted. At table 
they ate and drank immoderately ; and in return 
promised to procure refreshments if we would 
send a boat on shore. In the meantime they were 
to remain on board. Fitzmaurice was accordingly 
ordered to go on shore in the boat. The Captain 
observing my extreme impatience to accompany 
him, said that if an excursion of a few minutes 
could be of any use to me he would readily give 
his permission, but that there Avas no place for 
more of us. I was not long in jumping into the 
boat. With a fair wind and witli the assistance of 
oars we were scarcely able to double the point on 
account of the current. At last with great diffi- 
culty we reached the shore. Ali, our pilot, flung 
a rope to the negroes, who flocked down, and they 
drew us for some time through the surf along the 
coast. The vegetation was magnificent and ex- 
tremely beautiful. Shrubs of a rich verdure, large 
gramineous plants, and thick groupes of palms met 
the eye alternately. The country displayed the 
most beautiful forms, the most charming scenery. 
I found myself as in a new^ world, which was be- 
fore kuown to me in imagination only, or by dra^v- 
iugs. We had still to double several points before 
we could arrive at the village, but our orders did 
not permit us to go farther. We leaped therefore 
on shore with one of the sailors, each of us carry- 
ing a rifle barrelled gun. I ran a few paces to the 
lelUwhere the tiiick and dark forest came down 
close to the strand; but my progress being ob- 
structed by shrubs and grass so as to make it im- 
possible to proceed, I turned to the opposite side. 
Tlie ground w as sandy. The strand w as in a few^ 
places some feet broad, but in general the vegeta- 
tion left no intermediate space. I met Fitzmau- 



292 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL 

rice surrounded by negroes, and bargaining for a 
turtle of immense size and a singular form, being 
no doubt a new species. On going farther I was 
so much obstructed by thickets of shrubs, that I 
was obliged to step into the water up to the mid- 
dle, which I found to be the only way of getting at 
the plants, and of taking a view of the outside of 
the trees. The most common shrub was a Chryso- 
balanus^ bearing a strong resemblance to icaco. It 
was mingled with another, which, though without 
flowers and therefore hardly determinable, is pro- 
bably a Ximema, and the same I found at St. J ago, 
(whither I believed it to have been carried,) with 

a fruit resembling much a yellow^ , which 

had a fragrant smell, and an acid but not disagree- 
able taste. The inhabitants higher up the river 
called it Gangi. The Portuguese missionaries tell 
long stories about its use in putrid fevers. Chry- 
sobalanus has also a fruit called Mafva, that is, blind, 
I saw also two large species of Anmdo^ three of 
Cypcrus^ one of which was the papyrus. It rather 
Euirprised me to find this last growing in low and 
inundated places. Various shrubs of Hibiscus with 
flowers in bunches, and growing near the water; 
a Papilionaceous plant with ripe pods, and thick 
groupes of Mangrove were successively met with. 
The palms are probably the Hyphwne,, with large 
frondes, A creeping Jasmine (the same I found at 
St. Jago), was also discovered. The forest con- 
sists of a tree resembling Ccesalpinia, but I could 
not approach near enough to be able to examine 
it. Most of the plants here mentioned are com- 
monly called South American, but they have pro- 
bably been carried thither from Africa along with 
the negroes. The Hyphcene and Cyperns papyrus 
are the same as those of Egypt. I found those 
parts of the ground the most nccessible. which had 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 2^3 

been set on fire by negroes. Near the point a 
great quantity of fish was hanging exposed to the 
air to be dried, but no huts were any where to be 
seen, nor did any women appear, which shows 
that their habitations must be situated at some dis- 
tance in the forest. 

The current carried us back in a few moments. 
The large turtle was exchanged for a pair of 
knives, worth about one shilling. Almost all the 
negroes who came on board our ship are Chris- 
tians. One of them is even a Catholic priest, or- 
dained by the Capuchin monks at Loando. They 
were baptised by these monks two years ago at 
St. Antonio, situated seven days journey from 
hence. The monks have given to the priest a di- 
ploma. This barefooted black apostle, however, 
had no fewer than five wives, the number of whom 
is always in proportion to their means and inclina- 
tion, and which they never forget to make known. 
If the early missionaries had used a little more in- 
dulgence on this point, their doctrine would cer- 
tainly have met Avith a better reception. A few 
crosses on the necks of the negroes, some Portu- 
guese prayers, and a few lessons taught by heart, 
are the only fruits that remain of the labours of 
three hundred years. If the exertions of the mis- 
sionaries had been deliberately directed towards 
civihzing the natives, what good might not have 
been effected in the course of so long a period ! 

July H. We had this morning a visit of another 
Mafook from the point of Tall Trees, situated 
higher up the river. His countenance wore the 
mark of great good-nature. He brought with him 
as a present a beautiful little goat. They tell us 
that there are eight small Portuguese vessels at 
Embomma, which seems to be the general market- 
place of all the surrounding nations. Simons, M^ho 

27 



294 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

is an important personage in his capacity of inter- 
preter, has already got some intelligence of his 
relations, after an absence of eleven years, and 
Ben is in hopes of meeting with some of his coun- 
trymen. They all agree in considering it impossi- 
ble for the Dorothy to proceed as far as Embom- 
ma. The rapidly advancing season will not allow 
us to stop until we have proceeded far up the river. 
The current u^nder the point runs from 1 to 31 
knots, and in the channel of the river from five and 
six to eleven and tw elve knots. 

On the setting in of the sea-breeze, in the after- 
noon, we weighed anchor, and were nearly boards 
ed a second time by the Congo sloop. We had no 
sooner doubled the Cape, than the vessel was 
whirled round by the force of the current. The 
wind however blowing fresh, enabled us to ad- 
vance about a mile before we were again com= 
pelled to anchor. The Congo went on briskly, fol- 
lowing Fitzmaurice, who was sounding ahead. 
She anchored at Sherwood's creek, near the shore, 
her people having thereby the satisfaction of having 
sailed before us up the river, though she had been 
towed all the day. As we anchored we saw a 
schooner steering towards Kakatoo Point. While 
we were at table this vessel discharged a gun, and 
hoisted the Swedish flag, which by mistake was re- 
ported to be Spanish. On seeing the British flag 
displayed, she fired another gun, which was said 
to have been loaded with shot, and that the ball 
passed very near our vessel. Every thing was now 
in a bustle, and all in arms ; the guns were load- 
ed, and every thing in readiness to answer such an 
unexpected salute. We were all courage, though 
aware of our inferiority in point of strejigth. The 
schooner anchored at a short distance, and sent a 
boat with a fiew men on board with the Captain's 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 295 

compliments, and an offer of his services. Captain 
Tuckey began to suspect that it was an American 
slave-vessel under Spanish colours. He returned 
for an answer, that he would send a message on 
board their vessel, with thanks for the Captain's 
civility (the real object was to reconnoitre) ; ad- 
ding, that he commanded an expedition, of which 
the principal vessel, a corvette, had proceeded be- 
fore us. The sight of regimentals, and of marines, 
and the return of Fitzmaurice in a boat from the 
upper part of the river, confirmed the Captain's 
statement. The schooner immediately turned back 
and put to sea, though her Captain had just before 
mentioned his intention to sail the next day for 
Embomma. 

On leaving the point we had an interesting view 
before us. The sea-coast with its sandy beach 
and foaming surf were gradually disappearing ; be- 
fore us was the Cape of Kakatoo, of which the 
lower part is covered with shrubs and palms to a 
distance of about half a mile from the shore, and 
farther up is a dark lofty wood. On the otiier side 
of the point the shore is covered with grass and 
shrubs, and one point after another is seen pro- 
jecting into the great bay. Making allowance for 
the tropical form of the vegetation, the scene bear^ 
some resemblance to the Danish lakes. In the 
forest of palms, some larger trees were to be seen ; 
they were destitute of leaves, and Maba is the 
name given to them by the natives. I have no 
doubt but that Jldansonia even here is to be found. 

9th. We are still in the middle of the great bay. 
On one side is Cape Kakatoo, where a num- 
ber of canoes are seen fishing. Fartlier on before 
us lies the Congo (schooner) under the land, at the 
mouth of a rapid river, the banks of ^vhich her 
people are exploring. The natives are still on 



296 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

board. The Mafook of Kakatoo cannot forget that 
he has been seated at table with the Captain of a 
King's ship. 

10th. We have been driving back during the night 
to a considerable distance. To-day we weighed 
ianchor, and endeavoured again to sail up the ri- 
ver, but on perceiving that we were driving back 
in the mid-stream, we were obliged to steer out of 
it. The vessel was very difficult to manage in the 
current. We had soon passed the mid-channel, 
which is scarcely more than H mile broad, and 
reached the Mona Mazea bank, where the depth 
was only seven fathoms. The vessel was for a 
moment in danger, but by the exertion of all on 
board, she was brought to anchor again under 
Kakatoo, a little farther back, and in shallower 
water than the first time. 

We remained here all the day waiting for the 
sea-breeze. The Captain began to entertain 
doubts whether he should be able to bring our 
clumsy bark up to the Congo. To the joy of all 
of us it was resolved that a fishing party should 
go on shore to-morrow. Every one is permitted 
to be of the party, who may be inclined, provided 
he will return with Fitzmaurice at breakfast-time. 
I thought this time too limited, and procured per- 
mission to remain on shore till dinner-time, on con- 
dition that I would risk to be cut off from the ship, 
in case the re-embarking at that time should prove 
impossible ; which condition I eagerly accepted of, 
hoping that if such an event should happen, I 
might be able to get a canoe to convey me on 
board. 

11th. We were all up before daybreak and 
went into the boat. Most of us were completely 
wet, though the swell of the sea was not very high. 
After having dried our clothes at the fire mad<^ 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 297 

bj the negroes, and waited until the first draught 
was made with the seine, when not a single fish was 
caught, the company, consisting of Cranch, Tudor, 
Lockhart, a marine, and myself, proceeded along 
the shore. This being the only opportunity we 
should probably have during the whole voyage, of 
examining the coasts, I preferred to take this 
course, though less interesting than a walk into the 
thick forests. A great many strand-plants were 
growing in the gravel; some of them presented 
forms similar to those at the Cape of Good Hope, 
and detained us a great while. At last we thought 
it necessary to turn back and enter the forest. 
Thickets of thorny shrubs made every step difficult, 
but in return every step was repaid by the disco- 
very of some new plants. Among them were the 
following; 8l Jasmine with large fragrant flowers; 
pyramids of Flagellaria of a light green colour, 
covering the trees up to their tops ; a Rhamnus 
covered with flowers; and several shrubs, almost 
all with fruit, and for this reason undeterminable. 
We tried to follow a path leading into the wood, 
and soon met with Mangrove trees, which some- 
times rise to a considerable height. Here we sunk 
to our knees in a morass. The first tropical Felix 
was seen here. I was now obliged to return. The 
whole peninsula seems to be of the same structure. 
The surf, opposing the current of the river, has 
thrown up a high sand-bank along the shore"; 
above this bank is a vast morass, covered with 
mangroves. The land at the river side is level and 
sandy, partly overgrown with lofty groupes of Hy- 
phcene. The ground is covered with an Arundo^ and 
an A7i(Iropogo7i with broad leaves. They were 
each of them about twelve feet high, but had been 
set on fire in many places. Our way led through 
thege i/?//v/ice??e palms, the fruit of wliich was hang- 



298 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

ing down in branched clusters. We met with 
some negroes, who informed us that our comrades 
were in the neighbourhood, near a pool of water 
like a fishing pond, where Cranch had just shot an 
Anhinga, We went down to the river side, and to 
our great joy found here the whole company, who 
had just had an immense draught of large fishes of 
a species of Sparus, It was near dinner-time, and 
we thought it best to accompany them on board. 
We returned accordingly with a full cargo, more 
like wood-cutters than botanists. Cranch had not 
been so very fortunate. We observed but few in- 
sects, and the birds were very shy. I saw^ a num- 
ber of parrots, small parroquets, a black-bird on 
the wing, and two small Moticillce^ but did not fire 
a single shot. Galwey brought to me a beautiful 
violet-coloured Rohinia^ which I had not seen be- 
fore. We had collected plants, the examination 
of which would require weeks, though our excur- 
sion had been so very short, not more than four 
hours. Lockhart and myself were occupied the 
whole afternoon and evening in laying in speci- 
mens of plants. I considered that the best way 
would be to preserve them immediately, and put a 
specimen of each in water. We found ourselves 
quite exhausted. The heat was from 6° to 8° of 
Fahrenheit greater inland, than on the sea-shore. 

July 12. We examined plants all this day. The 
two double boats had already been put into the 
water last night. Both are fitted up to-day, and to- 
morrow we shall leave the ship. A boat from Em- 
bomma is with us. The natives tell us that all the 
vessels which were at that place had betaken them- 
selves to flight before we entered the river, having 
got over-land from Cabenda intelligence of our ap- 
proach, which makes it probable that they were 
Americans under Portuguese colours. Every thing 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 299 

yet seems to indicate that the descriptions of the 
great breadth of the river, of the length of its course, 
&c. have been exaggerated, and that the whole ex- 
pedition will sooner terminate than any body sus- 
pected. The channel is very narrow, and the cur- 
rent never more than three knots, though six are 
marked on the chart. The gentlemen from the 
Congo came on board the transport in the after- 
noon, bringing with them specimens of several in- 
teresting plants collected during their excursions. 
Yesterday they had penetrated into Sherwood's 
Creek to a distance of about five miles, till they 
came nearly close under the high inland country, 
which is more open, and accessible. They had 
seen traces of elephants and of numbers of ante- 
lopes, but the negroes inform us that these animals, 
as also the hippopotamus, are first to be met with 
in great numbers higher up the river. 

July 13. All our baggage is sent on board the 
double boats, and the Dorothy is now like a desert- 
ed village. In the afternoon all were on their ap- 
pointed posts on board the small vessels, which 
make a kind of flotilla. Our two double boats 
formed the van, and were soon found to be excel- 
lent sailing vessels. The double boat and skiff of 
the Dorothy followed, and Captain Tuckey in his 
gig was in the rear. Galwey and myself were with 
him. Favoured by the sea-breeze w^e soon passed 
the bay, and in the evening found ourselves under 
the southern bank of the river. The weather, as 
usual, was clear and pleasant. Small floating 
islands, sometimes overgrown with waving shrubs 
of Cy perm papyrus^ passed by us. The river side 
was thickly covered with a variety of plants of in- 
teresting forms. W e heard the cries of parrots and 
the warbling of some small singing birds. The 
scene was solemn and beautiful. The nii{ht was 



300 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

approaching when we arrived on board the Congo, 
where we found our room very close, as we indeed 
had expected ; but our agreeable prospects made 
us forget this and every other inconvenience. — 
These prospects were only clouded by the gloom 
which some of us could not avoid betraying, when 
speaking of the exaggerated accounts of the river, 
and the forebodings they were apt to entertain of 
the voyage being speedily terminated. 

July 14. In the morning all wished to go on 
shore, which was at the distance of about tv*^o gun- 
shots only ; permission for this purpose was given 
after breakfast. The landing-place was in a small 
bay just opposite the ship, with an island covered 
with plants, and a Rhlzophora with bended branch- 
es. At the bottom of the bay was a sandy beach, 
with a small plain, in the middle of which a large 
Adansonia was growing, and higher up a thick lofty 
forest was discovered. To the right and along the 
shore the country was more open. A number of 
shrubs and trees, from their form and novelty, ex- 
cited admiration and surprise. Farther on the sur- 
face had been set on fire, which is the only method 
of making a way through the impenetrable thick- 
ets. After having walked about in all directions 
as far as the thickets and mangroves permitted, 
hunting for birds, insects, and plants, we sat down 
near the river to rest ourselves. The strand being 
now broader and more accessible in consequence 
of the ebb, we had an opportunity of discovering 
many new and interesting objects. The evening 
was approaching when we gave the signal for our 
returning on board. 

July 1 5. I was fully occupied all the day in lay- 
ing plants in paper, having very little time for ex- 
amination. I have already got three or four new 
genera, and two-thirds, 1 conceive, of all the plants 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 301 

tliat have been collected will probably turn out to 
be new species. The collection of* birds and in- 
sects is small. Some of the gentlemen are again 
on shore for a short time. 

,July 16. We went into the boats on another ex- 
cursion. Having passed along the shore up to 
Sherwood's Creek, and entered several of the in- 
numerable small inlets, we proceeded nearlj to Al- 
ligator's Creek, and then returned with the cur- 
rent. The river-side promises us a large collec- 
tion of plants, the vegetation being so luxuriant, 
that there are only a few places where a landing 
may be effected, either where the negroes coming 
down the river in their canoes encamp during the 
night, or where there lately has been fire in conse- 
quence of their encampment. The high thickets 
growing near the water consist chiefly of Pterocar- 
pus, Convolvulus, a new^ species of Hibiscus, related 
to tiliaceus, with scattered red and yellow flowers, 
Pandanus candelabrum (a little farther up) an Euge- 
nia, covered with flowers, and a vast number of 
shrubs and trees, round which are twisted a great 
variety of climbing plants, and among which are 
Quisqualis ebracteaius, and a plant resembling Schons- 
bcea, with brilliant purple-coloured flowers in bunch- 
es. Farther on, in the bay, we met with more uni- 
formity. Rhizophora covers the lower part of it, 
having bended and branched roots, on which some 
of the officers observed marks, that in their opinion 
determined the height of the flood tide to be about 
2' feet, but they are rather to be considered as in- 
dicating the rising of the river in a former season. 
A species of jJcrostichon is the only plant growing 
among this Rhizophora. 

A complete calm and the deep shade of the forest 
give to the contiguous places a dark and solemn 
appearance. We saw traces of buffaloes on the 

28 



302 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

sand of the shore. Of birds, we saw two species 
of the eagle, an Ardea alba, and Flatus anhinga, three 
Certhice, two Alcedines, two Fringillce, a large gray 
parrot and a paroquet. — The negroes come daily 
on board in great numbers, bringing refreshments, 
consisting chiefly of goats. As yet we have not 
met with any remarkable fruit, except that of Rha- 
phia, which I have seen but once. A journey to 
Sognio is daily spoken of, but the distance is about 
ten leagues, and all on board being very busy, it is 
consequently put off The Dorothy has at last ad- 
vanced a little higher up, but will scarcely reach 
Embomma. We have a great many negroes on 
board, who come under various pretexts, being, by 
their own account, all Mafooks, ail good pilots, &:c. 
The principal enticements, however, are our pro- 
visions and our brandy. 

July 17. I remained again on board all the day. 
Lockhart and Tudor went on shore. Lockhart had 
collected several new plants, which were all found 
within the limits of our small bay. 

July 18. Lockhart and myself went on shore in 
the bay, in order to discover what still might have 
l)een overlooked. We found a remarkable tree at 
the river-side {JJidyn. drupac. foL b-natisy We 
heard a shot from the Dorothy. The Mafook Senu, 
from Embomma, having been dismissed from the 
Congo, was received on board the Dorothy with a 
salute. The Mafook with his retinue have been 
constant visiters on board for a long time. His 
pretensions were not much attended to. He was, 
however, presented with a small boat, in which he 
might return, because the negroes, it was said, 
would laugh at him, if he returned without some 
present. The Captain resolved to proceed to Em- 
bomma in the double-boat before the Congo, hav- 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 30:5 

iiig there afliiirs to settle with the Mafook Senu, 
whic!i will take several days. 

July 19. We prepared ourselves to accompany 
the Captain, but the weather continuing calm, we 
were obliged to remain here all the day. 

July 20. V\e left Sherwood's Creek and the 
beautiful bay where the Congo had been at anchor, 
proceeding along the bank of the river, which pre- 
sented the most charming and varying scenery, and, 
after having passed Knox's island, we anchored 
between several low sandy creeks and small islands. 

July 21. Early in the morning we were under 
Knox's island. While the other gentlemen were 
filling the boats witli fishes in a few draughts, we 
were w alking about in the thickets. Our acquisi- 
tions this day were ; a palm with two sorts of 
leaves ; a Rhamnus^ which being too weak at the 
root to stand upright, was supported by high shoots; 
an jimomum ; a plant of the Liliaceous tribe; Rha- 
phia^ and many other plants. A large monkey was 
seen on the shore from the Congo. The Simia ce- 
phus was frequently brought tons by the inhabitants. 

July 22. We made a short excursion on the shore 
nearest to our anchorage, where it wore a moreva- 
rying aspect. A Rhaphia with brilliant flowers was 
seen here. In the evening the double-boat was or- 
dered to make sail. We bade farewell to the Congo 
with three cheers. Our accommodations were in 
this boat much better in every respect. Tudor, Gal- 
wey, myself, and the Captain, were on board. We 
sailed on briskly along the shore, though the water 
was shallow. We frequently came in contact with 
the shrubs that were spreading their various 
branches over the water. The ivine-palm waved 
its leaves above them. The parrots, flocking to- 
gether like crows, leave this side of the river, where 
they have been seeking their food in the day, and 



304 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

retire to the northern shore, where they remain dur- 
ing the night. The wind w^as dying away, and we 
were obliged to cross over to the opposite side of 
the river. We anchored under the first island, 
which is one of the many banks formed in the mid- 
dle of the river. The Captain offered me his boat 
for an excursion on shore the next morning. 

July 23. Being awaked early in the morning by 
the cries of the parrots, we went on shore on a low 
island (Mampenga.) I had not expected to find 
here any great variety in the vegetation. A num- 
ber of new objects, however, presented themselves 
every moment as I walked on. The island is the 
point of an extensive sand-bank formed in the river, 
and at the north side is almost joined to the main 
land. In the middle were low morasses, in which 
a number of different plants were growing, and 
among them two species o^ JVymphcea^ a Menyanthes 
indica^ and several others. They were almost all 
herbaceous. Tudor chased several water-fowl, 
but with little success. Traces of Hippopotami 
w ere seen every where in the sand. A singular 
species of Sterna and an Jllcedo were shot. The 
river here abounds with canoes, which come to this 
side to fish. About thirty new plants collected here, 
will fully occupy my time until we shall weigh an- 
chor in the evening. We proceed along the 
islands, several of which are overgrown with whole 
forests of the Cyper us papyrus. We are again near 
the main-land, which has a most beautiful appear- 
ance 

. . . . A great many wine-palms^ growing among 
the thickets, seem to indicate a populous country. 
A number of negroes walking about among the 
shrubs, call out to us as we go along. Behind the 
thicket is a village, but there is scarcely any pene- 
trable landing-place on the shore. We continued 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. S05 

our course along the north side, and anchored un- 
der Sangam Compenzi (Monkey's Island), and we 
are again preparing ourselv^es for another excur- 
sion on shore to-morrow at an early hour, and to 
renew, as it were, the exquisite pleasures of this 
day. 

July 24. We landed on the second range of 
the low sandy islands in the river, or Monkey's 
Islands (which name the inhabitants give to these 
islands, not to those of Maxwell). At low ebb 
they formed two ranges of banks, of which those 
parts which are above the water at high flood were 
thickly overgrown with a tall grass, and with scat- 
tered thickets of shrubby plants. One of these 
shrubs was a new genus^ and another a new species 
oi Limodorum. These plants and some Cyperoidece 
were the principal acquisitions of this day. I was 
running for a long time after several strand birds, 
but shot only a few of them. Galwey and Tudor 
were in another quarter. I waded to the island 
farthest to the south, and returned in a canoe. 
These islands are probably only inhabited periodi- 
cally, and must be partly inundated in the rainy sea- 
son. The fishing for oysters seems to be the main ob- 
ject of the negroes who live here. Large heaps of 
the shells of a Mya lay spread all over the shore, 
and a great quantity of dried and half-roasted oy- 
sters were hanging under the straw huts. We 
have not yet seen any regular built hut, but only 
thatched roofs, supported by four poles. A ^ew 
women only were to be seen. We were proceed- 
ing to the northern woody side of the river, when 
we observed the foretop-sail hoisted on the boat. 
Innumerable canoes are continually passing up- 
wards and dounwards. The object of some, 
that of fishing; of others, that of drawing palm- 
wine from the trees. 

The breeze sets in to-day somewhat early, or 



306 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

about eleven o'clock, but, as usual, is scanty. It 
generally begins first to blow fresh after it is dark, 
when we are obliged of course to remain at anchor. 
We proceeded at a slow rate along the coast. 
Our black pilot steered between the two islands to 
the northward (where the boats touched the very 
bottom) and into the great channel along Monkey 
Island. The picturesque and varied scenes occa- 
sioned by the thickets and forests have now disap- 
peared. We have now passed the mangrove coun- 
try, and see only thickets of Hibiscus near the wa- 
ter, with some solitary trees. To the right the 
low land is thickly overgrown with high grass like 
a corn-field. No forests are now visible, unless 
that name should be given to vast ranges of the 
Cyperus papyrus^ which with their lofty and waving 
tops present a singular appearance. Farther up 
some scattered Hyphcsne palms are still visible. 
The appearance which these two plants give to 
the whole country strongly reminds me of the 
drawings of Egyptian landscapes. The palms as 
we proceed increase in number, forming groupes, 
and higher up even whole forests. Great numbers 
of the natives make their appearance on the shore, 
walking about in the grass between the thickets. 
We are just by the village of Maliba, whose name 
is derived from its palms. When it grew dark we 
anchored a little higher up, a few fathoms from the 
shore. A black cloud for the first time made its 
appearance in the northern horizon. The negroes 
told us that it was the prognostic of the approach- 
ing rainy season. While I am writing this at our 
anchorage I hear the evening music of the grass- 
hoppers. 

July 25. A gentle breeze carried us about two 
miles higher up, where we anchored near the 
shore in a small bay. The natives welcomed us. 
A water-snake about four feet in length was caught 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 307 

in the cabin of the Captain. He must have swam 
on board during the night. For the first time we 
saw here the bank of the river rising perpendicu- 
larly about four feet, and consisting of indurated 
clay. The surface was thickly overgrown with 
grass ; but as the soil consisted of a hardened clay, 
it was not so high as usual. Groves and forests of 
Hyphcene^ mingled with some Mansonice^ were the 
only kinds of trees that occurred. The village 
Condo Tjongo was at a short distance. It consisted 
of huts covered with neat mats, made of grass or 
straw, and supported by poles. We walked about 
an hour in the high grass and between the trees, 
on which calabashes were hanging to receive the 
juice wliich constitutes the palm-wine. I shot a 
large species of Corviis and some small pigeons, of 
which a great number were cooing in the trees. 
We saw numerous traces of buffaloes, and were 
told by the natives that they had seen a whole herd 
of these animals early in the morning. The vege- 
tation here is without variety. A gentle breeze 
carried us somewhat higher up the river. We 
crossed the channel, and passed to the shore on the 
right, near Farquhar's Island. 

I had now the opportunity of going on shore for 
a few minutes. Here at length, for the first time, 
some traces of cultivation were seen. A consider- 
able extent of land was planted with maize, and 
some tobacco, both of which were now about one 
foot higli. I collected two new plants, and some 
specimens of a singular tree with large leaves. We 
proceeded along tbe island, which seemed to be 
well cultivated and very populous. At a distance 
an hippopotamus was seen with his head above the 
water. The land on both sides of the river is 
again quite level and sandy, overgrown with high 
grass, and in some places with Cyperus papyrus. 



308 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOIIRNAL. 

An old woman, a relation of Simons, came oh 
board, accompanied bj her grand-daughter, a lit- 
tle black Venus, the sight of whom kindled an 
amorous flame in the breasts of several of our 
gentlemen. Some tempting offers were made to 
her beforehand, and Embomma appointed as the 
place of meeting. A canoe, in which was the son 
of Mafook Senu, was upset. He gave a specimen 
of his skill in swimming bj diving from under it. 
We passed Rough Point, and came within sight of 
the high country on both sides the river. To the 
left were some rounded hills, and behind them a 
ridge of mountains, with a pointed pillar on the 
highest summit, which is called Taddi Enzazzi^ or 
the rock of lightning. These hills are almost 
naked, and do not therefore promise much in the 
way of botany, in comparison with the lower parts 
of the river side. To the right we observed a 
large projecting point terminated by a rock (Fe- 
tishe rock) resembling a mass of ruins, but not 
high. We crossed the channel and anchored near 
the shore to the right. On the north side, and at a 
short distance, is Coyman's Point, where three 
channels of the river meet together. We shall 
probably reach Embomma to-morrow. The whole 
appearance of the river, its numerous sand-banks, 
low shore, inconsiderable current, narrow channel, 
seem but little to justify its extravagant fame. Its 
sources cannot be farther inland than those of Se- 
negal and Gambia. 

Though we were at the distance of four or five 
miles from Fetis^he rock, the Captain was desirous 
of sailing dowu'to it. Our pilots entertained some 
fears of passing through the whirlpools, which, 
however, we found to be nothing more than the 
main stream of the river running with a strong 
current. We had no sooner landed on the rock 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 309 

than we observed two hippopotami, at which un- 
luckily we were not prepared for firing. Tudor 
however fired a random shot near the head of one 
of them. The rock is steep, and difficult of as- 
cent. Its lower part was overgrown with trees of 
various kinds. Its conical shape gave us an op- 
portunity of discovering its structure. It consists 
of a coarse-grained granite. Large pieces of feld- 
spar occur in several places, and at the extremity 
of a low flat point some of them are not less than 
from one to two hundred feet in circumference. 
The towering cliffs of Fetishe rock, the new and 
varied vegetation on its sides, and the extensive 
view of the river which it commands, presented a 
magnificent scene. This rock is the terminating 
point of the high mountainous land which is seen 
to extend into the interior in undulating ranges of 
blue mountains, two or three ridges one behind the 
other. Beyond the ficreat sandy and grassy islands 
in the river, scattered palms are seen in the hori- 
zon, appearing as if they were growing in the 
water. The high land rising from the banks of 
the river would form interesting landscapes, if it 
was not quite naked. Some scattered Adansonice^ 
stripped of their leaves, were almost the only 
trees that were visible. A few minutes only were 
allowed to me for examining the rich vegetation of 
the Fetishe rocks. The steep clifTs and the im- 
penetrable thickets of shrubs, climbers, and lofty 
trees, limited my acquisitions to a most superb 
climber {Polyan. monog), a Limodorum^ and a Lili- 
aceous plant, the thick fibrous stalks of which (with- 
out leaves) are used by the natives for making 
ropes. The sea-breeze set in late as usual. We 
passed several villages. 

We are now under the rounded mountains, of 
which Taddi Enzazzi is the highest; perhaps it 

29 



310 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

may be from a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. 
Thej seem to be naked, with the exception of 
some solitary trees and dry grass. Groupes of the 
Maba palm are seen in small valleys between the 
hills, and shrubs of a Mimosa are common at the 
river side. We arrived soon at the market-place 
of Embomma, where a number of negroes had as- 
sembled. The Captain's intention was to go to the 
banza this evening, but when the Mafook came on 
board and promised to accompany him to the 
King's residence the following morning, the jour- 
ney was put off 

July 27. The negroes intruded themselves upon 
us before we had left our beds. I went into a boat 
in order to visit Molineaux's island, which at the 
river-side consists of a steep rounded rock. A 
patch which had been set on fire opened a way 
down to the more level parts. Here I found several 
new and brilliant plants, and lofty trees with up- 
right leaves, which 1 had not seen before.v Impe- 
netrable thickets obstructed our farther progress. 
We made some attempts from the boat to ascend 
the steep hill. The climbers and creepers hang- 
ing down its sides resembled worked tapestry. The 
ground was covered with Ipomcece, one with white 
and another with violet flowers. The rock con- 
sists of blocks of quartz. I was called back on 
board just when I was taking a view of the sur- 
rounding scenery. In the evening we arrived at 
the banza, and dropped anchor near the shore, 
which was level, and covered with grass. The re- 
sidence of the king is on the other side of the 
hill. The river is already narrow, and is perhaps 

not larger than the bay of St The land 

to the left rises gently, and forms a long ridge, bet- 
ter covered with wood than the lower parts, and 
behind it is seen a range of undulating mountains. A 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 3 1 1 

salute was fired, and soon after a palanquin made 
its appearance, having been sent by the king to 
the Captain, who however decHned going on shore 
till the following morning. 

July 28. This day was fixed upon for the cere- 
monious procession to the royal residence. Early 
in the morning we w ere already teazed w ith visits 
from Mafooks and Princes by dozens. The Cap- 
tain preferred to walk the greatest part of the 
way. Some marines followed us as a guard, and 
w^e ourselves, dressed in borrowed coats, formed 
the van. Our way led over a grassy plain, varied 
by cultivated patches of maize, different kinds of 
pulse, and cassava, resembling asparagus as to 

Single trees were scattered around. The 

grass w as almost dry. A path leads over the rising 
ground (which consists of clay) up to a hill, which 
commands an excellent view of the river winding 
behind a high island, and re-appearing beyond it. 
The Captain having got into the palanquin, which 
was constructed after the ancient Portuguese 
fashion, and the party disposing itself into a sort 
of processional order, and being put in motion, 
which, contrary to European custom, is here a 
lull gallop, we soon arrived in the royal city, which 
did not appear to us a very large one. With its si- 
tuation, however, and neatness, we were more sa- 
tisfied. On an eminence, among palms and Bom- 
bax^ Mansonia^ and Ficus^ and several other trees, 
the straw huts were scattered about, all of them 
surrounded by fences, near which young trees had 
been carefully planted. We halted by a large old 
tree, under whose sacred Vjranches the meetings of 
the elders are held, and all public business trans- 
acted. After some time had elapsed, we were in- 
vited to proceed to the residence of his Majesty, 
which is composed of several huts ranged within a 



312 PROFESSOi SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

small enclosure. The Captain was seated on air 
elevated place with a large umbrella over his head, 
and we took our seats around him. The King^ 
dressed out, as if going to a masquerade, in 
drawers and a cloak of silk, and boots of marro- 
quin, with a large cap on his head, resembling 
that of a grenadier, adorned with flowers, made 
his appearance, and took his seat near the Cap- 
tain. Next behind us were his counsellors, sur- 
rounded by a great assemblage of people. Mr. 
Simons, in an ancient court-dress, with a sailor's 
hat on his head, had here the weighty charge of 
being the interpreter, and had told us the preced- 
ing evening that great doubts were entertained as 
to the real object of our visit, and that, since we 
did not profess to trade, it could be attributed to 
nothing else than a hostile intention. The Captain 
ordered him briefly to explain the object of the 
expedition ; but this they could not at all compre^ 
bend. When any thing occurred in the conversa- 
tion that struck them, one of the nobles rose, and 
with attitudes resembling those of a fugle-man, 
gave the signal for the sacala ; on which all smote 
themselves on their breasts with an express^ion of 

As a first present a cask of brandy was brought 
forward. This they comprehended well enough ; 
and having poured it into a large washing bowl, 
they fought among themselves for the nectar. The 
king and his ministers soon after went away, and 
we were shortly invited into a spacious straw hut, 
which, like all the rest, could not be said to be en- 
cumbered with too much furniture. We observed 
in it, however, a number of small fetishes. Here 
we were entertained with a dish of boiled fowl ^nd 
with palm wine in mugs of English manufacture. 
The sailors dined after us. We took a walk in the 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 31-3: 

town, and were allowed to enter into every enclo- 
sure. Tudor and Galwey found here the daughter 
of the Macage of Loomba, which is a market- 
place, where they had been the day before, and 
made some bargains in favour of their other friends. 
The women are considered in the light of merchan- 
dise ; and a husband generally takes care to make 
an European pay dear for his bargain. If any of 
his countrymen, however, should violate his wife 
without his knowledge, he is permitted to put him 
to death ; but every one most readily will lend his 
wife to his neighbour for a very trifling considera- 
tion. Some of our gentlemen had thoughts of 
hiring a house ; but the distance from the vessel 
was considered to be too great, and the Captain 
did not by any means approve of it. 

A long deliberation had taken place among the 
King's advisers ; after which we again assembled. 
The Captain repeated what he had said before. 
One of the sons of the King was the person who 
showed most uneasiness, distrust, and coldness 
during the whole deliberation. At length, an old 
man, uncle of the King, who commonly communi- 
cates the resolutions of the assembly, and Avho had 
voted with Simons in our favour (Simons had been 
called upon by them to take the oath), broke leaf 
which is the symbol of peace and amity, with the 
Captain ; implying, that they believed that he had 
come on friendly purposes, kc. The most interest- 
ing personage was the father of Simons. He had 
given his son in charge to a trading slave captain, 
of Liverpool, in order to be educated in England : 
but instead of this, the boy had been sold by this 
captain in the West Indies, where he had suffered 
many hardships : from which he escaped by getting 
on board a King's ship, from which he was by mere 
accident sent on board the Congo, The father, 



3J4 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

after waiting for his return eleven years, during 
which time he had made many inquiries for him in 
vain, had now unexpectedly got intelligence of his 
being with us, and came on board the first evening 
of our arrival near Loomba. His excessive joy, 
the ardour with which he hugged his son in his 
arms, proved that even among this people nature 
is awake to tender emotions. As a token of grati- 
tude he offered to the Captain a present of nine 
slaves. Simons was here an important personage, 
was called Mafook, carried in a palanquin, &;c. 

In the midst of this business I could only give a 
hasty glance at the treasures which surrounded 
me ; among which, however, I observed a Cleroden- 
drum^ with flowers of a scarlet colour ; but I hope 
that none of them will elude my researches, as 
soon as I shall be at liberty to dispose of my time. 
The evening was again noisy, as a number of black 
gentlemen had come on board. They have al- 
ready nearly exhausted our store of spirits. To- 
morrow our pilots, whose names are Gim, Brown, 
and Tati Maxwell^ are to bring the Congo up to 
this place. 

July 29. In the morning I set out for the small 
creek, accompanied by four boys and a servant : 
here I shot several water-birds. The shore was 
overgrown with a thick sod covered with a species 
of Jussieua, and higher up with a thick grass, 
chiefly consisting of Ischcemum. I made an excur- 
sion on the shore to the right, which is a peninsula 
Jiilmost surrounded by water, being connected with 
the main land only by a small chain of rocks in 
the middle. Cultivated patches are seen here and 
there, with free access to a considerable distance. 
Lofty Hyphcene^ a Bombax pentandr. trunco spinoso. 
and a great many new shrubs and other plants, 
are scattered about. We penetrated through the 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 315 

thickets up to the mountain which occupies the 
middle of the peninsula. Near the summit we 
saw a superb tree with eatable fruit resembling 

dry The inhabitants seemed to have 

no knowledge of its being an esculent fruit, but 
after I had given the example, they partook of it 
readily. A tree of Pandanus caught my attention. 

The prospect from the summit was grand, com- 
prehending the windings of the river, its islands, 
the points of its shores up to Taddi Moenga and 
Bamba, the eastern Boka de Embomma, the west- 
ern Boka de Embomma, which is overgrown with 
wood, Ka^ti, which is the third island above Loom- 
ba, with a rounded mountain in its middle. Boka 
Embomma consists of a half decomposed gneiss, 
which occurs in large projecting blocks. 

The Captain had pitched his tent to-day. Frank 
Clark came to inform him that his Majesty had sent 
one of his daughters to Clark's wife, and that he 
might send for her. I took a walk to the town, 
chiefly with an intention of seeing Galwey and 
Tudor in their habitations. On entering the en- 
closure of the King's residence we found him sit- 
ting amidst a number of children, and distributing 
food among them. They were all boys. Having 
stayed there a while, during which I was consider- 
ed as the Ambassador of the Captain, a young girl, 
naked, as all the others were, presented herself 
kneeling at the entrance. I took her hand, when 
unexpectedly N'Kenge, the Prince of Embomma, 
offered her in a very polite manner as a present to 
the Captain. She was very much alarmed ; and 
on being brought into the Captain's tent, which 
was lighted by lamps, she ran under the bedstead. 
The Captain seemed not much pleased with this 
obtruded civility. 



31^ PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL, 

July 30. Early in the morning I went out with 
Hodder, and proceeded towards the upper end of 
the creek ; and here I shot a number of birds. Af- 
ter having been on shore on the island Boka, I pur- 
sued my course up the creek to a bank in the mid- 
dle, and passing the villages Thimanga and Vinda, 
I followed the shore until I arrived at Tinyanga, a 
village belonging to the brother of the king. He 
was sitting on a mat, surrounded by his grandees 
and armed young men. The rock above the vil- 
lage is steep, with two or three springs, and cover- 
ed with an interesting vegetation. We w ent to the 
village of Frank Clark, who accompanied us, and 
invited me into his house. One of the Captain's 
people had been sent to fetch a cow, which was 
promised him by the king. In assisting to catch 
this half-wild beast, my foot was entangled in the 
rope which was fastened to her, and with which she 
was running away. I was thus placed all at once 
in an awkward situation ; it might have been still 
worse if the rope had not broken. I was brought 
to the king's house almost senseless, except to ex- 
quisite pain. From thence 1 was removed on board 
in a kind of litter. I was confined to the cabin till 
the afternoon of the following day, when, with the 
assistance of another person, I was enabled to limp 
on shore, and to collect such plants as I might have 
overlooked on my former excursions. 

Gun brought us the agreeable news that the 
Congo had already passed Taddi Moenga. The 
Dorothy is at Tall Trees. They say they have 
killed an alligator. Frank, according to a promise 
given long ago, brought on board a weeping girl 
last night, who was soon followed by another. To- 
day Tudor and Galwey have removed their light 
huts to the tent of the Captain, which is already 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 317 

called the Captain's village by the inhabitants. A 
village means with them a pater-familias and his 
private dependants. The village of the king (Banza 
Embomma) is the oidy village where several fami- 
lies have sufficient land capable of cultivation in 
the neighbourhood, and to enable them to live to- 
gether. The land is cultivated in patches only, 
and the labour is performed by the women, whom 
we saw frequently in the fields, carrying with them 
their children and baskets of provisions, the daugh- 
ters of the king as well as others. The oidy plants 
we observed to be cultivated were cassava in small 
quantity, and maize, planted chiefly along the river 
side, probably because the air there is more humid. 
The cotton shrub was growing wild in the plains. 
Pisangs were frequently brought from the market 
of Loomba, though none were seen in this neigh- 
bourhood. They were said to grow plentifully 
higher up the river on the opposite side, as also 
oranges and other fruits. The order of precedency 
is : Tjenu, or the king, the princes Malibere, Mam- 
bous, Macaya, Mafook. The inhabitants are ad- 
dicted to some superstitions with respect to food ; 
as, for instance, to abstain from eating eggs and 
milk. A Fetish man is not allowed music at his 
meals, except when he has not partaken of Leimha? 
July 31. My foot being much better, I was en- 
abled to take a short walk on the plain. I caused 
a pit to be dug in order to ascertain the tempera- 
ture of the earth, but the clay which here every 
where is predominant, and hard as stone, did not 
permit a deeper pit to be dug than three feet, 
which proved insufficient. The temperature how- 
ever appeared to be 80^ The weather, which 
continues cloudy and unsettled, does not allow of 
any remarks on the dew, and in general makes all 
observations on the climate in this season less in- 

30 



318 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

teres ting. The temperature to-day, before the set- 
ting in of the sea-breeze, is about 77°, and in the 
tent of the Captain, 88°. The grandfather of Si- 
mons is on board. Hodder is sent with orders for 
the Congo. 

August 1. In company with Galwey and Tudor 
I visited our creek again in the morning. We 
passed through floating Jussieuce and Ipomcece, We 

shot a number of birds of a species of , 

which is here very common. We proceeded up- 
wards to the sand-bank, which Galwey and Tudor 
yesterday had found to be passable in a flat-bot- 
tomed boat. It was overgrown with floating grass, 
through which we could not pass but with great 
difficulty and labour ; but in return, the most beau- 
tiful scenes presented themselves on the other 
side. ........ 

The river runs between rounded mountains, the 
higher parts of which are naked, but the lower 
parts along the river-side are partly covered with 
a luxuriant vegetation. The mountains incline to- 
wards the north, with their precipices facing the 
south, which is indeed evident by the different 
appearance of both sides of the river. The decli- 
vity is in some places vertical. The Congo with 
the two double-boats arrived in the evening and 
anchored near the opposite shore. To-morrow 
we shall take leave of the Tjenu. 

August 2. We went to the banza with the offi- 
cers to take our leave. In the meantime Lock- 
hart made an excursion to the left between the 
plain and the hills, and I took the opposite side^ 
where I again met with the superb Brownea, The 
visit was unceremonious, and not very hospitable. 
His Majesty did not so much as offer the Captain 
a mug of palm-wine. His dress was that usually 
worn by the natives. He was seated near hie 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 31 g 

house, opposite the bench of the officers, surround- 
ed by about fifty negroes. I visited their burying 
place, where a very deep grave had been dug for 
a woman who had just died, and I passed by her 
house, where half a dozen w omen were howling 
terribly. They are said to repeat this mode of 
showing their grief for several days, keeping up 
the same kind of concert for about an hour each 
day. I returned in company with my friend Frank 
Clark (who is the best of all the members of the 
Royal Family), to the precipices, by the way of 
Tihenyanga. The rocks consist of a completely 
decomposed quartz, and granular red masses. In 
some places water is continually pouring forth as 
from springs. The temperature under the shade 
of the thickets is down to 70°, probably in conse- 
quence of the evaporation. I found several new 
plants, among which was a shrub bearing berries, 
of which I am uncertain whether it be cultivated, 
but I saw it growing wild all around. 1 met Lock- 
fiart, who had collected several beautiful plants. 
Hawkey and Mr. Kerrow returned to the village 
on a visit to the ladies. Tjenu offered another 
daughter to the Captain in addition to the first- 
mentioned, who was better looking than the for- 
mer. 1 was occupied with laying in plants till late 
in the evening. 

Augusts. Yesterday the village of the Captain 
was removed in about the same space of time as 
that which had been requisite for its erection. To- 
day, at daybreak, the schooner proceeded, with 
the assistance of oars, along Boka de Embomma, 
and anchored nearly opposite to the middle of it, 
where the rock was overgrown with thickets of 
shrubby plants. An alligator was seen swira^ning 
near the shore. Lofty trees overshadow the steep 
^ides of the rock, which rises to the height of fouc 



320 PROFESSOR SIMITH'S JOURNAL. 

or five hundred feet. Its upper parts are almost 
naked. I was ordered on board the Congo, in con- 
sequence of some misunderstanding between Tu- 
dor and Cranch, relating to the ammunition belong- 
ing to the latter, and of some irregularity which 
had taken place with respect to the boats. 

August 4. Accompanied the Captain to the rock 
Taddi Mansoni on the opposite side. Plains and 
deep valleys vary with hills, which sometimes ter- 
minate in peaks and grotesque cliffs. Groupes of 
the Mimosa spinosa and some cultivated patches 
were scattered about. We saw in our w ay the 
skeleton of a hippopotamus. We measured a large 
Adamonia^ which at two or three feet above the 
root was found to be forty-two feet in circumfer- 
ence. The river is now no longer divided into se- 
veral channels, but continues to be free from islands 
to a considerable distance. Its breadth here I cal- 
culated to be about the same as that of Drammen 
(in Norway) at the bridge. I mounted the hill, 
whose base consists of a yellow mica-slate, which 
continually decreases in approaching the summit, 
where the formation is almost entirely quartz. 
Among the trees we found lying on the ground se- 
veral pieces of wood, w hich was called lignum vitm 
by our carpenters. It is extremely hard, but 1 
could not ascertain what it is. A Maba palm was 
cut down, which I examined. We found several 
curious insects. Our situation, as we are walking 
here under groupes of trees of various kinds, would 
be envied by many of our friends. We saw mon- 
keys running to and fro on the branches of the trees 
{Simla cephus)^ and several birds, among which was 
a spotted Alcedo, Divine service was performed 
on deck, where we had an agreeable temperature. 
W^e observed on a stnall bank of mud, situated a 



PROFESSOR SMH'H'S JOURNAL. 321 

lew fathoms only from our anchorage, that the flood 
tide rose ahout ten inches. 

August 5. In our (lat-bottomed boats we arrived 
at Tchinsala, and run deep in the mud. We ob- 
served the Congo proceeding upwards. Tlie Cap- 
tain was just gone on board the Congo, and brought 
her up to the height of Tchinsala on the opposite 
side of the river, where she anchored near the end 
of the island Kinyangala. The Captain, finding 
that she only retarded our progress, resolved to 
leave her in this place. The evening was spent in 
arranging for our further progress in the double- 
boats. Fitzmaurice and Hawkey went on board 
the schooner. Cranch was at first resolved, after 
long deliberation, to remain with the Congo, but 
changed his mind on hearing that the third part of 
the apparatus should be delivered up to us. All 
left collections to be conveyed to the Dorothy. I 
left all my dry plants and a box full of seeds. 

August 6. I had landed for a moment on Tchin- 
sala, but a shot called me immediately back again. 
Our flotilla was already under sail at one o'clock.. 
The longboat of the ship is to go as far as Benda. 
We crossed the river several times according to 
the strength of the current. The mountains come 
down to the river, and in many places contract its 
channel to scarcely half a mile. They are round- 
ed, and commonly sloping hills with narrow and 
short valleys between them. They are overgrown 
with dry grass, but otherwise entirely naked. The 
south-side had at first more level ground, with rising 
blocks of slate dispersed over its surface. At Vin- 
da, a small plain, the mountain along the northern 
bank is very steep, the declivity about forty-five 
degrees, and sometimes almost vertical, out of 
Mhich were projected several rocky points. It is 
only near the high grass on the banks of the river 



322 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

and in the valleys that trees of luxuriant growth are 
to be seen. On the small plains at the heads o( 
rreeks we observed some villages amidst palms of 
HyphoEne^ which were also seen scattered about 
higher up the sides of the mountains. The banks, 
with their precipitous cliffs of slate, overgrown with 
a hanging green tapestry of climbers, and surmount- 
ed with plants and trees of various kinds, among 
which is a high and always naked Mansonia^ pre- 
sent indeed a picturesque view, but nothing yet 
inspires the notion of an extraordinary grand river. 
We anchored above three islands (Tanyandd),, on 
the northern bank, near where it is studded with 
high rocks. One of these was said to be used for 
the same purposes as the Tarpeian rock of old, 
from which criminals, as, for instance, seducers of 
the wives of the King, &;c. are sometimes precipi- 
tated. 

August 7. In the morning we found ourselves 
between Gambia islands. We saw several birds. 
The mountains consist every where of mica-slate. 
These picturesque islands are very much visited by 
hippopotami. At noon a gentle breeze carried us 
a little higher up. The river at Fiddler's Elbow is 
again somewhat more expanded. In its middle 
are some rocks, with scattered trees. The river 
turns northward, and is contracted by the moun- 
tains. These are here somewhat higher up intern 
sected by narrow valleys. They are all of the 
same mica-slate formation, inclining in all direc- 
tions, but commonly towards the west. The incli- 
nation is at half an angle (qu. 45°). We observed 
half-a-dozen monkeys, from three to four feet in 
length, on a hill near the southern bank. The 
breeze seems to die away as we pass between the 
mountains. We anchored on the southern bank. 
The natives of Benda begin already to talk of the 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 323 

fall of Yellala, of which, they tell us, we may hear 
the roar. At one time we could only approach this 
cataract hy a journey by land, or by double-boats 
composed of canoes, &c. The river is here broad, 
resembling the Scotch lakes. 

August 18, I went on shore up a narrow valley, 
opposite to us, which, as is usual, forms at its lower 
end a small plain, covered with grass, and higher 
up a narrow, deep ravine, the sides of which are 
covered with trees. Galwey and myself ascended 
the hill just before us. It consists of mica-slate. 

We had only a confined view of the river, the 
prospect being obstructed by the mountains, which 
appeared somewhat higher to the east. The river 
runs in a winding course between them. They 
form columns rounded at the top with fragments of 
quartz, which sometimes form veins and beds in the 
slate. We found here some scattered shrubs of 
Eugenia^ and two or three species of grass. We 
rowed up opposite Congo Binda, which is situated 
at some distance inland, and high upon the platform 
of a mountain. We went on shore and followed a 
rugged ravine, whose sides consist of a compact 

mica-slate We observed the traces 

and excrements of several kinds of animals ; chiefly, 
however, antelopes ; but we did not get a sight of 
any of them. I walked over some flatly-rounded 
rugged hills, on which only a few shrubs were grow- 
hig. I attempted in vain to get a view of the wind- 
ings of the river as far up as the cataract. The 
mountains are of the same form, and are seen to a 
great distance, undulating with sloping declivities, 
and frequently intersected by deep ravines. The 
level parts are luxuriant, but the sides and tops of 
the mountains are naked. I descended the ravine 
through climbers and shrubby plants, almost all of 
which left me in uncertainty ns to their genus, and 



324 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

regretting, as usual, our coming here so late in the 
year. I followed another ravine, intersected with 
numerous narrow but deep holes, which generally 
makes the ravines very difficult to walk in. I met 
Lockhart amidst a thicket, in which were several 
lofty trees, but almost all of them were in fruit. — 
We discovered an ArumfoUis S-nat, dichotomis ; ,the 
root of which we afterwards boiled, and found to 
be eatable. We returned in the dark quite loaded. 

During our whole excursion we did not meet with 
any animal, a few pigeons and small birds except- 
ed, but we saw a great many traces of hippopotami 
on the shore. Simons was sent to the Tjenu of 
Benda, in order to procure some men who were 
acquainted with the country higher up. His ac- 
count of Benda would seem to prove that the in- 
habitants have some intercourse with the Portu- 
guese. He was ceremoniously received. 

August 9. We sailed somewhat higher up. I 
passed over to the north side of the river. The ve- 
getation is without variety, and the steep hills over- 
grown with grass, in which was only found growing 
an Euphorbia. I fired three shots at an alligator, 
in the evening it was resolved that we should go 
to Banza Nokki, the residence of a Tjenu, by the 
way of Condo Sonjo. The north side is generally 
called Benda. 

August 10. Simons was despatched to announce 
the intended visit of the Captain. Early in the 
morning we set out on our journey, and proceeded 
over the hills and across the small plain, where we 
had been two days before. The slate formation 
here ceases. The rounded mountains on the other 
side rise to a greater height, with projecting cliffs 
of a more cubical form. The transition is formed 
by a compact mica-slate with a large proportion of 
feldspar. The .... of the mica moun- 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 32/5 

tains perhaps sienite. It is granular 

as granite, and composed of quartz, feldspar, and a 
third metallic substance. Blocks of rock, which 
we have often met with before, were scattered 
about, but they occurred now in greater number, 
and in masses of a cubical form. We passed two 
or three small villages, situated between the moun- 
tains. A spot planted with Pisangs was seen iiom 
amidst the palms. A few moments afterwards we 
arrived at a rivulet. Springs, they tell us, are here 
very common. This circumstance also proves a 
new formation of the mountains. These small vil- 
lages and cultivated patches, surrounded by moun- 
tains of more grotesque form than those hitherto 
seen, and the luxuriant vegetation, afford us a new 
and beautiful view. The straw huts have here 
rounded roofs. At eleven o'clock, after a march of 
six or seven hours, we reached the summit of those 
mountains, which appeared to be the highest within 
our view. On a small plain the ground had been 
cleared and planted with Ficus religiosa. 

Here is the market-place of the inhabitants of 
the banza, and close by is the village of the 
Tjenu. In passing between the huts we observed 
poppies, cabbages and other vegetables. Having 
observed the height of the mercury in the baro- 
meter, we found, according to the calculations of 
Leslie, that the elevation was about 1450 feet, 
which, generally speaking, may be considered as 
the greatest elevation of the highest ridges of 
mountains in these parts. 

The manner in which we were received by the 
Tjenu had more of stateliness, but also more of 
savage manners, than that in which we were re- 
ceived at Embomma. A silken hanging served to 
cover one side of the hut, in which the Tjenu was 
discovered; he was dressed in a red cloak, with a 

31 



326 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

cap on his head resembling that of a grenadier, 
and adorned with feathers. His two ministers 
were on each side of him, and seemed to be 
eunuchs. A httle palm-wine was the only refresh- 
ment he offered to us. The conversation was short. 
The Captain only wished to have some guides. A 
smile was the only answer. The ministers ran se- 
veral times to the fence and back again, cry- 
ing out some words expressive of the king's under- 
standing us. Tatti, a good-looking man, the 
father of Simons, invited and entertained us. The 
temperature of a spring down in a small plain we 
found to be 73°. Following a rugged path I walk- 
ed down the valley and passed over another ri- 
vulet. 

August 1 1. The interesting scenes that now sur- 
round us demanding a more close examination, I 
proceeded, in company with Tudor and Lockhart, 
to the lower end of the valley, over patches plant- 
ed with cassava, following the course of the rivulet. 
In our way we met with thickets composed of 
shrubs and trees, of which many were entirely 
new to us. The women screamed out on seeing 
us, but the taste of our brandy had soon made 
them less shy. Yesterday we were constantly fol- 
lowed by a number of people, chiefly boys. They 
said they had never seen white men before. We 
ascended some of the high rocks, but were unable 
to climb up the highest of them, which is of a co- 
nical form. They are all of the same formation. 
We rested ourselves at the source of the rivulet. 
Its temperature was 71°. Its coldness is probably 
to be attributed to the evaporation. I missed 
Lockhart, who came down a long while after 
me. 

August 1 2. The forenoon was spent in laying in 
plants. The Captain bought a slave of the Maur 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 327 

dingo tribe, that is said to live high up inland. 
Their language is somewhat different from that of 
the Congo language. In the afternoon I followed 
the Captain up the hills towards the point, in order 
to observe the winding course of the river, which 
is now contracted within a narrower channel, by 
projecting points. The conical mountain of Ycl- 
lala was just before us. A projecting bank of 
rocks is seen on both sides the river, which is not 
passable even by canoes. The country appears 
equally barren higher up, and not hkely to enable 
us to procure sufficient provisions on a journey by 
land, which must now be resolved upon, nor are 
any here to be bought. The population is scanty ; 
only a few^ scattered small villages, situated on the 
hills, are discovered amidst some groupes of trees. 
The natives are not willing to part with their com- 
modities, except at extravagant prices. They 
crowd daily around ihe vessels with commodities 
for sale, but all we have been able to get are only a 
few fowls, some eggs, and a single sheep. Their 
knowledge of the country is very limited. They 
are pretty uniform in asserting that the cataract of 
Yellala is a considerable one, and that above it the 
river is divided. 

August 13. We remained in order to make some 
observations with the barometer, the oscillations of 
which nearly correspond with those observed at 
the Canaries. Last night an uncommonly strong 
breeze set in. In the morning we made a short 
excursion on shore. The Captain went in a boat 
towards the conical hill of Yellala, but he found 
the river here to be impassable. A journey by 
land of four days to Yellala w as therefore resolved 
upon, in order that, after having examined this 
cataract, we might take such further measures as 
should appear to be adviseable. 



328 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAI.. 

August 14. We set out to the number of aboM 
thirty, and passed across the river to a small sandy 
beach, terminated by sand-hills, on which the hip- 
popotami commonly dwell when on shore. A steep 
ascent led to a village. Having gained the plat- 
form, we found the declivity on the other side pre- 
cipitous, but no trace of mica slate in the forma- 
tion. -- The mountains here 

consist of compact feldspar, and resemble those 
at Nokki. On reaching the high land, the coun- 
try assumed its usual appearance, which resembles 
very much that of old orchards, composed of stunt- 
ed Annonas, and three other sorts of trees. Hav- 
ing soon after reached the hill on which the banza 
stands, and passed through the lofty palms and 
Adansoniae in which the village i& buried, a view of 
the river opened all at oi^ce upon us, and we dis- 
covered the celebrated fall of Yellala, at a dis- 
tance of about a mile and a half But how much 
were we disappointed in our expectations on see- 
ing a pond of water only, with a small fall of a few 
hundred yards ! We descended the steep barren 
hill, and arrived at the fall. The rocks on both 
sides of the river were precipitous. The mica 
slate is slightly undulating, and abounds with veins 
of quartz and compact feldspar. This formation 
of the rocks may possibly have very much weak- 
ened the force of the waters of the river. The 
inclination is half an angle (qu. 45°) in the same 
direction as the course of the water, and the de- 
clivities are opposite to it. I descended some of 
these declivities to the depth where they are wash- 
ed, by the water of the river in the rainy season, 
and found a great number of rounded excavations. 
In the middle of the fall is an islet at the distance 
of about a short stone-throw from the shore. The 
river above Yellala winds between two projecting 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 32,9 

points in a northerly direction. On both sides the 
river, rocky hills, intersected by ravines, are visi- 
ble to the distance of two miles. They are all 
lower than the high platform of the hills on both 
sides ; that on the west continues quite flat as far 
as the horizon, Yellala may in fact be considered 
as placed in the line of the greatest elevation of 
the mountains. Towards the east the country is 
more broken, and in some places may be called 
mountainous, but the mountains are scarcely any 
where so high as at Nokki. The summit consists 
throughout of a hardened clay. 

In the evening we made a visit to the Tjenu, who 
is a plain good-natured man, who expressed his 
satisfaction on seeing a few gallons of brandy, for 
which in return he presented us with some fowls. 
Scarcely any information can be drawn from the 
. natives of the state of the country higher up the 
river. A slave-merchant affirmed that he made a 
journey of a month on the eastern bank, and found 
the river, as he proceeded, expanding as wide as 
it is at Shark's Point. The eastern side of it, he 
told us, w as more populous and civilized, than the 
w estcrn side, which they pretend they do not ven- 
ture to visit, for fear of the savage disposition of 
the bushmen on that side. Some even asserted 
that the people on that side are cannibals. Our 
tent was pitched in the evening at the end of the 
village, from which we have a view of Yellala. 
Below is a valley covered with w ood, in which runs 
a small stream of water, supplying the inhabitants 
with that article. We made a circuitous route over 
the elevated plain, in order to come upon the river 
higher up. We passed Gongola, which is the re- 
sidence of another Tjenu ; but both are subject to 
the Suxum Congo, the province to the northward 
on the northw est side of the river. The south side 



330 PROFESSOR SMITH'S jeURNAL. 

is called Kukulu Congo. Gongola (Concobella of 
the charts ?) is said to be the last regular village in 
the dominions of Congo. After a long march on 
the summit we directed our course towards the 
river, following the common path down to its banks, 
where two small canoes, which are the only ones 
close above Yellala, are used as a ferry for cross- 
ing the river. Notwithstanding the repeated re- 
monstrances the Captain made to the guides that 
they should conduct us straight forwards up the 
river, we found that we had advanced a few miles 
only above the fall of Yellala. At noon we halted. 
We made an excursion on the hills near the river, 
the banks of which now consisted of a white sand. 
The river above the cataract is full of rocks. We 
returrH|d towards a village, where, out of humour 
with our guides, we took a more direct way through 
the grass. In the evening we were obliged to halt 
on a hill covered with grass. A small valley, with 
a rivulet winding its course through it, was seen 
below. The rivulet is said to be visited every 
morning by buffaloes and antelopes, of which some 
had been seen at noon. When near the villages 
we were constantly followed by a crowd of negroes, 
particularly women, who came out to enjoy the 
sight of white men, which was perfectly new to 
them. Though more shy, they appeared to us to 
be more good-natured than those we had seen 
before. 

August 16. We went across the valley and the 
hills on the other side, (which were last night illu- 
minated by fires,) and arrived at the village Mon- 
zi. Having here procured guides who were bet- 
ter acquainted with the country, we proceeded on 
our journey over the hills. Between them are 
small plains with a luxuriant vegetation of trees. 
Towards the north, the country (which is already 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 331 

called Mayamba country), is more level and more 
woody. Elephants are reported to be plentiful 
here. A wild boar rushed forth in a valley, and 
though it broke through the whole line, the sailors, 
from their hurry and want of skill, all fired amiss. 
Unfortunately 1 happened to be somewhat behind, 
and consequently had not the pleasure of seeing it. 
We continued our route over the steep hills, fol- 
lowing the course of the river, which is here bent 
into the form of the arc of a segment of a circle. 
At a short distance above the bend, and on this 
side of the river, is situated the village Jonga 
(Inga), which is the first village inhabited by bush- 
men. From the hills we had a distinct view of 
the river running again northwards to a considera- 
ble distance. I went down to the steep ^|nks of 
the river. Thickets of shrubs and rocks or slate 
that are scattered about in the water, give to the 
line of the river a beautiful appearance. A young 
alligator was basking himself in the sun. I fired at 
him with small shot without success. The river 
here is full of rapids and rocks. It is however 
navigable, though not without great difficulty, and 
no canoes are to be had ; and as it would take too 
much time to carry canoes over-land by the way 
of Kullu, the plan of the captain to make double- 
boats of them must therefore be given up. A jour- 
ney by land over Jonga was resolved upon. We 
may reacli it, we are informed, in a day, by pro- 
ceeding from Kullu over the high plain. We re- 
turned in the evening by the shortest way to Kullu, 
where we did not arrive until late. Mr. Tudor and 
several men, who were already quite exhausted 
by fatigue, were sent back. Next morning Tudor 
was attacked by a violent fever. Unfortunately 
the greatest number appear to be men quite unfit 



332 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

for a long march. The few marines we hav^ are 
of the veteran battalion.* 

August 17. The sick were sent before our de- 
parture early in the morning. We made a visit to 
the Tjenu, who promised to send at noon twenty- 
men to carry their baggage back again by the 
shortest way down the river. 

* There is no such hattalion ; the oldest marine W£te not 40, 
and ail were stout healthy volunteers. Ed. 



[ 33J :f 

SECTION IV. 

Prom Kullu to the Extremity of the Journey. 

i\ugust 20. The boat which had been stationed 
at Nokki went down to tlie Congo sloop. We ac- 
companied the Captain. Two days before he had 
despatched Hawkey and Tudor, with most of the 
people and part of the baggage carried by black 
men, who now met us on their return in order to 
fetch the remainder. Our whole number was 
about thirty, but of whom there were but few fit 
for a long journey. After having reached the sum- 
mits of the hills along the river side, and passed 
by a village, Tudor, in company with Lockhart, 
turned somewhat to the left through a small beau- 
tiful valley, where I found at last a Myrianthiis in 
flower, and anew dried fruit. Passing by Areba, 
and descending a steep hill, we reached Kullu at 
four o'clock. In the evening we paid a visit to the 
Chenoo. Here we received some farther informa- 
tion about the country ; but the men who are to 
carry our baggage are so expensive, that they will 
soon have exhausted our whole stock. A deput is 
to be left here in Kullu. The views of the coun- 
try are very limited. 

August 21. In the morning I went to the other 
end of Yellala. The rocks here present a new 
structure, being mixed with quartz, and bearing 
some resemblance to sienite. A shrub with black 
fruit, which I had seen a long time before, was 
found to belong to Pcntandria trigynia ; and a tree, 
the fruit of which was sweetish and of a blackish 
colour* I discovered to be of Hexandria monogynia. 

32 



334 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

Observations on the barometer were made during 
the day. In the evening I went down into a small 
valley on the other side, where I found a lofty tree 
of an uncertain genus, which I had seen before in 

the swamps. A was seen at the village, 

with brilliant flowers and an jipocymim (JVkennye' 
imimhd). 

On the 20th, the thermometer in the morning at 
nine o'clock was at 75° ; at two o'clock it had risen 
to 83^; and at five P. M. it was 73°. On the 21st at 
nine A. M. it was 71% at two P. M. 81°, and at five 
P. M. 78°. A young Jldansoriia thirty feet high, and 
half a foot thick, was found by its annual circles, as 
well as by its branches, to be thirteen years of age ; 
which would seem to prove the opinion, ground- 
ed on its very great size, of its long life, to be er- 
roneous ; and indeed this might already have been 
inferred from its spongy and succulent texture. 

August 22. After having, with much difficulty, 
got some men to carry the baggage, we set out for 
Iiiga, leaving Fitzmaurice and Hawkey behind, 
and proceeded almost by the same way as on our 
former journey over Gongala to Mansi, across a 
valley covered with wood and well watered. 

Sangala woo is a kind of reed (perhaps an 
Amomurri) which is always kept fresh in the house, 
in time of war it is rolled between the hands in 
invoking the war fetish. They chew it and spit it 
out on their enemies. Mazenga are fetishes used 
for the discovery of robberies. They are covered 
with . . . . . ... . We proceeded over 

rugged hills and small ravines thickly covered 
with wood in a direction somewhat more to the 
north than on our former journey. We had been 
told that WQ would not find any water until we 
reached Inga. We found ourselves all at once in 
a deep ravine about 120 feet in breadth, the bot- 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 335 

torn of which was level with holes; and consisted 
of sand and mica-slate. We found plenty of wa- 
ter. A dark thicket of trees, whicli, as usual in 
ravines, grow upright to an extraordinary height, 
gave to this spot a picturesque appearance. As 
the day was declining the Captain was prevailed 
on to pitch his tent there. A numher of plants 
were found, among which a Hillea hexandra^ tubo 
corolL longiss. deflexo^ and three species of ferns. 
The monkeys were seen coming down the hills, 
and we heard the noise of buffaloes, mingled with 
some singular cries of birds issuing from among the 
dark thickets. 

August 23. We continued our route, passing 
over high and more woody hills and ravines, round 
the bend of the river, where it again winded its 
course towards the east. We had a view of a fall 
that was nearly opposite to Inga, and appeared to 
be higher than that of Yellala. We made our en- 
try into the banza of Inga about noon. It is situ- 
ated on a high plain, and, as usual, surrounded 
with palms and Adansoniae. It was with difficulty 
we could procure a guide, by alternately using 
menaces and entreaties. The Chenoo had given 
his permission, but the Macages seemed to inter- 
fere, and appeared to be jealous of our intercourse 
with the neighbouring nations, whom they were 
anxious to describe to us as being exceedingly evi^ 
disposed. We were obliged to remain here all 
day, and meanwhile made a tour round the village. 
The tree Safu"*^ grew here in abundance, 3-6a/. 
'.^-petnl. 6'andr. c. gland, ^-altcrn.-monogyn. The 
fruit, which was not yet ripe, is valued very 
highly. 

* In a detached note in pencil : Safu. frurt. odul. nigre tin- 
gens. (KulIu-M'galoGalo.) 



336 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

August 24. A stranger had undertaken to serve 
as guide. The greatest part of the baggage was 
left behind. We proceeded eastvfards parallel 
with the river, and into a long valley called Vimba 
Macongo, which we found tolerably even in tra- 
versing. We then passed by the conical mountain 
Sansa Madungu Mongo, which had long been 
within our view. Though the composition of the 
rock is very mixed, it is, however, probably no- 
thing else but mica-slate. We arrived at the vil- 
lages of Condoalla and Kincaya. The horns of a 
large antelope were seen. I fired at a small spe- 
cies of this genus. We proceeded further through 
a valley covered with ant-hills, bearing a resem- 
blance to a fungus. After a march of eight or ten 
miles we were again in the vicinity of the river, 
whose waters here moved gently along. We ob- 
served on the opposite side a large canoe at no 

great distance We encamped 

on an agreeable spot near the river, surrounded by 
green banks and trees. Several new plants oc- 
curred. 

A Chenoo, who appeared much more polite 
than the people of Inga, paid us a visit, and was 
presented by the Captain with an umbrella and 
some other articles. Several others came after- 
wards, particularly on the following morning ; but 
our want of the all-powerful malava (presents) 
gave great dissatisfaction. They promised, how- 
ever, to assist the Captain in purchasing canoes. 

August 25. The great number of traces observ- 
ed all along the river, induced me to go very early 
on an excursion to a sandy beach of the river, situ- 
ated somewhat higher up at the end of a level ra- 
vine. Recent traces of buffaloes, antelopes, and 
turtles were seen, but no living animals, except two 
large wild ducks. We were much incommoded by 



PROFESSOR SJVIITH'S JOURNAL. 337 

numbers of people from the opposite shore and from 
Kullu. Some of them, however, informed us, that 
the river higlier up forms a great sandy island, and 
that it divides into several branches across lovtr 
swampy lands. From this place set out on our 
journey back again over Kincaya and Condoalla to 
Inga, where we arrived in the afternoon. In the 
meantime I visited a ravine, and got a magnificent 
view of no less than four rapids, of which Sanga 
Jalala (Sangalla), situated above the others, and 
not far from our last encampment, appeared to be 
the most considerable of the whole of the falls, the 
number of which probably amounts to six. 

August 26. Hawkey was despatched with four- 
teen negroes and some of our men to Kullu to fetch 
the baggage. We accompanied the Captain through 
the valley of Dimba to Kincaya, with a view of buy- 
ing canoes, but did not find the owners at home. — 
The inhabitants appeared to be of a benevolent dis- 
position. At noon we arrived at Condoalla, majes- 
tically situated in a lofty wood, and surrounded by 

plantations of Pisang. The tree foliis ter- 

minal pennat. grew here in abundance. Its fruit was 
not yet ripe. I observed flower-buds of the shrub 
Echinophora^ Avhich we saw in the district of Kullu. 
In returning, I ascended the top of the high Ma- 
dungo Mongo. The rock in the valley consists 
chiefly of mica-slate, stretching as usual towards 
N. E., and inclining under an angle of forty-five de- 
grees towards N. W. Undermost in the valley, the 
slate is thickly mixed with a granular feldspar and 
hornblende. The top part consists of a very loose 
mica, Tlie mountain here inclined gently in a long- 
extended slope. Its opposite side was covered 
with wood, which was now on fire. I had a full 
view of the whole valley, which from my station 
appeared very flat. The river was seen behind in 



338 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

its whole course, forming several larger islands in 
the line of Inga and my station. The country be- 
hind rises into a platform of uniform elevation with 
the plain on which Inga is situated. The summits 
of the hills are somewhat higher in the back- 
ground. Farther still, at the extremity of the view, 
the river runs round an eminence, but afterwards 
probably turns somewhat more to the northward, 
where the country is considerably lower. No emi- 
nence appeared more elevated than the summits of 
the hills bounded by the horizon. The general 
direction of the valleys and the plains is nearly N. 
and S. I climbed up a lofty tree bearing fruit, some 
of which I had previously brought down with my 
musket. I shot some pigeons ; and being induced 
to pursue a flock of large crested toucans, I did not 
reach Inga till it was quite dark, where they had 
been in some uneasiness about me. 

Last night, when encamping in the open air near 
the river, we had the first shower of rain since our 
arrival in Africa. The negroes on seeing the new 
moon expressed great joy, because during the next 
moon there would be abundant showers of rain, 
and the time would then be arrived for planting 
their grain. The river would then also begin to 
swell, and in two months the rainy season, properly 
so called, would be set in. Lockhart had made a 
tour to the river, where he had found anoiher Epi- 
dendron^ and an Euphorbia ten feet high. Caudice 
'^-ang, spinis marginalib. binis^ ovalibus crassis, petalis 
eblongo-peltatis, 

August 27. Hawkey returned from his journey 
already before noon, having proceeded beyond 
Mansaea, where he had found the fruit of a singular 
water-plant, calcare longo. Accompanied by Gal- 
wey, I descended into a deep ravine, situated N. E. 
from the village. The plants grew here thicker 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 339 

than we had observed in any place before, but the 
greater number of them bore only leaves. We now 
ascended a hill, which afforded us a view of four of 
the falls. That part of the river, where tliey oc- 
cur, is contracted between rocky hills, Ibrming 
nearly a continued line of rapids. Sanga Jalala is 
the uppermost fall but one, and the higliest. The 
lowest is under the village of Inga, a little before 
the river turns towards the south, and the fall of 
Yellala begins at the last turning of the river to- 
wards the general direction, or southeast. The 
length of the rapids is perhaps twenty miles. In 
the evening I went in company with Lockhart to 
the ravine situated northward, where I found the 
superb tree Musanga in flower. 

August 28. Captaui Tuckey and Galwey pro- 
ceeded through the valley to Sangala, the upper- 
most rapid, in order to ascertain whether canoes 
might pass over it. Accompanied by Lockhart, I 
descended the hill, in order to cut down the Mu- 
sanga tree, round the top of which several climb- 
ers, Dioscorca^ and a singular species of jlggregfxta 
were twisted. The (lowers were withered. A man 
died in the village. Gangam Kissey was busy all 
day, in order to discover the cause of his death, and 
Ibund out at last that he had been poisoned by 
three men, among whom was the Macaya . . . 

Macasso is a 

nut chewed by great people only. It is rather bit- 
ter, and perhaps is the Cola nut. Casa is a pur- 
gative legumeii. Jandu, a Dioscorea growing wild. 
Its root is used for food, but it has a bitter taste, 
even after having been boiled a whole day. 

August 29. Captain Tuckey returned in the 
evening after a long and fatiguing tour. Above 
Sangala occurs another fall, but beyond this the 
river is said to run quietly, and tliat canoes with 



340 CAPTAIN TUCKEY'S NARRATIVE. 

two pair of double oars are to be found there. A 
number of antelopes had made their appearance. 
A village had been deserted from fear of vengeance 
for a crime committed in a neighbouring territory. 

August 30. Hawkey was ordered to go to 
Wallu to hire canoes, by means of which it was in- 
tended to endeavour to convey the baggage up San- 
gala. I accompanied liitli on this journey. We 
followed the usual way through the valley of Dimba 
and its villages. From the eminence overlooking 
the valley, we observed a herd of antelopes. On 
our arrivaV at Wallu, we were informed that there 
was but one single canoe at the ferry, and that it 
was used chiefly on market days. 
' August 31. Before daybreak Hawkey and I set 
oiit for the small sandy creek. Here we again 
fired at some of the large wild ducks, and ob- 
served recent traces of hippopotami. On ascend- 
ing some hills we saw several flocks of Guinea- 
fowls, of which we shot one, and when engaged in 
the pursuit of these birds, we came in sight of four 
antelopes, two of which were of a blackish colour 
on the back, the rest of the body brown, with large 
spiral horns. We met with but few new plants. 

Sept. 1. Lockhart this day discovered the fe- 
male tree of Musanga. Another tree which had 
been seen with fruit a long time before was now 
found with flowers. The bark and leaves of the 
Casa tree, which the Gangam Kissey made use of 
as an ordeal, were brought to us. They are said 
to be poisonous. Of some climbers I got only im- 
perfect specimens. 

Sept. 2. We set out for our final tour in com- 
pany with the Captain and Hawkey ; Fitzmaurice 
was ordered to go back to the ships ; Hodder was 
sent up to Inga, and Galwey was carried back 
again sick. Accompanied by twelve men, and the 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 34] 

negroes carrying our baggage, we proceeded by 
way of Wallu and along the valley under the foot 
of the hills. Some antelopes were seen. We 
halted at a rivulet called Lullu, where I found a 
single specimen of an Jl7igiospe)'ma and an Euphor- 
biacea. Our way went over rugged hills till we 
approached the high land towards the evening; 
we then crossed some rivulets, near the last of 
which was a luxuriant growth of trees and thick 
grass. A Clerodendmm was found here, but 1 lost 
the flowers. 

Sept. 3. We passed over the high mountain at 
Mangoama Comma, where I found a Limodorum. 
At noon near a rivulet was found a Laliata herbacea^ 
a parasite plant like Loranthm ; and in the rivulet 

of Lullu, a frutescent Oxalis^ Antidisma^ 

and Poll/podium pteroides^ in small ravines. 

The slate inclined this day more towards the 
west, and the hills were better covered with wood, 
and distinguished by many new villages. The 
higher parts were covered with a red clay. From 
Mangoama Comma a view opened over the upper 
part of the river, which is expanding itself over the 
surface of a country of less elevation. Near the 
upper Sangala is a narrow passage through the 
mountain, down which the river precipitates itself 
within a very contracted channel. For the first 
time I observed in the ravine here the transition to 
clay-slate, of which the hills are formed. Its incli- 
nation is uncertain, but generally towards the 
north. When on the height of the banza Bomba 
Vanga, we were met by a party of slave-merchants. 
From thence we directed our way more towards the 
river, and proceeded over some smaller hills till 
we reached Condo Janga in the evening; the 
view above being uninterrupted over an open and 
flat count rv. The river had now the appearance 

33 



342 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

of one of our northern lakes ; its banks were cover- 
ed with wood, and in some parts of it were rocks 
rising out of the surface in the form of a horse-shoe. 
Canoes again made their appearance, and renew- 
ed our hopes. We were at the beginning of a 
country evidently capable of an extensive cultiva- 
tion, with a fine navigable river, with abundance 
of provisions for sale, and with an increased popu- 
lation. The evening was spent in hunting after 
the hippopotami, which snorted close by us at the 
point of the bay ; and they were so numerous, that 
we could not say it was their fault if the chase was 
unsuccessful. 

Sept. 4. Our tour to-day was more agreeable 
than any we had made for a long time. After hav- 
ing crossed the bay in canoes, we walked along the 
level banks of the river. A delay however was 
occasioned by a quarrel with the carriers. In pas- 
sing through two or three villages we were follow- 
ed by a number of people attracted by curiosity. 
We proceeded over the bend of the river, which, 
higher up, again runs in a northerly direction. In 
the formation of the rocks clay-slate is still predo- 
minating. The river-side was in some places co- 
vered with less slaty clay of a reddish colour, 
which higher up alternated with a compact blue, 
sometimes horny limestone. We pitched our tent 
at noon. 

Our party begins again to be somewhat dispirited, 
and it is whispered that we shall return in about 
two days more, at a time when every thing seems 
to inspire fresh hopes. Many new plants were 
collected here, and two singular species of un- 
known fishes. We saw also a great many striped 
skins of a small species of antelope. 

Sept. 5. I made an excursion along the rugged 
banks of the river, which now form small sandy 
beaches between projecting rocks of clay-slate, 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 343 

with three or four alternating beds of the above- 
mentioned blue compact limestone. 1 made my 
way over two ravines thickly covered with wood, 
and shot some pigeons, which flocked all around 
in great numbers. I saw also some partridges, a 
species of tlie strandpiper, a vulture, which I fired 
at, and a corvus. Of plants I saw a Fern ; a Fru- 
tex dioicus^ stylo 3-pariito plumoso ; a Frutex spinosus 
debilis^ syngencsia polygamia nccessaria^ flor, capital; 
a Malamba with young fruit, seminibus in pulpa ni- 
dulantibus. 

We proceeded across the plain up to the foot of 
a fine hill, that limits it towards the west. An ex- 
cellent view of the course of the river here pre- 
sented itself, comprehending its long course east- 
ward from Condo Inga, which we had partly pass- 
ed, with its ... . small rocks, and the whole plain 
covered with scattered groupes of palms. Higher 
up the river was seen turning northward round a 
point, above which the village Kabinda is situated 
at the foot of the eminences. The northerly very 
expanded reaches of the river soon ceases, and the 
river turns again in a southerly direction, winding 
between small points, and disappearing behind the 
hills to the S. E., in which direction it seems to 
continue. 

The country towards the north and northeast is 
somewhat precipitous, with hills of unequal height, 
but on the south side and southeast side it is more 
level. No very considerable mountain has as yet 
been discovered in the back ground. It is only 
along the river that trees are growing. The width 
of its expanded smooth surface is generally about 
one* English mile. It is here extremely beautiful, 

* Dr. Smith is very loose and vague in all his descriptions and 
f^tatements, that fall not within the sphere of Botany. Captain 
Tuckey makes the width of the River here from three to four 
English miles. Ed. 



344 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

and if the hills were covered with wood, it would 
be another Ransfiord.* A number of spectators 
came down from the village. I descended quicklj, 
but found no bargain made. The inhabitants had 
danced a Sanga. A gentleman promised us a ca- 
noe next morning. The dark long sky, which about 
a month ago at the horizon was shown to us as a 
sign of the approach of the rainy season, appeared 
in the evening at the north side of the river. The 
night was moonlight. 

Sept. 6. Having at last succeeded in hiring two 
canoes, the baggage was carried by them along 
the shore, while we proceeded by land through 
two villages over the plain and down to the river at 
the upper end of the rocks, which are disposed 
like a horse-shoe. At this latter place the canoes 
~^were dragged over two rapids. Four hippopotami 
were seen here, at which 1 fired several shots, and 
hit one of them in the head, when he started up 
and disappeared. We proceeded round the point 
into the bay of Bobomga, and behind the first long 
rock, which was found to consist of crystallized 
limestone, of which perhaps the narrow tongue 
of land is also composed. 

At the bottom of the bay is a small lake, into 
which the water flowed through a creek, which 
perhaps indicated the rising of the river. Its shores 
were all around covered with paniciim. An alliga- 
tor was swimming in the lake, and another before 
the mouth. Traces of hippopotami were seen 
every where. Shoals of fish abounded in the small 
creeks. A Hcematopus and several other birds were 
seen. All this gave to that spot a romantic appear- 
ance. Having crossed the projecting tongue of 
land situated under Kavinda, we pitched our tent 

* A firth in Norway, or a large bay. 



PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 345 

under the hills in the sandy cove opposite the long- 
est point; and here it was evident from the strand 
plants which projected into the water, that the 
river had risen from six to eight inches. The tem- 
perature was as low as 73-h° ; observations w ere 
made morning and evening. An alligator wae 
swimming about all night near the shore, and con- 
trived to carry off the only goat we had left re- 
maining. I found here again the beautiful Tetran- 
dria, corolla tubulosa^ foliis muUifidis^ which I had 
seen at Mampaya. 

Sept. 7. A third canoe was hired to-day, and 
all embarked. Projecting into the bay are pictu- 
resque rocks, consisting of subverted alternating 
beds of clay and limestone. 

Near some rocky islands, a number of small 
Charudrii were seen. Behind these rocks, a little 
higher up, the river is again somewhat contracted, 
and we were told that our people w ould not be able 
to pass in canoes. One of them was in fact upset, 
and broken by carelessness, which accident occa- 
sioned a long delay. At last we got over to the 
other side of the river, and landed in a beautiful 
sandy cove, at the opening of a creek, behind a 
long projecting point. It is called Sandi-Sundi. 
An immense number of hippopotami were seen here. 
In the evening a number of alligators were also 
seen. 

Sept. 8. Our hunting excursions last night and 
this morning were equally unsuccessful. I fired at 
some hippopotami. A young Musiela was brought 
to us by the negroes. Some porters or coolies were 
again hired to carry the baggage over-land. We 
proceeded up the hills till we reached the high land, 
w hich is here rather level, the soil consisting of 
clay. The clay-slate formation still continues. 
This side seems to be more populous than the 



346 PROFESSOR SMITH'S JOURNAL. 

other. After passing through three or four villages 
we again approached the river, which is here more 
than half a Danish mile in breadth. The shore is 
flat and sandy, with several varieties of limestone. 
We had now arrived at the end of the southern 
reach of the river, which again took a northeaster- 
ly direction, in consequence of a chain of undula- 
ting mountains being situated in that direction. 
The country on the north or east side appears now 
flatly inclining. Towards the northeast are coves 
terminated by large sand-banks. We renewed our 
chase after the hippopotami. 

Sept. 9. We proceeded round the creek, into 
which at the upper end a large rivulet emptied it- 
self, and over the first hills, when we found two vil- 
lages. From the summit we had a view of the 
windings of the river, which, turning round the 
hills, takes a large sweep to the eastward, after 
which, according to the accounts given by the in- 
habitants, it runs to the southward. The ridge of 
hills consists of clay-slate. The highest that were 
seen running east and west -------- 



yit this place they turned their backs on the River, to 
the great annoyance, as the Gardener states, of Dr. 
Srrdth, who had become so much enraptured with the 
improved appearance of the Country, and the magnifi^ 
cence of the River, that it was with the utmost difficulty 
he teas prevailed on to return ; four days after this he 
was attacked with fever. ^ 



[ 347 ] 



A CONCISE VIEW of the Country along the Line of 
the Zaire^ — its JVatural History and Inhabitants^ — 
collected from the preceding JVarratives^ and from the 
Observations of the JYaturalists and Officers employed 
on the Expedition. 

' The River. — If, from the lamentable and almost 
unaccountable mortality which brought to an un- 
timely termination this ill-fated expedition, the 
grand problem respecting the identity of the Niger 
and the Zaire still remains to be solved ; we have 
at least, by means of it, acquired a more certain 
and distinct knowledge of the direction and mag- 
nitude of the latter river, in its passage through the 
kingdom of Congo, as well as a more extended and 
correct notion of the nature of the country, of its 
inhabitants and productions, than had hitherto 
been supplied in the accounts (and they are the 
only ones) of the early Catholic missionaries. 

It now appears, that although this great river, 
which has been named promiscuously the Congo, 
the Zaire, and the Barbela (but which ought, as 
Captain Tuckey learned, to be called Moienzi En- 
zaddi^ ^* the Great River," or, " the river that ab- 
sorbs all other rivers"), falls short, in some re- 
spects, of the magnificent character given to the 
lower part of its course ; yet in others, it has been 
much underrated. Its great velocity, for instance, 
its perpetual state of being flooded, and its effec- 
tual resistance of the tide, are exaggerations ; but 
in regard to its depth at the point of junction with 
the sea, it was found to exceed the highest estimate 
which had been given to it. In MaxwelPs chart. 



348 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

which is the only one published deserving of notice^ 
the soundings near to the mouth, and for a conside- 
rable distance upwards, are marked down at 100 
fathoms ; and the rate of the current at five, six, 
and even seven knots an hour. Captain Tuckey, 
when in the transport, says that they could get no 
bottom with 150 fathoms of line out; and Mr. Fitz- 
maurice was equally unsuccessful in the Congo 
sloop with a line of 160 fathoms. These attempts 
however are no proofs of the river being actually 
that depth, as the loose line floats away with the 
current; but Massey's sounding machine, which is 
so contrived by being thrown overboard, and un- 
connected entirely with the drift of the ship, as not 
to be influenced by it, indicated by its index, when 
hauled up, a descent to the depth of 113 fathoms ; 
at which depth, the lead attached to it had not 
touched the ground ; and it was observed, that al- 
though the current made a rippling noise, some- 
what resembling that of a mill-sluice, yet, on trial, 
it was seldom found to exceed four and a half, or five 
knots an hour, and in many places not more than 
two and a half It was however sufficiently strong 
in many parts of the channel to prevent the trans- 
port from entering the river for five days ; and it 
was not until the sixth that, by taking the advan- 
tage of a strong sea-breeze, which sets in regular- 
ly with more or less strength every afternoon, she 
was enabled, by creeping close to the shore, to 
stem the current, which is there less strong than in 
the middle, where the water is deepest. The cur- 
rent however in the mid -stream must have been 
greater than it is generally stated ; as it is admitted 
by the surveyor, that, with every desire to com- 
plete the survey of the river in all its parts, he found 
it impossible, even with the aid of Massey's ma- 
chine, to get the soundings in the mid-channel, 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 349 

though the river was, at that time, in its lowest state. 
Maxwell's chart was found to be incorrect in many 
respects, especially as to distances, which are 
generally too great. With regard to the flat islands 
formed by alhivial earth, and overgrown with the 
mangrove and the papyrus, constant changes are 
taking place, some gradually forming and increas- 
ing in size, while others are wholly or partially 
swept by the current into the ocean. 

The mistaken notion, which seems to have origi- 
nated with the Portuguese, that the tide could 
make no impression on the current of the Zaire, 
is but partially true ; this mistake is now corrected 
by frequent observations of the tide forcing the 
reflux of the stream very perceptibly as high up as 
the commencement of the narrows at Sondie, where 
the rise and fall amounted from twelve to sixteen 
inches : but though it caused the water to be 
dammed up, and a counter-current on one or both 
sides, yet, strictly speaking, the current in the mid- 
dle of the river was never overcome by the tide. 

The distance at which the narrows commence is 
about 140 English miles from the mouth of the 
river at Point Padron, and they continue as far as 
Inga, or forty miles nearly ; the width of the river 
being generally not more than from three to five 
hundred yards, throughout that extent, and in most 
parts bristled with rocks. The banks, between 
which the water is thus hemmed in, are, for the 
whole of this distance, every where precipitous, 
and composed entirely of masses of slate ; which, 
in several places, run in ledges across from one 
bank to the other, forming rapids or cataracts, 
which the natives distinguish by the name of Yel- 
lala. The lowest and the most formidable of these 
barriers was found to be a descending bed of mica 
slate, whose fall was about thirty feet perpendicu- 

34 



J50 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

lar in a slope of 300 yards. Though in this low 
state of the river it was scarcely deserving the 
name of a cataract, it was stated by the natives to 
make a tremendous noise in the rainy season, and 
to throw into the air large volumes of white foam. 
Even now the foam and spray at the bottom are 
said to have mounted eighteen or twenty feet into 
the air. 

On visiting this Yellala, Capt. Tuckey, Professor 
Smith, and Mr. Fitzmaurice were not a little sur- 
prised to observe, how small a quantity of water 
passed over this contracted part of the river, com- 
pared with the immense volume which rolled into 
the ocean through the deep funnel-shaped mouth ; 
the more so, as they had previously ascertained, 
in their progress upwards, that not a single tribu- 
tary stream of water, sufficient to turn a mill, fell 
into the river on either side, between the mouth 
and the cataract; and they concluded, that the 
only satisfactory explanation of this remarkable 
difference in the quantity, was the supposition that 
a very considerable mass of water must find its 
way through subterraneous passages, under the 
slate rocks ; disappearing probably where the river 
first enters these schistose mountains, and forms 
the narrows, and rising again a little below their 
termination, at Point Sondie, where the channel 
begins to widen, and from whence to Lemboo Point* 
a succession of tornados and whirlpools were ob^ 
served to disturb the regular current of the river. 
These whirlpools are described, both by Captain 
Tuckey and Mr. Fitzmaurice, to be so violent and 
dangerous, that no vessel could attempt to ap- 
proach them. Even the eddies occasioned by them 
were so turbulent as frequently to resist both sails, 
oars, and towing, twisting the boats round in every 
direction; and it was with the utmost difficulty^ 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 35] 

that they were extricated without being swamped. 
The instances of rivers losing tliemselves for a time 
under ground are so common, in all countries, that 
there seems to be no particular objection to the 
hypothesis of the Zaire losing a great portion of 
its waters in its passage through the narrows, under 
its schistose bed. At the same time, the eye might 
be deceived in estimating the quantity of water 
forced into a narrow channel, and running with the 
rapidity of a mill-sluice till it falls over a cataract, 
by a comparison with that which flows in a deep 
and expanded bed, in one uniform and tranquil 
motion ; having besides an eddy, or counter-cur- 
rent, on one or both sides, which carries a con- 
siderable portion of water in a retrograde direc- 
tion. 

Be this as it may, the Zaire, beyond the moun- 
tainous regions, was again found to expand to the 
width of two, three, and even more than four miles, 
and to flow with a current of two to three miles an 
hour ; and near the place where Captain Tuckey 
was compelled to abandon the further prosecution 
of the journey, which was about 100 miles beyond 
Inga, or 280 miles from Cape Padron, it is stated 
that the river put on a majestic appearance, that 
the scenery was beautiful, and not inferior to any 
on the banks of the Thames ; and the natives of 
this part all agreed in stating, that they knew of 
no impediment to the continued navigation of the 
river ; that the only obstruction in the northeastern 
branch, was a single ledge of rocks, forming a 
kind of rapid, over which however canoes were 
able to pass. 

The opinion that the Zaire is in a constant state 
of flood, or, in other words, that it continues to be 
swelled more or less by freshes through the whole 
year, has been completely refuted by the present 



352 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

expedition. But the argument, which was ground- 
ed on this supposition, of its origin being in north- 
ern Africa, so far from being weakened, has ac- 
quired additional strength from the correction of 
the error. Like all other tropical rivers, the Zaire 
has its periodical floods ; but the quantity of its 
rise and fall is less perhaps than that of any other 
river of equal magnitude. From the lowest ebb, 
at which the party saw it, to the highest marks of 
its rise on the rocks, the difference no where ap- 
peared to exceed eleven feet, and in many places 
was not more than eight or nine. The commence- 
ment of the rise was first observed above Yellala, 
on the 1st of September, to be three inches; and 
on the 17th of that month it had acquired, at the 
Tall Trees, near the mouth of the river, the height 
of seven feet; without the velocity having much, 
if at all increased ; and without a single shower 
having fallen that deserves to be noticed. The 
little difference between the rise of seven feet, 
which then took place in the dry season, while the 
sun was still to the northward of the line, and that 
of eleven feet in the wet season, during which the 
sun is twice vertical, affords a solid argument for 
its northern origin ; and, when coupled with the 
particular moment at which it was first observed 
to rise, would seem to establish the fact, almost 
beyond a doubt, that one branch of the river, as 
was stated by the natives, must descend from some 
part of Africa to the northward of the Equator. 

We find in Captain Tuckey's notes, after having 
observed the progressive rise of the river, the inser- 
tion of two words as a memorandum, " hypothesis 
confirmed." This hypothesis had previously been 
stated among the last notes of his Journal, which 
he did not live to reduce into a regular narrative, 
fitider these words; '^extraordinary quiet rise of 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 353 

the river shows it to issue from some lake, which 
had received almost the whole of its water from 
the north of the line." But in a private letter writ- 
ten from Yellala, and brought home in the Congo, 
he dwells more particularly on this hypothesis; 
" combining" he says " my observations with the in- 
formation I have been able to collect from the na- 
tives, vague and trifling as it is, I cannot help think- 
ing that the Zaire will be found to issue from some 
large lake, or chain of lakes, considerably to the 
northward of the line ;" and he contends that, so far 
from the low state of the river in July and August 
militating against such an hypothesis, it has the 
contrary tendency of giving additional weight to it, 
" provided" he goes on to say, " the river should 
begin to swell in the early part of September, an 
event I am taught to expect, and for which I am 
anxiously looking out." The river did begin to 
swell at the precise period he had anticipated ; 
and that circumstance corroborating the previous 
conclusion he had drawn, induces him to note 
down in his Journal, that " the hypothesis is con- 
firmed." 

It is evident that Captain Tuckey, on the latter 
part of his journey, could only put down a few brief 
notes to refresh his memory, which, from his exhaust- 
ed state, on his return to the vessels, he was wholly 
unable to enlarge or explain ; and thus the reason- 
ing on which he had built his hypothesis is lost to the 
world : he lamented, it seems, when on his death- 
bed, that he could not be permitted to live to put in 
order the remarks he had collected in tracing up- 
wards this extraordinary river. Unfortunately none 
of the party has escaped to supply this deficiency : 
the solidity, however, of Captain Tuckey 's conclu- 
sion is not shaken, but rather corroborated, bv 
what is known of physical facts and the geographi- 



354 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

cal probabilities, as connected with northern Africa. 
These may be briefly stated. 

In the tropical regions, the rains generally fol- 
low the sun's course, and are not at their height till 
he approaches the tropics ; hence arises the ex- 
hausted state of the lakes of Wangara in the months 
of May, June, and July, and their overflowing in the 
middle and latter end of August, according to the 
observations of the Arabian geographers ; and this 
late flooding of the lakes is obviously owing to the 
long easterly course of the Niger, collecting into its 
channel all the waters from the northward and 
the southward as it proceeds along. If, then, the 
ebb and flood of the Wangara lakes depend on the 
state of the Niger, it will follow, on the supposition 
of the identity of that river and the Zaire, that the 
flood and ebb of the latter, to the southward of the 
line must correspond with the ebb and flood of the 
lakes of Wangara. The existence of those lakes 
has never been called in question, though their po- 
sition has not been exactly ascertained; but sup- 
posing them to be situated somewhere between the 
twelfth and fifteenth degrees of northern latitude, 
the position usually assigned to them in the charts, 
and that the southern outlet is under or near the 
12th parallel, the direct distance between that and 
the spot where Captain Tuckey first observed the 
Zaire to rise, may be taken at about 1200 miles, 
which, by allowing for the windings of the river, 
and some little difference of meridians, cannot be 
calculated at less than 1600 miles. 

Admitting, then, that the lakes of Wangara 
should overflow in the first week of August, and the 
current in the channel or outlet move at the rate of 
2^ miles an hour, which is the average rate at 
which the Zaire was found to flow above the nar- 
rows, the flooded stream would reach that spot in 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 35 3 

the first week of September, and swell that river 
exactly in tlie way, and at the time and place, as 
observed by Captain Tuckey. No other supposi- 
tion, in fact, than that of its northern origin, will 
explain the rise of the Zaire, in the dry season ; 
and if its identity with the Niger, or, which amounts 
to the same thing, its communication with Wanga- 
ra, should be disputed, Captain Tuckey 's hypothe- 
sis of its issuing from some other great lake, to the 
northward of the line, will still retain its probabi- 
lity. The idea of a lake seems to have arisen from 
the " extraordinary quiet rise" of the river, which 
was from three to six inches in twenty-four hours. 
If the rise of the Zaire had proceeded from rains 
to the southward of the line, swelling the tributary 
streams, and pouring, in mountain torrents, the wa- 
ters into the main channel, the rise would have 
been sudden and impetuous ; but coming on as it 
did in a quiet and regular manner, it could proceed 
only from the gradual overflowing of a lake. 

There is, however, another circumstance in fa- 
vour of a river issuing from Wangara, or the lakes 
and swamps designated under that name, and of 
that river being the Zaire. There is not a lake, 
perhaps, of any magnitude in the known world, 
without an outlet^ whose waters are not saline — the 
Caspian, the Aral and the neighbouring lakes, the 
Asphaltites or Dead Sea, and all those of Asia, 
which have no outlet, are salt.^ Ifi therefore, the 
lakes of Wangara had no outlet, but all the waters 
received into them spread themselves over an ex- 
tended surface during the rains, and were evapo- 
rated in the dry season, there would necessarily be 

* The freshness of the Zure or Zurrah, the Aria Palus, in Sci- 
i^tan, rests on no authority — but if so, its waters arc not evapn 
r;ited. hut pass off by filtration through the sunrl. 



356 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

deposited on the earth, so left dry, an incrustation 
of salt, and the remaining water would be strongly 
impregnated with salt; and both the one and the 
other would be increased by every succeeding in- 
undation. None of the African rivers are free from 
saline impregnations; but the Niger, in its long 
easterly course, collecting the waters from the 
sandy and saline soil of the desert, where every 
plant almost is saturated with salt, must be parti- 
cularly charged with it. No mention, however, is 
made by any of the Arabian writers of that indis- 
pensable article, salt, being procured in the mud 
or soil abandoned by the waters of Wangara; on 
the contrary, it is well known that one great branch 
of the trade of Tombuctoo is that of obtaining salt 
from the northern desert, for the supply of the coun- 
tries to the southward of the Niger. But if Wan- 
gara had no outlet, this could not be necessary, as 
both it and all the large inland lakes, so circum- 
stanced, would afford more or less of salt ; and if 
so, the trade of the caravans proceeding with rock 
salt from Tegazza to Tombuctoo w ould not have 
existed ; as it is well known it has done, and still 
does, especially from the latter place to Melli and 
other countries south of the Niger, " to a great wa- 
ter," as Cadamosta says, " which the traders could 
not tell whether it was salt or fresh ; by reason of 
which (he says) I could not discover whether it 
was a river or the sea ; but," he continues, " I hold 
it to be a river, because if it was the sea, there 
would be no need of salt." 

Edrisi, however, distinctly states them to be fresh- 
water lakes, and says that the two cities of Ghana 
are situated on the two opposite shores of what the 
Arabs call a fresh-water sea. This fresh-water sea, 
therefore, must necessarily have an outlet ; or, like 
the Ca'?pian, it would be no longer fresh; and the 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 357 

conclusion is, that if the Niger runs into these lakes 
of Ghana and Wangara, it does not there termi- 
nate, but that, in the season of the rains, it also 
flows out of them. In fact, Edrisi does not make 
the Niger to terminate in the swamps of Wangara 
or Vancara ; he merely describes them as being an 
island three hundred miles in length, and one hun- 
dred and fifty in breadth, surrounded by the Niger 
all the year, but that, in the month of August, the 
greater part is covered with water as long as the 
inundations of the Niger continue ; and that when 
the river has subsided into its proper channel, the 
negroes return to their habitations, and dig the 
earth for gold, *' every one finding more or less, as 
it pleases God." But not a word is mentioned of 
their finding salt, which indeed is the great inter- 
changeable commodity for gold. 

On the assumption, then, of Wangara discliarg- 
ing its overflowing waters, the most probable di- 
rection of the channel is to the southward ; and as 
the evidence of the northern origin of the Zaire 
amounts almost to the establishment of the fact, the 
approximation of the two streams is in favour of 
their identity. If the account of Sidi Hamet's visit 
to Wassenah, as related by Riley, could be depend- 
ed on, a very few degrees only are wanting to bring 
the two streams together; but with all the strong 
testimonies in favour of Riley's veracity, every page 
of his book betrays a looseness and inaccuracy, 
that very much diminish the value of this Arab's 
narrative as it is given by him The name of Zadi, 
given by this Arab merchant to the Niger at Was- 
senah ; that of Zad, which Horneman learned to be 
its name to the eastward of Tombuctoo, " where it 
turned off to the southward ;" the Enzaddi. which 
Maxwell says is the name given to the cataracts of 
the Zaire; and the Moienzi enzaddi. vj\i\c\\ Captain 

3.5 



^58 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

Tuckey understood to be the name of the river at 
Embomma, are so many concurring circumstances 
which give a favourable though a faint colour to the 
hypothesis of the identity of the two rivers; 

If any further exploration of the Zaire, upwards, 
should be undertaken, Captain Tuckey has suffi- 
ciently established the fact, that no naval equip- 
ment at home can avail in the prosecution of thi& 
object. All that appears to be necessary, is that 
of providing at the Cape de Verde islands a dozen 
or twenty asses and mules, and carrying them in a 
common transport up the river as far as Embomma ; 
from thence to make the best of the way over-land 
direct for Condo Yanga, the place which has been 
assigned by Captain Tuckey, as possessing the 
greatest advantages for the necessary preparations 
for embarking on the river ; and these preparations 
would consist merely in purchasing or hiring half 
a dozen canoes, with the help of two or three 
ship carpenters, converting them into three double- 
boats, or twin-canoes, by a few planks, which would 
form a convenient platform for the accommodation 
of the party, the animals, and the baggage. In 
this way they would proceed where the river was 
navigable, and by land, with the assistance of the 
asses and mules, where interruptions occurred; 
and thus they would avoid that degree of fatigue^ 
which was unquestionably the principal cause ot 
the death of those who fell on the late expedition. 
On the part of the natives, it is now pretty welt 
ascertained, there would be no obstruction, unless 
they are of a very different disposition higher up 
in the interior, than what Captain Tuckey experi- 
enced them to be, which is not, as far as he could 
collect, very likely: the character of the negro 
having hitherto been every where stamped with 
mildness, simplicity, and benignity of disposition. 



liENEKAL OBSERVATIONS. 359 

Face of the Country — Soil, Climate, and Pro- 
ductions. The country named Congo, of which 
we find so much written in collections of Voyages 
and Travels, appears to be an undefined tract of 
territory, hemmed in between Loango on the north, 
and Angola on the south ; but to what extent it 
stretches inland, it would be difficult to determine; 
and depends most probably on the state of war or 
peace with the contiguous tribes. All that seems 
to be known at present is, that the country is par- 
titioned out into a multitude of petty states or 
Chenooships, held as a kind of fiefs under some 
real or imaginary personage living in the interior, 
nobody knows exactly where. Captain Tuckey 
could only learn that the paramount sovereign was 
named Blindy JVCongo, and resided at a banza 
named Congo, which was six days journey in the 
interior from the Tall Trees, where, by the account 
of the negroes, the Portuguese had an establish- 
ment, and where there were soldiers and white 
women. This place is no doubt the St. Salvador 
of the Portuguese. These chiefs have improperly 
been called kings: their territories, it would seem, 
are small in extent, the present expedition having 
passed at least six of them in the line of the river; 
the last is that of Inga, beyond which are what they 
call busfiraen, or those dreadful cannibals whom 
Andrew Battle, Lopez, Merolla, and others, have 
denominated Jagas, or Giagas, " who consider 
human fiesh as the most delicious food, and goblets 
of warm blood as the most exquisite beverage;" 
a calumny, which there is every reason to believe 
has not tlie smallest foundation in tact. From the 
character and disposition of the native African, it 
may be fairly doubted whether throughout the 
whole of this great continent, a no2:;ro cannibal ha? 
i\r)y existence. 



360 GEINEttAL OBSERVATIONS. 

That portion of the Congo territory, through 
which the Zaire flows into the southern Atlantic, is 
not very interesting, either in the general appear- 
ance of its surface, its natural products, or the 
state of society, and the condition of its native in- 
habitants. The first is unalterably ; the second 
and third are capable of great extension and im- 
provement, by artificial and moral cultivation ; but 
with the exception of the river itself, there are 
probably few points between the mouth of the Se- 
negal and Cape Negro, on that coast, which do not 
put on a more interesting appearance, in a physi- 
cal point of view, than the banks of the Zaire. 
The cluster of mountains, though in general not 
high (the most elevated probably not exceeding 
two thousand feet), are denuded of all vegetation, 
with the exception of a few coarse rank grasses ; 
and the lower ranges of hills, having no grand fo- 
rests, as might be expected in such a climate, but a 
few large trees only, scattered along their sides 
and upon their summits, the most numerous of 
which are, the Adansonia, Mimosa, Bombax, 
Ficus, and palms of two or three species. 

Between the feet of these hills, however, and 
the margins of the river, the level alluvial banks, 
which extend from the mouth nearly to Embomma, 
are clothed with a most exuberant vegetation, pre- 
senting to the eye one continued forest of tall and 
majestic trees, clothed with foliage of never fading 
verdure. Numerous islands are also seen to rise 
above the surface of the river, some mantled with 
the thick mangrove, mingled with the tall and ele- 
gant palm, and others covered with the Egyptian 
papyrus, resembling at a distance extensive fields of 
waving corn. Perhaps it may be said, that the 
great characteristic feature of the banks and 
islands of the lower part of the Zaire is the man- 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 36] 

grove, the palm, the adansonia and the botnbax, 
with intermediate patches of papyrus ; and after 
the alluvial flats have ceased, naked and precipi- 
tous mountains, resting on micaceous slate, which, 
through an extent of at least fifty miles, forms the 
two banks of the river; the only interruption to 
this extended shore of slate being a few narrow 
ravines, in which the villages of the natives are 
situated, amidst clumps of the wine-palm, and small 
patches of cultivated ground. On the summits of 
the hills, also, which Captain Tuckey distinguishes 
by the name of plateaus, there is a sufficiency of 
soil for the cultivation of the ordinary articles of 
food; and here too numerous small villages occur 
amidst the bombax, the mimosa, the adansonia and 
the palm ; but the soil on the tops and sides is of 
a hard clayey nature, incapable of being worked 
in the dry season, but sufficiently productive when 
mellowed by the heavy rains, and with the aid of a 
heated atmosphere. 

The country however becomes greatly improved 
in every respect, beyond the narrows of the river. 
Hitherto the general characteristic features of 
the geology of the country were mica-slate, quartz, 
and sienite ; but here the rock formation, though 
not entirely, >vas considerably changed; the gra- 
nite mountains and hills of pebbly quartz having 
given way to clay and ferruginous earth, and the 
mica-slate to limestone. The banks of the Zaire 
are now no longer lined with continued masses of 
mica-slate, but many rocky promontories of marble 
jut into the river, with fertile vales between them; 
and the reaches of the river itself stretchini:: out 
into broad expanded sheets of water, resembling 
so many mountain lakes. The greater part of the 
surface was now fit for cultivation, and towns or 
villages followed each other in constant succes- 
sion, far beyond the limits of the Congo territory. 



362 OENERAL OBSERVATIONS, 

Vegetation was more generally diffused, as well as 
more varied ; and rills of clear water trickled down 
the sides of the hills, and joined the great river. 
It was just at the commencement of this improved 
appearance of the country, where, from the sickly 
state of the party, and the loss of their baggage, 
Captain Tuckey was reluctantly compelled to 
abandon the further prosecution of the objects of 
the expedition; and in some respects it was fortu- 
nate he did, as had he proceeded two or three 
days longer, the whole party must unquestionably 
have perished in the interior of Africa, and might 
perhaps never more have been heard of. 

The account which the missionaries have given 
of the climate, corresponds exactly with that which 
was experienced by Captain Tuckey. " The win- 
ter," says Carli, " of the kingdom of Congo, is the 
mild spring or autumn of Italy ; it is not subject to 
rains, but every morning there falls a dew which 
fertilizes the earth." None of the party make any 
complaint of the climate ; they speak, on the con- 
trary, in their notes and memoranda, of the cool, 
dry, and refreshing atmosphere, especially after 
the vvestern breezes set in, which they usually do 
an hour or tv/o after the sun has passed the meri- 
dian, and continue till midnight ; and when calm 
in the early part of the day, the sun is said so sel- 
dom to shine out, that for four or five days to- 
gether^ thej were unable to get a correct altitude 
to ascertain the latitude. So much, however, de- 
pends on locality, that at the place where the 
Congo was moored, the range of the thermometer 
differed very materially from that on board the 
transport lower down, and also from that observed 
in the upper parts of the river. The former ves- 
sel was moored in a reach surrounded by hills, 
and what little of the sea-breeze reached her, had 
to pass over a low swampy island. Here, Mr. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



363 



M'Kerrow noticed the range of the thermometer 
to be from 70° to 90° in the shade; sometimes, 
thougli hut seldom, as low as 67° in the night, and 
as high as 98^ at noon ; and one day on shore it 
rose to 103° under the shade of trees ; at the same 
time, above Inga, the temperature seldom exceed- 
ed 76° in the day, and was sometimes down to 60° 
at night. He seems to think, that partly owing to 
a better position of the transport, whicli remained 
at anchor lower down the river, nearly opposite to 
the Tall Trees, where she had the benefit of the 
sea-breeze without interruption, and partly by 
preventing her crew from going on shore, tliis ves- 
sel, continued healthy until she received on board 
the unfortunate people belonging to the Congo. 

The following table exhibits the state of Fali- 
renheit's thermometer, at three periods of the day, 
for one month, from 20th July to 20th August, in 
different parts of the river, from the entrance to 
the Cataract, and of the water of tlie river at noon. 



Date. 








1 


Date. 




^ 








CO 


o 


CO 


> 

o 

o 




CO 


o 


00 


1' 


July 20 


o 

72 


o 

74 


o 

73 


o 

75 


.\v<r. 5 


o 
71 


o 

78 


o 

78 


o 

77 


21 


71 


76 


74 


76 


6 


72 


80 


78 


76 


22 


72 


75 


74 


76 


7 


72 


77 


77 


78 


23 


72 


75 


75 


76 


8 


71 


77 


76 


76 


24 


72 


74 


73 


77 


9 


69 


78 


78- 


78 


25 


71 


76 


76 


77 


10 


69 


76 


76 


78 


26 


72 


78 


80 


76 


11 


70 


76 


75 


77 


27 


73 


78 


77 


77 


12 


68 


77 


78 


76 


28 


G9 


80 


76 


76 


1.) 


70 


76 


77 


76 


29 


70 


78 


74 


75 


11 


73 


78 


76 


77 


30 


70 


76 


76 


76 


15 


72 


78 


76 


77 


31 


71 


76 


74 


76 


16 


72 


77 


75 


76 


Av^. 1 


69 


73 


75 


76 


17 


70 


76 


76 


76 


2 


71 


73 


76 


76 


IC 


71 


76 


77 


78 


3 


71 


74 


76 


76 


19 


71 


78 


77 


77 


4 


69 


76 


76 


76 


20 


69 


78 


75 


76 



364 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

It is remarked in a meteorological journal, im- 
perfectly kept by Captain Tuckey, in proceed- 
ing up the river, that from the mouth to Embomma, 
the temperature of the river was almost invariably 
at 76°. 

The alimentary plants are very various, and for 
the most valuable of them, the natives are indebt- 
ed to the Portuguese. The staple products of the 
vegetable world consist of manioc or cassava, 
yams, and maize or Indian corn ; to which may be 
added sweet potatoes, pumpions, millet of two or 
three species, and calavanses : they have besides 
cabbages, spinage, pepper, capsicum, the sugar- 
cane, and tobacco. Of fruits they have the plantain or 
banana, papaw, oranges, limes, and pine-apples. 
The latter fruit was met with by Captain Tuckey 
growing on the open plains near the extreme point 
of his journey, and far beyond where any Euro- 
peans had advanced. This fruit, therefore, as well 
as the bananas, the one being from the West, the 
other from the East-Indies, (or both perhaps from 
the West^) must have been carried up into the in- 
terior by the natives^ The only beverage used by 
the inhabitants, except when they can get Euro- 
pean spirits, is the juice of the palm tree, of which 
there are three distinct species. It is usually 
known by the name of palm wine, and was con- 
sidered by the whole party as a very pleasant and 
wholesome liquor, having a taste, when fresh from 
the tree, not unlike that of sweetish cider; is very 
excellent for quenching the thirst, and for keeping 
the body gently open. When tapped near the top, 
the juice runs copiously out during the night, but 
very little is said to exude in the day-time. One 
of the species yields a juice sweeter than the rest, 
and this being suffered to ferment, is said to pro- 
duce a liquor of a very intoxicating quality. The 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 365 

trees are remarkably tall, and are ascended by 
means of a llexible hoop which encloses, at the 
same lime, the body of the person intending; to 
mount and the stem of the tree, against the latter 
of which the (eet are pressed, Avhile the back rests 
against the hoop. At each step the hoop is moved 
upward with the hand, and in this way they ascend 
and descend the highest trees with great expedi- 
tion : should the hoop give way the consequence 
must be fatal. 

They have no want of domestic animals to serve 
them as food, though very little care appears to be 
bestowed on them. They consist chiefly of goats, 
hogs, fowls, the common and Muscovy duck, and 
pigeons; a few sheep, generally black and white, 
with hair instead of wool. The Chenoo of Em- 
bomma had obtained from the Portuguese a few 
horned cattle, but no pains whatever were taken 
to increase the breed. They have no beasts of 
burden of any description. Of wild animals the 
country produces great variety, but the natives 
are too indolent and inexpert to convert them to 
any useful purpose. They have elephants, leo- 
pards, lions, buffaloes, large monkeys with black 
laces, and numerous species of antelopes, with 
which Africa every where abounds; wild hogs, 
porcupines, hares, and a great variety of other 
quadrupeds, from which an active people would 
derive important advantages. Guinea fowl and 
red legged partridges are also abundant, large, 
and fine ; and wild pigeons, of three or four spe- 
cies, very plentiful. 

The country appears to be remarkably free 
from teazing and noxious insects, excepting bugs 
and (leas in the huts, and the black ants, which 
erect those singular mushroom-shaped habitations, 
some of which have two or three domes, and some- 

36 



^§^ GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

times occur in whole villages. The party suffered 
no annoyance from scorpions, scolopendras, mos- 
ehetoes, which are almost universally swarm- 
ing in warm climates. From the abundance of 
bees, and the hills being well clothed with grass, 
Congo might be made a " land flowing with milk 
and honey." 

The lower part of the river abounds with excel- 
lent fish, which would appear to be an important 
article of subsistence to those who inhabit the 
woody banks occupied by the mangrove. Bream, 
mullet and cat-fish are the most abundant. A spe- 
cies of Sparus^ of excellent flavour, w as caught by 
the party in large quantities, each of them weigh- 
ing generally from thirty to forty pounds, and some 
of them even sixty. Mr. Fitzmaurice observes 
that, near Draper's islands, he fell in with three or 
four hundred canoes, in which the people were 
busily employed in dragging up a species of shell- 
fish, which he compares to what is usually in Eng- 
land called the clam, and which is stated by Cap- 
tain Tuckey to be a species of Mya. Most of these 
fishermen, it was thought, had no other abode than 
the shelter which the woods afforded them ; that 
they form a kind of hut by bending and entwining 
the living branches, in the same manner as is some- 
times practised by the roving CafFres bordering on 
the colony of the Cape of Good Hope; others make 
the caverns in the rocks the abodes of themselves 
and families during the fishing season ; for it would 
seem that these huts and retreats were but tempora- 
ry, as the shells of these fish were opened, the animal 
taken out, and dried in the sun. In the upper parts 
of the river, women were frequently seen fishing 
with scoop nets, made from the fibres of some 
creeping plants ; and in one village, a woman was 
observed spinning cotton for nets ; the herbaceous 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 36? 

cotton plant growing every where wild. In some 
places the fish were caught in pots; in others they 
took them by means of a poisonous plant. 

A fish resembling the Silurus elcctricus was 
brought on board the Congo from Embomma, which, 
by the account of the natives, when alive and 
touched, communicates a severe shock to the hand 
and arm, or to use their own expression, " it shoot 
through all the arm." It is thus described by Mr. 
M'Kerrow : length three feet six inches; head large, 
broad and compressed ; mouth furnished with six 
long cirrhi, four on the under and two on the upper 
jaw; mandibles dentated; tongue short, and eyes 
small : body without scales ; pectoral fins near the 
branchial openings, the ventrals near the anus; 
dorsal fin soft, and placed near the tail ; upper 
parts of the body thickly spotted black, and the 
under of a yellowish white ; skin exceedingly 
thick. 

The Zaire swarms with those huge monsters the 
hippopotamus and the alligator, or rather croco- 
dile, (tor it appears to be of the same species as 
the animal of the Nile,) and particularly above 
the narrows. Both these animals seem to be gre- 
garious, the former being generally met with in 
groupesof ten or twelve together; the latter in two 
or three, sometimes five or six. The flesh of the 
hippopotamus is excellent food, not unlike pork; 
but it does not appear that the negroes are par- 
ticularly fond of it, as the only one killed by the 
present party was suffered to putrify on the margin 
of the river; though it is stated that the flesh is 
sometimes sold in the market. One crocodile only 
was killed, whose length was nine feet three inches, 
and girt across the shoulders three (eet seven 
inches. 



368 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

Food, Lodging, Utensils and Clothing. — The 
staple articles of subsistence, at least in the dry 
season, appear to be manioc, ground-nuts, and 
palm wine; to which may probably be added In- 
dian corn and yams, the latter of which are stated 
to be remarkably fine ; and of Indian corn they have 
regularly two crops in the year. Animal food is not in 
general use, though sold in the daily market held at 
banza, or residence of the Chenoo, and at which 
from a hundred to three hundred persons are said 
to assemble ; in this market, the party observed a 
supply of goats, fowls, eggs, besides vegetables, fish^ 
and salt. It must be recollected, however, that 
this place is the grand mart for conducting the slave 
trade of the Zaire, and these supplies may be 
chiefly intended for the crews of the European 
ships. 

The negroes of Congo are exceedingly foul^ 
feeders, and particularly filthy in their preparation 
"aHcT their eating of animal food ; they broil fowls 
with the feathers on, and pieces of goat without 
being at the trouble of removing the skin, or even 
the hair; and they devour them when scarcely 
warmed, tearing the flesh in pieces with their teeth 
in the most disgusting manner. Mr. Fitzmaurice 
relates that one day, as their butcher had taken 
oflfthe skin of a sheep, the Mandingo slave pur- 
chased by Captain Tuckey, had slily conveyed 
away the skin, which, with the wool (or rather the 
hair) he had thrown over a smoky fire, and when 
discovered, he had nearly eaten the whole skin in 
a state scarcely warm. Th^^'?-j3-P^llQi_ap£§ar, 
hLOyveyer, to be the slightest grounds for si3.ppqsing 
that theyLeyer eat human flesh, not even that of 
their enemies, but that all the accusations of this 
nature are totally false. 



CfENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 369 

None of the banzasor villages seen by the party 
were of great extent; the largest probably not ex- 
ceeding^ one hundred liuts. Embomnia, Cooloo, 
^and Inga, are"each the residence of a Chenoo ; the 
first was supposed to consist of about sixty huts, 
exclusive of the Chenoo's enclosure, and about five 
hundred inhabitants; the second, one hundred 
huts, and from fi\e to six hundred inhabitants; and 
the third, being the last in the line of the river 
within the kingdom of Congo, of seventy huts, and 
three hundred inhabitants. The party stationed 
at this banza understood, that the Chenoo could 
command about two hundred fighting men, one 
hundred of whom he can arm with muskets ; and 
with this force he conceives himself to be the 
dread and terror of his enemies. These banzas 
are usually placed amidst groves of palms and 
adansonias* 

The huts in general consist of six pieces, closely 
woven or matted together, from a reedy grass, or 
the fibres of some plant ; the two sides exactly cor- 
responding; the two ends the same, excepting that 
in one is the door Way, an opening just large 
enough to creep in at, and the two sloping sides of 
the roof also correspond. The sides and ends are 
made fast to upright posts stuck in the ground ; 
and the two pieces ol the roof are bound to the 
sides, and also to each other; and as each piece is 
very light, a house can, at any time, be removed 
from one situation to another with great ease ; 
sometimes the roofs are semicircular. The value 
of one of these moveable houses is stated to be not 
more than the price of five or six fowls, and in five 
minutes may be put together. Permanent houses, 
however, such as those of the Chenoo, are made of 
the palm leaves with considerable skill, having 



:i70 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

several posts along the sides and ends, and covered 
externally with the blades or back rib of the palm 
leaf, bound together with a creeping plant in regu- 
lar zigzag figures. They are also generally en- 
closed within a fence of reeds matted together. 

Their household utensils are very few, and assim- 
ple as the houses themselves. Baskets made of the 
fibres of the palm tree ; bowls and bottles of gourds 
or calabashes, or of the shejl of the monkey bread- 
fruit (Adansonia) to h0ld their provisions and 
water, earthen vessels of their own making to boil 
their victuals, and wooden spoons tq^eatJhfiiiL; a 
mat of grass thrown on a raised platfonn of palm- 
leaves, their only bedding. The articles of dress 
are equally sparing and simple, the common people 
being satisfied with a small apron tied round their 
loins, of a piece of baft, if they can get it, or of native 
grass-matting, made by the men ; of the same grass 
they make caps, whose surface is raised and figured 
in a very beautiful manner, and the texture so close 
that they will hold water. Rings of brass or iron 
are welded on the arms and ankles, and sometimes 
bracelets of lion's teeth ; and the women generally 
contrive to have strings of beads round their necks 
and arms and legs, and in default of these, strings 
of the cowrie shell, or of the round seeds of various 
plants. 

Their canoes are generally hollowed out of the 
trunk of the bombax or cotton tree, or of a species 
of ficus, the common size being about twenty-four 
feet in length, and from eighteen to twenty inches 
in width ; and they are all pushed forwards with 
long paddles, the men standing upright ; they use 
neither sails, nor any substitute for them. 

A rude hoe of iron, stuck into a wooden handle, 
is the implement used for agricultural purposes; 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 371 

but Ae climate is so fine, that, by merely scratch- 
ing the surface of the ground, ihey succeed in 
raising good crops. The great scarcity of provi- 
sions, experienced by the party who proceeded up 
the river, was occasioned entirely by the long 
drought, and that want of precaution in laying up 
a stock against such a contingency, which, it would 
seem, is here rather the effect of indolence and 
thoughtlessness, than any distrust in the right and 
security of property ; which indeed is so well un- 
derstood, that almost all the disputes among the 
natives arise from their tenacity in the division of 
property, whether in land or stock. This partici- 
pation is frequently so minute, that, as Captain 
Tuckey observes, a fowl or a pig may sometimes 
have three or four proprietors. 

Population and Condition of the People. — 
Though the population evidently increased, the 
farther the party proceeded into the interior, the 
banks of the river were but thinly inhabited in the 
very best and most productive parts ; and nothing 
appeared that could give the least colour to those 
exaggerated statements of the Catholic missiona- 
ries, who speak of such masses of men collected 
together as are not to be met with in the most po- 
pulous parts of Europe. Carli, for instance, states 
the " Grand Duke's" army to amount to 160,000 
men; and he accounts for the vast population of 
Congo from the indulgence of every man being 
allowed to take as many wives as he pleases, and 
the absence of all those religious institutions and 
societies which, in Europe, consign their members 
to a state of celibacy. Nay, we are told, that 
the king, Don Antonio, could muster an army of 
900,000 men, anllliat he actually brouirht ni\000 
against the Portuguese, who with 400 Europoane 
and 2000 negroes, with the help of the Virgin 



372 GENERAL OBSERVATIONB. 

Marj, easily put to rout this great force, dethroned 
the king, and set up a new one of their own. 
Whether such a population ever existed, or if so, 
what became of it ; whether wars, pestilence, or 
famine, swept those vast multitudes away, or whe- 
ther their progeny were sent off to other lands, 
the Portuguese, who best could tell, have been 
silent on the subject ; it is quite clear, however, 
that no such population exists at the present day. 

Leaving out the paramount sovereign of Congo, 
whose existence seems to be rather doubtful, the 
component parts of a tribe or society, would ap- 
pear to consist of — 1. the Chenoo ; 2. the members 
of his family ; 3. the Mafooks ; 4. Foomos ; 5. fish- 
ermen, coolies and labouring people ; 6. domestic 
slaves. 

The title and authority of the Chenoo are he- 
reditary, through the female line, as a precaution 
to make certain of the blood royal in the succes- 
sion ; for although the number of the Chenoo's 
wives is unlimited, none but the offspring of her 
who is descended from royal blood, can inherit; 
and in default of issue from any such, the offspring 
of any other princess married to a private person, 
lays claim to the chiefship, and the consequences 
are such as might be expected; feuds and civil 
broils arise, which terminate only in the destruc- 
tion of the weaker party. A Chenoo's daughter 
has the privilege of choosing her own husband, 
and the person she fixes upon is not at liberty to 
refuse ; but it is a perilous distinction which is thus 
conferred upon him, as she has also the privilege 
of disposing of him into slavery, in the event of 
his not answering her expectations. Aware of his 
ticklish situation, he is sometimes induced to get 
the start of her, and by the help of some poison- 
ous mixture, with the efficacy of which the people 



GENERAX. OBSERV^ATIONS. 373 

of Congo are well acquainted, rids himself of his 
wife and his fears at the same time. 

When a Chenoo appears abroad, one of his great 
officers carries before iiim his sceptre or staff of 
authority, which is a small baton of black wood 
about a foot in length, inlaid with lead or copper, 
like the worm of a screw, and crossed Avith a 
second screw, so as to form the figures of rhom- 
boids. What their native dresses may be beyond 
the sphere of communication with European slave- 
dealers, is not exactly known, but little more pro- 
bably than an apron of some skin-cloth, or grass- 
matting; the lion's skin to sit upon, was said to be 
sacred to the Chenoo, the touching of which by 
the foot of a common person is death or slavery. 
From the cataract downwards, the ridiculous cast- 
ofT dresses of French and Portuguese generals, 
form no part of the native costume of Congo, which, 
with the exception of an apron, anklets, bracelets, 
and necklaces, may be presumed to be neither 
more nor less than sheer nakedness. 

The members of the Chenoo's family are his 
councillors, by whose advice he acts in all matters 
of importance ; and it is remarkable, that their 
consultations are generally held under the boughs 
of the ficus religiosa. In case of war, the elders 
remain behind to take care of the village, while 
the brothers, sons, or nearest relations of the 
Chenoo are usually selected to conduct, under him, 
their warlike expeditions. 

The Mafooks are the collectors of the revenues, 
which are chiefly derived from trade; towards the 
lower part of the river, they begin by acting as 
linguists or interpreters between the slave-dealers 
of the interior, and the Europom purchasers; but 
having made a fortune, which was frequently the 
case in this once lucrative employment, they pur- 

37 



374 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 

chase the rank of Mafook, and from that moment 
are said to be dumb, and utterly unable any longer 
to interpret. 

The Foomos are composed of that class of the 
society who have houses and lands of their own, 
two or three wives, and perhaps a slave or two to 
work for them ; they are in fact the yeomanry of 
the country. 

The fishermen, coolies and labouring people 
appear to consist of those who have no fixed pro- 
perty of their own, but act as the labourers and 
peasantry of the country, and are very much at 
the disposal of the Chenoo or chief, though not 
slaves. 

Domestic slaves do not appear to be numerous, 
and are not considered as common transferable 
property, and only sold for some great offence, and 
by order of the council, when proved guilty. 
Saleable slaves are those unhappy victims who 
have been taken prisoners in war, or kidnapped in 
the interior by the slave-catchers, for the sake of 
making a profit of them ; or such as have had a 
sentence of death commuted into that of foreign 
slavery. 

The Slave Tr^de. — The banks of the Zaire are 
not the part of Africa where the slave trade, at 
present, is carried on with the greatest activity, 
though there were three Portuguese schooners and 
four pinnaces at Embomma, on the arrival of the 
expedition. The two great vents are the Gulf of 
Guinea to the northward, and Loango and Ben- 
guela to the southward of this river. The chiefs 
and their Mafooks were, however, all prepared to 
trade on the appearance of the ships, and much 
disappointed on learning that the object of the ex- 
pedition was of a very different nature. 1 hey had 
heard at Embomma, over-land from tlie coast, some 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 375 

vague rumours concerning the nature of the expe- 
dition, Avhich they tlid not well comprehend ; and 
when the Mafook of the Chenoo first came on board, 
he was very inquisitive to know, w hether the ships 
came to make trade, or make war ; and when he 
was distinctly told that the object was neither the 
one nor tlie other, he asked, " what then come 
for ; only to take walk and make book ?" 

As it would appear, that the state of slavery is a 
condition inherent in the principles on which the 
society of every negro tribe is founded, the grada- 
tion from domestic to foreign slavery is so easy, 
that as long as a single door remains open for dis- 
posing of human beings, it is to be feared, that very 
little progress has actually been made towards the 
abolition of this disgraceful and inhuman traffic, 
ft is of little use to dam up the mouths of the Sene- 
gal and the Gambia, and turn the current into the 
channels of Lagos, Formosa, Calabar and Cama- 
roons ; or to stop up these vents, while the Zaire, 
the Coanza, and the Guberoro remain open. The 
prolonged march of the kafilas over-land may 
somewhat increase the prices to the purchaser, 
and prolong the misery of the slave, but the trade 
itself w ill not be much diminished on that account; 
while there is but too much reason to fear, that the 
passage across the Atlantic will be attended with 
circumstances of aggravated cruelty and inhuman- 
ity. Indeed nothing short of a total and unquali- 
fied prohibition of the traffic by every power in 
Europe and America, can affi^rd the least hope for 
a total abolition of the foreign trade ; and even then, 
there is but too much reason to believe, that the 
Mahomedan powc-rs of Egypt and northern Africa 
will extend their traffic to the central regions of 
Soudan, which in fact, since the nominal abolition, 
has very considerably increased in those (quarters. 



376 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

State of Society. — The state of society among 
the negro nations seems to be pretty nearly the 
same, and their moral character not very different ; 
the people of Congo would appear, however, to be 
among the lowest of the negro tribes. The African 
black is by nature of a kindly, cheerful, and humane 
disposition, entirely free from that quick, vengeful 
and ferocious temper which distinguishes the sav- 
ages of the Pacific and South Sea Islands, particu- 
larly those of New Guinea, which most resemble 
the negroes in external appearance. Contented 
with very humble fare, his happiness seems to con- 
sist in a total relaxation from all bodily exertion ,; 
excepting when animated by the sound of his rude 
native music calling him to the dance, in which he 
is always ready to join with the greatest alacrity. 
But indolence is the negro's bane ; and until some 
strong motive for shaking it off shall take possession 
of his mind, and convince him of the utility of in- 
dustrious pursuits, by bettering his condition, little 
hope can be entertained of the civilization of 
Africa, even should a total and radical abolition of 
the slave trade be effected. The vast shoals of 
Catholic missionaries poured into Congo and the 
neighbouring parts of Southern Africa, from Italy, 
Spain, and Portugal, in the sixteenth and seven- 
teenth centuries, appear not to have advanced the 
natives one single step in civilization ; and the rude 
mixture of Catholic with Pagan superstitions, which 
were found among the Sognio people on the left 
bank of the Zaire, close to the sea coast, was all 
that could be discovered of any trace of Christian- 
ity, after the labours of these pious men for three 
hundred years. Some of these people came off to 
the vessels, and they are represented as being the 
yery worst in every respect of all the tribes that 
were met with on the banks^of the river, being 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 377 

dirty, filthy, and overrun with vermin. One of 
them was a priest, who had been ordained by the 
Capuchin monks of Loando, and carried with him 
his diploma, or letters of ordination ; he could just 
write his name, and that of St. Antonio, and read 
the Romish litany ; but so little was he of a Catho- 
lic, that his rosary, his relics, and his crosses were 
mixed with his domestic fetiches ; and so indiffer- 
ent a Christian, that this " bare-footed black apos- 
tle," as Dr. Smith calls him, boasted of his having 
no fewer than five wives. 

Captain Tuckey seems to think that the plan of 
sending a few negroes to be educated in Europe, 
for the purpose of returning to instruct their coun- 
trymen, is as little likely to succeed, as that of send- 
ing missionaries among them ; and that coloniza- 
tion holds out the only prospect of meliorating their 
civil and moral condition. How far this might suc- 
ceed with the negroes, remains to be tried ; in all 
other countries, inhabited by a savage or half-civil- 
ized people, extirpation has followed close on the 
heels of colonization. The unconquerable avidity 
for spirituous liquors on the part of the savages, 
and the same propensity for their possessions on 
that of the colonists, have produced contentions, 
encroachmenis and spoliation, which terminate in- 
variably to the detriment of the natives, and too 
frequently to their utter extermination. It might 
at the same time be well worth the experiment, of 
prevailing on a few of the Moravian missionaries to 
settle themselves in a negro village, to instruct the 
natives in the useful arts of agriculture, manufac- 
tures and trade; to make them feel the comfort.-^ 
and advantages of acquiring a surplus property ; to 
instil into their minds sound moral precepts ; and 
to divert their attention from their gross and sense- 



I 



378 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

less superstitions to the mild and rational princi- 
ples and precepts of the Christian religion. 

The worst feature in the negro character, which 
is a very common one among all savage tribes, is 
the little estimation in which the female sex is 
held; or, rather their esteeming them in no other 
way than as contributing to their pleasures, and to 
their sloth. Yet, if this was the extent to which 
female degradation was subject, some palliation 
might perhaps be found in the peculiar circum- 
stances of the state of the society ; but the open and 
barefaced manner in which both wives and daugh= 
ters were offered for hire, from the Chenoo or 
chief, to the private gentleman^ to any and all of the 
persons belonging to the expedition, was too dis- 
gusting to admit of any excuse. Some of the Che- 
noos had no less than fifty wives or women, and 
the Mafooks from ten to twenty, any of which 
they seemed ready to dispose of, for the time, to 
their white visiters; and the women most com- 
monly, as may well be supposed, were equally 
ready to ofler themselves, and greatly offended 
when their offer was not accepted. It would seem, 
however, that whether they are lent out by their 
tyrants, or on their own accord, the object is 
solely that of obtaining the w^ages of prostitution ; 
the heart and the passions had no share in the 
transaction. It is just possible, that this facility 
in transferring women to the embraces of stran- 
gers, is confined to those parts of the country 
where they have had communication with Euro- 
peans, who have encouraged such connexions; 
though it must be admitted that, on the present 
occasion, very little difference, in this respect, 
appears to have been observed on the part of the 
women, in places beyond where slave dealers are 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 37^ 

in the habit of visiting. Captain Tuckey, how- 
ever, says, that in no one instance, beyond Em- 
bomma, did they find the men allont en avant in 
their offer of the v^ omen ; but the Embomma men 
said, falsely it is to be hoped, that it was only 
their ig^norance, and the little intercourse they 
had with white men, that prevented it ; and that 
any of them would think themselves honoured by 
giving up his wife or daughter to a white man. 

No such licentious conduct it would seem is 
sanctioned among themselves ; where natives are 
the only parties concerned, an intrigue with an- 
other man's wife entails slavery on both the offen- 
ders; and if the wife of a Chenoo should go astray, 
he inflicts what punishment he may think fit on the 
lady, but the paramour must suffer death. Mr. 
Fitzmaurice states, that an instance of this kind 
occurred while he was stationed at Embomma. 
The man was first carried to Sherwood, the mate 
of a slave ship then trading in the river, and offer- 
ed to him for sale; but on being rejected, those 
who had charge of him bound his hands and feet, 
and, without further ceremony, threw him info 
the river. 

Moral and Physical Character. — It is a strange 
inconsistency of human feeling that, in all unculti- 
vated societies, the weaker sex should be doomed 
to perform the most laborious drudgery. In Congo, 
the cultivation of the land, and the search after 
food in the woods and on the plains, frequently the 
catching of fish, devolve wholly on the women ; 
while the men either saunter about, or idle away 
the time in laying at full length on the ground, or 
in stringing beads, or sleeping in tlieir huts: if em- 
ployed at all, it is in weaving little mats or caps, a 
kind of light work more appropriate to the other 
sex, or in strumming on some musical instrument. 



380 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

Their indolent disposition, however, does not 
prevent them from indulging an immoderate fond- 
ness for dancing, more especially on moon-light 
nights. No feats of activity are displayed in this 
species of amusement, vrhich consists chiefly in 
various motions of the arms and gesticulations of 
the body, not altogether the most decent. The 
pleasure it affords is announced by hearty peals of 
laughter. They are also fond of singing, but it is 
only a monotonous drawling of the voice, not very 
well calculated to delight the ears of the auditors. 
Their musical instruments are, a sort of guitar or 
lyre of the rudest kind, horns, shells, and drums ; 
and sometimes calabashes filled with small stones 
to make a rattling noise. They have songs on love, 
war, hunting, palm wine, and a variety of subjects, 
some of which have been attempted to be written 
down and translated by Captain Tuckey, but in so 
imperfect a manner and so much defaced, as not 
to admit of being made out. 

In all the memoranda of the gentlemen employ- 
ed on the expedition, the natives of Congo are re- 
presented as a lively and good-humoured race of 
men, extremely hospitable to strangers, and always 
ready to share their pittance, sometimes scanty 
enough, with the passing visiter. In one of the 
notes only, they are characterized as shrewd, cun- 
ning, and thievish. Men living in a state of society 
like theirs, have occasion for all their shrewdness 
and cunning; but with respect to their thievish 
propensity, though common to almost all savage 
and half-civilized tribes, the testimony of Captain 
Tuckey is rather in favour of their honesty. It is 
true, that when returning down the river in a sickly 
and helpless condition, and in great haste and 
anxiety to reach the vessels, some trifling advan- 
tage was taken to pilfer part of their baggage ; but 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 381 

it is in favour of these people that, considering all 
the circumstances of the distressed situation of 
the party, they were able to bring away with them 
any part of their scattered property. 

The stature of the men of Congo is that of the 
middle size, and their features, though nearest to 
those of the negro tribe, are neither so stronj^ly 
marked, nor so black as the Africans are in gene- 
ral. They are not only represented as being more 
pleasing, but also as wearing the appearance of 
great simplicity and innocence. Captain Tuckey 
c!ould not discover among the people any national 
physiognomy; but few mulattoes; and many had 
the features of southern Europeans. The disco- 
very, by the party, of burnt bones, and of human 
skulls hanging from trees, might have led to the 
injurious idea of their being addicted to the eating 
of human flesh, had no further inquiries been made 
concerning them : accounts of cannibalism have 
been inferred by travellers on appearances no bet- 
ter founded than these ; and it is probable, that the 
many idle stories repeated by the Capuchin and 
other missionaries to Congo, of the Giagas and 
Anzicas, their immediate neighbours, delighting in 
human flesh, may have had no other foundation 
than their fears worked upon by the stories of the 
neighbouring tribes, who always take care to re- 
present one another in a bad light, and usually fix 
upon cannibalism as the worst. 

Superstitions. — Ignorance has always been ac- 
counted the prolific mother of superstition. Those 
of the negroes of Congo would be mere subjects of 
ridicule, if they were harmless to society; which 
however is not the case. Every man has his fetiche, 
and some at least a dozen, being so many tutelary 
deities, against every imaginable evil that may be- 
fall them. The word is Portuguese, feitico^ and 
signifies a charm, witchcraft, magic, &c.; and what 

38 



382 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



is remarkable enough, it is in universal use among 
all the negro tribes of the Western Coast. 

There is nothing so vile in nature, that does not 
serve for a negro's fetiche ; the horn, the hoof, the 
hair, the teeth, and the bones of all manner of 
quadrupeds ; the feathers, beaks, clavs^s, skulls, and 
bones of birds; the heads and skins of snakes; 
the shells and fins of fishes ; pieces of old iron, 
copper, w^ood, seeds of plants, and sometimes a 
mixture of all, or most of them, strung together. 
In the choice of a fetiche, they consult certain per- 
sons v^hom they call fetiche-men, who may be con- 
sidered to form a kind of priesthood, the members 
of which preside at the altar of superstition. As 




GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 383 

a specimen of these senseless appendages to the 
dress, and the dwelhng of every negro, the preced- 
ing represents one which the wearer considered as 
an infallihle charm against poison ; the materials 
are, an European padlock, in the iron of which 
they have contrived to bury a cowrie shell and 
various other matters, the bill of a bird, and the 
head of a snake ; these are suspended from a ro- 
sary consisting of the beans of a species o^ dolichos^ 
strung alternately with the seeds of some other 
plant. Others, with some little variation, are con- 
sidered as protections against the effects of thun- 
der and lightning, against the attacks of the alliga- 
tor, the hippopotamus, snakes, lions, tigers, &:c. &;c. 
And if it should so happen, as it sometimes does, 
that in spite of his guardian genius, the wearer 
should perish by the very means against which he 
had adopted it as a precaution, no blame is ascribed 
to any negligence or want of virtue on the part of 
the fetiche, but to some offence given to it, by the 
possessor, for which it has permitted the punish- 
ment. On this account, when a man is about to 
commit a crime, or do that which his conscience 
tells him he ought not to do, he lays aside his fe- 
tiche, and covers up his deity, that he may not be 
privy to the deed. Some of the persons of the 
expedition showed to one of the chief men a mao- 
net, which he said was very bad fetiche for black 
man ; he was too lively and had too much savcij. 

This would be all well enough, if an opinion of 
their virtues in warding off evil affected ordy them- 
selves ; and they might even be useful when con- 
sidered as a guard upon their actions; but their 
influence does not stop here; they are considered 
in one sense as a kind of deity, to whom prayers 
are addressed for their assistance, and if afforded, 
thanksgivings are returned; for the honour of the 



384 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

fetiche also, abstinence is performed, and penal- 
ties inflicted ; but if unsuccessful in any enterprise 
on which the fetiche has been consulted, the 
owner immediately parts with him, and purchases 
another from the priest. These cunning men have 
gone a step further, and have succeeded in per- 
suading the silly people, that by their means, any 
part of a man's property may be fetiched or made 
sacred, in the same manner, or nearly so, as the 
tabboo^ which is so universally practised in all the 
Pacific and South Sea islands; and their mode of 
detecting a thief, bears a very remarkable resem- 
blance to that which Campbell describes to be used 
among the people of the Sandwich islands. 

But the evil does not end here. Mr. Fitzmau- 
rice, while he stopped at Banza Cooloo, was wit- 
ness to a transaction, wdiich will best explain the 
ill effects of these senseless superstitions. A woman 
had been robbed of some manioc and ground nuts; 
she applied to a gangam or priest for a fetiche, 
which would compel the robber to restore the pro- 
perty; and the manner of doing it is as follows. 
The fetiche being exposed in some public place, 
the people of the village dance round it, and w^ith 
the most hideous bowlings invoke it to produce 
the thief, or to direct that within a certain time, 
and at a certain place, he shall deposite the stolen 
goods, in failure of which, that this newly created 
divinity will be pleased to destroy both him and 
his relations. If at the expiration of the time, 
which is usually two days, the property is not re- 
stored, the fetiche is removed, and the first person 
of the village who dies, is considered to be the 
thief It usually happens, that the goods are re- 
stored, but this was not the case in the present 
instance. The morning after the removal of the 
fetiche, the most dismal bowlings were heard in 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. ;:J85 

the village, and, on sending the interpreter to in- 
quire into the cause, he returned and reported, 
that the fetiche had killed the thief, and that the 
noise proceeded from the relations mourning over 
the body. '' The deceased," says Mr. Fitzmau- 
rice, '^had been one of my coolies, and was a fine 
strong young man, apparently about twenty-four 
years of age. I had seen him the preceding even- 
ing walking about in good health, which, together 
with the circumstance of his having died in con- 
vulsions, leads me to suspect that, rather than suf- 
fer the efficacy of the fetiche to be questioned, 
the priest had selected this poor fellow as the vic- 
tim to his imposture, and had contrived to send 
him out of the world by poison; an opinion in 
which I am the more confirmed, from the relations 
of the deceased having found it necessary to pre- 
sent the priest with a larger quantity of manioc 
and nuts than what had been stolen, a necessary 
precaution, as my interpreter assures me, to pre- 
serve their own lives." 

The following circumstance, which passed be- 
tween Mr. Fitzmaurice and his friend the Chenoo 
t)fthe village, is a curious trait of simplicit}^ or 
cunning in the manners of these people. Thif^ 
Chenoo had boasted of a war fetiche, which if any 
one attempted to shoot at, the flint would fall out, 
and the person so attempting would fall down 
dead. On Mr. Fizmaurice and Mr. Hodder ex- 
pressing a w ish to have a shot at this redoubtable 
deity, he observed, that he loved them too much to 
let them try ; on telling him, however, that if, on 
firing, they missed it, or if they sustained any 
harm, they would give him a whole piece of baft 
and two bottles of brandy, his fears for their safety 
immediately vanished before the prospect of gain, 
and he consented j six yards was the distance 



386 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

measured off! The fetiche was the figure of a man 
rudely carved in wood and covered with rags, 
about two feet high, and one foot broad, and the 
time appointed was the following morning. In the 
course of the evening, the interpreter, who had a 
great regard for the strangers, appeared extremely 
sad and pensive, and being asked the cause, re- 
plied, that he very much feared his good masters 
were going to die, and entreated in the most urgent 
manner, that they would give the baft and brandy, 
and let the fetiche alone. Being absent for some 
time, he said, on his return, that he had been at the 
village ; that the King and his nobles were holding 
a palaver, whether they should venture the fetiche 
or not, and that they had asked him, whether he 
thought white men would dare fire at it, and on 
his answering in the affirmative, they exclaimed, 
"mindeele zaambie m'poonga," white men are 
gods." The Chenoo made his appearance the fol- 
lowing morning, but without the fetiche, and was 
very desirous to see the fowling piece fired,in which 
he was gratified, and on perceiving the ball strike 
the mark fired at, he seemed very much astonish- 
ed, and went away without saying a word. In the 
evening he returned, with nearly the whole of the 
inhabitants; begged they would not think of firing 
at his fetiche, for if they should hit it, and this was 
known to the neighbouring Chenoos, they would 
all make war upon him immediately ; an entreaty 
which was uttered with so much real anxiety in 
his countenance as to leave no doubt of his being 
in earnest. 

Besides the individual fetiches which are select- 
ed by a priest, or by the caprice of the wearer, 
various striking objects of nature are held in gene- 
ral estimation. The Taddi Enzazzi, or lightning 
^tone, and the fetisch rock, are objects of this kind. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS, 3^7 

The latter is considered as the peculiar residence 
of Seembi, the spirit which presides over the river. 
On the side of some rocks inhabited by fisher- 
men, round the point of Soonda, are a number of 
raised figures, formed apparently with sand and 
ashes, and laid on wet, which, when indurated, ap- 
pear like stone sculptured in low relief Some 
of those figures were copied by Lieutenant Haw- 
key, respecting which, he observes, that he could 
not learn, from any inquiries he was able to make, 
whether they had any connexion with the reli- 
gious notions of the people, though they went by 
the name of fetiches. They were said to be the 
work of a learned priest of Nokki, who taught 
the art to all those who chose to pay him. 

In several other places, figures of a similar kind 
w^ere met with, cut into the face of the slaty rock, 
or into wood, or on the surface of the gourds or 
pumpions, most of which had something of the 
fetiche or sacred character attached to them. They 
have some vague notion of a future paradise, in 
which they shall all be happy ; they also entertain 
some idea of a good and an evil principle ; the 
former is distinguished by the name of Zamba 
MToonga; the latter by thatof Caddee M'Peemba; 
but they seem to pay more veneration to, and to 
feel a greater dread of, their substantial fetiches, 
than these imaginary personages. 

The most inoffensive part of their superstitions 
is the respect which they show to the dead ; and 
absurd as it may appear, a veneration for deceased 
friends and relations is always a favourable trait 
in the character of a people. Those who can 
afford, and they omit no endeavours to obtain it, 
cover the dead bodies of their relations with many 
folds of clothing, and keep them above ground, till, 
from the quantity of wrappers added from time to 
time, they hare arrived at an immense bulk ; in 



358 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS, 

this state they are then deposited in a hut ; they 
mourn their loss at stated times of the day with 
howlings and lamentations ; and at length they bury 
them in graves of vast depth, with the view pro- 
bably of preventing the possibility of their being 
scratched up by beasts of prey ; they plant trees 
and shrubs round the graves, and like the Welsh 
and the Chinese, decorate them with flowers, or 
place fetiches upon them. An elephant's tusk 
placed at the head and another at the foot, mark the 
grave as belonging to a person of some distinction. 

Crimes and Punishments. — The only capital 
crimes are stated to be those of poisoning and 
adultery ; the latter of which is singular enough, 
considering in what little estimation w^omen are 
held. Murder and theft are punished by retalia- 
tion and restitution, or selling the criminal into 
slavery. The Gangam and his Kissey are the 
grand jury who find the bill, but the accused 
undergoes a trial by ordeal before the elders 
of the community. He is made to chew a cer- 
tain poisonous bark ; if guilty, he keeps it in his 
stomach, and it occasions his death ; if innocent, he 
throws it up again, and he is acquitted of the 
charge ; and thus the guilt or innocence of a man 
is made to depend on the strength of his stomach. 
The practice of poisoning is so common, that the 
master of a slave always makes him taste his 
cooked victuals before he ventures to eat of them 
himself 

Diseases and Remedies. — The natives in general 
appeared to be healthy ; the diseases under which 
they mostly laboured, were of the cutaneous kind, 
few being free from the itch, and scrofula ; leprosy, 
and elephantiasis were observed, and some few 
cases of fever and fluxes occurred. They ap- 
peared to be subject also to indolent tumours, and 
most of them were observed to have large navels. 



GENE11A.L OBSERVATIONS. 389 

xlmong the people of the neighbouring towns who 
came (loun to Inga to see the white men that were 
stationed there, a Mafook brought with him his 
daughter, a girl of about twelve years of age, 
whose skin was perfectly white, but of a pale sickly 
colour, tho6gh the father said she was quite stout 
and healthy ; she had curly hair and negro fea- 
tures. 

The only medicines used by them, and those 
but sparingly, are infusions and decoctions of 
native plants ; and among others the root of a 
species of dioscorea, of a very strong bitter taste, 
is very much chewed by them as a preventive of 
fluxes ; but the Gangam Kissey and various fetiches 
are mostly resorted to for the cure of diseases ; and 
when the Gangam, who acts in the threefold capa- 
city of priest, public accuser, and physician, sees 
the case to be desperate, he gives the patient over 
to Zamba M'Poonga. 

It is not easy to conceive for what purpose the 
shoals of missionaries were sent among the Congo 
negroes, nor in what manner they passed their 
time in the country. Their accounts are filled with 
the multitudes they baptised, and they baptised all 
Avho offered themselves ; but it is a very extraor- 
dinary fact, that they should not have instructed 
some of them to read and write. No trace of any 
such instruction appeared along the banks of the 
Zaire, except in the instance before mentioned ; 
nor did it appear that they had any mode of regis- 
tering time or events, except by the moon, and in 
this way only for a very few years. 

Language. — The language of the Conge and the 
neighbouring states, diilers very materially from all 
the known languages of the negroes of northern 
Africa ; but from the copious vocabularies obtained 
by Captain Tuckev, there would seem to be a 

39 



390 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

radical affinity between all the languages on tlic 
western coast of Southern Africa, and that these 
languages have pervaded the greater part of that 
portion of the Continent, and extended even to the 
eastern coast. 

The letter of Mr. Marsden, referred to in Cap- 
tain Tuckey's instructions, contains some curious 
information on this subject ; as w^ell as some re- 
marks on the language in general, which may be 
useful to future travellers ; the following is an ex- 
tract from it. 

" Knowing so little, as we do, of the countries 
" on the banks of the Zaire (which I observe is 
" also called by D'Anville, the Barbela river), few 
" particular instructions can be given, regarding 
" the language spoken in that quarter ; and it will 
" depend upon Captain Tuckey to avail himself of 
" the information that circumstances may place 
" within his reach. In most cases the opportunity 
" will be little more than that of collecting a few 
" of the most common words, which may, however, 
" be sufficient to show whether the people speak- 
" ing them, have or have not an original connexion 
" with others geographically and politically sepa- 
" rated from them ; and comparisons of this kind 
" will be much facilitated by having uniform lists^ 
" which not only suggest the proper words at the 
" moment of inquiry, but place them mechanically 
" beside each other. Where a longer residence 
*' admits of freer intercourse, and the means of ac- 
" quiring a more perfect knowledge of the lan- 
" guage, it will be desirable, besides attempting to 
*' fill up the larger vocabulary,* that pains should 
" be taken to examine its grammatical structure, 
" and to ascertain, for instance, how the nomina- 
^* tive and subjunctive words in a sentence are 

* A printed selection of English words. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 391 

^ placed with respect to the verb ; how the adjec- 
" tive with regard to the substantive ; how plurals 
** and degrees of comparison are formed ; whether 
" there is any kind of inflexion or variation of syl- 
" lables of the same word according to its position 
" in the sentence and connexion with other words ; 
" whether the pronouns personal vary according to 
" the rank or sex of the person addressing or per- 
*^ son addressed ; and whether they are incorpo- 
" rated with the verb ; and to observe any other 
" peculiarities of idiom, that the language may 
" present; noting the degree of softness, harsh- 
'• ness, indistinctness, intonation, guttural sounds, 
•' and the prevalence or deficiency of any particu- 
" lar letters of the alphabet, as we should term 
" them, such as R and F. The extent of country, 
" over which a language is understood to prevail, 
" should also be a subject of investigation ; and, 
" by what others it is bounded at every side. Also, 
'' whether there may not be a correct language of 
" communication between nations, whose proper 
" languages are distinct. 

" I observe that the name of Congo belongs to 
" the country on the southern side of the Zaire ; 
♦' and that Loango, Kokongo, N'Goio, Tomba, and 
" N'Teka, are the names of kingdoms or districts 
" on the northern side. The specimens I have of 
« the language of Loango (apparently the most 
" considerable of these) shows it to be radically 
" the same with that of Congo, although, as dia- 
•' lects, they vary a great deal. It will probably 
" be found, that this is the case with regard to the 
" others also ; and I am the more inclined to be- 
" lieve the language very general in that part of 
^' Africa from the following circumstance : I had 
" formerly a negro servant from Mosambique, who 
*' came by the way of Bombay to Bencoolen, and 



392 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. - 



having taken down from his mouth the words of 
his native tongue, I was afterwards much sur- 
prised to find them correspond, in many in- 
stances, not only with the language of the CafFers, 
as given by Sparrman, but more especially with 
that of Congo, as will be seen on comparing a 
fcAv of the words of the latter, as given by Ben- 
jamin (the Congo black) with those taken from 
my servant. 



English. 

Three. 



Congo. 

Tatoo. 



Mosamhiquc. 

Atatoo. 
Kuffii 



Kafft'. 



r. 

Muntu. 

Muke. 

Mo-guru. 

Riubu. 

Kufoa. 

Madje. 



Ten. Coomy. 

Four. Me-sana. Sanu. 

Man. Momtoo. 

Woman. Makaintu. 

Foot. Cooloo. 

Day. Booboo. 

Dead. Cufoy. 

Water. Maza. Madje. Maazi. 

" But it was not my intention to have gone into 
^' this detail; the fact, however, is very curious. 
" the distance being so considerable." 

It is sufficiently remarkable, however, that while 
this agreement is found between the languages of 
tribes so very distant from each other, so great a 
difference should prevail in different parts of the 
same district, and at so short a distance, as 
appears by the Vocabulary (Appendix), collect- 
ed and filled up by Captain Tuckey; the first 
column of which are the words of the Malemba 
language, on the coast and near the mouth of the 
river, the second those of Embomma; and it is 
stated that the language beyond Inga differed very 
considerably from that of Embomma. 

Mr. Marsden, who obligingly furnished the list 
of English words in a printed form, and whose ex- 
tensive knowledge of languages, stamps a value on 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 393 

any opinion he may give on that subject, has com- 
municated the following observations on Captain 
Tuckey's vocabulary. 

" The very copious and apparently accurate 
•' vocabulary of the Congo language, collected by 
•' Captain Tuckey, has furnished the means of 
'* comparison with the other languages and dialects 
" prevailing in the southern portion of Africa, and 
•' has thereby served to establish the fact of an in- 
" timate connexion between the races of people 
" inhabiting the western and the eastern coasts 
•' of the peninsula ; although in that parallel, its 
" breadth is little less than thirty degrees of lon- 
•' gitude. 

"Upon selecting some of the most famihar 
" terms, and comparing them with the specimens 
•' we possess, it will be seen, in the first place, that 
" the words as written down by Captain Tuckey, 
•' from the mouths of the natives of Congo^ agree ge- 
•* nerally w ith those given by Brusciotto, Olden- 
'' dorp, and Hervas ; allowance being made for the 
" differences of European orthography. They 
•' also correspond with those of the neighbouring 
''' countries of Loango and Jlngola^ with some 
•' variety of labial pronunciation; and less perfect- 
" ly with the languages of the Mandongo (not to be 
•• confounded with the Jllcmdinga of Northern Af- 
•' rica) and the Camba people ; both of the same 
•* western coast. It is highly probable, that all 
" these mutually understand each other in con- 
•• versation. Between the Congo language and 
" that of the tribes on the eastern side, the affinity, 
" although radical, is much less striking, and the 
" people themselves must consider them as quite 
" distinct; but the following instances of resem- 
'' blance, in words expressing the simplest ideas, 
^' may be thought sufficient I0 warrant the beliel'. 



'^M 



mmnAta dSisSHvAf lois^^. 



•' that the liations by whom they are employed^ 
•- must, at a remote period, have been more inti- 
" mately connected." 





d >i 


o — 


d o 


6 


li 


. c 


^ 


1^ 


1 ,^ 


o 


2.^ 

IS 


■ -1 


^1 

as S 
m 
"A-tatu 


"three 


Tatoo 


Tattu 


Si-tattu 


Ba-tatu 





Four 


M'na 


Ya 


Sija 


Me-sana 


Moon aw 


Sanu 


Five 


Tanoo 


Tanu 


Sit-tan 





Thanou 





Ten 


Coomy 


Icumi 


Si-kumi 


Kumi 


Koumaw 


Sumi 


Eye 


I\Iieso 








Meso 


Teesho 





Tooth 


Meno 


— 





Meno 


Menho 


— 


Dead 


Foi 





Affua 


Ku-foa 


— 


Ufile 


Water 


Maza 


Mase 


Masa 


Madji 


Matee 


Maesi 


Hog 


Gorolooboo 


— 


Engulo 


Guruay 


Gulloway 


. — 


Sun 


Tangua 


N'Tazi 


Tangu 


— 


— 


Langga 


1 Moon 


Mooezy 


— 


— 


Moysfe 


Moomo 


— 


jSalt 


Moon-qua 


— 


— 


— 


Mun-you 


— 



There does not seem to be the least truth in the 
comphcated mechanism of the Congo language, 
which some fanciful author thought he had disco- 
vered, and which has been repeated by succeeding 
writers ; none of " those idioms of which the syn- 
tax and grammatical forms, ingeniously combined 
with art, indicate, in the opinion of Malte-Brun. 
" a meditative genius, foreign to the habitual con- 
dition of these people." 

These few observations contain a summary of 
the knowledge of the moral circumstances and 
condition of the people, and their means of sub- 
sistence, as obtained by the expedition to the 
point of the river where its researches terminated 



APPENDIX, 

CONTAINING 

A VOCABULARY 

OF THE 

MALEMBA AND EMBOMMA LANGUAGES, 



ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA. 


Above, 


Tanda 


Teleema 


Absent, 


leli 


leli-kouka 


Accuse, 


N'Doke 




Admire, 


Equaila 




Advice, 


Wenapee 




Adultery, 


Wavuca, Ng-Caz- 
ganie 


Sougam casang 


Afraid, 


Wonga 


Bocma 


Affront, V. 


N'Sone 


nganzey 


After, 


Quonema 




Afternoon, 


Masseca.- 


maseaka 


Again, 


Quandee 




Agree, 


loca Chivueede 




Air, 


E'Zoola 


zeelo 


Alike, 


Deddy Deddy 




Alive, 


T^'Chema 


monio 


All, 


ionsou. M'Venu- 
ionsou, I give 
all 


Yo 


Alone, 


Caca ; Meno caca, 
I am alone 




Always, 


Loumbau E'onspu, 
all times 


Tangibana 


Amuse, 


Queembela 




Anchor, 


Boam-poutou 


boam-poutou 


And, 


Isha 




Angry, 


N'Zalla, Lengula, 
sulky 




Another, 


Lequa, Lequa 
chanca, another, 
thinj^ 





396 


APPENDIX. 


- 


ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA. 


Answer, d. 


Tamboudede 


boulem-beembo 


Any, 


lequa, chouso-le- 
qua, any thing 




Approach, v. 


Queamena or We- 
sadea 


Isa 


Arm, 


Coco 




Army, 




Cacomunta 


Arrive, 


N'Chemosouca 




Ashamed, 


N'Sone 


sony-zakaleka 


Ashore, 


Vanasse, vanasse 


vananze 


Ask, 


Couvaula 


uvroola 


Asleep, 


Leca 


lele 


Assist, 


Cousadesa 




At, 


M'pou 




Aunt, 


Cacandee 


Menkaze 


Avoid, 


Souama 




Awake, 


Catoumauca 


cotouka 


Axe, 


M'Peebe 


tawly 


Back, 


Nema 


booza 


Back again, 


Vantauca 




Bad, 


Mabee, Moontao, 
N'zambico, bad 
man 


mambee 


Bag, 


Ecouba 


Kouba 


Bake, 


Zampaimbe, Bolo 
Zampaimbe, 
bake bread 




Bald, 


Vandou 


vandou 


Bargain, 


Saomba 


soomba 


Bark (rind) 


Taunda 


babosy 


Barren, 


Seeta 




Barter, v. 


Taubeengana- 
quetau 


Vinja 


Basket, 


M'Bangou 




Bathe, 


N'Younga 


Sookoola 


Battle, 


Nouana 


N'ousna 


Bawl, V, 


Beconoa 




Bay, 


Londo 


N'zeela 


Beads, 


M'Sanga, or 
Sanga 


p'sanga 


Beard, 


N'Deva 


Devoe 


Beat, -c. 


Yaita, beco-yaita, 
don't strike 


Bolo 


Bed, 


M'Foulou 


Cheea 





APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


* EM BO MM A 


Before, 


Ovetide quande 




Beg, 


M'panou 


M'cootoo 


Begin, 


Davove 


Tona 


Behind, 


Oquinema 


quanima 


Believe, 


Eande 




Belly, 


Voumou 


Voomoo 


Below, 


Quonsee 


quoonsee 


Bend, 


Voumbama 


beenza 


Betray, 


Moueve 




Between, 


Fouloumose 




Beyond, 


Valla 




Big, 


Ounene 


tolo 


Bind, 


Cangama 




Bird, 


Noone 


Noonee 


Bite, V. 


Lavata 


tibila 


Bitter, 


Cazau 


nooly 


Black, 


M^fiote 


M^tiote 


Blind, 


Mesoumafoa 


mafoi 


Blood, 


Menga 


Menga 


Blue, 


Ckindombe 


Chinomba 


Boat, 


N'Zaza 


N'zaza 


Body, 


Solango 


Avia 


B6il, V. 


Lamba (meno 1am- 
ba, 1 boil) 


laamb 


Bold, 


Ouraolo, or qu- 
angolo 




Bone, 


Vissee, or Vese 


vezze 


Bottom, 


Coonansee 


Coonansee 


Box, n. 


Lookata ^ 




Boy, 


N' J aoude 


leeze, toadi 


Brave, 


Quan^lo or Ou- 
molo 


pande 


Bread, 


Bolo 


Bolo 


Break, v. 


Baudede 


bourica 


Breasts, 


N'Toulou 


Maemi maboi 


Bridge, 


Saaoka ^ 


Subooka 


Bring, 


Twala 




Broad, 


Tamamase 




Brother, 


Pangame 




Build, 


Taunganza 




Burn, V. 


E. Veede 


Monovia 


Busy, 


Salansalanga , 




Buy, 


Soumbaquacou 


Soomba 



397 



Cable. 



»eenga 



40 



Seensca 



398 


APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. * 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA, 


Gall, V. 


Bokela 


Lundoo 


Calm, 


Bacanam pemba- 
quam, no wind. 


bauano pema 


Careful, 


Kbea 


bongo leeko 


Carry, 


Nata 


Nata 


Cat, 


Boude 


boode 


Catch, V. 


Bacca 


Seemba 


Change, 


Veenga. veenqua 
lequa (change 
something) 


aviengeza 


Cheeks, 


Matamma 


Matamma 


Chew, 


Dade 


Casu 


Chief, n. s. 


Menta 




Child, 


Mauana 


moana 


Chin, 


Bevau 


bevo 


Choose, 


Zona 




Circle, 


Zounga (Zoonga) 


zegoom^neena 


City, 


Banza 


M'banza 


Clean, 


Soucoula (means 
also wash) % 


Neaveze 


Cloth, 


chindele 


•blele 


Cloud, 


E'Sanche 


tooty 


Coarse, 


Catyauwataco 


voonga 


Cold, 


Chazee 


cheosey 


Comb, V. 


Sanoo 


Sanoo 


Come, 


Weesa 


ouise 


Conquer, 


cheena waate 


boogazy 


Cook, I?. 


Lambe 


lamba 


Copper, 


Sango 


Songo 


Corner, 


Fouma 




Country, 


Seame * 


N'zee 


Cow, 


Gombe 


pacheza 


Cry, V. 


Dela 


leela 


Cure, V, 


Sambouca 


belola 


Curse, V, 


Lakelaca 


lokala 


Cut, 


Veengoana 


Yango 


Dance, v. 


Keena 


keena 


Dark, 


Tombe; Night 
time 


M'boi 


Daughter, 


Chincoomba 


Coomba 


Day, 


Laumbau 


Moinee 


Dead, 


Fauede 


foi 


Deaf, 


Matoo, Mafou (ear 
blind) 


(the same) 





APPENDIX. 


3 


ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA. 


Deceive, 


Maueve 


M'poonizea 


Deep, 


M'peenda 


Vinda 


Depart, 


Wenda quakoo 


Yenda quakoo 


Devil, 


Cadde M'Pemba 


Coolam pambo 


Dew, 


Desa or Deza 


Lizee 


Die, V. 


M'foa 


foca foj 


Dig, 


Sema. Sema au-' 
loo, dig grave 


sicum 


Diligent, 


kebba-bene 




Discourse, 


yako. Palaver 


zoco 


Dispute, 


N'ganzy 


ganzy 


Divide, 


chakeky 


chakeky 


Dog, 


M'Boa 


M'boi 


Door, 


Kaveloo, door- 
place, E'Vitoo. 


Vitoo 


Down, ad. 


Coonasse. Wenda 
conasse,godown 




Dream, v. 


N'dazee,dasentou 


Iota 


Drink, v. 


Noa 


noi 


Drop, V. 


Bauede 


soonoqueezy 


Drown, 


Seendede 


fomo 


Drunk, 


Calelau, or Coloa 
Malavou, drunk 


Coloi 




from wine 


• 


Ear, 


Cooto-Matoo 


Matoo 


Earth (soil) 


N'tato 


toto 


Earth (globe) 


sionso 


sionso 


East, 




akoo 


Eat, 


Dea 


lia 


Edge, 


Maino 


tova 


Egg, 


Makee 


makee masoosoo 


Eight, 


E'Nana 


N'ana 


Eighty, 


Nana longcamma 


lonvois 


, Empty, 


champabala 


bacana leevco 


End, n. 


Seena 


Seena 


Enemy, 




Giahelady 


Enough, 


Fouaing 


Foiny 


Enter, 




Cota 


Escape, v. 


cheena 


teena 


Excuse, n. 


cabely 


liezo 


Eye, 


Mesau 




Evebrow. 


N'daou 


davu 



399 



400 


APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA. 


Face, 


loosi 


loozie 


Fatt, V. 


Bouede 


booide 


False, 


Voona or Ovoo- 
nene 


boisey 


Family, 




cunda 


Far, 


N'Seke 


tanzy 


Fast, V, 


candedeco, stomach 
empty 




Fat, 


Tola 


tolezy 


Father, 


tata 


taata 


Fear, v. 


Wonga (cheenico 
do not run 
away.) 


eheonico 


Feast, 


dela quoomosee 


mocu beeza 


Feather, 


N'Salla 


caia muza 


Feel, V. 


Seembede 


seembele 


Female, 


Kentoo 


chemta 


Fetch, V. 


Twala 


voola 


Fever, 


Yaila, sick 




Fifteen, 


Ecaume tanoo 


macooma tanoo 


Fifty, 


Mecaumatanoo 


Sambanoo 


Fight, V. 


Nooana 


noana 


Fill, 


Zonga. Zonga Ma- 


Ouazia 


• 


za, fill water 




Find, 


Tomba 


tomba 


Finger, 


M. blembo 


loozala 


Fire, 


Bazao 


bazoo 


Fish, 


Bishe or Bizhy 


M'foo 


Five, 


Tanoo 


toanoo 


Flat, 


Vavawoote 


bassa 


Flesh, 


Gombai 


M'psoonia 


Float, V, 


E'folo. E'folo de 
Maza, float on 
the water 




Flood, 


Mazely. Maza 
mazely, water 
flood. 




Flower, 


Foundee 


foondia 


Fly, V, 


Lavooka 


catooka 


Follow, 


Seeda-quonema, I 
follow you 


londa 


Fond, 


N'Zona. N'Zona 
Kentou, fond of 
woman 


n'zoolozy 





APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA 


Food, 




belia 


Fool, 


Laoo 


booba 


Foot, 


Tambee 


tambee 


Forbid, 


Zdueneco 


seembeedi 


Forget, 


Zeembakeene 


zimbancoonie 


Forgive, 


Mangene 


vanica 


Fork, 


Soma 


soma 


Forty, 


Macoomaya 


macoomana 


Four, 


Yaea Quea or kea 


m'na 


Fourteen, 


Ecoameaeya 


coom m'na 


Fowl, 


Soosoo 


soo soo 


Free, 


Foomoo, free man 


foomongana 


Fresh, 


Enasoodeca (no 

stink) 
Dequame 




Friend, 


Coondiamy 


Fruit, 




Cooia 


Full, 


Ezaily (Glossa 
Ezaily Maza, 
glass full of 
water) 


zala 


Fur, 


Meca 


meeka 


Girl, 




caintoo 


Give, 


vana 


vama 


Glad, 


Tondele 


tondiza 


Go, V. 


Wenda 


ouenda 


Goat, 




combo 


God, 


Zambe M' Poun- 
goo 


yambee 


Gold, 


Ola 


voola 


Good, 


Maboote 


tibooty mavool 


Great, 


Foonioo-a-Moote 


keenani 


Green, 


Chambeo 


kankoososo 


Grow, 


E'Menene 


coola 


Guard, v. 




lunglula 


Hair, 


N'Sooke 


M'sootchy 


Half, 


Cachanseea 


teeny 


Hand, 


Candase 


coco 


Handsome, 


Mamoote 


quenevezey 


Hang, 


Keteca 


zungalaquoi 


Happy, 




oobooeli 


Hard, 


Golozeenge 


bala 


Head, 


N'Too 


M'too 



401 



402 


APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA. 


Hear, 


Weloo (Oweloowe 
do you hear 
that) 


oneloo . 


Heart, 


N'Cheema 


monio 


Heaven, 


Ezooloo 


coozolo 


Heavy 


Zeeta 


zeeta 


Hen, 


Soosoo N'kentoo. 
woman fowl 




Herb, 


Foundee 


teel, 


Here, 


Wesa-ba (come 
here) 




Hide, V. 


Soo-aimy 


souka 


High, 


M'Saiky 


nankoo 


Hill, 


M'Zanza 


vemongo 


Hire, v. 


Salla Ecofeeta, 
work and I'll 
pay you, Ooeza 






poota, come and 


« 




I'll pay you 




Hit, V. 


Oungetelle 




Hog, 


N'Gooloo 


gooloobo 


Hold, V, 


Seemba 


seemba 


Hole, 


Nooa 


cooloo 


Hollow, n. a. 


Lequachampabala, 
empty 


voovooloo 


Home, 


Coompootoo 




Honest, 


Moontoo N'Zam- 
be 


moonta 


Horn, 


M'Poca and 
M'Poonge 


m'poka 


Horse, 


Cavalo 


cavallo (Portug.) 


Hot, 


Mooene 


bazoo 


House, 


M'Zo 


m'zo 


Hundred, 


changcamma 


m'cama 


Hungry, 


N'Zalla 


zala 


Hurt, V. 


N'Gansey 


coontanty 


Husband, 


Etoco 


nooniani 


I, 


Meno 


meenoo 


Idle, 


Casasalaco 




Jealous, 


Fontavouke cas- 
same 


chimpala 


If, 


Onso-Onso Zo- 
nene, if you like 


vo 


Industrious, 


Salla woete 







APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMJIA. 


Innocent, 




mandico 


Interpret, • 


N'Camba 


sencamba 


Join, 


Ecca or Yeca 




Journey, 


Diata 


tanzey 


Iron, 


Loocaneba 


saangua 


Island, 


Zoonga 


zoonga 


Jump, V. 


Zotooka 




Justice, 




coticounda 


Keep, 


Loonda 


saonou 


Kick, V. 


Waita 


tockensy 


Kill, 


M'foa or M'foua 


bonda 


King, 


Nemboma or 
fooma, cheeno 


m'cheeno 


Knife, 


M'Baily 


belee 


Knot, 


Acolo or E'colo 


colo 


Know, 


Ounzoi 


N'zabizy 


Lake, 


Eanga 


Cooly 


Lame, 


Tolooca 


toloca 


Land, 


Zela 


n'se 


Last, 


Q,u enema 


lequampe deesy 


Laugh, V. 


Saiba 


seva 


Law, 


Yoco, and Palaver 


m'cusa 


Lead, n. 


choomboo 


choomboo 


Learn, v. 


Longua or Cou- 
camba 


longua 


Leg, 


Veende 


maloo 


Lie (down) v. 


Daile 


bleka 


Lie (falsity) 


Vouna 


m'voonoo 


Lift, 


Nata 


naogoova 


Light (not heavy) 


Bacana Zitaco 


zelaco 


Light (not dark) 


Mouene 


mooini 


Lightning, 


N'Zaza 


lusiemo 


Lips, 


Bevau 


bleelee 


Little, 


Chakai 


chepehow 


Live, V. 


Ena-Wa-wautee, I 
live 




Long, 


Chella 


chicolczv 


Look, V, 


Talla 




Love, V. 


Laou 


zolozy 


Low, 


Vousee 


toola 


Mad, 


E'Laou or Ai- 
leooa 


laooka 



403 



4U4 


AFPENDIX, 




ENGLISH . 


' MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA. 


Make, v. 


Saneca 


vanga 


Male, 


Moontou, 


boocaia 


Man (homo) 


Moontau 


Many, 


Enjecaca 


benga 


Market, 


E'Zandou, 


zando 


Mat, 


Teba 


teva 


Meet, V. 


Baulasenna 


boolanjana 


Melt, V, 


Manze 


quabooka 


Mend, 


Londa 


londo 


Middle, 


Counzee 


cawty 


Milk, 


Chimvooma 


chialy 


Mine, pr. 


Wamee or 
E'Chame 


chamy 


Money^ 


Bango 


bongo 


Month, 
Moon, 


N'Gondai 
N'Gondai 


> gonde 


More, 


Lequa 


boola 


Morning, 


Kensouca 


menamena 


Mother, 


Mamma 


mama 


Mountain, 


M'Zanza 


m'zanza 


Mouth, 


Noua 


m'no i 


Much, 


Panega 


yenzy 
mfeachy 


Mud, 


Folo 


Music, 


Sambe 


yeoola 


Nails, (ongles) 


Sonso 


n'yula 


Name, 


Zena 


zena 


Narrow, 


Voucoufe 


cheechow 


Near, nigh, 


Calavou 


chevolagaya 


Neck, 


E'Laca 


m'singoo 


Neighbour, 


Voumosetweena 


boleamba 


Nest, 


Mounguanza 


jula 


Net, 


N'Zalo 


condy 


Never, 


Bacana Vanaco 


ooenoquako 


New, 


Chacheva 


chamona 


Night, 


Masseca 


fookoo 


Nine, 


E'Vaua 


nana 


Ninety, 


Louvoua Long- 
camma 


lunana 


No, 


Nana 


bucanaco 


Noise, 


Bouba 


yoco-beke yoko, 
don't make 
noise 


None, 


Gonguame 


chunuvalaututo 





APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA 


North, 




velo 


Nose, 


Mazaumau 


yoono 


Now, 


Waau 


booboo 


Oil, 


Manze 


mazey 


Old, 




seemba 


One, 


Base 


mosey 


Only, 


(Lequa chemasi, 
no more than 
one) 




Open, V. 


Zibaula 


zaboquely 


Out, 


Lava 


bussykissey 


Owe, V. 




boncooa 


Pain, 


Malau tanta 


yela 


Paint, V. 


Cousandeemba 


vela 


Paper, 


Papalla 


papela (Port.) 


Pay, V. 


Feta 


fitezy 


Peace, 


Ele-Nauana 


noinidecau 


People, 


Peendouame 


bantoo 


Pierce, 


(Zeka Aulou make 
Hole) 




Pinch, 


Acoutanta 


jongana 


Plain, n. s. 


Voulelamene or 
Vouyanzala 




Play, V. 


Choboubo 


sacoona 


Pleasure, 


Tondela 


tooendacoit 


Plenty, 


Ingee 


yengabeeni 


Poison, 


Daukee 


goolioongo 


Poor, 


Machanzambe 


beezycunda 


Possess, 


Doundedeca 




Pot, 


Sea 


cheenzo 


Pregnant, 


Acuemeta 


mavoomocavo 


Present, (gift) 


Ta 


vana 


Pretend, 


N'Sallaco 




prevent. 


Ounseembede 




Price, 


E'faunda 


bongoqua 


Priest, 


Wecheche 


gonga 


Private, 


Sauam:i 




Profit, 


Keta 




Promise, v. 


Sompeea 


getu coovana 


Proud, 


Venda wawoote 
U 





4ori 



406 



APPENDIX. 



ENGLISH, 



Pull, 



Quarrel, 

Quarter part. 

Queen, 

Question, 

Quick, 

Quiet, 

Rain, 

Rat, 

Raw, 

Read, 

Ready, 

Rebel, n. 

Receive, 

Red, 

Rejoice, 

Return, v. n. 

Reward, n. 

Rich, 

Ride, 

Ring, n. 

Ripe, 

Rise, V. 

River, 

Road, 

Roast, 

Rob, 

Rope, 

Rotten, 

Rough, 

Round, 

Row, V. 

Run, 

Safe, 

Sail, n. 

Salt, 

Sand, 

Savage, 

Say, 



MALEMBA. 

(anoar) Vouela. 
vouela bene, 
pull well, voulla 
Eoumose, pull 
together 

N'Dokee 

N'Dambouka 

Camma-Foumou 

Balounge dede 

Sampouea 

Molo Molo 

Voula 

N'Coumbe 

Yangtoungzau 

Soneca 

Fanga 

N'Couta 

Tamboude 

Tampaimbe 

Veca Monacoo 

Avotoquede 

Ounzetou 

Sena 

Sambela 

Loangala 

Katomaca 

Moela 

Mozeila 

Coka or Coca 

Mowee 

Seenga 

Chawola 

Meca 

Chenzaongolo 

Zongoloca 

Zoucooloca 

Chinavona 

Voola 

Mongua 

Yengasee 

Ganze 

Vova 



EMBOMMA 



zouza 



foo moonchainto 



yong nane 



vola 
pooloo 
yancoonzo 
chimboiky 



voo taloo 

vovama 

cundama 

longa 

soowondoo 

talama 

moela 

enzala 

roka 

lovenda yeba 

singa 

kabowle 

soolama 

vooila 

zuola 



voola 

moongua 

neengy 



ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA 


Sea, 


Embou or M'Bou 


boo 


Seat, 


Voanda 


chansoo 


Secure, 


Yeco-baca 




See, 


Tala 


mona 


Seek, 


Tomba 


tomba 


Sell, 


Zeca 


loombeeca 


Send, 


Toma 


tooma 


Servant, 


Toudeamme 


moonaleze 


Seven, 


Sambouady 


Sambody 


Seventy, 


Lousambouady 


loosambody 


Shade, 


Pozee 




Shake, 


Necona 


nicocka 


Shame, 


Somee 


sonee 


Share, n. 


Auncoeya 


cayana 


Sharp, 


Looca 


etooide 


Shell, 


Chimpenga 


encaissoi 


Short, 


Cofee 


cooflfey 


Shut, 


Zeca 


zeca 


Sick, 


Yela ; yela yela, 
very sick 




Side, 


Louvate 


mona 


Silent, 


Beca yoca, be si- 
lent 


canganikoota 


Silver, 


Plata 


parati (Port.) 


Sing, 


Wimbela 


quimbela 


Sink, 


Cheseendede 


seendissa 


Sister. 


Panga M'Kentau 


pangankainto 


Sit, 


Voenda 


ovanda 


Six, 


Sambanou 


sanbanoo 


Sixty, 


Macouma Samba- 
nou 




Sky, 


E'Zooloo 


zooloo 


Sleep, V. 


Laica or Laica 


leeka 


Slow, 


Conka 


nek^ 


Smell, n. 


Noucouna 


soody 


Smoke, 


Moiscee 


moisy 


Smooth, 


Lelamma 


vendoomona 


Soft, 


Labella 


bootaboota 


Son, 


Moene 


moonayakala 


Soon, 


Kainga 


00 


Sore, 


Tanta 


bezy 


Sorry, 


Cardee 


keady 


Sour, 


Gangomona 


gongoomona 


Sow,(grain) 


Coona 


zeka moonge 


Speak, 


Ovova (short) 


vova 


Spit. -y. n. 


Chaca 


taoulamete 



407 



408 


APPENDIX. 


"^ 


ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBOMMA . 


Split, 


Tongona 


babo 


Square, 


Shanana 


conzoia 


Stab, 


Chonda 


coonzoka 


Stand, V. 


Talama 


telema 


Star, 


Bota 


botele 


Steal, 


Q,ueya 


moocey 


Stink, V. n. 


Soode 


soody 


Stone, 


Tadee 


etudy 


Storm, 


Voolazambe 


teemboi 


Stranger, 


Zenzee 


zainza 


Strike, 


Boola 


yundi weeta 


Strong, 


Golo 


golo 


Sun, 


Mouene 


tangua 


Swear, 


Gozee 


deffy 


Sweet, 


Chinzsilla 




Swim, 


Yonga 


coivela 


Sword, 


Tanzee 


soma 


Tail, 


M'Kela 


keela 


Take, 


Bonga 




Tear, v. 


Masanga 


baka 


Tell, 


Camba 




Ten, 


Ecau-me 


coomy 


There, 


Chinna 


ouvana 


They, 


Ana 


doo 


Thief, 


Moevee 


moivy 


Thigh, 


Ebooboo 


boodou d'acoulou 


Thin, 


Enka 


lovilo 


Thirsty, 


Pouilla 


pooina 


Thirteen, 


Coomee e tatou 


macoomatatoo 


Thirty, 


Macoum a tatou 


macoomasambe- 
noo 


This, 




eki 


Throat, 


Gongolo 


elaka 


Throw, 


Looza 


las a 


Thunder, 


Mandazee 


moindozy 


Three, 


Tatau 


tatoo 


Tie, 


Kanga 


cavaga 


To, 


Oula 




To-morrow, 


Baze mene 


Bazimeney 


Tongue, 


Loodeemee 


loodimee 


Tooth, 


Manoo 


menoo 


Touch, V. 


Vepatacanna 


touta 


Town, 


Banza 


Banza 


Tree, 


N'Chee 


chee 





APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. 


MALEMBA. 


EMBONMA. 


True, 


Chillica 


kelica 


Turn, 


Votola 


viloka 


Twelve, 


Ecoume Eole 


coomy emioly 


Twenty, 
Two, 


Macoumolee 


macoomoly 


Cole 


meoly 


Village, 


Deemba 


voota 


Virgin, 


Toubola 




Under, 


Cam a 


cooianda 


Understand, 


Ocuvanga 


outooway 


Unhappy, 


Eango 


Mimamby oboe 
edico 


Unjust, 


Zemba Canee 




Voice, 


Deenga 




Up, 


Twoinda 




Upon. 


Tandoo 




Wake, V. 


Catomoko 


Catoomoka 


Walk, 


Diata 


Deuta 


War, 


Veta 


zingoo 


Warm, 


Quamona 


cafoota 


Wash, V. 


Soucoula 


Yonga 


Watch, z: 


Wingala 


lanjedilla 


Water, 


Maza 


maza 


Weak, 


Goloco 




Weary, 


Deembalou 


nectoo coongely 


Weep, 


Yenza 


beela 


Well, n. a. 


Sambocadee 


quamy 


When, 


Chalombo 


oongatoo 


White, 


Pamba 


pembei 


Who, 


Nanee 


ounanie 


Wicked, 


Mabe (bad) 


untoonga 


Wife, 


Cazamme 


casamy 


Wild, 


Sittau 


booloo 


Wind, n. 


M'Paibe or 
M'Paima 


pemo 


Wing, 


Evee 


eveve 


Wise, 


Lookee 


quandooka 


Woman, 


Kentou 


quinto 


Wood, (lignum) 


Bala 


coony 


Wood, (sylva) 


Lebala 


chencootoo 


Wool. 


Meza 


maka 



409 



410 


APPENDIX. 




ENGLISH. 

Word, 
Work, V. 
Wrong, 


MALEMBA. 

Dinga 

Salla 

Zimbacainna 


EMBOMKA. 

diambo 

salo 

diambo deady 


Year, 
Yes, 

Yesterday, 
You, 


Enga 
E. Zono 
Gaia (plural, 
Yeno) 


m'oo 

eenga 

zono biokelly 

gaiyay 



This Vocabulary I do not consider to be free from mistakes, 
which I cannot now find time to discover : all the objects of 
the senses are, however, correct. — J. TUCKEY.*' 



FINIS. 



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